http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7_4n_4Qhu4&feature=player_embedded#!

Nice video, thanks for pointing it out.

+1

full story ... note the single point of attachment leash with a knotted dyneema sling for both rangers ... id assume that they know what they are doing

im sure some people on this board will have a fit with that ;)

The last I heard, they use full Mtn guides for rescue.

full story ... note the single point of attachment leash with a knotted dyneema sling for both rangers ... id assume that they know what they are doing

im sure some people on this board will have a fit with that ;)

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http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/2164/picture140.png[/image]

[image]http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/8422/picture15rv.png[/image]

and this is why you wear a helmet ...

[image]http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/5038/picture160.png[/image]

http://www.adventure-journal.com/...adventure+journal%29

Jonathan Lytton was just climbing along last August on Dan’s Delight in Banff National Park, Alberta, and then he wasn’t: A rock fell from above, smashing his helmet and sending him from the sharp end of the rope into a leader fall. His first piece of protection pulled out and by the time he was caught by his partner and belayer, he’d plummeted 66 feet. The fall broke his ankle and some ribs, dislocated his shoulder, and left him unconscious for five minutes with head injuries.

Though severely injured, a number of things went in Lytton’s favor: His partner was able to lower him to a ledge, he had a cell phone signal, and it was a flawless summer day for a rescue helicopter to pluck him from the cliff. The search and rescue crews of Parks Canada respond to 300-some incidents each year in the Canadian Rockies parks (Banff, Jasper, Yoho, Kootenay, Waterton, Glacier), and recently they’ve begun wearing GoPro helmetcams on their missions. In this case, the rescue was conducted and captured by Steve Holeczi and his partner Aaron Beardmore, who are so calm and professional it sounds like a day at the beach.

“The message in this video is that it can happen to anyone,” Holeczi told CTV News. “It was a nice day, these guys were on a climb that was well within their abilities and they had an accident, but they had a cell phone, our emergency dispatch number, they knew how to signal us on the cliff. Had they not done that — not been able to initiate a rescue right away — then the outcome might have been quite different.”

Or, as the official analysis of the accident put it, “Given that the party was sufficiently experienced for the undertaking it can only be said that sometimes, ‘things happen’. Loose rock is a fact of life in the Mountain National Parks, and sometimes it can come loose and knock climbers off their stance.”

This Parks Canada image shows Lytton’s high point and stopping level.

[image]http://www.adventure-journal.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/leaderfall.jpg[/image]

This is another Hollywood vids for you guys. for some this is business and I personally did not like what I saw.

Watch your manners. Majid!

These boys are our SAR and do a great job on our turf.

On the other hand, if you want to help improve our gear, methods, and infrastructure, then come on up to the Canadian Rockies and show us how. You could run your own school, or maybe even start a new SAR company.

But if you're not willing to put your money where your mouth is, then keep it shut.

so mista majid ... are you saying that the folks at parks canada rescue don't know what they are doing?

hmmmmm ....

so are you saying that they forgot the rules in this case?

let me ask you this ... do you believe that the actions of parks canada rescue in this video put lives at risks unnecessarily? ... and if so, is it not your moral obligation as a SAR person to contact parks canada about these gaps?

either you believe it safe or you do not ...

Without knowing what the standard procedures in this sort of situation are in Alberta, I can't say what is accepted or not. Having basic personal protection gear (ie, gloves) is pretty universal when blood is present. if you closely watch the vids, you see that guys on the ground have their gloves on cause they are medic and follow their rules.

I guess at the end, one climber is saved and we can move on.

Question from an SAR n00b; when the guy hanging from the chopper clips to the anchor, is the chopper then anchored to the cliff? Is that avoided when possible or not a bug deal? I recall hearing about the ropes thrown from the choppers in Y.V. having a note saying not attach help helicopter rope to the anchor.

Question from an SAR n00b; when the guy hanging from the chopper clips to the anchor, is the chopper then anchored to the cliff? Is that avoided when possible or not a bug deal? I recall hearing about the ropes thrown from the choppers in Y.V. having a note saying not attach help helicopter rope to the anchor.

the next time you tell someone they are going to die because they didnt do things the majid way ...

ill just say "well dude he climbs in alberta"

lol

Without knowing what the standard procedures in this sort of situation are in Alberta, I can't say what is accepted or not. Having basic personal protection gear (ie, gloves) is pretty universal when blood is present. if you closely watch the vids, you see that guys on the ground have their gloves on cause they are medic and follow their rules.

I guess at the end, one climber is saved and we can move on.

you have no idea how many people die every year trying to save others.

http://en.wikinews.org/...nd_Rescue_Helicopter

i have a pretty good idea of how you dogmatically tell everybody theyre going to die if they dont do things your way

yet you dont seem to be able to express the same to parks canada rescue ... guess they can actually tell you to go buzz off ... hmmmm

im quite sure they would value reputable, experienced SAR folks helping to point out points where they can improve on ...

Go read the comments in the youtube

#
Firenurse100
5 days ago

This is great work. Even with the edits they made fast work in a tough spot to get that patient off. I do agree that the Team needs gloves as there was plenty of blood there.

also many comments were removed and i wonder why

Go read the comments in the youtube

#
Firenurse100
5 days ago

This is great work. Even with the edits they made fast work in a tough spot to get that patient off. I do agree that the Team needs gloves as there was plenty of blood there.

also many comments were removed and i wonder why

sorry Dan but if you had any medical training then you know when a guy is hit in the head, you stabilize the head and neck first then you go after the leg. with blood present then they should put their gloves on and try not clip yourself with one link.

again, I like to see their standard operating procedures manual. May be things are done differently in Alberta .

Reading the comments in this thread is really difficult. You guys are spraying close to my home.

I can't claim that the Canadian Rockies is some kind of special area that nobody else can understand. But it is what it is, and our climbers are people who climb here.

Our support organizations invest a lot of time, effort, and money so they can operate effectively. That means our SAR's, EMT's, and parks staff are heroic angels of mercy, even more than simply handsome and intelligent.

So when some of you guys are writing as if you are correct about life here, you should watch out what it is you are criticizing.

In my post on Page #1, I said "Watch your manners, Majid" and it bears repeating.

And thanks, BB, for doing such a great job of presenting this true story about our climbing scene. Also "the_climber" is very experienced here -- when he writes about the Rockies, you can know that he actually is correct.

youre depending on you tube comments now maiid? ... weak sauce ...

ill get you the number for parks canada if you want ;)

in my comment, I asked them about their address so I could mail them a set of gloves

And thanks, BB, for doing such a great job of presenting this true story about our climbing scene. Also "the_climber" is very experienced here -- when he writes about the Rockies, you can know that he actually is correct.

About the tone of Majids remarks… it's not really elegant how he calls people out, but if you've been on this board for a while, you probably know about his background and language situation. A bit of empathy would be reasonable here. I think his points stand anyway.

he may or may not have a point

but rather than contacting them directly as a professional, he prefers to armchair general on a web forum

he has no trouble telling other people on this forum how stupid they are or how they are going to die if they dont listen to him

why cant he tell parks canada the same if he really believes there is an issue

not very empathetic IMO ... im sure if they had issues about a video he posted, theyd contact him directly first

theyre professionals ... im sure they would welcome ways to improve

Instead of been nationalist hero, try to learn something. when a climber take 20 meter fall and has blood in his helmet, you support the head and neck first and then you go after everything else. that is how is suppose to be done.

parks canada moutain safety ... link is on the top to contact

http://www.pc.gc.ca/progs/np-pn/sp-ps/index_e.asp

one of the rescuers aaron beardmore is also owner of transworld mountaineering ... he's also a director of the canadian avalanche association ... you can prob contact him at either

http://www.transworldmountaineering.com/

now whether you actually contact them or spend your time telling people here theyre going to die ... thats up to you

but you seem awfully good at arm chair generalling ... if youre going to do it to Parks Canada Rescue ... i suggest contacing them directly

im sure they would welcome the opportunity to share practices and information with fellow accredited experienced SAR groups ... anything that makes them and their clients safer

you are that arent you?

I never said they did not do a good job but still , there is set of protocol those in charge have to follow and that is in the book.Not my book but people forget and I have done it myself so I am not a shame of it. Also ,this a public forum where everyone have a right to say whatever they want as long as it's within the topic. you show a vids then get ready for whatever comes at you.

majid ... you can of course say and criticize whatever and whoever you want ... i mean its not like yr leaking a while bunch of classified state department documents is it?

however i personally think its a simple courtesy to Parks Canada SAR to contact them first

now whether youre a courteous person or not ... thats up to you

but you sure are the only "SAR" person who ive seen that keeps on telling people they are going to die and what idiots they are

you do realize that you spewing stuff on a forums aint going to help anything ...

as someone who does climb occasionally in the canadian rockies i would MUCH appreciate you sharing you knowledge with them ... as that could be me there being rescued one day ... and i or anyone else in that situation would like to have a safe rescue

all i see however is you armchair genralling just to stroke yr internet eqo ... please contact them, you may help save lives

Since they are doing more than just getting vitals, you can see how easy those gloves would become ripped and useless.

sorry Dan but if you had any medical training then you know when a guy is hit in the head, you stabilize the head and neck first then you go after the leg. with blood present then they should put their gloves on and try not clip yourself with one link.

again, I like to see their standard operating procedures manual. May be things are done differently in Alberta .

I like to see their short haul and medical assessment SOP manual.
No medical gloves, one sling connection to wall, etc

This is another Hollywood vids for you guys. for some this is business and I personally did not like what I saw.

Watch your manners. Majid! ...

When I first joined rc.com, I did not know what "thread highjacking" meant. Now I'm an expert.

Tomorrow is Sunday. Every Sunday morning I drive my wife to work, then head for the hills somewhere (anywhere) and explore or climb or scramble or something.

So tomorrow, I will be simply following animal tracks in the snow. While I'm focusing on the story the tracks tell me (if I can) I will not be worrying at all about my impact on rc.com. I will not be concerned about how I've totally highjacked this thread!

still havent contacted them yet mista majid?

a professional would have had a polite frank discussion with fellow peers rather than QB and random photos just to "prove" themselves

wake me up once you talk to them ...

they are your fellow SAR brothers arent they?

I am sure other SAR brothers and sisters already point out what needs to be known and there is no reasons for me to do anything . if you guys truly think what I have mentioned here is out of line or the 4" crack and blood on the helmet was not that important, then we leave it to other professional to decide what was right or wrong at that given moment on the wall.

At the end, we want to improve our skills and give the best care without jeopardizing our own lives.

at the end of the day you really should contact them ... and give them yr advice, rather than trying to say they are just wrong on an internet forum without giving them the ability to explain it

its what any professional would do

unless there is a reason why you dont want to talk to them ....

hmmmmmmm

its called SAR politics my friend and things are little more complicated than an average person could understand so I just leave it here.

so yr "politicking" parks canada SAR ... i think that those brave folks who put their lives at risk deserve better than this

i think the average person will understand that you refuse to contact them directly and would rather QB them on an internet forum

all it takes is a simple email ...

but hey ... if you are afraid of something .... oh well

#
ParksCanadaAgency
1 week ago

@Tanker256

The patient ended up suffering a broken ankle, broken ribs and resulting pneumothorax in the lung, dislocated shoulder, point tenderness in his back and spine, as well as a lacerated face.

Yes, that's my point. They don't seem to bothered by what the video shows the public or they wouldn't have released it.

I know what we hear in the video but we didn't here the initial call, or the first contact. There was a rescuer already on the scene. We don't know what he has discussed with the patient.

The patient appears mobile and the rescuer on the scene may well have arleady conducted an assessment and concluded the guy was fine. The collar may just be additional support for the air-lift and wasn't a medical necessity. There's a lot we don't know. There was obviously things done that we can see for ourselves appear out of order. What we don't know is the motivation behind how things were done.

The guy might have been really stubborn and said he was totally fine. It may have been something like, "Okay you are not getting an air-lift out of here unless you let us put a collar on you for the ride out. " That might have been all there was to it.

EDIT - PTFW

still afraid to contact em?

wonder why ... your "politicking" ... hmmmmm

just write em an email ...

Not to be TOO detailed here, but you know you had to be making a mistake when you said NO conceivable reason...

Sure the VAST majority of times, bad call. But there are some times when it just might make sense.

Overall, I agree. Majid's made some good points (in his classically divisive way), and people aren't willing to acknowledge them.

And bearbreeder. Chill dude. Majid has a valid point, both in his critique and in why he should NOT contact the SAR organization that performed the rescue. If you can't see that, sorry, maybe just take a little bit of time and cool off.

Nothing like over-zealous nationalistic pride to make you act like a fool.

I love climbing and hiking in these Canadian Rocky Mountains. The adventure is fun, the scenery is wonderful. I love being up there, and I certainly don't get enough.

I know very well that these rocks are dangerous, in many ways. Every outing is an invitation to disaster.

But that's not my goal. My goal is to explore and discover, to manage the adventure and challenge, and to come back another day. To that end, I study safety methods, I practice safe scrambling on choss, and I'm still learning how to lead a trad pitch. I know that I invite danger, and I do what-ever I can manage it, to keep safe.

When folks tell me "you must do this" or "you must not do that", I listen. But the real learning is on the rocks. But anybody who tells me that this guy's opinion is right, or that guy's advice is wrong, pisses me off. Then I wish that everybody would just shut up, and get on with life, and living.

Listen to advice. Think for yourself. Play safe. The fun takes care of itself.

^
These guys are Parks Canada employee's. I've worked with a bunch who are ACMG guides and drag clients around on their time off. You don't need to be a full guide to make the grade but it helps as the competition for the job is rather tough.
Cheers, Andrew

[image]http://photos.motoiq.com/MotoIQ/Industry/industury-motoiq-clean/A1U0759/844876183_Rg9yk-L.jpg[/image]

yaa and if this vids was from another park few hundred miles south of the border, you would STFU and would not say a dam word. go, get out and climb out there and be careful.

What would being from the US have to do with it?

Wow, I've never seen those before!

Per the high angle rescue standards I have been taught, a single point of attachment is sufficient if you are not weighting the system.

Your firm stance is your primary anchor, with the single connection as the backup.

Its not climbing folks, its rescue... different rules apply.

HOWEVER, this was posted under "accident and incident ANALYSIS". And that's what Majid was doing. It's pretty typical to de-brief incidents, whether the final outcome is successful or not. Why? Because mistakes are ALWAYS made.

At the end, we want to improve our skills and give the best care without jeopardizing our own lives.

I've used them and they are as durable as they look but still have a pretty sensitive feel.

... attitude.
... understanding and courtesy
... attributes?

Damn it, I was trying to be sarcastic

Yes

And yes. Also I think this applies across the board to both climbers and rescue professionals.

And Majid, if folks on this board question the validity of what you say, or whether or not it comes from any actual experience or knowledge I believe it is solely because of your attitude. How can we assume you are employed in a field where a modicum of understanding and courtesy is necessary when you don't seem capable of expressing these attributes?
And feel free to post some instructional videos of your team's perfect rescue for our analysis. I'm sure it would be most welcome.

Do not assume anything

I am an armchair troller and this time, I picked up SAR guys.

but especially,

...
Majid is a waste of bandwidth, don't let it bother you.

Majid is a waste of bandwidth, don't let it bother you.

I have a friend who just apply within the last couple of months to Parks Canada. His application was turned down due to him not being a full mountain guide. He now is on the path to become a guide.