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milesenoell
Oct 20, 2010, 5:25 PM
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fresh wrote: jt512 wrote: ptlong2 wrote: jt512 wrote: This implies, perhaps surprisingly, that the maximum impact force (on the climber) in such a toprope "fall" will be twice the climber's weight, and perhaps more surprisingly, it will be so for a rope of any elasticity. Any linear elasticity. If the rope deviates from Hooke's Law over the range in question the force may not be twice the climber's weight. Yes. I stated in an earlier post, the model assumes that the rope behaves according to Hooke's Law. Jay I swear, the stars have got to go. do you know how accurate Hooke's Law is in predicting the rope's behavior?
It's always the same: 4 one-star ratings, often attached to the most clear and helpful out of several of jt512's posts in a thread. I wonder if Jay knows who the four people are yet?
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dingus
Oct 20, 2010, 6:32 PM
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Not me, just for the record.
DMT
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milesenoell
Oct 20, 2010, 7:03 PM
Post #180 of 225
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dingus wrote: Not me, just for the record. DMT
Hey now, don't set a precedent or there will be lots of us needing to defend ourselves in a similar fashion.
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boymeetsrock
Oct 20, 2010, 7:13 PM
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milesenoell wrote: dingus wrote: Not me, just for the record. DMT Hey now, don't set a precedent or there will be lots of us needing to defend ourselves in a similar fashion.
Not that this is the place for it, but I argued for disclosure of star rating before and will again. And its not me either. Just sayin'.
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dingus
Oct 20, 2010, 7:20 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote: milesenoell wrote: dingus wrote: Not me, just for the record. DMT Hey now, don't set a precedent or there will be lots of us needing to defend ourselves in a similar fashion. Not that this is the place for it, but I argued for disclosure of star rating before and will again. And its not me either. Just sayin'.
Someone will just steal them anyway.
DMT
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milesenoell
Oct 20, 2010, 7:22 PM
Post #183 of 225
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boymeetsrock wrote: milesenoell wrote: dingus wrote: Not me, just for the record. DMT Hey now, don't set a precedent or there will be lots of us needing to defend ourselves in a similar fashion. Not that this is the place for it, but I argued for disclosure of star rating before and will again. And its not me either. Just sayin'.
While I am no fan of the stars, I was actually just joking around with Dingus about being ugly and useless.
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milesenoell
Oct 20, 2010, 7:24 PM
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..but maybe I was mistaken about what he was referring to.
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dingus
Oct 20, 2010, 7:32 PM
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milesenoell wrote: boymeetsrock wrote: milesenoell wrote: dingus wrote: Not me, just for the record. DMT Hey now, don't set a precedent or there will be lots of us needing to defend ourselves in a similar fashion. Not that this is the place for it, but I argued for disclosure of star rating before and will again. And its not me either. Just sayin'. While I am no fan of the stars, I was actually just joking around with Dingus about being ugly and useless.
Don't be so hard on yourself. Even a hippo's momma thinks its pretty.
And you can craft a cogent sentence, so you're not ENTIRELY useless!
DMT
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milesenoell
Oct 20, 2010, 7:36 PM
Post #186 of 225
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boymeetsrock wrote: milesenoell wrote: dingus wrote: Not me, just for the record. DMT Hey now, don't set a precedent or there will be lots of us needing to defend ourselves in a similar fashion. Not that this is the place for it, but I argued for disclosure of star rating before and will again. And its not me either. Just sayin'.
What I'd like to see is some other tag that could be applied to posts worth checking out, so that the best bits of info would stand out over much longer periods of time. That way the site would improve naturally over time. When 50 people give some post a thumbs up or whatever you could see that and go check out a post even if it's 5 years old.
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jt512
Oct 20, 2010, 7:59 PM
Post #187 of 225
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milesenoell wrote: boymeetsrock wrote: milesenoell wrote: dingus wrote: Not me, just for the record. DMT Hey now, don't set a precedent or there will be lots of us needing to defend ourselves in a similar fashion. Not that this is the place for it, but I argued for disclosure of star rating before and will again. And its not me either. Just sayin'. What I'd like to see is some other tag that could be applied to posts worth checking out, so that the best bits of info would stand out over much longer periods of time. That way the site would improve naturally over time. When 50 people give some post a thumbs up or whatever you could see that and go check out a post even if it's 5 years old.
That's exactly what the star ratings were supposed to be. J_ung, when he was in charge, planned to allow users to search for highly rated posts. However, whether you use use a 5-star system, or just a thumbs-up tag to rate posts, it is now clear that the results won't be reliable if users are not held publicly accountable for their votes.
Jay
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boymeetsrock
Oct 20, 2010, 8:00 PM
Post #188 of 225
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oopps.  I'm always so literal... Damn it, damn it, damn it!
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rainman0915
Oct 20, 2010, 8:02 PM
Post #189 of 225
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milesenoell wrote: rainman0915 wrote: [image]https://www.alpenglowgear.com/gear/images/BEGA.jpg[/image] talk about unnecessarily over complicating a design Ugly, sure. Useless though? Edited for photo
well i guess it doesn't fit perfectly in the "useless" category, but who on earth would pay 12.95 for one of these? over a more usable and affordable bent gate or wire gate of course.
(This post was edited by rainman0915 on Oct 20, 2010, 8:07 PM)
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hafilax
Oct 20, 2010, 8:05 PM
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I think a system where one star is worth more than a no stars might clear that up. Some seem to think that 1 star=crap but I end up reading 1 star posts because they usually have something to add even if it's just purely for entertainment.
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jt512
Oct 20, 2010, 8:06 PM
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milesenoell wrote: rainman0915 wrote:  talk about unnecessarily over complicating a design Ugly, sure. Useless though? Edited for photo
I wonder how far the extreme bar stock trend for carabiners is going to go. After about 1 mm of wear, the basket of that carabiner looks like it's going to turn into a knife blade. See the thread about the rope that was severed by a sharp fixed draw, for details.
Jay
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moose_droppings
Oct 20, 2010, 8:13 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote: Not that this is the place for it, but I argued for disclosure of star rating before and will again. And its not me either. Just sayin'.
Me too.
Just like the prior way of rating, any monkey can stand in the shadows and toss poop.
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dingus
Oct 20, 2010, 8:28 PM
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Ive seen several climbing sites with the equivalent of star ratings. Public accountability means nothing, it still becomes a popularity contest.
And the sort of public accountability jt512 has in mind, the one where HE is in charge of accountability, will NEVER EVER COME TO PASS, not here, not anywhere free red blooded climbers inhabit. We can't stand that sort of in-house tyranny.
Hahahahahahahahaha!
DMT
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camhead
Oct 21, 2010, 1:41 PM
Post #195 of 225
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spikeddem wrote: rainman0915 wrote: talk about unnecessarily over complicating a design An essentially regular, non-locking, bent gate biner just got nominated as the most useless piece of climbing gear. haha.
Actually, wait until that thing gets worn down one-third of the way by the rope. You'll find that it is not quite so "regular." I pulled a half dozen of these off of some routes at the Red a few weeks back. The cross section of the biner wears down to a knife edge way easier than normal biners.
(edited to fix image tag, and to say that JT GU'd me.)
(This post was edited by camhead on Oct 21, 2010, 1:47 PM)
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spikeddem
Oct 21, 2010, 2:01 PM
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camhead wrote: spikeddem wrote: rainman0915 wrote: [image]https://www.alpenglowgear.com/gear/images/BEGA.jpg[/image] talk about unnecessarily over complicating a design An essentially regular, non-locking, bent gate biner just got nominated as the most useless piece of climbing gear. haha. Actually, wait until that thing gets worn down one-third of the way by the rope. You'll find that it is not quite so "regular." I pulled a half dozen of these off of some routes at the Red a few weeks back. The cross section of the biner wears down to a knife edge way easier than normal biners. (edited to fix image tag, and to say that JT GU'd me.)
A good point that had not crossed my mind. Here in MN, it's easy to forget that fixed gear exists in other places 
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camhead
Oct 21, 2010, 2:06 PM
Post #197 of 225
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spikeddem wrote: camhead wrote: spikeddem wrote: rainman0915 wrote: [image]https://www.alpenglowgear.com/gear/images/BEGA.jpg[/image] talk about unnecessarily over complicating a design An essentially regular, non-locking, bent gate biner just got nominated as the most useless piece of climbing gear. haha. Actually, wait until that thing gets worn down one-third of the way by the rope. You'll find that it is not quite so "regular." I pulled a half dozen of these off of some routes at the Red a few weeks back. The cross section of the biner wears down to a knife edge way easier than normal biners. (edited to fix image tag, and to say that JT GU'd me.) A good point that had not crossed my mind. Here in MN, it's easy to forget that fixed gear exists in other places
Yeah, those style of biners are just the worst offenders for wearing down to a sharp edge, but they are not the only ones. Bottom line: if you are going to leave fixed draws on a route that will become popular, steel, with a simple round cross-section are the best option.
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acorneau
Oct 21, 2010, 2:23 PM
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camhead wrote: ... Bottom line: if you are going to leave fixed draws on a route that will become popular, steel, with a simple round cross-section are the best option.
FYI: CAMP steel bent-gate biners with capture pin are on sale here: http://www.sierratradingpost.com/...-Safe-Carabiner.html
Price drops to less than $6 a piece if you use a coupon.
Carry on!
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csproul
Oct 21, 2010, 2:24 PM
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camhead wrote: spikeddem wrote: rainman0915 wrote: [image]https://www.alpenglowgear.com/gear/images/BEGA.jpg[/image] talk about unnecessarily over complicating a design An essentially regular, non-locking, bent gate biner just got nominated as the most useless piece of climbing gear. haha. Actually, wait until that thing gets worn down one-third of the way by the rope. You'll find that it is not quite so "regular." I pulled a half dozen of these off of some routes at the Red a few weeks back. The cross section of the biner wears down to a knife edge way easier than normal biners. (edited to fix image tag, and to say that JT GU'd me.)
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moose_droppings
Oct 21, 2010, 4:12 PM
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Just to add to your post;
Gear Express has 3 different Liberty Mountain steel biners for under $10.
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