This is spun off from the 50-classics thread, which is itself a spin off from something else. Anywho... if we were to create a list of 50 classics east of the Miss., what do you think would be on it?

The Pinnacle, Katahdin

Do you mean The Pinnacle - Huntington or the Armadillo - Baxter? Both worthy routes for this list - especially if historical significance counts?

Repentence (ice)-Cathedral.

Weissner Route- Washbowl Cliff, Dacks

I assume that, even in the east, "Fifty Crowded Classics" should be limited to multipitch, just as in the West, correct?

I assume that, even in the east, "Fifty Crowded Classics" should be limited to multipitch, just as in the West, correct?

Personally, I'd like to see the following on any such list:

Zoo View, Moore's Wall
The Daddy, Linville
Gunsight to South Peak, Seneca
Maginot Line, Shortoff
High E, Gunks
Shockley's Ceiling, Gunks
Whitney-Gillman, Cannon

I can agree with that, even though it leaves out virtually all of my home crag. I understand the historical significance of the original 50-Classics list, but Personally, I think aesthetics, exposure and a proven track record of drawing climbers from the national (or at least regional), rather than just local community are more relevant.

Personally, I'd like to see the following on any such list:

Zoo View, Moore's Wall
The Daddy, Linville
Gunsight to South Peak, Seneca
Maginot Line, Shortoff
High E, Gunks
Shockley's Ceiling, Gunks
Whitney-Gillman, Cannon

I probably have more. These are just off the top of my head. I'd like to note for the record that I removed several routes from this list, among them some pretty fucking phenomenal climbs, because while I consider them "classics," if I'm completely honest about it, they really haven't drawn the volume of climbers (other than locals) required to be a classic.

I excluded the Nose on Looking Glass, because, while I recognize its huge historical significance, I really don't think it's all that great a route. IMO, Peregrine, Hyperbola, Sundial and half the routes on the South End are better.

Bonnie's, CCK, Ant's, Dangler, etc., Gunks - single glory pitches, not iconic

I'd agree with you, except for Bonnie's. Both pitches are truly fantastic in their own way.

GO

How about Acadia? You think anything there is worthy of a 50 classics? Chitlins Corner (10a) is only two (long) pitches, but it's truly superb climbing from beginning to end. That would get my vote.

GO

Peregrine to sundial crack (accidentally) Looking Glass

Here's my list for best TOP 10. Please note that I have not been to every place in the East like Cathedral, cannon cliff, or most of Linville gorge. I agree that the line has to be multi-pitch.

2) West Pole to Gephart finish - Seneca
.

This is spun off from the 50-classics thread, which is itself a spin off from something else. Anywho... if we were to create a list of 50 classics east of the Miss., what do you think would be on it?

The drive to your nearest airport for your flight out west?

*facepalm*

This thread has digressed into a simple "hey, what are the best climbs in the East?"

As was brought up in the other thread, the 50 classics are primarily listed for their HISTORICAL significance, they shaped the direction of climbs to come. In my experience, that trumps aestheticsof movement or "classic" status usually.

But by all means, keep it up with the "hey this is a really rad climb, too!" My vote would be for Woody's Arete sit start at Cooper's Rock, WV (v5). BAM.

Some that are classic in my mind...

RRG
Rock Wars
Autumn
Caver's Route
Arachnid
Nevermore
Africa
Where Lizards Dare
WNC
The Daddy
The Prow
NE Ridge
Cavers to My Route

And, quite a few bushwhackin', trundlin', fire ant infested classics that I've done and never known where we were, only that we were having FUN!

I excluded the Nose on Looking Glass, because, while I recognize its huge historical significance, I really don't think it's all that great a route. IMO, Peregrine, Hyperbola, Sundial and half the routes on the South End are better.

Although Bedtime for Bonzo may not be the greatest climb, it does have a pretty unique character, a priceless view, and a very accessible grade.

Before we go any further, can we nail down a definition of "classic." I believe a lot of things can go into this, but I think a "classic" is a climb that a trip is centered around. As a local, it's easy for us to spout off a hundred climbs at our climbing area that we consider classics. But when you go on a trip, what are those climbs that you circle in the guidebook and say "I don't care what else I do, as long as I do THAT climb."

When I went to Red Rocks, Epinepherine was THAT climb. The rest of the climbing was filled with "whatever". ..good climbs, mind you, but still whatever, compared to my target climb.

I think cragging and single pitch climbing doesn't lend itself to target climbs. Why would I travel across the country to climb a 50 foot climb? So, when we talk about classics, it might be better if we were not allowed to label "classics" at our local areas.

Just a thought.

Josh

What makes a climb a classic? History, the first ascensionist, the route, fun, hard, exposure, or what.

There is another aspect to all this too - typically "classic" implies that the climb is within reach of the average climber. If you are familiar with the European, especially British, list and books (wherre all this started) they typically have lists of "classic" climbs for everyman and "extreme" climbs for the hardmen.

Before we go any further, can we nail down a definition of "classic." I believe a lot of things can go into this, but I think a "classic" is a climb that a trip is centered around. As a local, it's easy for us to spout off a hundred climbs at our climbing area that we consider classics. But when you go on a trip, what are those climbs that you circle in the guidebook and say "I don't care what else I do, as long as I do THAT climb."

When I went to Red Rocks, Epinepherine was THAT climb. The rest of the climbing was filled with "whatever". ..good climbs, mind you, but still whatever, compared to my target climb.

I think cragging and single pitch climbing doesn't lend itself to target climbs. Why would I travel across the country to climb a 50 foot climb? So, when we talk about classics, it might be better if we were not allowed to label "classics" at our local areas.

Just a thought.

Josh

This may be another thread topic (yet again), but does anyone have access to the "Fifty Favorite Climbs" list? I remember it begin pretty cool, and I've done quite a few more of those routes than I have the "Fifty Classic Climbs."

As I remember, Tricks of the Trade in Zion, Rainbow Wall in RR, Grand Wall in Squish, etc. were some of the routes.

How about Acadia? You think anything there is worthy of a 50 classics? Chitlins Corner (10a) is only two (long) pitches, but it's truly superb climbing from beginning to end. That would get my vote.

GO

I don't know. Acadia is one of my favorite places to climb, but it has more to do with the overall feel. The perfect granite, the ocean, the foliage, the great early and late summer weather, the beautiful drive, the cute little town, etc., etc. I don't think it is because of "classic" or destination climbs.

Although, since you brought it up, here are my absolute faves at Acadia.
The Head Arete, 5.10d
Chitlin's Corner, 5.10a
Jaws, 5.11b
A Dare by the Sea, 5.10c
Guillotine, 5.10a
Old Town to Return to Forever (5.7, 5.9)

I agree that the line has to be multi-pitch...

3) Roadside Attraction - RRG

Here are a pair of 1-2 pitch super classics in NC:
- Sour Balls, Sauratown (deemed among the best pitches by Todd Skinner)
- Dinkus Dog, Looking Glass (steep, incut eyebrows to balancy groove)

Justroberto: I was wondering when someone would mention Laurel Knob.

So, does consensus say that the book will be "Fifty East Coast Classic Craggin' Routes"? You should be gettin' close to 50 by now.

Justroberto: I was wondering when someone would mention Laurel Knob.

Guillotine, 5.10a

Am I the only climber on the planet who thinks High E is way overrated and wouldn't even make a top 100 list? Historic, sure, but not even close to the best 50. Actually I'd be hard pressed to put it on the top 50 IN ThE GUNKS! Someone earlier said that it is really only 50' of climbing.......you overestimate by about 15'. Madame G's has High E and Shockley's beat for a super classic 5.6.

Erect Direction 5.10c
Gelsa 5.4
Doubleissima 5.10b
Fat City Direct 5.10d
Bloody Mary on Poke-O 5.9
Fastest Gun on Poke-O 5.9
Recombeast 5.9
VMC Direct Direct 5.10d
Whitney Gilman 5.10d
Pleasant overangs 5.7
Mellifluous 5.11a
The Legacy 5.11b

Am I the only climber on the planet who thinks High E is way overrated and wouldn't even make a top 100 list? Historic, sure, but not even close to the best 50. Actually I'd be hard pressed to put it on the top 50 IN ThE GUNKS! Someone earlier said that it is really only 50' of climbing.......you overestimate by about 15'. Madame G's has High E and Shockley's beat for a super classic 5.6. Here's some others I would put on the list

Erect Direction 5.10c
Gelsa 5.4
Doubleissima 5.10b
Fat City Direct 5.10d
Bloody Mary on Poke-O 5.9
Fastest Gun on Poke-O 5.9
Recombeast 5.9
VMC Direct Direct 5.10d
Whitney Gilman 5.10d
Pleasant overangs 5.7
Mellifluous 5.11a
The Legacy 5.11b

Those are just the starters. I haven't even been to the big stuff on North Carolina yet!