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j_ung
Feb 6, 2010, 9:20 PM
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This is spun off from the 50-classics thread, which is itself a spin off from something else. Anywho... if we were to create a list of 50 classics east of the Miss., what do you think would be on it?
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johnwesely
Feb 6, 2010, 9:33 PM
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j_ung wrote: This is spun off from the 50-classics thread, which is itself a spin off from something else. Anywho... if we were to create a list of 50 classics east of the Miss., what do you think would be on it?
Routes that I have been on:
The Nose of Looking Glass.
Flying Frog at Tallulah.
Shredded Wheat at Rumbling Bald.
The Word at Little River Canyon.
Routes that I think would go on such a list:
Golden Locks at T Wall.
Cornflake Crack at Looking Glass
Dopey Duck at Shortoff
The Great Arch at Stone Mountain
The OR at Whitesides
Maybe one of the hard routes at Whitesides?
I can't think of any others off the top of my head, but it really depends on the parameters.
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Adk
Feb 6, 2010, 9:51 PM
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High Exposure- Gunks
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rock_fencer
Feb 6, 2010, 10:06 PM
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These lines stick out in my mind as some of the best climbing i've done on the east coast
Shredded Wheat - Rumbling Bald, NC
Inhibitor - RRG
Flying Frogs - tallulah gorge, GA
Recompense, Beast Flake Variation - Cathedral Ledges
Tit's and Beers - Looking Glass
Crack attack - T-Wall
In Pursuit of Excellence - Twall
Techno Surfing - Rumney - Sport
Lonesome Dove - Rumney - Sport
The Bolted One - Jackson Falls, So. Ill
Fragile Egos - Jackson Falls
Andromeda Strain - RRG
Bonnie's Roof - Gunks
I guess throw in High E though i thought it was OK!
CCK - gunks last pitch really
Thunder Chicken - RRG
so many more to choose from...
So many to choose from
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naitch
Feb 6, 2010, 10:08 PM
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Seneca - Gunsight to South Peak Direct; Soler; Ecstasy; Alcoa; Orange Aid; Westpole; & Bring on the Nubiles
Moore's Wall - Zooview; Airshow
Acadia - A Dare by the Sea; Old Town; Green Mt. Breakdown
(This post was edited by naitch on Feb 6, 2010, 10:12 PM)
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rhunter
Feb 6, 2010, 10:35 PM
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I'll second the Nose on Looking Glass, Golden locks and add Moby Grape and Whitney Gliman on Cannon
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stagg54
Feb 6, 2010, 11:15 PM
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Some of my all-time favorites
Great Arch - Stone
Mercury's lead - Stone
Gunsight to South Peak Direct - Seneca
Gephardt-Dufty - Seneca
High E - Gunks
Diagonal on Wallface - Daks
Ice routes
Chouinards - Daks
Multiplication Gully - Daks
Roaring Brook Falls - Daks
Trap Dike - Daks
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 7, 2010, 12:33 AM
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Gunks - Fat City Direct (5.10d)
Erect Direction (5.10c)
Bonnie's Roof direct (5.9)
North Conway, NH - Thin Air (5.6)
Children's Crusade (5.11a)
Recom-beast (5.9)
Cannon - Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7)
VMC direct direct (5.10d) ( I actually haven't done this yet, but the anticipation of doing it is killing me!)
I have tons of more favorites, but I figured to be worthy of a 50 classics list, I had to whittle it down.
Josh
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currupt4130
Feb 7, 2010, 12:45 AM
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From the New:
Four Sheets to the Wind 5.9
Legacy 5.11a
Mellifluous 5.11a
Supercrack 5.9
Under the Milky Way 5.11d
Red River Gorge:
Andromeda Strain 5.9+
Stone Mountain:
Great Arch 5.5
(This post was edited by currupt4130 on Feb 7, 2010, 12:45 AM)
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Bag11s
Feb 7, 2010, 12:47 AM
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I was typing as you posted.
The Eastern list has to have the VMC Direct, High Exposure, and the Prow.
I agree that other candidates in the NE are Fat City Direct, Children's Crusade Direct, Recombeast, and Technosurfing.
Some others to consider include China Beach, Last Unicorn, Whitehorse Standard Route, Eyeless in Gaza, and Predator.
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onceahardman
Feb 7, 2010, 1:37 AM
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Repentence (ice)-Cathedral.
Weissner Route- Washbowl Cliff, Dacks
The Pinnacle, Katahdin
The Gendarme, Seneca 
Whitney-Gillman, Cannon
The Fastest Gun, Pok-o-moonshine, Dacks
Arrow, Gunks
High Ex, Gunks
The Joke, Bon Echo
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olderic
Feb 7, 2010, 1:53 AM
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onceahardman wrote: The Pinnacle, Katahdin
Do you mean The Pinnacle - Huntington or the Armadillo - Baxter? Both worthy routes for this list - especially if historical significance counts?
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onceahardman
Feb 7, 2010, 12:55 PM
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olderic wrote: onceahardman wrote: The Pinnacle, Katahdin Do you mean The Pinnacle - Huntington or the Armadillo - Baxter? Both worthy routes for this list - especially if historical significance counts?
Wow, I think I conflated the two...it's been a long time. Thanks.
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stagg54
Feb 7, 2010, 1:37 PM
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onceahardman wrote: Repentence (ice)-Cathedral. Weissner Route- Washbowl Cliff, Dacks
I've done that. i liked it, but more for the historical significance. Hesitation was a much better climb.
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charley
Feb 7, 2010, 2:10 PM
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What makes a climb a classic? History, the first ascensionist, the route, fun, hard, exposure, or what.
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CLIMBNBIKER
Feb 7, 2010, 2:13 PM
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FOR SURE
The Nose
The Original Route
Flying Frog
Dopey Duck
Golden Locks
Maginot Line
Maybe:
The North Ridge
RJ Gold
Tits and Beer
Paralleling
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camhead
Feb 7, 2010, 2:58 PM
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I assume that, even in the east, "Fifty Crowded Classics" should be limited to multipitch, just as in the West, correct?
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olderic
Feb 7, 2010, 3:35 PM
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camhead wrote: I assume that, even in the east, "Fifty Crowded Classics" should be limited to multipitch, just as in the West, correct?
Well its all opinion so there are no rules. But I would think that break through single pitch sport climbs would qualify if the first ascent was note worthy and they are still sought after. At Rumney things would be - Techo Surfing, Predator and China Beach. There are equivalents at the Red and New.
In the trad environment there are routes that although they are multi pitch boil down to one pitch. The famous High-E is all about 50 feet of climbing.
There is another aspect to all this too - typically "classic" implies that the climb is within reach of the average climber. If you are familiar with the European, especially British, list and books (wherre all this started) they typically have lists of "classic" climbs for everyman and "extreme" climbs for the hardmen.
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j_ung
Feb 7, 2010, 3:39 PM
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camhead wrote: I assume that, even in the east, "Fifty Crowded Classics" should be limited to multipitch, just as in the West, correct?
I can agree with that, even though it leaves out virtually all of my home crag. I understand the historical significance of the original 50-Classics list, but Personally, I think aesthetics, exposure and a proven track record of drawing climbers from the national (or at least regional), rather than just local community are more relevant.
Personally, I'd like to see the following on any such list:
Zoo View, Moore's Wall
The Daddy, Linville
Gunsight to South Peak, Seneca
Maginot Line, Shortoff
High E, Gunks
Shockley's Ceiling, Gunks
Whitney-Gillman, Cannon
I probably have more. These are just off the top of my head. I'd like to note for the record that I removed several routes from this list, among them some pretty fucking phenomenal climbs, because while I consider them "classics," if I'm completely honest about it, they really haven't drawn the volume of climbers (other than locals) required to be a classic.
I excluded the Nose on Looking Glass, because, while I recognize its huge historical significance, I really don't think it's all that great a route. IMO, Peregrine, Hyperbola, Sundial and half the routes on the South End are better.
(This post was edited by j_ung on Feb 7, 2010, 3:40 PM)
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saxfiend
Feb 7, 2010, 4:28 PM
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j_ung wrote: Personally, I'd like to see the following on any such list: Zoo View, Moore's Wall The Daddy, Linville Gunsight to South Peak, Seneca Maginot Line, Shortoff High E, Gunks Shockley's Ceiling, Gunks Whitney-Gillman, Cannon
I agree with you that there are better routes at Looking Glass, but I would still include The Nose on the list; it really is a classic, and it's fun climbing. Similar to the Gunks, I think Shockley's is very overrated, but you really couldn't leave it off of a list of eastern classics.
Some others I would add to what's already been suggested:
Mescaline Daydream, Tallulah Gorge
Arrow, the Gunks
Gelsa, the Gunks
Groover, Laurel Knob
Gemini Crack, Looking Glass
Fruit Loops, Rumbling Bald
If the list wasn't limited to multi-pitch, I'd add:
Windwalker, Sunset Park
Comfortably Numb, Sand Rock
JL
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jrathfon
Feb 7, 2010, 5:56 PM
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j_ung wrote: camhead wrote: I assume that, even in the east, "Fifty Crowded Classics" should be limited to multipitch, just as in the West, correct? I can agree with that, even though it leaves out virtually all of my home crag. I understand the historical significance of the original 50-Classics list, but Personally, I think aesthetics, exposure and a proven track record of drawing climbers from the national (or at least regional), rather than just local community are more relevant. Personally, I'd like to see the following on any such list: Zoo View, Moore's Wall The Daddy, Linville Gunsight to South Peak, Seneca Maginot Line, Shortoff High E, Gunks Shockley's Ceiling, Gunks Whitney-Gillman, Cannon I probably have more. These are just off the top of my head. I'd like to note for the record that I removed several routes from this list, among them some pretty fucking phenomenal climbs, because while I consider them "classics," if I'm completely honest about it, they really haven't drawn the volume of climbers (other than locals) required to be a classic. I excluded the Nose on Looking Glass, because, while I recognize its huge historical significance, I really don't think it's all that great a route. IMO, Peregrine, Hyperbola, Sundial and half the routes on the South End are better.
Maybe we should have another breakout thread "Fifty Eastern Single-Pitch Classics". I honestly think you are on target where the "classic" route needs to be one that draws climbers from other regions, that's my whole beef about the over abundance of 5-stars at the RRG, I think a 5 star should fall under that same definition, anyways to each his own. My Fifty Eastern Classics list would go something like this, but I'm only going to include stuff I've been on so that leaves most of the SE out, so far. It also won't include single-pitch, cause lets be honest, it's just cragging... haha.
Moby-Grape, Cannon
Whitney-Gilman, Cannon
Northeast Ridge of the Pinnacle, Mt. Washington
Fastest Gun, Dacks (though haven't finished it)
Recom-beast, Cathedral
The Prow, Cathedral
Mordor Wall, Cathedral
Directissima into High-E's money pitch, Gunks
Keep on Struttin' or Erect Direction (one or the other), Gunks
Ecstasy, Seneca
Sliding Board/Standard Route, Whitehorse
Things I haven't done but would probably add:
Across the Universe, Mt. Willard
Armadillo, Katahdin
Last Unicorn, Whitehorse
A route on the Precipice, Acadia
Glass Menagerie, Looking Glass
Wouldn't add:
The Nose, Looking Glass (also thought it wasn't that great, it blended with the other routes in the vicinity, but would add a better route there)
Vertigo, Cannon - disjointed, not commonly topped out
Diagonal, Wallface, Dacks - not that great
Thin Air, Cathedral - mundane, crowded
Bonnie's, CCK, Ant's, Dangler, etc., Gunks - single glory pitches, not iconic
Andromeda Strain, Inhibitor, Rebar, The Gift, Bedtime for Bonzo, Thunder Chicken, Golden Locks - single pitch cragging (except for BfB), all incredible lines, but not full day classic adventures
anything at Rumney - i mean really, sport climbing?, classic?
I like things that top out, are long, relatively sustained, have numerous great pitches, not just one glory pitch at the grade, remote, alpine, exposed, situated in a great location, those are my inclinations, to each his own.
Ice (if you're including it):
Shoestring Gully, Mt. Webster
Pinnacle Gully, Huntington
Standard, Frankenstein
Elephant's Head, Smugs
Ice I would add if I wasn't a coward:
Black Dike, Cannon
Called on Account of Rains, Lake Willoughby
Repentence, Cathedral
Cilley-Barber, Katahdin
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cracklover
Feb 7, 2010, 6:15 PM
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I don't know about Arrow at the Gunks. Even Shockley's is a maybe. For a second Gunks moderate after High E, I'd rather see Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope, Son of Easy O, or Bonnie's Roof.
Yeah, if you could just have two moderates at the Gunks, I'd say High E and Bonnie's would get my votes.
How about Acadia? You think anything there is worthy of a 50 classics? Chitlins Corner (10a) is only two (long) pitches, but it's truly superb climbing from beginning to end. That would get my vote.
GO
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cracklover
Feb 7, 2010, 6:18 PM
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jrathfon wrote: Bonnie's, CCK, Ant's, Dangler, etc., Gunks - single glory pitches, not iconic
I'd agree with you, except for Bonnie's. Both pitches are truly fantastic in their own way.
GO
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jrathfon
Feb 7, 2010, 6:27 PM
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cracklover wrote: jrathfon wrote: Bonnie's, CCK, Ant's, Dangler, etc., Gunks - single glory pitches, not iconic I'd agree with you, except for Bonnie's. Both pitches are truly fantastic in their own way. GO
yeah, was a while ago when i did it, don't remember too much of the 2nd pitch, cept' the short traverse to the lip. still it's not my cup of tea, i'd rather go for another 4 pitches after that, but it is the east coast... so it'd get my vote for a moderate at the gunks.
as for making a guide with all moderates, yeah, i'm sure that would be great, but i would want a book that just picked incredible lines with incredible situations, moves, and pitches whether they be 5.6 or 5.12, gives me something to strive to attain.
like look at horowitz and lewis' select climbs of the NE. there some stuff in there i'll never do (or at least lead) (e.g. black dike), but i love that it's in there, it lets me know there are super classics that i should strive to get on past 5.10 and WI3.
add to my previous list of stuff i haven't been on but would probably add: VMC Direct, Cannon
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naitch
Feb 7, 2010, 6:36 PM
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cracklover wrote: How about Acadia? You think anything there is worthy of a 50 classics? Chitlins Corner (10a) is only two (long) pitches, but it's truly superb climbing from beginning to end. That would get my vote. GO
I'd agree, but I'd also previously listed Old Town and Green Mt. Breakdown above...
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