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damon_achey


Mar 8, 2011, 6:29 PM
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Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby
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I'm looking to relocate in the next 6-12 months and am just looking for a brainstormed list of cities to consider. Requirements are reasonably large city for employment options, lots of climbing within 1-2 hours away, good length of season to take advantage of it.

Some off the top of my head...

Seattle (currently live here)
pros: 6+ respectable crags within 2 hours
cons: overcast/drizzly 220 days a year

Denver
pros: ?
cons: ?

Phoenix
pros: ?
cons: ?

Where else should I be considering?


marc801


Mar 8, 2011, 6:39 PM
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Re: [damon_achey] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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damon_achey wrote:
I'm looking to relocate in the next 6-12 months and am just looking for a brainstormed list of cities to consider. Requirements are reasonably large city for employment options, lots of climbing within 1-2 hours away, good length of season to take advantage of it.

Some off the top of my head...

Seattle (currently live here)
pros: 6+ respectable crags within 2 hours
cons: overcast/drizzly 220 days a year

Denver
pros: ?
cons: ?

Phoenix
pros: ?
cons: ?

Where else should I be considering?

Two posts since registering 6 years ago? Perhaps you didn't see that obvious search function on every forum page?

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...rch_string=best+city


damon_achey


Mar 8, 2011, 6:46 PM
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I did, but "city" and "cities" returned lots of wrong hits, for some reason adding "best" just didn't didn't occur to me.

Thanks for the tip.


jeffkash


Mar 8, 2011, 6:47 PM
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Los Angeles

I am very biased, but so are 4 million other people who like sun and year round climbing.

http://www.ugcs.caltech.edu/...egory:Sport_Climbing

Today: 70 degrees, sunny
Tomorrow: sunny
And so on....

Con: traffic, cost of living can be high, so you have to look around, usually prices go down as you get further away from centralized LA and thus closer to the crags.

Pros: sick of the sun, go snowboarding - 2 hours away


(This post was edited by jeffkash on Mar 8, 2011, 6:48 PM)


vegastradguy


Mar 8, 2011, 6:50 PM
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Salt Lake City- loads of climbing and skiing right outside of town, if you're willing to drive a couple hours, there's tons more of each. The winter would suck if you dont do winter sports, though.

Vegas, i live here currently, and as far as climbing goes (assuming you dont climb alpine), there probably isnt a better metro area in the western US- 350 days of climbable weather a year (Red Rock/Charleston) with crags within 10 minutes of town. If you're willing to drive 10hrs, the PNW is the only place you cant get to. The problem is the employment- options are limited, but there is stuff out there.

If you wanna go further, Chattanooga/Knoxville are two other pretty awesome places. For sheer rock quantity, Chattanooga is probably where its at. The amount of rock in town is disturbing, and the amount of rock within a couple of hours would consume you and about 30 generations of your offsprings time. The food there is pretty damn tasty too.

I wouldnt go for Phoenix, personally- just not much world class climbing around. Seems like there is stuff around, but nothing of note.


jeffkash


Mar 8, 2011, 6:50 PM
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Just in case it wasn't clear:

http://www.weather.com/weather/tenday/USCA0638


gmggg


Mar 8, 2011, 6:51 PM
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jeffkash wrote:
Los Angeles

I am very biased, but so are 4 million other people who like sun and year round climbing.

http://www.ugcs.caltech.edu/...egory:Sport_Climbing

Today: 70 degrees, sunny
Tomorrow: sunny
And so on....

Con: traffic, cost of living can be high, so you have to look around, usually prices go down as you get further away from centralized LA and thus closer to the crags.

Pros: sick of the sun, go snowboarding - 2 hours away

LA sucks for climbing. Not as bad as that other LA but definitely not one of the top contenders.


petsfed


Mar 8, 2011, 6:56 PM
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damon_achey wrote:
I'm looking to relocate in the next 6-12 months and am just looking for a brainstormed list of cities to consider. Requirements are reasonably large city for employment options, lots of climbing within 1-2 hours away, good length of season to take advantage of it.

Some off the top of my head...

Seattle (currently live here)
pros: 6+ respectable crags within 2 hours
cons: overcast/drizzly 220 days a year

Denver
pros: ?
cons: ?

Phoenix
pros: ?
cons: ?

Where else should I be considering?

Denver's actually really terrible, since the most well known crags have a lot of history, but not a lot of good climbing, at least compared to how long you have to wait in line to get on any given classic. The two best areas, Lumpy Ridge and the South Platte, are both at least an hour from any location in the metro area, but if you can find a home closer to either, you'd do pretty well there. Clear Creek Canyon is nice too, but again, crowded, and the rock is the color of asphalt, so the summers really suck.

Phoenix is the same way, although the summers are much MUCH hotter.

Maybe I'm spoiled with a 20 minute drive to my local crag, but I just cannot be happy in a place where more than an hour is the minimum to get to decent climbing, which is why I only lived in Denver for 8 months before moving back to Wyoming.

It seems like Salt Lake City might be all right, if you're willing to ignore the people there. I'm told SLC is the most medicated city in the US, and its just kind of weird.


jeffkash


Mar 8, 2011, 6:59 PM
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gmggg wrote:
jeffkash wrote:
Los Angeles

I am very biased, but so are 4 million other people who like sun and year round climbing.

http://www.ugcs.caltech.edu/...egory:Sport_Climbing

Today: 70 degrees, sunny
Tomorrow: sunny
And so on....

Con: traffic, cost of living can be high, so you have to look around, usually prices go down as you get further away from centralized LA and thus closer to the crags.

Pros: sick of the sun, go snowboarding - 2 hours away

LA sucks for climbing. Not as bad as that other LA but definitely not one of the top contenders.

Why exactly does it suck for climbing? It puts you in a good central spot to reach Joshua Tree, Malibu Creek, Echo Cliffs, etc...

Care to offer any sort of rationale at all, or are you going to just be like everyone else on RC.com? I am open to hearing what you think, but as of this moment, I am not sure that you do.


dynosore


Mar 8, 2011, 6:59 PM
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jeffkash wrote:
Los Angeles

I am very biased, but so are 4 million other people who like sun and year round climbing.

http://www.ugcs.caltech.edu/...egory:Sport_Climbing

Today: 70 degrees, sunny
Tomorrow: sunny
And so on....

Con: traffic, cost of living can be high, so you have to look around, usually prices go down as you get further away from centralized LA and thus closer to the crags.

Pros: sick of the sun, go snowboarding - 2 hours away

Snowboarding 2 hours away? Where? I've been to LA quite a few times and it takes 2 hours to move 15 miles from the airport......if you work a normal 40 hour week, good luck heading towards the mountians on Friday afternoon in the summers. Same goes for the Bay area. 4 hours to Yosemite, yeah right.


jeffkash


Mar 8, 2011, 7:03 PM
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dynosore wrote:
jeffkash wrote:
Los Angeles

I am very biased, but so are 4 million other people who like sun and year round climbing.

http://www.ugcs.caltech.edu/...egory:Sport_Climbing

Today: 70 degrees, sunny
Tomorrow: sunny
And so on....

Con: traffic, cost of living can be high, so you have to look around, usually prices go down as you get further away from centralized LA and thus closer to the crags.

Pros: sick of the sun, go snowboarding - 2 hours away

Snowboarding 2 hours away? Where? I've been to LA quite a few times and it takes 2 hours to move 15 miles from the airport......if you work a normal 40 hour week, good luck heading towards the mountians on Friday afternoon in the summers. Same goes for the Bay area. 4 hours to Yosemite, yeah right.

True, that maybe is a bit ambitious, I'll adjust to 2.5 hours, but that depends on where in LA you live, and what time you leave. It's called planning ahead. If you leave it 5pm on Friday, you chose to leave at the worst time of the week, but if you leave at 6am on Saturday it is a breeze. Traffic blows, but everyone knows that and you work around it.


(This post was edited by jeffkash on Mar 8, 2011, 7:03 PM)


dynosore


Mar 8, 2011, 7:06 PM
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To answer the OP, I've been to all 50 states and most of the big cities, and I've decided on Colorado Springs. Great weather, tons of sunshine. Garden of Gods and Red Rocks right in the city, mountains right outside it. Shelf Road, Boulder Canyon, Flatirons, RMNP, Rifle, Vedauwoo, 14er's, Black Canyon, all within a weekend trip distance. If I ever get bored of that I'll drive a couple more hours to the Tetons, S. Utah, or the like.


(This post was edited by dynosore on Mar 8, 2011, 7:07 PM)


gmggg


Mar 8, 2011, 7:21 PM
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jeffkash wrote:
gmggg wrote:
jeffkash wrote:
Los Angeles

I am very biased, but so are 4 million other people who like sun and year round climbing.

http://www.ugcs.caltech.edu/...egory:Sport_Climbing

Today: 70 degrees, sunny
Tomorrow: sunny
And so on....

Con: traffic, cost of living can be high, so you have to look around, usually prices go down as you get further away from centralized LA and thus closer to the crags.

Pros: sick of the sun, go snowboarding - 2 hours away

LA sucks for climbing. Not as bad as that other LA but definitely not one of the top contenders.

Why exactly does it suck for climbing? It puts you in a good central spot to reach Joshua Tree, Malibu Creek, Echo Cliffs, etc...

Care to offer any sort of rationale at all, or are you going to just be like everyone else on RC.com? I am open to hearing what you think, but as of this moment, I am not sure that you do.

Sure, for starters you are not close to any decent climbing. You can make a nice day or weekend trip but you can't pop off after work and run up a few pitches on quality rock.

Hence the climbing in LA sucks. Now the climbing in San Bernardino County is pretty stellar but that's a rather large geographical area with only a few places most people would want to/could relocate to.

Add to that the city is pretty bland and the people are horrendous.

There do exist cities with better living experiences and better climbing, thus LA is not one of the top contenders for "best climbing cities".


gmggg


Mar 8, 2011, 7:23 PM
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dynosore wrote:
To answer the OP, I've been to all 50 states and most of the big cities, and I've decided on Colorado Springs. Great weather, tons of sunshine. Garden of Gods and Red Rocks right in the city, mountains right outside it. Shelf Road, Boulder Canyon, Flatirons, RMNP, Rifle, Vedauwoo, 14er's, Black Canyon, all within a weekend trip distance. If I ever get bored of that I'll drive a couple more hours to the Tetons, S. Utah, or the like.

I agree with this and I've got the same credentials to back up the claim. If there happened to be a coast abutting the front range and I could get to the ocean I'd move to the springs tomorrow.


Partner rrrADAM


Mar 8, 2011, 7:24 PM
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dynosore wrote:
jeffkash wrote:
Los Angeles

I am very biased, but so are 4 million other people who like sun and year round climbing.

http://www.ugcs.caltech.edu/...egory:Sport_Climbing

Today: 70 degrees, sunny
Tomorrow: sunny
And so on....

Con: traffic, cost of living can be high, so you have to look around, usually prices go down as you get further away from centralized LA and thus closer to the crags.

Pros: sick of the sun, go snowboarding - 2 hours away

Snowboarding 2 hours away? Where? I've been to LA quite a few times and it takes 2 hours to move 15 miles from the airport......if you work a normal 40 hour week, good luck heading towards the mountians on Friday afternoon in the summers. Same goes for the Bay area. 4 hours to Yosemite, yeah right.

"LA" is pretty big, and isn;t just the city of Los Angeles... I was born and raised in Long Beach (The LBC), and enjoyed year-round climbing, ocean, and skiing all just hours away. J-Tree in just over 2 hours, Tahquitz/Scuicide in about 2, Malibu in just over 2, Bipshop in less than 6, Yosemite/Tuolumne in less than 8, bouldering at The Cove on the beach in Newport in about 30-40 minutes, and a great myriad of other climbing areas, many less than 2 hours away, plus a GREAT music scene, and consistantly good weather.


(This post was edited by rrrADAM on Mar 8, 2011, 7:27 PM)


jeffkash


Mar 8, 2011, 7:26 PM
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gmggg wrote:
jeffkash wrote:
gmggg wrote:
jeffkash wrote:
Los Angeles

I am very biased, but so are 4 million other people who like sun and year round climbing.

http://www.ugcs.caltech.edu/...egory:Sport_Climbing

Today: 70 degrees, sunny
Tomorrow: sunny
And so on....

Con: traffic, cost of living can be high, so you have to look around, usually prices go down as you get further away from centralized LA and thus closer to the crags.

Pros: sick of the sun, go snowboarding - 2 hours away

LA sucks for climbing. Not as bad as that other LA but definitely not one of the top contenders.

Why exactly does it suck for climbing? It puts you in a good central spot to reach Joshua Tree, Malibu Creek, Echo Cliffs, etc...

Care to offer any sort of rationale at all, or are you going to just be like everyone else on RC.com? I am open to hearing what you think, but as of this moment, I am not sure that you do.

Sure, for starters you are not close to any decent climbing. You can make a nice day or weekend trip but you can't pop off after work and run up a few pitches on quality rock.

Hence the climbing in LA sucks. Now the climbing in San Bernardino County is pretty stellar but that's a rather large geographical area with only a few places most people would want to/could relocate to.

Add to that the city is pretty bland and the people are horrendous.

There do exist cities with better living experiences and better climbing, thus LA is not one of the top contenders for "best climbing cities".

Nice to hear you actually back up your opinion, or whatever your first post was.

Sorry to hear that you couldn't find your place in LA. You must have been here for some time though to get to know all 4 million people in order to write them off as horrendous. Unless you were generalizing, but I can't see someone as levelheaded and articulate as you capable of doing something so horrendous.

I think during my 3 hour break between classes tomorrow I will go hit Malibu Creek.

Anyway, this is my last post here.


gmggg


Mar 8, 2011, 7:31 PM
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rrrADAM wrote:
dynosore wrote:
jeffkash wrote:
Los Angeles

I am very biased, but so are 4 million other people who like sun and year round climbing.

http://www.ugcs.caltech.edu/...egory:Sport_Climbing

Today: 70 degrees, sunny
Tomorrow: sunny
And so on....

Con: traffic, cost of living can be high, so you have to look around, usually prices go down as you get further away from centralized LA and thus closer to the crags.

Pros: sick of the sun, go snowboarding - 2 hours away

Snowboarding 2 hours away? Where? I've been to LA quite a few times and it takes 2 hours to move 15 miles from the airport......if you work a normal 40 hour week, good luck heading towards the mountians on Friday afternoon in the summers. Same goes for the Bay area. 4 hours to Yosemite, yeah right.

"LA" is pretty big, and isn;t just the city of Los Angeles... I was born and raised in Long Beach (The LBC), and enjoyed year-round climbing, ocean, and skiing all just hours away. J-Tree in just over 2 hours, Tahquitz/Scuicide in about 2, Malibu in just over 2, Bipshop in less than 6, Yosemite/Tuolumne in less than 8, bouldering at The Cove on the beach in Newport in about 30-40 minutes, and a great myriad of other climbing areas, many less than 2 hours away, plus a GREAT music scene, and consistantly good weather.

Ha! Nice to see pirates cove included in your list.


Partner cracklover


Mar 8, 2011, 7:32 PM
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petsfed wrote:
damon_achey wrote:
I'm looking to relocate in the next 6-12 months and am just looking for a brainstormed list of cities to consider. Requirements are reasonably large city for employment options, lots of climbing within 1-2 hours away, good length of season to take advantage of it.

Some off the top of my head...

Seattle (currently live here)
pros: 6+ respectable crags within 2 hours
cons: overcast/drizzly 220 days a year

Denver
pros: ?
cons: ?

Phoenix
pros: ?
cons: ?

Where else should I be considering?

Denver's actually really terrible, since the most well known crags have a lot of history, but not a lot of good climbing, at least compared to how long you have to wait in line to get on any given classic. The two best areas, Lumpy Ridge and the South Platte, are both at least an hour from any location in the metro area, but if you can find a home closer to either, you'd do pretty well there. Clear Creek Canyon is nice too, but again, crowded, and the rock is the color of asphalt, so the summers really suck.

Phoenix is the same way, although the summers are much MUCH hotter.

Maybe I'm spoiled with a 20 minute drive to my local crag, but I just cannot be happy in a place where more than an hour is the minimum to get to decent climbing, which is why I only lived in Denver for 8 months before moving back to Wyoming.

It seems like Salt Lake City might be all right, if you're willing to ignore the people there. I'm told SLC is the most medicated city in the US, and its just kind of weird.

It's hard to believe you're seriously equating Phoenix with Denver. Have you lived in Denver?

Only SLC clearly beats out Denver/Boulder for the amount, quality, and variety of climbing within a reasonable drive.

There are plenty of places better than Denver for certain specific types of climbing. E.G. it's a crappy place to be for ice climbing. But to me, ice is for drinks.

Anyway, to the OP:

Denver pros:
--------------
Weather
variety of climbing
ease of finding partners/community
quality of climbing
other cultural institutions (otherwise Grand Junction might be better)
decent skiing (if you care)

Denver cons:
---------------
Far from an ocean (if you care)
crowded
Not as much world class climbing within a couple hours as some places

GO


caughtinside


Mar 8, 2011, 7:35 PM
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Out west, the best two are SLC and Vegas. Denver 3rd I suppose.

After that, LA, SF and Phoenix probably roughly equal. I wouldn't say any of those are great climbing towns unless you are willing to drive a fair bit on the weekends, in which case there is tons of great stuff.


gmggg


Mar 8, 2011, 7:35 PM
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jeffkash wrote:
gmggg wrote:
jeffkash wrote:
gmggg wrote:
jeffkash wrote:
Los Angeles

I am very biased, but so are 4 million other people who like sun and year round climbing.

http://www.ugcs.caltech.edu/...egory:Sport_Climbing

Today: 70 degrees, sunny
Tomorrow: sunny
And so on....

Con: traffic, cost of living can be high, so you have to look around, usually prices go down as you get further away from centralized LA and thus closer to the crags.

Pros: sick of the sun, go snowboarding - 2 hours away

LA sucks for climbing. Not as bad as that other LA but definitely not one of the top contenders.

Why exactly does it suck for climbing? It puts you in a good central spot to reach Joshua Tree, Malibu Creek, Echo Cliffs, etc...

Care to offer any sort of rationale at all, or are you going to just be like everyone else on RC.com? I am open to hearing what you think, but as of this moment, I am not sure that you do.

Sure, for starters you are not close to any decent climbing. You can make a nice day or weekend trip but you can't pop off after work and run up a few pitches on quality rock.

Hence the climbing in LA sucks. Now the climbing in San Bernardino County is pretty stellar but that's a rather large geographical area with only a few places most people would want to/could relocate to.

Add to that the city is pretty bland and the people are horrendous.

There do exist cities with better living experiences and better climbing, thus LA is not one of the top contenders for "best climbing cities".

Nice to hear you actually back up your opinion, or whatever your first post was.

Sorry to hear that you couldn't find your place in LA. You must have been here for some time though to get to know all 4 million people in order to write them off as horrendous. Unless you were generalizing, but I can't see someone as levelheaded and articulate as you capable of doing something so horrendous.

I think during my 3 hour break between classes tomorrow I will go hit Malibu Creek.

Anyway, this is my last post here.

Woo, Are you running for Lieutenant mayor?

Have fun at Malibu creek. Don't forget to bring the 70m rope!


gmggg


Mar 8, 2011, 7:37 PM
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caughtinside wrote:
Out west, the best two are SLC and Vegas. Denver 3rd I suppose.

After that, LA, SF and Phoenix probably roughly equal. I wouldn't say any of those are great climbing towns unless you are willing to drive a fair bit on the weekends, in which case there is tons of great stuff.

Vegas is a good city to mention, it doesn't get enough attention in these types of threads.


shockabuku


Mar 8, 2011, 7:44 PM
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If you're looking for decent crags within a couple of hours and more sun, anywhere on the CO front range is pretty good. Your profile doesn't specify sport vs trad vs whatever so it's a little harder to specify.


damon_achey


Mar 8, 2011, 7:58 PM
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shockabuku wrote:
If you're looking for decent crags within a couple of hours and more sun, anywhere on the CO front range is pretty good. Your profile doesn't specify sport vs trad vs whatever so it's a little harder to specify.

Great stuff so far. I've filled out more of my profile now, mostly sport and trad, no ice, very little bouldering.

These recommendations are inline with some threads from years ago (I guess rock and cities are slow to change). I may just have to make a lot or road trips this summer to see some of these places but this really helps with narrowing things down.


marc801


Mar 8, 2011, 8:02 PM
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vegastradguy wrote:
Salt Lake City- loads of climbing and skiing right outside of town, if you're willing to drive a couple hours, there's tons more of each. The winter would suck if you dont do winter sports, though.
Realistically though, winter that prevents climbing is really only about 3 months long. If you're willing to drive the 5 hrs. to the St. George vicinity, you can cut that down to about a month+ or so.


caughtinside


Mar 8, 2011, 8:07 PM
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marc801 wrote:
vegastradguy wrote:
Salt Lake City- loads of climbing and skiing right outside of town, if you're willing to drive a couple hours, there's tons more of each. The winter would suck if you dont do winter sports, though.
Realistically though, winter that prevents climbing is really only about 3 months long. If you're willing to drive the 5 hrs. to the St. George vicinity, you can cut that down to about a month+ or so.

If you lived in a place like SLC, I think you'd be foolish not to at least dabble in some of the winter sports! World class.


Partner camhead


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Re: [marc801] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
damon_achey wrote:
I'm looking to relocate in the next 6-12 months and am just looking for a brainstormed list of cities to consider. Requirements are reasonably large city for employment options, lots of climbing within 1-2 hours away, good length of season to take advantage of it.

Some off the top of my head...

Seattle (currently live here)
pros: 6+ respectable crags within 2 hours
cons: overcast/drizzly 220 days a year

Denver
pros: ?
cons: ?

Phoenix
pros: ?
cons: ?

Where else should I be considering?

Two posts since registering 6 years ago? Perhaps you didn't see that obvious search function on every forum page?

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...rch_string=best+city

We've established time and time again that the search feature on this site sucks major ass, so we can't fault people for not using it.


marc801


Mar 8, 2011, 8:26 PM
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Re: [caughtinside] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
If you lived in a place like SLC, I think you'd be foolish not to at least dabble in some of the winter sports! World class.
In the spirit of full disclosure...since moving here 10 years ago, I put in far more ski days than climbing days each year. Admittedly it may have something to do with getting old and decrepit after climbing for 39 years. (Yep, when I started, 5.11 didn't exist yet. Sure, there were 5.11 climbs, but we didn't know that. Explains backing off of so many 5.9+ routes!)


petsfed


Mar 8, 2011, 8:39 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
It's hard to believe you're seriously equating Phoenix with Denver. Have you lived in Denver?

Naw, I stayed in Broomfield for 6 years, learned to climb with Rossiter's Falcon guides tucked into my rucksak, graduated from high school there, come back every thanksgiving and christmas, and a litany of minor holidays, attendings Arapahoe Community College in Littleton, and worked at Rock'n & Jam'n for a few months. I've never lived inside Denver city limits though.

My point was that the classics-to-climbers ratio in both cities is about the same, its just that Denver has WAAAAY more mediocre to lousy climbing than Phoenix does, and the climbing season isn't year round in Phoenix. Denver is supposedly a great climber town mostly because you have access to a lot of different climbing, but in the 8 months I spent in the Denver area last year (which I mentioned in my previous post), the only major front range areas I didn't visit were the South Platte and the Golden Cliffs. The problem is everybody has this ridiculous hard on for Eldo and Boulder Canyon, and most of the climbing in either is bad. There are definitely some world-class routes in both, but the only time I didn't have to wait in line to do classic in Eldo was a tuesday last may when I got there at 6am. To do Gambit (which is way overrated, by the way).


gosharks


Mar 8, 2011, 9:28 PM
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Re: [dynosore] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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dynosore wrote:
Snowboarding 2 hours away? Where? I've been to LA quite a few times and it takes 2 hours to move 15 miles from the airport......if you work a normal 40 hour week, good luck heading towards the mountians on Friday afternoon in the summers. Same goes for the Bay area. 4 hours to Yosemite, yeah right.
I can easily get to Yosemite in 4 hours from San Jose on a Friday night. Just leave after dinner.


malieka


Mar 8, 2011, 11:16 PM
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Re: [damon_achey] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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I'm often surprised that Reno/Sparks isn't mentioned in conversations of this type. While the economy here isn't exactly booming, the greater metropolitan area has a population of about 500,00 along with the amenities/industry variety expected with a city of that size.

Reno is close to so much quality rock it would be silly to name it all. But a sampling....
Donner - 45 min
Eagle Lakes - 1.5 hr
Woodfords - 1.5 hr
Leap,Spires,Loaf - 2ish hr
Tuolumne - 3.5 hr
Rock Creek - 4 hr
Bishop/Gorge - 4ish hr

Granted, Reno is similar to SLC in that much of the rock is under snow for part of the year. But like SLC, these areas also offer world class winter sports opportunities. Plus, climbing can be found nearly year round within a 5 hour drive.


TheBishop


Mar 8, 2011, 11:17 PM
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I have not heard it mentioned much on this site, but Nashville is actually a pretty good climbing city.

Pros: fairly quick access to all the great climbing in east Tennessee: Obed, Foster Falls, T-Wall, and many others. Close to King's Bluff. Not too far from Red River either. And Arkansas climbing is not too insanely far away for weekend trips. Good weather, long climbing season, can climb through the winter if you don't mind a bit of cold.

Cons: Only King's Bluff is within that 1-2 hour drive. From downtown Nashville it's about 45 minutes. East Tenn climbing is about 3 hours, RRG about 4.

I would suggest Chattanooga, but you said major city.


Partner camhead


Mar 8, 2011, 11:27 PM
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TheBishop wrote:
I have not heard it mentioned much on this site, but Nashville is actually a pretty good climbing city.

Pros: fairly quick access to all the great climbing in east Tennessee: Obed, Foster Falls, T-Wall, and many others. Close to King's Bluff. Not too far from Red River either. And Arkansas climbing is not too insanely far away for weekend trips. Good weather, long climbing season, can climb through the winter if you don't mind a bit of cold.

Cons: Only King's Bluff is within that 1-2 hour drive. From downtown Nashville it's about 45 minutes. East Tenn climbing is about 3 hours, RRG about 4.

I would suggest Chattanooga, but you said major city.

I suppose that if everyone is mentioning "passable" climbing cities that are big, such as Nashville, Phoenix, etc., we would have to include Atlanta, GA, as well. Within 2-3 hours of a lot of really good Southeastern Rock, local bouldering at Boatrock. I'm sure summers would suck, though.


damon_achey


Mar 8, 2011, 11:41 PM
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Re: [camhead] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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Have to have a fair amount of climbing in the 1-2 hours range max. I don't mind the occasional longer trip, but 3+ hours travel time is a long day or an entire weekend.


TheBishop


Mar 8, 2011, 11:56 PM
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camhead wrote:
TheBishop wrote:
I have not heard it mentioned much on this site, but Nashville is actually a pretty good climbing city.

Pros: fairly quick access to all the great climbing in east Tennessee: Obed, Foster Falls, T-Wall, and many others. Close to King's Bluff. Not too far from Red River either. And Arkansas climbing is not too insanely far away for weekend trips. Good weather, long climbing season, can climb through the winter if you don't mind a bit of cold.

Cons: Only King's Bluff is within that 1-2 hour drive. From downtown Nashville it's about 45 minutes. East Tenn climbing is about 3 hours, RRG about 4.

I would suggest Chattanooga, but you said major city.

I suppose that if everyone is mentioning "passable" climbing cities that are big, such as Nashville, Phoenix, etc., we would have to include Atlanta, GA, as well. Within 2-3 hours of a lot of really good Southeastern Rock, local bouldering at Boatrock. I'm sure summers would suck, though.

Just curious, but what exactly makes Nashville only "passable?"


skiclimb


Mar 9, 2011, 12:25 AM
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Re: [malieka] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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malieka wrote:
I'm often surprised that Reno/Sparks isn't mentioned in conversations of this type. While the economy here isn't exactly booming, the greater metropolitan area has a population of about 500,00 along with the amenities/industry variety expected with a city of that size.

Reno is close to so much quality rock it would be silly to name it all. But a sampling....
Donner - 45 min
Eagle Lakes - 1.5 hr
Woodfords - 1.5 hr
Leap,Spires,Loaf - 2ish hr
Tuolumne - 3.5 hr
Rock Creek - 4 hr
Bishop/Gorge - 4ish hr

Granted, Reno is similar to SLC in that much of the rock is under snow for part of the year. But like SLC, these areas also offer world class winter sports opportunities. Plus, climbing can be found nearly year round within a 5 hour drive.

Ditto .. find a better decent sized place closer to Yosemite?


malieka


Mar 9, 2011, 12:41 AM
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skiclimb wrote:
malieka wrote:
I'm often surprised that Reno/Sparks isn't mentioned in conversations of this type. While the economy here isn't exactly booming, the greater metropolitan area has a population of about 500,00 along with the amenities/industry variety expected with a city of that size.

Reno is close to so much quality rock it would be silly to name it all. But a sampling....
Donner - 45 min
Eagle Lakes - 1.5 hr
Woodfords - 1.5 hr
Leap,Spires,Loaf - 2ish hr
Tuolumne - 3.5 hr
Rock Creek - 4 hr
Bishop/Gorge - 4ish hr

Granted, Reno is similar to SLC in that much of the rock is under snow for part of the year. But like SLC, these areas also offer world class winter sports opportunities. Plus, climbing can be found nearly year round within a 5 hour drive.

Ditto .. find a better decent sized place closer to Yosemite?

Right!! Not to mention, even with a FT job it's possible to bag a High Sierra route per week at least 1/3 of the year.


marc801


Mar 9, 2011, 1:10 AM
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Re: [damon_achey] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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damon_achey wrote:
Have to have a fair amount of climbing in the 1-2 hours range max. I don't mind the occasional longer trip, but 3+ hours travel time is a long day or an entire weekend.
Remember that John Stannard lived in Silver Springs MD and made the 5.5 hr trip to the Gunks every weekend during the climbing season for 20 years or so.


damon_achey


Mar 9, 2011, 1:20 AM
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And no doubt he's a bad ass, but I don't have that kind of patience and would wind up in jail for some sort of road rage incident if I tried that.


nkane


Mar 9, 2011, 2:00 AM
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Can we get a little more love for Seattle?

Index within an hour, decent sport climbing at x 38/32 even closer, and some of the best alpine climbing in the country. Squamish is also within striking distance, not to mention choss mountaineering in the Olympics.

Sure it's a little wet in the winter, but you can go to Smith, Vantage, Tieton or the other east side areas. And Leavenworth stays dry many days when the west side is wet.

Plus, it's a full-sized, large American city with a somewhat-functioning economy.

I also vote for Portland, but you have to drive a little farther to get into the North Cascades.


damon_achey


Mar 9, 2011, 2:26 AM
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Sorry, already live here and gave that more as an example. Looking to move else-ware.


shockabuku


Mar 9, 2011, 2:39 AM
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Pretty much all of the front range is good for sport, trad, and bouldering, Colorado Springs has Shelf Road for sport pretty close by, Garden of the Gods almost in town, South Platte just to name some more popular things. Also a pretty good gym now with the (relatively) new City Rock gym. It's also decent size so job prospects are probably at least mediocre.

Denver is biggest, so more economical options. Provides easy access to I-70 when you want to go west. The Golden areas (Clear Creek and Table Mountain are right there), the Rock'n and Jammin gyms are pretty decent for sport climbing, mediocre for bouldering. It's also pretty much in the middle of the front range cllimbing from a north/south perspective so the Boulder area is within an hour and Colorado Springs is maybe 1.5 hrs.

Boulder is Boulder. All roads lead there, blah, blah, blah. But it's sort of true. No destination sport area but Eldo provides good trad climbing and Lumpy Ridge is only an hour or so away. Boulder Canyon, the Flat Irons, and lots of other "local" areas provide other good options. Lots of gyms. Economy is pretty good but I think the competition for skilled labor jobs is pretty strong.

Loveland is the suicide capital of Colorado - don't go there.

Fort Collins is pretty vanilla but a nice place to live if you're not looking for anything too off the wall. Economy has remained decent though it's a smaller "city". St. Vrain canyon and some other smaller areas around within about an hour, as well as Boulder is really only about an hour away. Two gyms in town.


Partner cracklover


Mar 9, 2011, 2:39 AM
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caughtinside wrote:
Out west, the best two are SLC and Vegas. Denver 3rd I suppose.

After that, LA, SF and Phoenix probably roughly equal. I wouldn't say any of those are great climbing towns unless you are willing to drive a fair bit on the weekends, in which case there is tons of great stuff.

I'd agree with your top three. I'd say SLC, Vegas, and Denver in that order.

GO


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Mar 9, 2011, 3:02 AM
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petsfed wrote:
cracklover wrote:
It's hard to believe you're seriously equating Phoenix with Denver. Have you lived in Denver?

Naw, I stayed in Broomfield for 6 years, learned to climb with Rossiter's Falcon guides tucked into my rucksak, graduated from high school there, come back every thanksgiving and christmas, and a litany of minor holidays, attendings Arapahoe Community College in Littleton, and worked at Rock'n & Jam'n for a few months. I've never lived inside Denver city limits though.

My point was that the classics-to-climbers ratio in both cities is about the same, its just that Denver has WAAAAY more mediocre to lousy climbing than Phoenix does, and the climbing season isn't year round in Phoenix. Denver is supposedly a great climber town mostly because you have access to a lot of different climbing, but in the 8 months I spent in the Denver area last year (which I mentioned in my previous post), the only major front range areas I didn't visit were the South Platte and the Golden Cliffs. The problem is everybody has this ridiculous hard on for Eldo and Boulder Canyon, and most of the climbing in either is bad. There are definitely some world-class routes in both, but the only time I didn't have to wait in line to do classic in Eldo was a tuesday last may when I got there at 6am. To do Gambit (which is way overrated, by the way).

Okay, your creds are way better than mine on the whole knowing the Denver scene, so I should just shut up now I guess.

The only thing I'd add is that IME, Eldo really is pretty mediocre up through 5.9. Once you get into the mid 5.10 range and up though, wow. I've only started to scratch the surface, but, for example, in one small area you have Climb Of The Century, Center Route, Handcrack, Pony Express, Rincon, just to name a few. All absolutely five star routes.

So there's a lot of fantastic climbing in Eldo. Some of it just comes with a kinda steep entrance exam.

I do agree with you though that Boulder Canyon is overrated.

GO


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Mar 9, 2011, 3:42 AM
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TheBishop wrote:
camhead wrote:
TheBishop wrote:
I have not heard it mentioned much on this site, but Nashville is actually a pretty good climbing city.

Pros: fairly quick access to all the great climbing in east Tennessee: Obed, Foster Falls, T-Wall, and many others. Close to King's Bluff. Not too far from Red River either. And Arkansas climbing is not too insanely far away for weekend trips. Good weather, long climbing season, can climb through the winter if you don't mind a bit of cold.

Cons: Only King's Bluff is within that 1-2 hour drive. From downtown Nashville it's about 45 minutes. East Tenn climbing is about 3 hours, RRG about 4.

I would suggest Chattanooga, but you said major city.

I suppose that if everyone is mentioning "passable" climbing cities that are big, such as Nashville, Phoenix, etc., we would have to include Atlanta, GA, as well. Within 2-3 hours of a lot of really good Southeastern Rock, local bouldering at Boatrock. I'm sure summers would suck, though.

Just curious, but what exactly makes Nashville only "passable?"

Not really year round climbing, no opportunities for after-work burns on your project. Nashville and Atlanta would be about equal in climbing city quality. Solid B-.


petsfed


Mar 9, 2011, 5:14 AM
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cracklover wrote:
petsfed wrote:
cracklover wrote:
It's hard to believe you're seriously equating Phoenix with Denver. Have you lived in Denver?

Naw, I stayed in Broomfield for 6 years, learned to climb with Rossiter's Falcon guides tucked into my rucksak, graduated from high school there, come back every thanksgiving and christmas, and a litany of minor holidays, attendings Arapahoe Community College in Littleton, and worked at Rock'n & Jam'n for a few months. I've never lived inside Denver city limits though.

My point was that the classics-to-climbers ratio in both cities is about the same, its just that Denver has WAAAAY more mediocre to lousy climbing than Phoenix does, and the climbing season isn't year round in Phoenix. Denver is supposedly a great climber town mostly because you have access to a lot of different climbing, but in the 8 months I spent in the Denver area last year (which I mentioned in my previous post), the only major front range areas I didn't visit were the South Platte and the Golden Cliffs. The problem is everybody has this ridiculous hard on for Eldo and Boulder Canyon, and most of the climbing in either is bad. There are definitely some world-class routes in both, but the only time I didn't have to wait in line to do classic in Eldo was a tuesday last may when I got there at 6am. To do Gambit (which is way overrated, by the way).

Okay, your creds are way better than mine on the whole knowing the Denver scene, so I should just shut up now I guess.

The only thing I'd add is that IME, Eldo really is pretty mediocre up through 5.9. Once you get into the mid 5.10 range and up though, wow. I've only started to scratch the surface, but, for example, in one small area you have Climb Of The Century, Center Route, Handcrack, Pony Express, Rincon, just to name a few. All absolutely five star routes.

So there's a lot of fantastic climbing in Eldo. Some of it just comes with a kinda steep entrance exam.

I do agree with you though that Boulder Canyon is overrated.

GO

I just get tired of everybody saying "Best Climber Town!" when really, you have to either tolerate a lot of bad rock, a lot of crowds, that steep entrance exam, or a long drive away from the area to really get the most out of the Denver area. To me, that adds up to kind of a mediocre climber town. The argument in Denver seems to be that five 2s is as good as one 10. That's not how I approach dating either.

You specifically asked if I had lived in Denver, so you kind of set yourself up for that one.

All of this blathering aside, I think I over-reached quite a bit when I said it was terrible. To my mind, a good city for climbers requires at least one road-trip-worthy (that is, nation- or world-class) destination that a person could conceivably hit after work, and enough decent crags within similar range that crowds can be avoided. And Denver just doesn't have any crags that are worth road tripping for.


enigma


Mar 9, 2011, 8:02 AM
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malieka wrote:
I'm often surprised that Reno/Sparks isn't mentioned in conversations of this type. While the economy here isn't exactly booming, the greater metropolitan area has a population of about 500,00 along with the amenities/industry variety expected with a city of that size.

Reno is close to so much quality rock it would be silly to name it all. But a sampling....
Donner - 45 min
Eagle Lakes - 1.5 hr
Woodfords - 1.5 hr
Leap,Spires,Loaf - 2ish hr
Tuolumne - 3.5 hr
Rock Creek - 4 hr
Bishop/Gorge - 4ish hr

Granted, Reno is similar to SLC in that much of the rock is under snow for part of the year. But like SLC, these areas also offer world class winter sports opportunities. Plus, climbing can be found nearly year round within a 5 hour drive.


Since I am from the east coast and so are you, I will give you the skinny.
People in Northern California are quite different from Southern California and I don't know what you do for a living so it would also make huge difference.
Vegas- Red Rocks is a great climbing area, and is year round. Bishop is a great area to climb as well. Lovers Leap and Donner Summit are worthwhile.
If you could work and live near Yosemite and Tuolumne Meadows, there are alot of good people and obviously that would be a number one choice.
I believe Colorado has the best economy and most job opportunities at the present.
Tuscon Ariz has Mt. Lemmon which is a very good climbing area as well.
Utah has quite a large amount of climbing.
I also believe you should take a road trip and see for yourself.


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Mar 9, 2011, 12:02 PM
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Raises hand for Tuscon.


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Re: [damon_achey] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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OP - what sort of employment are you looking for? Pick up carpentry? IT? Medical field??? Those things do make a difference.


My take on Major City Life/Climbing? The two don't really mix.

My prescription for medicating the condition? Find the city, if you must reside in one, that offers what you are looking for IN A CITY.One of those things must be an airport with lots of nonstop flights to other places.

MOST places are not year-round good climbing. Do work that allows you freedom to utilize the airport's primary purpose - get the hell out of dodge!

But otherwise....what your life is life defines which sort of city is best for you, if a city it must be.


And since nobody has mentioned NYC, I will. It is actually quite easy to get to the Gunks. There is even a bus that takes you right to New Paltz which runs several times every day. You can use ZipCar or rent a car as needed, and use mass transit for about town going's. The Gunks season caaaaaan be stretched from (imo) late March through late November. I did it for 5 years, supplementing the season with 2 weeks in Jtree at the start/end of each season, and a week in Yosemite for the Facelift. The airports are easy to get to and go pretty much anywhere there is, in country and worldwide.


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Mar 9, 2011, 4:59 PM
Post #49 of 99 (3637 views)
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Re: [petsfed] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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petsfed wrote:
You specifically asked if I had lived in Denver, so you kind of set yourself up for that one.

I asked because I wanted to know. You answered. I appreciate that. I'm still surprised though.

In reply to:
All of this blathering aside, I think I over-reached quite a bit when I said it was terrible. To my mind, a good city for climbers requires at least one road-trip-worthy (that is, nation- or world-class) destination that a person could conceivably hit after work, and enough decent crags within similar range that crowds can be avoided. And Denver just doesn't have any crags that are worth road tripping for.

Well if that is your criterion, then the only place that qualifies is Vegas. But I think it's a terribly narrow definition. If you are a solid 5.10- climber who can get up 5.11 on a good day (which really isn't saying that much) I would put Eldo up against anything in the immediate Salt Lake area. It's certainly as good or better than Little or Big Cottonwood.

And the fact that you can do an easy day trip to anywhere in the South Platte, Shelf Road, RMNP/Lumpy, Garden of the Gods, just to name a few excellent locations, and a weekend trip to Rifle, anywhere on the western slope, Black Canyon, Utah desert, and Wyoming, makes it really centrally located to a variety of truly world-class destinations. Plus, lots of reasonably decent rock around to practice on right in your backyard.

For me, the variety more than makes up for the fact that the world-class destinations are a reasonable drive away, rather than in my back yard. That, and I would never want to live in Vegas.

All that being said, I'd still put SLC a little higher on the list. Again, for the variety.

GO


damon_achey


Mar 9, 2011, 5:10 PM
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Re: [happiegrrrl] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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I'm in software development and confident I can find adequate employment anywhere there are reasonably sized companies. NY is out as I used to live in eastern PA and though the climbing season is better (more predictable for sure) than in Seattle, I'm looking for better than that.


justroberto


Mar 9, 2011, 8:23 PM
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Re: [TheBishop] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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TheBishop wrote:
camhead wrote:
TheBishop wrote:
I have not heard it mentioned much on this site, but Nashville is actually a pretty good climbing city.

Pros: fairly quick access to all the great climbing in east Tennessee: Obed, Foster Falls, T-Wall, and many others. Close to King's Bluff. Not too far from Red River either. And Arkansas climbing is not too insanely far away for weekend trips. Good weather, long climbing season, can climb through the winter if you don't mind a bit of cold.

Cons: Only King's Bluff is within that 1-2 hour drive. From downtown Nashville it's about 45 minutes. East Tenn climbing is about 3 hours, RRG about 4.

I would suggest Chattanooga, but you said major city.

I suppose that if everyone is mentioning "passable" climbing cities that are big, such as Nashville, Phoenix, etc., we would have to include Atlanta, GA, as well. Within 2-3 hours of a lot of really good Southeastern Rock, local bouldering at Boatrock. I'm sure summers would suck, though.

Just curious, but what exactly makes Nashville only "passable?"
Nashville is a great city city, but having to drive 2 hours to get to good climbing blows if you're specifically looking for a climbing city.

Atlanta blows on all fronts, imo, unless living in one of the shittiest cities in America is your cup of tea. I'd much rather be in Nashville (or even Birmingham, for that matter).


shockabuku


Mar 9, 2011, 9:09 PM
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Re: [justroberto] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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Atlanta does, I think, have the biggest route climbing gym in the country.


yves


Mar 9, 2011, 9:40 PM
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Re: [happiegrrrl] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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I totally second NYC which has high quality ice-climbing (still "climbing") and pretty good skis if you are willing to take a break from all that ice and rock ...


sandstoned


Mar 9, 2011, 9:53 PM
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Re: [shockabuku] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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shockabuku wrote:
Atlanta does, I think, have the biggest route climbing gym in the country.

Well holy shit, that changes everything!

I thought I would jump in here since I am looking to relocate as well. I have friends in NM that swear I am missing out down there, in the Santa Fe region. Anyone have knowledge of that area they care to share? And to the other people following this topic that are considering a move, I will cue you in on what I consider to be one of my best sources of information for road tripping and relocating: "Rock and Road" by Tim Toula. While not perfect, this book has almost all significant areas in North America listed, the amount of climbing, and a short description of each, as well as the length of the season. And while I know that this place will not compare with places out west, what are some opinions on Fayetteville/Charleston area in WV? Not my first choice, but it is closer to my family and I have been considering adding it to my list of possibilities.


gosharks


Mar 9, 2011, 9:53 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
If you are a solid 5.10- climber who can get up 5.11 on a good day (which really isn't saying that much) I would put Eldo up against anything in the immediate Salt Lake area. It's certainly as good or better than Little or Big Cottonwood.
What about American Fork?


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Mar 9, 2011, 10:11 PM
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Re: [sandstoned] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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sandstoned wrote:
And while I know that this place will not compare with places out west, what are some opinions on Fayetteville/Charleston area in WV? Not my first choice, but it is closer to my family and I have been considering adding it to my list of possibilities.

Charleston (the only thing I would really call a city in WV) would be pretty nice for climbing. The NRG is definitely a destination crag, and it's about an hour away (in other words, about like downtown Denver to Eldo); definitely do-able for day trips. RRG is less than 3 hrs., all the great NC crags are 3-4 hours.

The only thing Charleston has lacking is a local crag suitable for after-work jaunts. A friend of mine is even in the process of building the city's first climbing gym there.


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Mar 9, 2011, 10:13 PM
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Re: [gosharks] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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gosharks wrote:
cracklover wrote:
If you are a solid 5.10- climber who can get up 5.11 on a good day (which really isn't saying that much) I would put Eldo up against anything in the immediate Salt Lake area. It's certainly as good or better than Little or Big Cottonwood.
What about American Fork?

I haven't climbed there. I'm not sure of your question. Are you saying it changes the equation and makes the Salt Lake area more of a world-class destination?

GO


marc801


Mar 9, 2011, 10:23 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
gosharks wrote:
cracklover wrote:
If you are a solid 5.10- climber who can get up 5.11 on a good day (which really isn't saying that much) I would put Eldo up against anything in the immediate Salt Lake area. It's certainly as good or better than Little or Big Cottonwood.
What about American Fork?

I haven't climbed there. I'm not sure of your question. Are you saying it changes the equation and makes the Salt Lake area more of a world-class destination?

Local to SLC:
Big CC
Little CC
American Fork
Various summer alpine routes of various lengths between 7K' - 11K' elevation

Within 2 hrs:
High Uintas
Maple Canyon
Ibex
Joe's Valley
Logan Canyon

Within 3 - 4 hrs:
Moab
City of Rocks & Castle Rock
Indian Creek
Some new areas in eastern NV
Areas outside Beaver and Cedar City

Within 5-6 hrs:
Zion
Tetons
St. George
Red Rocks NV
Virgin River Gorge
Areas in the Arizona Strip
Telluride/Ophir and environs
Black Canyon
Additional Idaho areas


justroberto


Mar 9, 2011, 10:26 PM
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Re: [camhead] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
sandstoned wrote:
And while I know that this place will not compare with places out west, what are some opinions on Fayetteville/Charleston area in WV? Not my first choice, but it is closer to my family and I have been considering adding it to my list of possibilities.

Charleston (the only thing I would really call a city in WV) would be pretty nice for climbing. The NRG is definitely a destination crag, and it's about an hour away (in other words, about like downtown Denver to Eldo); definitely do-able for day trips. RRG is less than 3 hrs., all the great NC crags are 3-4 hours.

The only thing Charleston has lacking is a local crag suitable for after-work jaunts. A friend of mine is even in the process of building the city's first climbing gym there.
I'm sure if you looked hard enough and were discrete enough, you'd have no problem finding some decent rock around Charleston.


gosharks


Mar 9, 2011, 10:39 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
gosharks wrote:
cracklover wrote:
If you are a solid 5.10- climber who can get up 5.11 on a good day (which really isn't saying that much) I would put Eldo up against anything in the immediate Salt Lake area. It's certainly as good or better than Little or Big Cottonwood.
What about American Fork?

I haven't climbed there. I'm not sure of your question. Are you saying it changes the equation and makes the Salt Lake area more of a world-class destination?

GO
IMO, for sport climbing, American Fork >> LCC+BCC.

So, yes.


(This post was edited by gosharks on Mar 9, 2011, 10:41 PM)


Partner cracklover


Mar 9, 2011, 10:49 PM
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Re: [marc801] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
gosharks wrote:
cracklover wrote:
If you are a solid 5.10- climber who can get up 5.11 on a good day (which really isn't saying that much) I would put Eldo up against anything in the immediate Salt Lake area. It's certainly as good or better than Little or Big Cottonwood.
What about American Fork?

I haven't climbed there. I'm not sure of your question. Are you saying it changes the equation and makes the Salt Lake area more of a world-class destination?

Local to SLC:
Big CC
Little CC
American Fork
Various summer alpine routes of various lengths between 7K' - 11K' elevation

Within 2 hrs:
High Uintas
Maple Canyon
Ibex
Joe's Valley
Logan Canyon

Within 3 - 4 hrs:
Moab
City of Rocks & Castle Rock
Indian Creek
Some new areas in eastern NV
Areas outside Beaver and Cedar City

Within 5-6 hrs:
Zion
Tetons
St. George
Red Rocks NV
Virgin River Gorge
Areas in the Arizona Strip
Telluride/Ophir and environs
Black Canyon
Additional Idaho areas

Don't misunderstand me - I'm not suggesting that Denver is a better city to live in as a climber than Salt Lake. On the contrary, IMO, Salt Lake is the clear winner over any other major city.

I was referring to the specific argument being made about Denver not having any world-class climbing in its back yard. I'm not going to rehash that whole argument though.

GO


caughtinside


Mar 9, 2011, 10:59 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
marc801 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
gosharks wrote:
cracklover wrote:
If you are a solid 5.10- climber who can get up 5.11 on a good day (which really isn't saying that much) I would put Eldo up against anything in the immediate Salt Lake area. It's certainly as good or better than Little or Big Cottonwood.
What about American Fork?

I haven't climbed there. I'm not sure of your question. Are you saying it changes the equation and makes the Salt Lake area more of a world-class destination?

Local to SLC:
Big CC
Little CC
American Fork
Various summer alpine routes of various lengths between 7K' - 11K' elevation

Within 2 hrs:
High Uintas
Maple Canyon
Ibex
Joe's Valley
Logan Canyon

Within 3 - 4 hrs:
Moab
City of Rocks & Castle Rock
Indian Creek
Some new areas in eastern NV
Areas outside Beaver and Cedar City

Within 5-6 hrs:
Zion
Tetons
St. George
Red Rocks NV
Virgin River Gorge
Areas in the Arizona Strip
Telluride/Ophir and environs
Black Canyon
Additional Idaho areas

Don't misunderstand me - I'm not suggesting that Denver is a better city to live in as a climber than Salt Lake. On the contrary, IMO, Salt Lake is the clear winner over any other major city.

I was referring to the specific argument being made about Denver not having any world-class climbing in its back yard. I'm not going to rehash that whole argument though.

GO

Would eldo receive a quarter of the traffic if it was a 2 hour drive? I'm on the fence about that one.


Partner camhead


Mar 9, 2011, 11:01 PM
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Re: [damon_achey] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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Ok, I'm putting together a list of decent climbing cities that are core metropolitan areas (so, no Flagstaff or Chattanooga, though those places would take the gold medal no problem).

Using the criteria of three tiers of climbing: LOCAL (within or right outside city limits, less than an hour away), DAY TRIP (within 3 hours drive), and WEEKEND (within 6-8 hours). I've starred areas I think are nationally renowned destinations.

No particular order. Feel free to criticize/add to it.

LAS VEGAS, NV
Local: Red Rocks*
Day Trip: Virgin River Gorge*, Mt. Charleston
Weekend: Jtree*, Zion*

LOS ANGELES, CA (though from what I've heard about drive time, some of the local areas might not work that well)
Local: Malibu Creek, Tick Rock, Stony Point
Day Trip: Taquitz/Suicide, Jtree*,
Weekend: Yosemite*, Needles*

SEATTLE, WA
Local: -
Day Trip: Index, Leavenworth, Vantage
Weekend: Squamish*, Smith Rock*

RENO, NV
Local:-
Day Trip: Lover's Leap, Donner
Weekend: Bishop*, Yosemite*

SALT LAKE CITY:
Local: Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons
Day Trip: Maple Canyon*, Uintas, American Fork Canyon
Weekend: City of Rocks*, Tetons*, Ibex, Joe's Valley, Red Rocks*, Indian Creek*, Zion*

DENVER, CO
Local: ?
Day Trip: shit-ton of stuff, none gets a star though
Weekend: Moab/Indian Creek*, Rifle*, Vedauvoo*, Black Canyon*

ALBUQUERQUE, NM
Local: Sandias?
Day Trip: Enchanted Tower
Weekend: Hueco Tanks*, Shelf Road, Indian Creek*

PHOENIX, AZ:
Local: -
Day Trip: Queen Creek, Homestead, Cochise Stronghold, Paradise Forks, Sedona, Priest Draw
Weekend: Red Rocks*, Jtree*, Hueco*, Indian Creek*

AUSTIN, TX:
Local: Green Belt, McKinney Falls, many others
Day Trip: Reimer's Ranch, Enchanted Rock
Weekend: Potrero Chico*, Wichitas, Continental Ranch

NASHVILLE, TN:
Local: -
Day Trip: T-wall*, Obed
Weekend: RRG*, NRG*, HP40, various NC crags

CHARLESTON, WV:
Local: -
Day Trip: New River Gorge*
Weekend: RRG*, NC, Seneca, Coopers Rock, T-wall*, HP40

ATLANTA, GA:
Local: Boatrock
Day Trip: T-wall*, Rocktown
Weekend: HP40, RRG*, NRG*, NC

WASHINGTON DC:
local: -
day trip: Carderock, Old Rag
Weekend: NRG*, NC, Seneca

CINCINATTI, OH
local: -
Day Trip: RRG*
Weekend: NRG*, T-wall*, NC, Obed

NEW YORK CITY:
Local: Rat Rock!
Day Trip: Gunks*
Weekend: Seneca, Rumney, Cathedral

That's about all I can think of off the top of my head, time to get off the computer. Someone should make a spreadsheet of these.

What about Chicago, Boston, Boise, Madison, Twin Cities?


gosharks


Mar 9, 2011, 11:12 PM
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camhead wrote:
SALT LAKE CITY:
Local: Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons
Day Trip: Maple Canyon*, Uintas, American Fork Canyon
Weekend: City of Rocks*, Tetons*, Ibex, Joe's Valley, Red Rocks*, Indian Creek*, Zion*
American Fork is local. I've hit it too many times as an after-work (leaving at 4) climb for it to be counted otherwise. I worked at the north-east end of SLC.


(This post was edited by gosharks on Mar 9, 2011, 11:13 PM)


Partner happiegrrrl


Mar 9, 2011, 11:18 PM
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Re: [camhead] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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In reply to:
NEW YORK CITY:
Local: Rat Rock!
Day Trip: Gunks*
Weekend: Seneca, Rumney, Cathedral

Don't forget the Daks for weekends. And if you include the airport option....pretty much every other crag you listed in the entire post(kidding, of course, but one CAN go to Red Rock, for example) on a long weekend.

But I know the OP says that he wants(it seems) very close by climbing, pretty much year round.


vegastradguy


Mar 9, 2011, 11:22 PM
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camhead wrote:

LAS VEGAS, NV
Local: Red Rocks*
Day Trip: Virgin River Gorge*, Mt. Charleston
Weekend: Jtree*, Zion*

More like:

Local: Red Rock, Mt. Charleston (its only about 40mins away), Keyhole Canyon (30mins).
Day Trip: VRG, St. George, Zion, JTree, Arrow Canyon, Paradise Forks.
Weekend: Taquhitz, LA Area in general, Bishop, Yosemite, Tuolomne, Needles, Sierra in general, SLC area, Moab, IC, Tucson area, Flagstaff area.

its kind of ridiculous the amount of rock that is floating around within 8hrs of vegas.


Partner camhead


Mar 9, 2011, 11:39 PM
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vegastradguy wrote:
camhead wrote:

LAS VEGAS, NV
Local: Red Rocks*
Day Trip: Virgin River Gorge*, Mt. Charleston
Weekend: Jtree*, Zion*

More like:

Local: Red Rock, Mt. Charleston (its only about 40mins away), Keyhole Canyon (30mins).
Day Trip: VRG, St. George, Zion, JTree, Arrow Canyon, Paradise Forks.
Weekend: Taquhitz, LA Area in general, Bishop, Yosemite, Tuolomne, Needles, Sierra in general, SLC area, Moab, IC, Tucson area, Flagstaff area.

its kind of ridiculous the amount of rock that is floating around within 8hrs of vegas.

Yeah, any local could add similar additions to their respective cities. I was just trying to give a snapshot of different grades of local, day trip, and weekend opportunities.


Partner cracklover


Mar 10, 2011, 12:09 AM
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camhead wrote:
DENVER, CO
Local: ?
Day Trip: shit-ton of stuff, none gets a star though
Weekend: Moab/Indian Creek*, Rifle*, Vedauvoo*, Black Canyon*

You're missing a lot, and have a few things miscategorized. Here's my take on

DENVER, CO
Local: Clear Creek Canyon, North Table, Eldo (borderline *), Boulder Canyon, and a lot of bouldering
Day Trip: Estes Park/Lumpy*, Shelf Road, The South Platte (borderline*), and a shit-ton of other stuff that doesn't get a star
Weekend: RMNP*, Ten Sleep*, Devil's Tower, a ton of stuff on the Western Slope (like Escalante), a ton of stuff in Utah (like The San Rafael Swell), and the ones you mentioned - Moab/Indian Creek*, Rifle*, Vedauvoo*, Black Canyon*

BOSTON, MA
Local: Quincy Quarries, Black and White Rocks, Hammond Pond, Rattlesnake Rocks.
Day Trip: Rumney, North Conway, Cannon, and a few decent bouldering areas.
Weekend: The Gunks*

GO


shockabuku


Mar 10, 2011, 2:18 PM
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Well, it might, depending on what you're looking for.

Santa Fe isn't top tier but there's climbing within reasonable distances.

Diablo Canyon is real close, White Rock and the other Los Alamos areas are probably around 1/2 hour away, there's a few areas up in the Jemez Mountains that are probably an hour to an hour and a half. The Taos and (more) northern NM areas are easy day trip distance. The Sandias (Albuquerque) are easy day trip distance. The Enchanted Tower is pushing it for a day trip but definitely good for a weekend. Shelf Road is maybe 5 hours, Penitente is up there maybe 4-5 hours I would guess. Summer is hot. Not like Phoenix hot, but still uncomfortably warm. That's a good time to head to the Sandias or some higher elevation places. Santa Fe has a small gym if that factors into your "equation".


blueeyedclimber


Mar 10, 2011, 2:32 PM
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I can't BELIEVE no one has mentioned Boston as the place to be, what with Quincy Quarries just a stone's throw away. Cool



Seriously, though, Boston is not that bad. But, I would only seriously consider it if you got a SPECTACULAR job that allowed time and money to travel.

Here are some of the best rock and time to get to from Boston:

Gunks - 4 hours
North Conway 2.5 hours
Rumney 2 hours
Cannon 2.5 hours
Adirondacks 4 hours
Acadia 5 hours


So, not exactly in the running for great climbing city, but there are worse places indeed.

Josh


shockabuku


Mar 10, 2011, 2:34 PM
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ALBUQUERQUE, NM
Local: Sandias (though more of a day trip), Palomas, U Mound
Day Trip: Enchanted Tower, Diablo Canyon, Las Conchas, Gillman Tunnels, Tres Piedras, Questa Dome, White Rock, El Rito, The Pond, others.
Weekend: Hueco Tanks*, Shelf Road, Indian Creek*, Rifle*, Penitente


sandstoned


Mar 10, 2011, 2:56 PM
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Allright, thanks. A lot of those names are of places I have only heard of through MtnProj, but a few look good enough. I am thinking that after this summer I will take a tour of the front range and head down to NM to have a look; if that doesn't suit me then perhaps I will drive on over to WV. I'm really not sure where we'll end up, but I do know that this was my last winter in MT. Props to all the wonderful folks up here who like these winters enough to be around for every glorious spring, summer, and fall; they're too much for me though.


marc801


Mar 10, 2011, 3:03 PM
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sandstoned wrote:
And while I know that this place will not compare with places out west, what are some opinions on Fayetteville/Charleston area in WV? Not my first choice, but it is closer to my family and I have been considering adding it to my list of possibilities.
What kind of work do you do? That really does have to factor in to any decision. Some professions are more geographically limiting than others.


Partner camhead


Mar 10, 2011, 3:04 PM
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Also, my original list did not take into account seasonal variety. For the most part, in the East it is harder to find good climbing in the summer, due to oppressive humidity, and the weather is much worse. Not only does it rain more, but weather patterns are larger, meaning that if it is raining at one destination, it is probably raining at another, too.

In other words, Western climbing areas sacrifice a bit of overall rock quality (especially in terms of sport), in exchange for higher chances of good climbing year-round.


justroberto


Mar 10, 2011, 3:12 PM
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WV is great, but Charleston is in no way a major city. Chattanooga, while small, is still considerably larger, if that's a factor in your decision.


MS1


Mar 10, 2011, 3:21 PM
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camhead wrote:
Ok, I'm putting together a list of decent climbing cities that are core metropolitan areas (so, no Flagstaff or Chattanooga, though those places would take the gold medal no problem).

Using the criteria of three tiers of climbing: LOCAL (within or right outside city limits, less than an hour away), DAY TRIP (within 3 hours drive), and WEEKEND (within 6-8 hours). I've starred areas I think are nationally renowned destinations.

No particular order. Feel free to criticize/add to it.

LAS VEGAS, NV
Local: Red Rocks*
Day Trip: Virgin River Gorge*, Mt. Charleston
Weekend: Jtree*, Zion*

LOS ANGELES, CA (though from what I've heard about drive time, some of the local areas might not work that well)
Local: Malibu Creek, Tick Rock, Stony Point
Day Trip: Taquitz/Suicide, Jtree*,
Weekend: Yosemite*, Needles*

SEATTLE, WA
Local: -
Day Trip: Index, Leavenworth, Vantage
Weekend: Squamish*, Smith Rock*

RENO, NV
Local:-
Day Trip: Lover's Leap, Donner
Weekend: Bishop*, Yosemite*

SALT LAKE CITY:
Local: Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons
Day Trip: Maple Canyon*, Uintas, American Fork Canyon
Weekend: City of Rocks*, Tetons*, Ibex, Joe's Valley, Red Rocks*, Indian Creek*, Zion*

DENVER, CO
Local: ?
Day Trip: shit-ton of stuff, none gets a star though
Weekend: Moab/Indian Creek*, Rifle*, Vedauvoo*, Black Canyon*

ALBUQUERQUE, NM
Local: Sandias?
Day Trip: Enchanted Tower
Weekend: Hueco Tanks*, Shelf Road, Indian Creek*

PHOENIX, AZ:
Local: -
Day Trip: Queen Creek, Homestead, Cochise Stronghold, Paradise Forks, Sedona, Priest Draw
Weekend: Red Rocks*, Jtree*, Hueco*, Indian Creek*

AUSTIN, TX:
Local: Green Belt, McKinney Falls, many others
Day Trip: Reimer's Ranch, Enchanted Rock
Weekend: Potrero Chico*, Wichitas, Continental Ranch

NASHVILLE, TN:
Local: -
Day Trip: T-wall*, Obed
Weekend: RRG*, NRG*, HP40, various NC crags

CHARLESTON, WV:
Local: -
Day Trip: New River Gorge*
Weekend: RRG*, NC, Seneca, Coopers Rock, T-wall*, HP40

ATLANTA, GA:
Local: Boatrock
Day Trip: T-wall*, Rocktown
Weekend: HP40, RRG*, NRG*, NC

WASHINGTON DC:
local: -
day trip: Carderock, Old Rag
Weekend: NRG*, NC, Seneca

CINCINATTI, OH
local: -
Day Trip: RRG*
Weekend: NRG*, T-wall*, NC, Obed

NEW YORK CITY:
Local: Rat Rock!
Day Trip: Gunks*
Weekend: Seneca, Rumney, Cathedral

That's about all I can think of off the top of my head, time to get off the computer. Someone should make a spreadsheet of these.

What about Chicago, Boston, Boise, Madison, Twin Cities?

Nice list. Since you asked about our horrible situation, here is the Chicago lowdown:

CHICAGO, IL
Local: -
Day Trip: -
Weekend: Devil's Lake (3.5 hrs), Governor Dodge (3.5 hrs), RRG* (7 hrs), So. IL crags (7 hrs).

That is based on your definition of "weekend" vs. "day-trip," although a lot of Chicago locals are desperate enough to do day trips to the Wisconsin crags. And all of these drive times assume you have successfully avoided traffic getting out of the city.

Short version: Climbers should never, ever, move to Chicago if they can avoid it.


Partner camhead


Mar 10, 2011, 3:33 PM
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MS1 wrote:

Nice list. Since you asked about our horrible situation, here is the Chicago lowdown:

CHICAGO, IL
Local: -
Day Trip: -
Weekend: Devil's Lake (3.5 hrs), Governor Dodge (3.5 hrs), RRG* (7 hrs), So. IL crags (7 hrs).

That is based on your definition of "weekend" vs. "day-trip," although a lot of Chicago locals are desperate enough to do day trips to the Wisconsin crags. And all of these drive times assume you have successfully avoided traffic getting out of the city.

Short version: Climbers should never, ever, move to Chicago if they can avoid it.

Yeah, my normal criteria for difference between a day trip and a weekend is that I should spend more time on the rock than in the car round trip. I've done a 3.5 hour drive one way to climb, but that is pushing it, and I'll try to avoid Chicago.

I don't live in a climbers' town in any sense of the word, but it could be worse. Here's my situation:

COLUMBUS,OH:
Local: none
Day Trip: lots of shitty bouldering, and maybe Cooper's Rock
Weekend: RRG, NRG, Obed, Seneca, T-wall, NC.


gmggg


Mar 10, 2011, 4:40 PM
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camhead wrote:
Ok, I'm putting together a list of decent climbing cities that are core metropolitan areas (so, no Flagstaff or Chattanooga, though those places would take the gold medal no problem).

Using the criteria of three tiers of climbing: LOCAL (within or right outside city limits, less than an hour away), DAY TRIP (within 3 hours drive), and WEEKEND (within 6-8 hours). I've starred areas I think are nationally renowned destinations.

No particular order. Feel free to criticize/add to it.

LAS VEGAS, NV
Local: Red Rocks*
Day Trip: Virgin River Gorge*, Mt. Charleston
Weekend: Jtree*, Zion*

LOS ANGELES, CA (though from what I've heard about drive time, some of the local areas might not work that well)
Local: Malibu Creek, Tick Rock, Stony Point
Day Trip: Taquitz/Suicide, Jtree*,
Weekend: Yosemite*, Needles*

SEATTLE, WA
Local: -
Day Trip: Index, Leavenworth, Vantage
Weekend: Squamish*, Smith Rock*

RENO, NV
Local:-
Day Trip: Lover's Leap, Donner
Weekend: Bishop*, Yosemite*

SALT LAKE CITY:
Local: Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons
Day Trip: Maple Canyon*, Uintas, American Fork Canyon
Weekend: City of Rocks*, Tetons*, Ibex, Joe's Valley, Red Rocks*, Indian Creek*, Zion*

DENVER, CO
Local: ?
Day Trip: shit-ton of stuff, none gets a star though
Weekend: Moab/Indian Creek*, Rifle*, Vedauvoo*, Black Canyon*

ALBUQUERQUE, NM
Local: Sandias?
Day Trip: Enchanted Tower
Weekend: Hueco Tanks*, Shelf Road, Indian Creek*

PHOENIX, AZ:
Local: -
Day Trip: Queen Creek, Homestead, Cochise Stronghold, Paradise Forks, Sedona, Priest Draw
Weekend: Red Rocks*, Jtree*, Hueco*, Indian Creek*

AUSTIN, TX:
Local: Green Belt, McKinney Falls, many others
Day Trip: Reimer's Ranch, Enchanted Rock
Weekend: Potrero Chico*, Wichitas, Continental Ranch

NASHVILLE, TN:
Local: -
Day Trip: T-wall*, Obed
Weekend: RRG*, NRG*, HP40, various NC crags

CHARLESTON, WV:
Local: -
Day Trip: New River Gorge*
Weekend: RRG*, NC, Seneca, Coopers Rock, T-wall*, HP40

ATLANTA, GA:
Local: Boatrock
Day Trip: T-wall*, Rocktown
Weekend: HP40, RRG*, NRG*, NC

WASHINGTON DC:
local: -
day trip: Carderock, Old Rag
Weekend: NRG*, NC, Seneca

CINCINATTI, OH
local: -
Day Trip: RRG*
Weekend: NRG*, T-wall*, NC, Obed

NEW YORK CITY:
Local: Rat Rock!
Day Trip: Gunks*
Weekend: Seneca, Rumney, Cathedral

That's about all I can think of off the top of my head, time to get off the computer. Someone should make a spreadsheet of these.

What about Chicago, Boston, Boise, Madison, Twin Cities?

I'd add Red Rocks to your weekend category in LA

I'll fill in Boston but what's the more important criterion for "local" - <1hr. or within state limits?

BOSTON, MA
Local: Crow Hill, Lincoln Woods RI, Various micro crags in the greater metro area.
Day Trip: Rumney NH, Pawtuckaway
Weekend: Cathedral, Arcadia, Gunks, Daks


(This post was edited by gmggg on Mar 10, 2011, 4:41 PM)


dynosore


Mar 10, 2011, 5:35 PM
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In reply to:
DENVER, CO
Local: ?
Day Trip: shit-ton of stuff, none gets a star though
Weekend: Moab/Indian Creek*, Rifle*, Vedauvoo*, Black Canyon*

Vedauwoo is less than 2 hours from Denver, hence day trip. Rifle is within your 3 hour limit too (barely). Snowy Range is near Vedauwoo and has a 1000 foot face and a lot of other climbing. Guess it depends on what you want to do, but I think Denver is a lot better than people are giving it credit for.


ncrockclimber


Mar 10, 2011, 5:48 PM
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TUCSON, AZ:
Local: Mt Lemmon, lot's of desert bouldering
Day Trip: Queen Creek, Homestead, Cochise Stronghold, Paradise Forks, Sedona, Priest Draw, Jacks and everything else in AZ.
Weekend: Red Rocks*, Jtree*, Hueco*, Indian Creek*

Went to undergrad in Tucson and loved it. Mt Lemmon has a lifetime of climbing and tons of potential for new routes if you are willing to hike for :30 min. I am always surprised that it does not come up more in these conversations.

edit because I cannot type... changed "dessert" to "desert."


(This post was edited by ncrockclimber on Mar 10, 2011, 5:50 PM)


snoopy138


Mar 10, 2011, 6:21 PM
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camhead wrote:
Ok, I'm putting together a list of decent climbing cities that are core metropolitan areas (so, no Flagstaff or Chattanooga, though those places would take the gold medal no problem).

Using the criteria of three tiers of climbing: LOCAL (within or right outside city limits, less than an hour away), DAY TRIP (within 3 hours drive), and WEEKEND (within 6-8 hours). I've starred areas I think are nationally renowned destinations.

No particular order. Feel free to criticize/add to it.

I'll just fill in LA. I removed Tick Rock from the list, because if that goes on, then a whole bunch of random crap needs to be added.

LOS ANGELES, CA (though from what I've heard about drive time, some of the local areas might not work that well)
Local: Malibu Creek, Stoney Point ("local" classification depends on where in LA you are and what time you get off of work)
Day Trip: Taquitz/Suicide, Jtree*, Woodson, various mediocre sport climbing (Quarry, Big Bear, NJC, Echo), Black Mountain/Tramway (might be a * for the boulderers)
Weekend: Yosemite*, Needles*, Bishop and other eastside destinations*, High Sierra*, Tuolumne*, Red Rocks*, Tahoe*


malieka


Mar 10, 2011, 7:14 PM
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camhead wrote:
RENO, NV
Local:-
Day Trip: Lover's Leap, Donner
Weekend: Bishop*, Yosemite*

Great list.

I think that many Reno-ites think of Donner (and Big Chief for that matter) as their local crags. Granted, these areas aren’t within the city limits, but depending in what part of town they live, both areas can be within an hour drive. Not much different than BCC or LCC depending on where one lives in SLC.

The closest (i.e. most local) Reno area is River Rock (20 minutes from NW Reno), which while small and sometimes crowded, has some super high quality crack and face climbs. There’s also a bit of bouldering scattered here and there, as well as relatively new sport area in south Reno (though I’ve heard it’s a bit chossy).

Both Donner and the Leap are arguably nationally, if not world-renowned destinations. Every summer I meet climbers from different areas of the globe that made a point to include these areas in their west coast climbing trip.


nkane


Mar 10, 2011, 7:26 PM
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PORTLAND, OR:

Local: Broughton, Rocky Butt, Ozone/Farside
Day Trip: Beacon, French's, Horsethief, Mt. Hood
Weekend: Smith*, Tieton, Alpine Lakes Region*, N, Cascades*, Menagerie, Olympics, Rainier*


(This post was edited by nkane on Mar 10, 2011, 7:27 PM)


snoopy138


Mar 10, 2011, 7:27 PM
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snoopy138 wrote:
camhead wrote:
Ok, I'm putting together a list of decent climbing cities that are core metropolitan areas (so, no Flagstaff or Chattanooga, though those places would take the gold medal no problem).

Using the criteria of three tiers of climbing: LOCAL (within or right outside city limits, less than an hour away), DAY TRIP (within 3 hours drive), and WEEKEND (within 6-8 hours). I've starred areas I think are nationally renowned destinations.

No particular order. Feel free to criticize/add to it.

I'll just fill in LA. I removed Tick Rock from the list, because if that goes on, then a whole bunch of random crap needs to be added.

LOS ANGELES, CA (though from what I've heard about drive time, some of the local areas might not work that well)
Local: Malibu Creek, Stoney Point ("local" classification depends on where in LA you are and what time you get off of work)
Day Trip: Taquitz/Suicide, Jtree*, Woodson, various mediocre sport climbing (Quarry, Big Bear, NJC, Echo), Black Mountain/Tramway (might be a * for the boulderers)
Weekend: Yosemite*, Needles*, Bishop and other eastside destinations*, High Sierra*, Tuolumne*, Red Rocks*, Tahoe*

oops, forgot to add that within 8 hours there's also I-15 limestone (Clark Mtn., Vegas, VRG, St. George) and Flagstaff. Of course, I'd never go to Tahoe, Flag, St. George for a 2-day weekend, given everything that's closer.


Partner camhead


Mar 10, 2011, 7:28 PM
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Yeah, I'm seeing that the classification of something as "local" is a bit hazy. When I think "local," I think of places like Logan Canyon in Northern Utah, Priest's Draw or The Pit in Flagstaff, or the Barton Creek Greenbelt in Austin. All of these places are decent half-day destinations, or quick after-work options.

But, the bigger a city gets, the tougher it can be to have "after work" destinations. As we've seen, there are quite a few places within the greater Los Angeles area that could still take tow hours for "locals" to get to. If you live on the Southwest side of Vegas, Red Rocks might not be an after work option for you. And I still don't consider Boulder Canyon or Eldo to be "local" destinations for Denverites. For Boulderites, yes.

If we narrow down "world class" destinations within an hour of a major city, this is the short list:

El Paso
NYC
Las Vegas
Lexington
... and maybe Charleston and Chattanooga


petsfed


Mar 10, 2011, 7:33 PM
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dynosore wrote:
In reply to:
DENVER, CO
Local: ?
Day Trip: shit-ton of stuff, none gets a star though
Weekend: Moab/Indian Creek*, Rifle*, Vedauvoo*, Black Canyon*

Vedauwoo is less than 2 hours from Denver, hence day trip. Rifle is within your 3 hour limit too (barely). Snowy Range is near Vedauwoo and has a 1000 foot face and a lot of other climbing. Guess it depends on what you want to do, but I think Denver is a lot better than people are giving it credit for.

Really? Maybe if you live on the extreme northern edge of Denver (Greeley, for example). Or if you ignore traffic laws, and happen to be driving when the traffic isn't bad (uh, when is I-25 not slowed down due to traffic density or construction these days?).

Also, the climbing in the Snowies is a great many things, but for the amount of time spent driving to get there (its about an hour past Laramie), you could be a couple miles up the trail to Longs Peak, or a bunch of other stuff in RMNP, all of it of uniformly higher quality.

Like I said to cracklover earlier, I think I was exaggerating quite a bit to call Denver terrible, but its more a good place to base roadtrips to world-class areas than to live and climb in.


bigo


Mar 10, 2011, 7:54 PM
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camhead wrote:

SEATTLE, WA
Local: -
Day Trip: Index, Leavenworth, Vantage
Weekend: Squamish*, Smith Rock*

Good List!

I would add and re-organize Seattle a bit. Index is on the edge of the 1hour radius from Seattle, but people hit it after work in the summer so local it is.



SEATTLE, WA
Local: Index, Exit 32/38
Day Trip: Leavenworth, Vantage, Teiton, Darrington, Gold Bar, Various uber secrect local only crags ;)
Weekend: Squamish*, Smith Rock*, Newhalem, N. Cascades


dynosore


Mar 10, 2011, 8:05 PM
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If you want to take traffic into account, driving north from Denver pales in comparison to trying to get out of LA, NYC, or several others on the list. I always obey all local traffic laws Angelic. But I agree that the immediate climbing opps in the city are poor, hence I've chosen the Springs.


marc801


Mar 10, 2011, 8:16 PM
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gmggg wrote:
I'll fill in Boston but what's the more important criterion for "local" - <1hr. or within state limits?
It should definitely be travel time based, and not state limits. Unlike Massachusetts, I can drive 5 hrs and still easily be within Utah.


snoopy138


Mar 10, 2011, 8:29 PM
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camhead wrote:
Yeah, I'm seeing that the classification of something as "local" is a bit hazy. When I think "local," I think of places like Logan Canyon in Northern Utah, Priest's Draw or The Pit in Flagstaff, or the Barton Creek Greenbelt in Austin. All of these places are decent half-day destinations, or quick after-work options.

But, the bigger a city gets, the tougher it can be to have "after work" destinations. As we've seen, there are quite a few places within the greater Los Angeles area that could still take tow hours for "locals" to get to. If you live on the Southwest side of Vegas, Red Rocks might not be an after work option for you. And I still don't consider Boulder Canyon or Eldo to be "local" destinations for Denverites. For Boulderites, yes.

If we narrow down "world class" destinations within an hour of a major city, this is the short list:

El Paso
NYC
Las Vegas
Lexington
... and maybe Charleston and Chattanooga

Rat Rock is a world class destination? Because it's an hour and a half or more to the Gunks.


gmggg


Mar 10, 2011, 8:37 PM
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marc801 wrote:
gmggg wrote:
I'll fill in Boston but what's the more important criterion for "local" - <1hr. or within state limits?
It should definitely be travel time based, and not state limits. Unlike Massachusetts, I can drive 5 hrs and still easily be within Utah.

That was a bit tongue in cheek. Since we've got two nation-class maybe world-class (if you believe the mags and don;t travel much) Bouldering locales at either end of our border and less than 1 hour away. Pretty much everything in the 100 some odd miles between the two is ho-hum.


atg200


Mar 10, 2011, 8:56 PM
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snoopy138


Mar 10, 2011, 9:52 PM
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atg200 wrote:
Why don't you consider Eldo or Boulder Canyon to be local for Denver?

because he hates coloradiego.


petsfed


Mar 11, 2011, 12:11 AM
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atg200 wrote:
Why don't you consider Eldo or Boulder Canyon to be local for Denver? I can get to either of those places in a half hour from my house in downtown Denver, and Denverites climb there after work all the time. Castlewood Canyon is another fun local option for Denver. Kind of a very poor man's version of Maple Canyon.

When I lived in Highlands Ranch, trying to get to Eldo between 3 and 6pm was a 2 hour drive. Not really "after work". On the other hand, the drive to my job (Rock'n & Jam'n) took about an hour to the north location, or 20 minutes for the south location, during the same period.


(This post was edited by petsfed on Mar 11, 2011, 12:12 AM)


Partner cracklover


Mar 11, 2011, 6:06 AM
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Re: [petsfed] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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petsfed wrote:
atg200 wrote:
Why don't you consider Eldo or Boulder Canyon to be local for Denver? I can get to either of those places in a half hour from my house in downtown Denver, and Denverites climb there after work all the time. Castlewood Canyon is another fun local option for Denver. Kind of a very poor man's version of Maple Canyon.

When I lived in Highlands Ranch, trying to get to Eldo between 3 and 6pm was a 2 hour drive. Not really "after work". On the other hand, the drive to my job (Rock'n & Jam'n) took about an hour to the north location, or 20 minutes for the south location, during the same period.

That's bizarre. I'm all the way in Aurora (east of Denver), and the longest it's ever taken me to drive to boulder was an hour and forty minutes once, in the middle of a blizzard, with accidents everywhere. Typical is 50 minutes.

GO


atg200


Mar 11, 2011, 10:19 PM
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Partner cracklover


Mar 11, 2011, 11:23 PM
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atg200 wrote:
petsfed wrote:
atg200 wrote:
Why don't you consider Eldo or Boulder Canyon to be local for Denver? I can get to either of those places in a half hour from my house in downtown Denver, and Denverites climb there after work all the time. Castlewood Canyon is another fun local option for Denver. Kind of a very poor man's version of Maple Canyon.

When I lived in Highlands Ranch, trying to get to Eldo between 3 and 6pm was a 2 hour drive. Not really "after work". On the other hand, the drive to my job (Rock'n & Jam'n) took about an hour to the north location, or 20 minutes for the south location, during the same period.

Well, Highlands Ranch isn't Denver, nor does it come anywhere close to even bordering Denver. Cherry picking driving times from the most inconvenient suburb is a bit silly.

Ah, that would explain it. Good catch.

GO


desertwanderer81


Mar 14, 2011, 3:15 PM
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Re: [skiclimb] Major cities in the US with good climbing nearby [In reply to]
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skiclimb wrote:
malieka wrote:
I'm often surprised that Reno/Sparks isn't mentioned in conversations of this type. While the economy here isn't exactly booming, the greater metropolitan area has a population of about 500,00 along with the amenities/industry variety expected with a city of that size.

Reno is close to so much quality rock it would be silly to name it all. But a sampling....
Donner - 45 min
Eagle Lakes - 1.5 hr
Woodfords - 1.5 hr
Leap,Spires,Loaf - 2ish hr
Tuolumne - 3.5 hr
Rock Creek - 4 hr
Bishop/Gorge - 4ish hr

Granted, Reno is similar to SLC in that much of the rock is under snow for part of the year. But like SLC, these areas also offer world class winter sports opportunities. Plus, climbing can be found nearly year round within a 5 hour drive.

Ditto .. find a better decent sized place closer to Yosemite?

Seriously! I actually prefer Reno to Vegas as far as climbing cities go.

1) Yes, there is summer climbing in Vegas.... but Charleston isn't really that great.
2) The local culture in Reno is vastly superior to that of Vegas.
3) World class skiing! (even though this is a thread about climbing, not skiing...)
4) Trees!

Oh, and I would say that Donner is about 25 minutes and the Leap about 1.5 hours away.... But maybe I just drive faster :D


desertwanderer81


Mar 14, 2011, 3:27 PM
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RENO, NV
Local:-Donner, (About 5 decent little crags)
Day Trip: Lover's Leap, (About 30 pretty decent crags worth a day or two at)
Weekend: Bishop*, Yosemite*

I have definitely headed off to Donner after work several times. And really, if the Gunks is a "World Class Destination", then Donner and the Leap are too, heh.


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