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hafilax
Nov 24, 2009, 10:31 PM
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camhead wrote: jakedatc wrote: also ball and twist lock locker's are stupid and i will never use them I hate to read the words "ball" and "twist" in the same sentence. 
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sungam
Nov 24, 2009, 10:35 PM
Post #152 of 181
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petsfed wrote: adatesman wrote: coolcat83 wrote: currupt4130 wrote: I take back my tri cam hating statements after using more of them than nuts on a route this weekend. Taped up the slings on them to make them stiffer and bam, placements were a breeze. I still hate hexes. that's it...come over to the dark side...and those hexes wait till you get a crack that needs several large placements...those hex's will come out (if you like to save money or weight)...then you will be a convert. Until you shelve the hexes in favor of the #5, #6 and #7 Tricam, at which point you will have truly seen the light....  But then you'll watch those sizes get walked out of placements that you could sling a cam half as long and still be stable with, and return to cams in those sizes. Seriously, the #7 tricam is fucking useless if you ever plan to climb above it. EVER. I know, set it with a tug. Then hope to hell that you don't have to put your foot in the offwidth crack you just placed it in, so you don't risk kicking it. FUCKING BRILLIANT!
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caughtinside
Nov 24, 2009, 10:40 PM
Post #153 of 181
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jakedatc wrote: The set of Tech friends i got before leading enough to know what i preferred.. Anyone want 1.25,1.75,2, 2.5,3 tech friends for your creek rack? PM me :) also ball and twist lock locker's are stupid and i will never use them
Those ball and twist lockers are pretty useful for certain applications, but not necessarily for ordinary trad climbing.
tech friends are ok, but they arent' as nice as camalots IMO.
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petsfed
Nov 24, 2009, 11:05 PM
Post #154 of 181
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adatesman wrote: petsfed wrote: adatesman wrote: coolcat83 wrote: currupt4130 wrote: I take back my tri cam hating statements after using more of them than nuts on a route this weekend. Taped up the slings on them to make them stiffer and bam, placements were a breeze. I still hate hexes. that's it...come over to the dark side...and those hexes wait till you get a crack that needs several large placements...those hex's will come out (if you like to save money or weight)...then you will be a convert. Until you shelve the hexes in favor of the #5, #6 and #7 Tricam, at which point you will have truly seen the light.... But then you'll watch those sizes get walked out of placements that you could sling a cam half as long and still be stable with, and return to cams in those sizes. Seriously, the #7 tricam is fucking useless if you ever plan to climb above it. EVER. I know, set it with a tug. Then hope to hell that you don't have to put your foot in the offwidth crack you just placed it in, so you don't risk kicking it. FUCKING BRILLIANT! I don't have any problems with them walking or needing to be slung extra long, but maybe it's just because I use them properly. YMMV.
The #7 is about a #4 camalot (old style). That I had to lightly tap it with my foot, after doing the tug-and-sling-long routine when I set it, and it still popped right out told me that it was basically useless. Wouldn't be a problem on, say, a #3 or #4 tricam sized crack where I can just take my foot out of the crack. On that size, its not an option. What was I supposed to do? Find a better spot for the stinger? That single point makes the unit unstable. Especially for the bigger pieces, where a wide head is absolutely vital.
Ah, fuck it. You clearly ain't climbing cracks that stay that size for a while Aric.
And magnus, I was on an offwidth at Vedauwoo.
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sungam
Nov 24, 2009, 11:05 PM
Post #155 of 181
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caughtinside wrote: jakedatc wrote: The set of Tech friends i got before leading enough to know what i preferred.. Anyone want 1.25,1.75,2, 2.5,3 tech friends for your creek rack? PM me :) also ball and twist lock locker's are stupid and i will never use them Those ball and twist lockers are pretty useful for certain applications, but not necessarily for ordinary trad climbing. tech friends are ok, but they arent' as nice as camalots IMO.
"the cam company" my ass.
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Bats
Nov 24, 2009, 11:21 PM
Post #156 of 181
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I would love to have a pair of slippers that were tight in the width as my lace-ups. I would love approach shoes to come in narrow widths.
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kylekienitz
Nov 24, 2009, 11:58 PM
Post #157 of 181
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sungam wrote: I think pieces of trash are worse then HB quadcams. "the cam company" my ass.
Did you mean to make a superfluous exaggeration?
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ryanb
Nov 25, 2009, 12:00 AM
Post #158 of 181
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petsfed wrote: adatesman wrote: petsfed wrote: adatesman wrote: coolcat83 wrote: currupt4130 wrote: I take back my tri cam hating statements after using more of them than nuts on a route this weekend. Taped up the slings on them to make them stiffer and bam, placements were a breeze. I still hate hexes. that's it...come over to the dark side...and those hexes wait till you get a crack that needs several large placements...those hex's will come out (if you like to save money or weight)...then you will be a convert. Until you shelve the hexes in favor of the #5, #6 and #7 Tricam, at which point you will have truly seen the light.... But then you'll watch those sizes get walked out of placements that you could sling a cam half as long and still be stable with, and return to cams in those sizes. Seriously, the #7 tricam is fucking useless if you ever plan to climb above it. EVER. I know, set it with a tug. Then hope to hell that you don't have to put your foot in the offwidth crack you just placed it in, so you don't risk kicking it. FUCKING BRILLIANT! I don't have any problems with them walking or needing to be slung extra long, but maybe it's just because I use them properly. YMMV. The #7 is about a #4 camalot (old style). That I had to lightly tap it with my foot, after doing the tug-and-sling-long routine when I set it, and it still popped right out told me that it was basically useless. Wouldn't be a problem on, say, a #3 or #4 tricam sized crack where I can just take my foot out of the crack. On that size, its not an option. What was I supposed to do? Find a better spot for the stinger? That single point makes the unit unstable. Especially for the bigger pieces, where a wide head is absolutely vital. Ah, fuck it. You clearly ain't climbing cracks that stay that size for a while Aric. And magnus, I was on an offwidth at Vedauwoo.
Tri cams probably are the lightest and cheapest option for covering that range if not climbing cracks that size is the goal.
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caughtinside
Nov 25, 2009, 12:10 AM
Post #159 of 181
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sungam wrote: caughtinside wrote: jakedatc wrote: The set of Tech friends i got before leading enough to know what i preferred.. Anyone want 1.25,1.75,2, 2.5,3 tech friends for your creek rack? PM me :) also ball and twist lock locker's are stupid and i will never use them Those ball and twist lockers are pretty useful for certain applications, but not necessarily for ordinary trad climbing. tech friends are ok, but they arent' as nice as camalots IMO. I think pieces of trash are worse then HB quadcams. "the cam company" my ass.
really? I don't regularly climb with tech or forged friends, but I use them a lot at indian creek as my extra sets, and they really shine out there. Fill in gaps in camalots really well in certain sizes.
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petsfed
Nov 25, 2009, 12:15 AM
Post #160 of 181
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ryanb wrote: Tri cams probably are the lightest and cheapest option for covering that range if not climbing cracks that size is the goal.
Makes sense. I typically don't attempt climbs that I can't protect.
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adatesman
Nov 25, 2009, 12:39 AM
Post #161 of 181
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robdotcalm
Nov 25, 2009, 6:06 AM
Post #162 of 181
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adatesman wrote: petsfed wrote: Ah, fuck it. You clearly ain't climbing cracks that stay that size for a while Aric. Very true, as that kind of thing is in short supply around here. I'm usually at Delaware Water Gap in PA, where the rock is very similar to the Gunks and the cracks are usually quite rough. Because of this there's usually a divot or crystal to put the stinger in/behind, making for a bomber placement. And in this case the narrowness is a good thing, as often the placement will be too narrow for a similarly sized cam. What it boils down to is the right tool for the job... Good for some places and not others.
I'm with Petsfed on this. I sold my Tricams > #4 soon after I bought them. The large ones are unstable because of the large lever arm. A light foot touch, some rope drag, and even wind can dislodge supposedly well-set ones. At Lumpy Ridge, Vedauwoo, or the desert, they are too unstable to trust. The small ones are useful, especially at belays. I usually carry the #.5 and #1.
Cheers,
Rob.calm
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sungam
Nov 25, 2009, 9:53 AM
Post #163 of 181
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kylekienitz wrote: sungam wrote: I think pieces of trash are worse then HB quadcams. "the cam company" my ass. Did you mean to make a superfluous exaggeration?
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airscape
Nov 25, 2009, 10:14 AM
Post #164 of 181
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Why are tech friends bad?
I always thought that was the Super duper uber number one there is no other! choice in cams.
I do not trad so I just ask since I always see 5 stars next to these things on websites and such.
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zeke_sf
Nov 25, 2009, 10:46 AM
Post #165 of 181
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robdotcalm wrote: adatesman wrote: petsfed wrote: Ah, fuck it. You clearly ain't climbing cracks that stay that size for a while Aric. Very true, as that kind of thing is in short supply around here. I'm usually at Delaware Water Gap in PA, where the rock is very similar to the Gunks and the cracks are usually quite rough. Because of this there's usually a divot or crystal to put the stinger in/behind, making for a bomber placement. And in this case the narrowness is a good thing, as often the placement will be too narrow for a similarly sized cam. What it boils down to is the right tool for the job... Good for some places and not others. I'm with Petsfed on this. I sold my Tricams > #4 soon after I bought them. The large ones are unstable because of the large lever arm. A light foot touch, some rope drag, and even wind can dislodge supposedly well-set ones. At Lumpy Ridge, Vedauwoo, or the desert, they are too unstable to trust. The small ones are useful, especially at belays. I usually carry the #.5 and #1. Cheers, Rob.calm
Fuck that. Tricams are clearly the best piece of gear ever and you are just an unstable climber.
Okay, the big ones are pretty wobbly when you climb past.
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josiahdood
Nov 25, 2009, 10:51 AM
Post #166 of 181
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This thread is awesome. I must say Tech Friends are way up there for least favorite gear. It's not that they're a bad cam, its just that there are much better cams that anyone with a right mind should buy instead.
Tricams are overrated. Dovals are terrible. I hate to admit it, but the Metolius multi loop gear sling is pretty damn annoying to use - too bad I dropped like $40 on it...
Anyone who thinks the grigri is a useless device is a noob - probably one of the more useful and versatile pieces of gear I have.
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angry
Nov 25, 2009, 12:53 PM
Post #167 of 181
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josiahdood wrote: This thread is awesome. I must say Tech Friends are way up there for least favorite gear. It's not that they're a bad cam, its just that there are much better cams that anyone with a right mind should buy instead. Tricams are overrated. Dovals are terrible. I hate to admit it, but the Metolius multi loop gear sling is pretty damn annoying to use - too bad I dropped like $40 on it... Anyone who thinks the grigri is a useless device is a noob - probably one of the more useful and versatile pieces of gear I have.
Anyone who's still using a Grigri instead of a cinch is also a noob.
Gri-Gri = Pretty good for kids birthday parties.
Cinch = Something to take rock climbing.
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zeke_sf
Nov 25, 2009, 1:18 PM
Post #168 of 181
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angry wrote: josiahdood wrote: This thread is awesome. I must say Tech Friends are way up there for least favorite gear. It's not that they're a bad cam, its just that there are much better cams that anyone with a right mind should buy instead. Tricams are overrated. Dovals are terrible. I hate to admit it, but the Metolius multi loop gear sling is pretty damn annoying to use - too bad I dropped like $40 on it... Anyone who thinks the grigri is a useless device is a noob - probably one of the more useful and versatile pieces of gear I have. Anyone who's still using a Grigri instead of a cinch is also a noob. Gri-Gri = Pretty good for kids birthday parties. Cinch = Something to take rock climbing.
I stand in awe of those kids. Packed full of pizza and still pulling hard on that route that has no grade and sports animal shaped holds. An unrated project, that's what I call that. A disinterested gym employee and/or undereducated adult manning the device. That's bold. Running under me while I teeter dangerously on my V1 projdge, well, that's plain guts I gotta admire in the lil' mouthbreathers.
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billcoe_
Nov 25, 2009, 2:52 PM
Post #169 of 181
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LOL Zeke!
Yeah, tricams are as worthless ass tits on a Boar in this area. If I lived at JT or someplace with shallow flaring cracks and solution pockets I'd use them.
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josiahdood
Nov 25, 2009, 3:18 PM
Post #170 of 181
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"Anyone who's still using a Grigri instead of a cinch is also a noob.
Gri-Gri = Pretty good for kids birthday parties.
Cinch = Something to take rock climbing."
These pictures from a blog "What your belay device says about you" nail it pretty accurately I think:
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suprasoup
Nov 26, 2009, 8:30 PM
Post #171 of 181
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Skidemon27 wrote: suprasoup wrote: possum2082 wrote: suprasoup wrote: Brain buckets may be fine for climbers and cyclist, but they be next to useless for the track. disagree 100%. motorcycle helmets are not just for determining closed or open casket funerals. doesn't matter if it's track or not. show me stats to prove otherwise. your staged far away visionary look pic is cracking me up. unbelievable. good bike, though. i used to have a 97 yzf100r. precursor to the 98 r1. one of the best handling bikes i've ever ridden. I'm always good for a few laughs . But seriously, you misinterpreted what I said. I didn't spend over 8 benjamins on a helmet if I thought they were useless. 1/2 helmets and 3/4's are what I'm disparaging. Those in my opinion are useless for the serious rider. There isn't a track in the country that would let you set foot on their course with nothing less than full leathers and a full face helmet. dude decent bike, im a MV agusta F4 and GSXR1000 man myself... but if u seriously bought that decent helmet for 800 bucks then you got ripped off my friend. that helemt only retails for around 450 bucks... i know for a fact i used to sell em, got a few RF1000 shoeis myself diablo graphics for around 340 (dealer cost) and 100% agree with the full helmet idea..... and ur picture..... cmon on man dont try to hard to be a bad ass
True that's how much they cost now since the x-12 is out, but they retailed for upward of a grand when they came out. Doesn't matter, the helmet rocks and the previous x-11 saved my bacon when I high sided on the track. What year is your gixxer? I've got an '04 Mladin Limited as well.
(This post was edited by suprasoup on Nov 26, 2009, 8:34 PM)
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jh_angel
Nov 26, 2009, 11:12 PM
Post #172 of 181
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Any shoe from 5.10. Yeah, I went there. It has nothing to do with their quality, but everything to do with design. Mainly that not a single pair of shoes they make fit my feet correctly. I can fit them so tight that my toes want to bleed, but I could still stuff my fist into the extra space in the heel. Granted they aren't the only company with this problem, but they are the one that everyone blindly tells me I should buy so the I can "climb better". Seriously, every shoe company should make both wide and skinny models.
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coolcat83
Nov 27, 2009, 12:33 AM
Post #173 of 181
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angry wrote: josiahdood wrote: This thread is awesome. I must say Tech Friends are way up there for least favorite gear. It's not that they're a bad cam, its just that there are much better cams that anyone with a right mind should buy instead. Tricams are overrated. Dovals are terrible. I hate to admit it, but the Metolius multi loop gear sling is pretty damn annoying to use - too bad I dropped like $40 on it... Anyone who thinks the grigri is a useless device is a noob - probably one of the more useful and versatile pieces of gear I have. Anyone who's still using a Grigri instead of a cinch is also a noob. Gri-Gri = Pretty good for kids birthday parties. Cinch = Something to take rock climbing.
+1 for cinch being a great piece of gear
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Alpine07
Nov 27, 2009, 12:45 AM
Post #174 of 181
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coolcat83 wrote: angry wrote: josiahdood wrote: This thread is awesome. I must say Tech Friends are way up there for least favorite gear. It's not that they're a bad cam, its just that there are much better cams that anyone with a right mind should buy instead. Tricams are overrated. Dovals are terrible. I hate to admit it, but the Metolius multi loop gear sling is pretty damn annoying to use - too bad I dropped like $40 on it... Anyone who thinks the grigri is a useless device is a noob - probably one of the more useful and versatile pieces of gear I have. Anyone who's still using a Grigri instead of a cinch is also a noob. Gri-Gri = Pretty good for kids birthday parties. Cinch = Something to take rock climbing. +1 for cinch being a great piece of gear
You guys are getting waaaay off topic.
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coolcat83
Nov 27, 2009, 12:49 AM
Post #175 of 181
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Alpine07 wrote: coolcat83 wrote: angry wrote: josiahdood wrote: This thread is awesome. I must say Tech Friends are way up there for least favorite gear. It's not that they're a bad cam, its just that there are much better cams that anyone with a right mind should buy instead. Tricams are overrated. Dovals are terrible. I hate to admit it, but the Metolius multi loop gear sling is pretty damn annoying to use - too bad I dropped like $40 on it... Anyone who thinks the grigri is a useless device is a noob - probably one of the more useful and versatile pieces of gear I have. Anyone who's still using a Grigri instead of a cinch is also a noob. Gri-Gri = Pretty good for kids birthday parties. Cinch = Something to take rock climbing. +1 for cinch being a great piece of gear You guys are getting waaaay off topic.
sorry.
dovals do suck when you are trying to place and clip fast.
not a fan of twist/ball/triact biners either.
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