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carabiner96
Oct 5, 2010, 1:14 PM
Post #76 of 225
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jt512 wrote: Most worthless piece of gear? The Rock Exotica BiWire Carabiner: [img]http://www.gear.com/wp-content/images/posts/full_225_3.jpg[/img] Honorable mention: The Black Diamond ATC–n00b: [img]http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/uploads/products/6/2/0/620052_atcsport_rb.jpg[/img] Jay
Not sure why everyone is one starring this post, I think he's suggested the winners in this thread so far.
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rsmillbern
Oct 5, 2010, 2:47 PM
Post #77 of 225
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jt512 wrote: Most worthless piece of gear? The Rock Exotica BiWire Carabiner: [img]http://www.gear.com/wp-content/images/posts/full_225_3.jpg[/img] Honorable mention: The Black Diamond ATC–n00b: [img]http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/uploads/products/6/2/0/620052_atcsport_rb.jpg[/img] Jay
+1
WTF the 2 rope ATC is too heavy? Belay with a munter...
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hafilax
Oct 5, 2010, 3:13 PM
Post #78 of 225
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carabiner96 wrote: jt512 wrote: Most worthless piece of gear? The Rock Exotica BiWire Carabiner: [img]http://www.gear.com/wp-content/images/posts/full_225_3.jpg[/img] Honorable mention: The Black Diamond ATC–n00b: [img]http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/uploads/products/6/2/0/620052_atcsport_rb.jpg[/img] Jay Not sure why everyone is one starring this post, I think he's suggested the winners in this thread so far.
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dynosore
Oct 5, 2010, 3:29 PM
Post #79 of 225
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rangerrob wrote: The whole concept of a stick clip, and sport climbing in general is kind of absurd. You are manufacturing a route with whatever degree of danger you want to have in it. If it's okay to stick clip the first bolt, why not stick clip the second, or third? Why not leave the rope hanging from all but the chains? What's the difference? RR
It's simple really. You can spray about how you "led" xyz even though you effectively toproped the crux and fell 15 times before sending it. Too many people way too worried about what grade they can climb to impress other people. You know what impresses me? A guy who can walk up to any 5.9 crack, offwidth, or face climb and trad lead it, onsight. That impresses me. Not another dime a dozen spraybot that "leads" 5.12 with a stickclip and takes 3 weeks to work a climb into submission.
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lvpyne
Oct 5, 2010, 8:20 PM
Post #81 of 225
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blueeyedclimber wrote: I can't recall finding any gear that was useless, but I did see someone climbing a steep route at the Gunks, carry a #5 and #6 camalot. Theres not too many overhanging offwidths at the Gunks.
I'm slowly coming to terms with this and I'm distraught...I hung my 5s, 6s, and 9s up on my gear rack this week and realized that they're not going to get much love for a while...
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julio412
Oct 5, 2010, 9:03 PM
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I bought a couple of these for a Scotland trip a couple of winters ago.
Used them as lockers at belays- they worked great.
Most lockers in shitty(Scottish) conditions will eventually just freeze up; then you're kind of fucked.
Gave one to a Scottish guide even; he could easily the benefits.
Mario
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AntinJ
Oct 5, 2010, 10:02 PM
Post #83 of 225
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My Steel Omega Pacific locking carabiner. I bought it when I was first learning to set up top-ropes.....
What a waste of moolah. But look at the bright side; next time I need 62kN of holding power, I know where to find it!
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hafilax
Oct 5, 2010, 10:25 PM
Post #84 of 225
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AntinJ wrote: My Steel Omega Pacific locking carabiner. I bought it when I was first learning to set up top-ropes..... What a waste of moolah. But look at the bright side; next time I need 62kN of holding power, I know where to find it! [image]http://media.rei.com/media/801624.jpg[/image]
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technogeekery
Oct 6, 2010, 12:12 AM
Post #85 of 225
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Its not intrinsically useless - but about the only piece of gear I have that I don't use is my daisy chain. I bought it when I got back into climbing 2 years ago after a long break, and saw a lot of people using them as tethers on sport climbs and multipitch. Then I remembered / worked out / learned about 3 better and safer ways to do each of the things I had been using it for, and retired it.
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Perihelion
Oct 6, 2010, 4:44 AM
Post #86 of 225
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devkrev wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: kachoong wrote: Oh, by far the grappling hook. ... Fucking n00b. You need a grappling hook with retractable teeth. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/P1000652.jpg[/IMG] jeez, are you guys freakin' ninjas or something?
I'm going to go with "or something," by which I mean "moron." Why in the world would you be carrying that thing? I try to maintain a broad perspective of things I don't quite personally appreciate, but this one is pushing the envelope. So you're flinging that thing up the rock and you can't figure out why it comes back to hit you? And for that you blame the hook? And, if it does snag, you'd trust a piece that just randomly snagged a rock or a root? Moron! Moron! MOR-RON!!
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moose_droppings
Oct 6, 2010, 6:27 AM
Post #87 of 225
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Perihelion wrote: devkrev wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: kachoong wrote: Oh, by far the grappling hook. ... Fucking n00b. You need a grappling hook with retractable teeth. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/P1000652.jpg[/IMG] jeez, are you guys freakin' ninjas or something? I'm going to go with "or something," by which I mean "moron." Why in the world would you be carrying that thing? I try to maintain a broad perspective of things I don't quite personally appreciate, but this one is pushing the envelope. So you're flinging that thing up the rock and you can't figure out why it comes back to hit you? And for that you blame the hook? And, if it does snag, you'd trust a piece that just randomly snagged a rock or a root? Moron! Moron! MOR-RON!!
I'm quoting this one before it gets away.
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redlude97
Oct 6, 2010, 7:11 AM
Post #88 of 225
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moose_droppings wrote: Perihelion wrote: devkrev wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: kachoong wrote: Oh, by far the grappling hook. ... Fucking n00b. You need a grappling hook with retractable teeth. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/P1000652.jpg[/IMG] jeez, are you guys freakin' ninjas or something? I'm going to go with "or something," by which I mean "moron." Why in the world would you be carrying that thing? I try to maintain a broad perspective of things I don't quite personally appreciate, but this one is pushing the envelope. So you're flinging that thing up the rock and you can't figure out why it comes back to hit you? And for that you blame the hook? And, if it does snag, you'd trust a piece that just randomly snagged a rock or a root? Moron! Moron! MOR-RON!! I'm quoting this one before it gets away.
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c4c
Oct 6, 2010, 10:30 AM
Post #89 of 225
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devkrev wrote: Hey, I found myself finding very few nut placements on Chapel Pond Slab in the Dacks. I remember being happy that my fiancee decided to bring extra small cams. I would be tempted to not bring nuts at all, but that would make for some expensive bailing if need be.
I just established a new route only a mile or two up the road from chapel pond slab called Chock full o' nuts that you could use all of your nuts before the first belay. It all depends on the route that you are on.
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dingus
Oct 6, 2010, 12:32 PM
Post #90 of 225
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julio412 wrote: I bought a couple of these for a Scotland trip a couple of winters ago. Used them as lockers at belays- they worked great. Most lockers in shitty(Scottish) conditions will eventually just freeze up; then you're kind of fucked. Gave one to a Scottish guide even; he could easily the benefits. Mario
Ah the only think your Scottish climbing and SoCal sport climbing have in common are the attitudes.
Hehe. And that is IT. Even the ropes are different.
DMT
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rangerrob
Oct 6, 2010, 12:51 PM
Post #91 of 225
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I love the "I established a new route" when he is telling someone about a another climb to try. Notice he didn't just say "there is route just down the road that would be better for you". He had to add the "I established it" part. I love it!! We all want our recognition, right?
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carabiner96
Oct 6, 2010, 1:13 PM
Post #92 of 225
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rangerrob wrote: I love the "I established a new route" when he is telling someone about a another climb to try. Notice he didn't just say "there is route just down the road that would be better for you". He had to add the "I established it" part. I love it!! We all want our recognition, right?
I think you're reading too much into it, Mr. 'My shit smells so much like roses that I'm too good for bolts, lookahme! Lookahme!.'
C4C, can you pm me deets? I'd love to hop on it next weekend...is it north or south>
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jakedatc
Oct 6, 2010, 1:46 PM
Post #93 of 225
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carabiner96 wrote: rangerrob wrote: I love the "I established a new route" when he is telling someone about a another climb to try. Notice he didn't just say "there is route just down the road that would be better for you". He had to add the "I established it" part. I love it!! We all want our recognition, right? I think you're reading too much into it, Mr. 'My shit smells so much like roses that I'm too good for bolts, lookahme! Lookahme!.' C4C, can you pm me deets? I'd love to hop on it next weekend...is it north or south>
HA :checks clipboard: ZING!
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Perihelion
Oct 6, 2010, 3:02 PM
Post #94 of 225
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redlude97 wrote: moose_droppings wrote: Perihelion wrote: devkrev wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: kachoong wrote: Oh, by far the grappling hook. ... Fucking n00b. You need a grappling hook with retractable teeth. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/P1000652.jpg[/IMG] jeez, are you guys freakin' ninjas or something? I'm going to go with "or something," by which I mean "moron." Why in the world would you be carrying that thing? I try to maintain a broad perspective of things I don't quite personally appreciate, but this one is pushing the envelope. So you're flinging that thing up the rock and you can't figure out why it comes back to hit you? And for that you blame the hook? And, if it does snag, you'd trust a piece that just randomly snagged a rock or a root? Moron! Moron! MOR-RON!! I'm quoting this one before it gets away. That could be the post of the year
Could be... not. The original post was a troll. That's OK -- I had a good rant and felt better afterwards. 
On topic, I'll nominate the Metolius PAS as the most worthless piece of gear I personally own. For $25 you get 1/6 the functionality of $4 worth of 7mm accessory cord. On the bright side, at least the PAS gets in your way all the time and it is not at all versatile. Such a deal.
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MS1
Oct 6, 2010, 3:11 PM
Post #95 of 225
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Perihelion wrote: redlude97 wrote: moose_droppings wrote: Perihelion wrote: devkrev wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: kachoong wrote: Oh, by far the grappling hook. ... Fucking n00b. You need a grappling hook with retractable teeth. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/P1000652.jpg[/IMG] jeez, are you guys freakin' ninjas or something? I'm going to go with "or something," by which I mean "moron." Why in the world would you be carrying that thing? I try to maintain a broad perspective of things I don't quite personally appreciate, but this one is pushing the envelope. So you're flinging that thing up the rock and you can't figure out why it comes back to hit you? And for that you blame the hook? And, if it does snag, you'd trust a piece that just randomly snagged a rock or a root? Moron! Moron! MOR-RON!! I'm quoting this one before it gets away. That could be the post of the year Could be... not. The original post was a troll. That's OK -- I had a good rant and felt better afterwards. On topic, I'll nominate the Metolius PAS as the most worthless piece of gear I personally own. For $25 you get 1/6 the functionality of $4 worth of 7mm accessory cord. On the bright side, at least the PAS gets in your way all the time and it is not at all versatile. Such a deal.
+1. But I would go farther: The PAS is actually worse than a $4 piece of nylon cord, due to its use of high-tech, low-stretch materials.
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Perihelion
Oct 6, 2010, 4:19 PM
Post #96 of 225
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MS1 wrote: Perihelion wrote: [ On topic, I'll nominate the Metolius PAS as the most worthless piece of gear I personally own. For $25 you get 1/6 the functionality of $4 worth of 7mm accessory cord. On the bright side, at least the PAS gets in your way all the time and it is not at all versatile. Such a deal. +1. But I would go farther: The PAS is actually worse than a $4 piece of nylon cord, due to its use of high-tech, low-stretch materials.
That is my other major objection to the PAS. I've decided that I will not use a static personal anchor. I doubt I'll ever fall directly onto my anchor, because I am careful not to put myself into a situation where that is a likely outcome. But, if I ever systematically screw up every step of the process and manage to fall on my anchor, I see no reason to make the situation even worse by landing on a static tie-in.
I have settled on a Purcel prusik made with 7mm, all-nylon cord as my personal anchor. I don't use a daisy chain, but if I did, I'd pick one made of nylon with the "weak" 300lbf loop stitching.
(This post was edited by Perihelion on Oct 6, 2010, 4:20 PM)
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dingus
Oct 6, 2010, 4:46 PM
Post #97 of 225
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The turn around away from personal anchor systems such as PAS and daisies and cordalettes is both heartening and amazing.
My work seems done here.
DMT
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karmiclimber
Oct 6, 2010, 4:54 PM
Post #98 of 225
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technogeekery wrote: Its not intrinsically useless - but about the only piece of gear I have that I don't use is my daisy chain. I bought it when I got back into climbing 2 years ago after a long break, and saw a lot of people using them as tethers on sport climbs and multipitch. Then I remembered / worked out / learned about 3 better and safer ways to do each of the things I had been using it for, and retired it.
I use mine as a gear sling...it actually works really well.
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Perihelion
Oct 6, 2010, 6:41 PM
Post #99 of 225
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dingus wrote: The turn around away from personal anchor systems such as PAS and daisies and cordalettes is both heartening and amazing. My work seems done here. DMT
Your work might be done here, but I think you still need to go forth unto the Land, and spread the Word, for yea, the infidels remain ignorant. We need a Prophet, someone with a venerable name such as "dingus", "dorkus", or "doofus." If you can perform a laying on of hands and lift the veil of ignorance from the masses, even a name such as yours shall be celebrated long after your untimely death due to autoerotic asphyxiation (one of the diverse uses for a Purcel prusik, or so I hear).
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