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j_ung
Feb 8, 2010, 12:44 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: Before we go any further, can we nail down a definition of "classic." I believe a lot of things can go into this, but I think a "classic" is a climb that a trip is centered around. As a local, it's easy for us to spout off a hundred climbs at our climbing area that we consider classics. But when you go on a trip, what are those climbs that you circle in the guidebook and say "I don't care what else I do, as long as I do THAT climb." When I went to Red Rocks, Epinepherine was THAT climb. The rest of the climbing was filled with "whatever". ..good climbs, mind you, but still whatever, compared to my target climb. I think cragging and single pitch climbing doesn't lend itself to target climbs. Why would I travel across the country to climb a 50 foot climb? So, when we talk about classics, it might be better if we were not allowed to label "classics" at our local areas. Just a thought. Josh
I agree. I even threw the entire NRG under the bus.
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kachoong
Feb 8, 2010, 1:33 PM
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camhead wrote: This may be another thread topic (yet again), but does anyone have access to the "Fifty Favorite Climbs" list? I remember it begin pretty cool, and I've done quite a few more of those routes than I have the "Fifty Classic Climbs." As I remember, Tricks of the Trade in Zion, Rainbow Wall in RR, Grand Wall in Squish, etc. were some of the routes.
Go here... the contents pages are visible on google books.
I can't be bothered typing them out.
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 8, 2010, 1:50 PM
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cracklover wrote: How about Acadia? You think anything there is worthy of a 50 classics? Chitlins Corner (10a) is only two (long) pitches, but it's truly superb climbing from beginning to end. That would get my vote. GO
I don't know. Acadia is one of my favorite places to climb, but it has more to do with the overall feel. The perfect granite, the ocean, the foliage, the great early and late summer weather, the beautiful drive, the cute little town, etc., etc. I don't think it is because of "classic" or destination climbs.
Although, since you brought it up, here are my absolute faves at Acadia.
The Head Arete, 5.10d
Chitlin's Corner, 5.10a
Jaws, 5.11b
A Dare by the Sea, 5.10c
Guillotine, 5.10a
Old Town to Return to Forever (5.7, 5.9)
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olderic
Feb 8, 2010, 2:57 PM
Post #54 of 71
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guangzhou wrote: charley wrote: What makes a climb a classic? History, the first ascensionist, the route, fun, hard, exposure, or what. Depends on the author of the book to be honest. olderic wrote: There is another aspect to all this too - typically "classic" implies that the climb is within reach of the average climber. If you are familiar with the European, especially British, list and books (wherre all this started) they typically have lists of "classic" climbs for everyman and "extreme" climbs for the hardmen. Fifty Classic climbs didn't list routes that were within rech of the average climber when it was published. Actually, it listed routes that were cutting age for the ERA. Routes that pushed the envelope of climbing for climbers of that generation. quote] Not talking about the Steck Roper 50 Classics - even though I realize that is what the context of this thread is about. I am talking about books like Wilson's Classic Grit and Extreme Grit which predate Steck Roper and by which they were influenced. In that case "classic" has slightly different meaning.
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olderic
Feb 8, 2010, 3:28 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: cracklover wrote: How about Acadia? You think anything there is worthy of a 50 classics? Chitlins Corner (10a) is only two (long) pitches, but it's truly superb climbing from beginning to end. That would get my vote. GO I don't know. Acadia is one of my favorite places to climb, but it has more to do with the overall feel. The perfect granite, the ocean, the foliage, the great early and late summer weather, the beautiful drive, the cute little town, etc., etc. I don't think it is because of "classic" or destination climbs. Although, since you brought it up, here are my absolute faves at Acadia. The Head Arete, 5.10d Chitlin's Corner, 5.10a Jaws, 5.11b A Dare by the Sea, 5.10c Guillotine, 5.10a Old Town to Return to Forever (5.7, 5.9)
The sea cliff stuff is certainly quality and unique and deserves to be in there. It's out of my league but if we are doing the whole histotically significant thing then Transatlantic might qualify. In fact I can personally attest to the fact that it IS with the reach of the average climber as it's closely bolted enough for easy french freeing - even old geezers can do that carrying a pack when in support of their hot shot sons (and the tide is coming in).
The Precipice stuff (and other spots not in Jeff's book) are quality but similar to l.onger stuff in NH or down south. If the limit is 50 then I don't think they make the cut.
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stredna
Feb 8, 2010, 3:33 PM
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single pitch should count in the east. otherwise your excluding some of the best cliffs. If i asked someone from out west to come climb with me, they would be climbing outside of this list. ie. Spiders Web, beer walls, gunks (bonnies direct in 1), seneca (Marshalls to crack of dawn is also just 1 pitch), etc... For the list: Poco-The Fastest Gun, Ancient of Days, Bloody Mary, Gamesmanship. Hurricane Crag might take one of the best 5.7's with Quadraphenia. The gunks sleepers: Yellow Ridge and Midnight Cowboy to...
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forkliftdaddy
Feb 8, 2010, 3:59 PM
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Here are a pair of 1-2 pitch super classics in NC:
- Sour Balls, Sauratown (deemed among the best pitches by Todd Skinner)
- Dinkus Dog, Looking Glass (steep, incut eyebrows to balancy groove)
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justroberto
Feb 8, 2010, 5:55 PM
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euphoricclimbing wrote: I agree that the line has to be multi-pitch... 3) Roadside Attraction - RRG
Single pitch...and not nearly as classic as Autumn or Rock Wars. Not even close.
There are only a few I've climbed that I'd consider "eastern classics" based on quality, history, and enjoyability:
Great Arch at Stone
Soler and Old Man's Route at Seneca
The Daddy at NC Wall
If I were going to buy a ticket back east, climb just one climb, and then leave again without climbing anything else, I can think of 11 that would be worth it for me for one reason or another (the distinct southern tinge is based solely on my ignorance of climbing north of the Mason-Dixon line):
Moore's
Zoo View
Looking Glass
Glass Menagerie
Dinkus Dog
Shortoff
Dopey Duck
Whitesides
Original Route
Laurel Knob
Seconds
Fathom Direct
Big Green
Bigeminy
Seneca
Pleasant Overhangs
NRG
Supercrack
Cannon
Whitney Gilman
Katahdin
The Armadillo
(This post was edited by justroberto on Feb 8, 2010, 5:56 PM)
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kachoong
Feb 8, 2010, 6:00 PM
Post #59 of 71
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So, does consensus say that the book will be "Fifty East Coast Classic Craggin' Routes"? You should be gettin' close to 50 by now.
Justroberto: I was wondering when someone would mention Laurel Knob.
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j_ung
Feb 8, 2010, 7:17 PM
Post #60 of 71
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forkliftdaddy wrote: Here are a pair of 1-2 pitch super classics in NC: - Sour Balls, Sauratown (deemed among the best pitches by Todd Skinner) - Dinkus Dog, Looking Glass (steep, incut eyebrows to balancy groove)
Utterly fantastic climbs, both of them.
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justroberto
Feb 8, 2010, 9:53 PM
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kachoong wrote: Justroberto: I was wondering when someone would mention Laurel Knob.
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jrathfon
Feb 8, 2010, 11:41 PM
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kachoong wrote: So, does consensus say that the book will be "Fifty East Coast Classic Craggin' Routes"? You should be gettin' close to 50 by now. Justroberto: I was wondering when someone would mention Laurel Knob.
i'd make 'em two books. i think a "50 classic east coast singles" would make an equally interesting book. like what crag routes broke boundaries, which ones are completely stellar even though they only hit 100ft, what sport climbs blow your mind (and i'm talking about sport climbs even a traddy would be motivated to jump on, not the average bolt up at the gorge), it'd be a cool take on eastern climbing, leave the routes for a separate book.
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boymeetsrock
Feb 9, 2010, 6:53 AM
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I admit I skimmed this thread. Not sure if there was any consensus on what is a classic.
BUT... I vote for Gamesmanship on Poko. IMHO no list of east coast classics is complete without it.
There I said it.
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LostinMaine
Feb 9, 2010, 9:02 PM
Post #64 of 71
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blueeyedclimber wrote: Guillotine, 5.10a
::applauds:: I love that route. Did it on gear once when I was feeling tough and scared the piss out of myself as I went from the left face and headed over that little overhang on the right. I was so pumped. Not sure if it qualifies as a "classic" but it sure as hell gets my vote for a fun climb.
As for High E, I get it. It's a classic because of its bold history. But I would climb Madame G's any day of the week over High E if I wanted something in that range.
I would also vote for Yum Yum Yab Yum as an easier classic.
Gamesmanship gets my nod at Poke-O, Slim Pickins at Spider's Web, and Frosted Mug at the Beer Walls. The W-G has been said for Cannon and Armadillo at Katahdin.
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hansundfritz
Feb 9, 2010, 10:38 PM
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Has anyone mentioned Green Wall at Seneca?
Other moderate Gunks routes that deserve mention, in my view:
Horseman (Hans and Fritz, 1941), Frog's Head (Fritz 1941),
and Foops. (Okay Foops is not moderate and now requires a guide at Skytop, but it was a pretty iconic line in its day.)
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rangerrob
Feb 10, 2010, 9:33 PM
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Am I the only climber on the planet who thinks High E is way overrated and wouldn't even make a top 100 list? Historic, sure, but not even close to the best 50. Actually I'd be hard pressed to put it on the top 50 IN ThE GUNKS! Someone earlier said that it is really only 50' of climbing.......you overestimate by about 15'. Madame G's has High E and Shockley's beat for a super classic 5.6. Here's some others I would put on the list
Erect Direction 5.10c
Gelsa 5.4
Doubleissima 5.10b
Fat City Direct 5.10d
Bloody Mary on Poke-O 5.9
Fastest Gun on Poke-O 5.9
Recombeast 5.9
VMC Direct Direct 5.10d
Whitney Gilman 5.10d
Pleasant overangs 5.7
Mellifluous 5.11a
The Legacy 5.11b
Those are just the starters. I haven't even been to the big stuff on North Carolina yet!
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hyhuu
Feb 11, 2010, 5:35 PM
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Personally I think In reply to: High E should be on the "50 over-rated" eastern climbs.
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 12, 2010, 12:17 AM
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rangerrob wrote: Erect Direction 5.10c Gelsa 5.4 Doubleissima 5.10b Fat City Direct 5.10d Bloody Mary on Poke-O 5.9 Fastest Gun on Poke-O 5.9 Recombeast 5.9 VMC Direct Direct 5.10d Whitney Gilman 5.10d Pleasant overangs 5.7 Mellifluous 5.11a The Legacy 5.11b
That's a helluva upgrade on Whitney-Gilman . As for your Gunks stuff, I agree with ED and FCD. As for Doubleissima, that is my favorite single pitch in the Gunks. And isn't Fastest Gun 5.10a? Bloody Mary was my favorite single pitch I have done in the Daks, but I have only been there once. Fastest Gun is on the agenda next time. VMC direct direct is on the list for this summer. Also loved Recombeast. I don't know those last three, but it seems we have the same taste in climbs. Well done!
Josh
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j_ung
Feb 12, 2010, 1:12 AM
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Those last three are all WV climbs. Mellifluous and Legacy are at the New and Pleasant Overhangs, which probably does deserve to be on the list at least for consideration, is at Seneca.
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hyhuu
Feb 12, 2010, 5:12 PM
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rangerrob wrote: Am I the only climber on the planet who thinks High E is way overrated and wouldn't even make a top 100 list? Historic, sure, but not even close to the best 50. Actually I'd be hard pressed to put it on the top 50 IN ThE GUNKS! Someone earlier said that it is really only 50' of climbing.......you overestimate by about 15'. Madame G's has High E and Shockley's beat for a super classic 5.6. Here's some others I would put on the list Erect Direction 5.10c Gelsa 5.4 Doubleissima 5.10b Fat City Direct 5.10d Bloody Mary on Poke-O 5.9 Fastest Gun on Poke-O 5.9 Recombeast 5.9 VMC Direct Direct 5.10d Whitney Gilman 5.10d Pleasant overangs 5.7 Mellifluous 5.11a The Legacy 5.11b Those are just the starters. I haven't even been to the big stuff on North Carolina yet!
Mellifluous? Really? It's a nice climb but it's also a one move wonder. Legacy is a very beautiful looking line but climbing wise it's not nearly as interesting as "Recondite" and the one just to the left of it. Not to mention these are both trad lines too.
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