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MS1
Mar 10, 2011, 3:21 PM
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camhead wrote: Ok, I'm putting together a list of decent climbing cities that are core metropolitan areas (so, no Flagstaff or Chattanooga, though those places would take the gold medal no problem). Using the criteria of three tiers of climbing: LOCAL (within or right outside city limits, less than an hour away), DAY TRIP (within 3 hours drive), and WEEKEND (within 6-8 hours). I've starred areas I think are nationally renowned destinations. No particular order. Feel free to criticize/add to it. LAS VEGAS, NV Local: Red Rocks* Day Trip: Virgin River Gorge*, Mt. Charleston Weekend: Jtree*, Zion* LOS ANGELES, CA (though from what I've heard about drive time, some of the local areas might not work that well) Local: Malibu Creek, Tick Rock, Stony Point Day Trip: Taquitz/Suicide, Jtree*, Weekend: Yosemite*, Needles* SEATTLE, WA Local: - Day Trip: Index, Leavenworth, Vantage Weekend: Squamish*, Smith Rock* RENO, NV Local:- Day Trip: Lover's Leap, Donner Weekend: Bishop*, Yosemite* SALT LAKE CITY: Local: Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons Day Trip: Maple Canyon*, Uintas, American Fork Canyon Weekend: City of Rocks*, Tetons*, Ibex, Joe's Valley, Red Rocks*, Indian Creek*, Zion* DENVER, CO Local: ? Day Trip: shit-ton of stuff, none gets a star though Weekend: Moab/Indian Creek*, Rifle*, Vedauvoo*, Black Canyon* ALBUQUERQUE, NM Local: Sandias? Day Trip: Enchanted Tower Weekend: Hueco Tanks*, Shelf Road, Indian Creek* PHOENIX, AZ: Local: - Day Trip: Queen Creek, Homestead, Cochise Stronghold, Paradise Forks, Sedona, Priest Draw Weekend: Red Rocks*, Jtree*, Hueco*, Indian Creek* AUSTIN, TX: Local: Green Belt, McKinney Falls, many others Day Trip: Reimer's Ranch, Enchanted Rock Weekend: Potrero Chico*, Wichitas, Continental Ranch NASHVILLE, TN: Local: - Day Trip: T-wall*, Obed Weekend: RRG*, NRG*, HP40, various NC crags CHARLESTON, WV: Local: - Day Trip: New River Gorge* Weekend: RRG*, NC, Seneca, Coopers Rock, T-wall*, HP40 ATLANTA, GA: Local: Boatrock Day Trip: T-wall*, Rocktown Weekend: HP40, RRG*, NRG*, NC WASHINGTON DC: local: - day trip: Carderock, Old Rag Weekend: NRG*, NC, Seneca CINCINATTI, OH local: - Day Trip: RRG* Weekend: NRG*, T-wall*, NC, Obed NEW YORK CITY: Local: Rat Rock! Day Trip: Gunks* Weekend: Seneca, Rumney, Cathedral That's about all I can think of off the top of my head, time to get off the computer. Someone should make a spreadsheet of these. What about Chicago, Boston, Boise, Madison, Twin Cities? Nice list. Since you asked about our horrible situation, here is the Chicago lowdown: CHICAGO, IL Local: - Day Trip: - Weekend: Devil's Lake (3.5 hrs), Governor Dodge (3.5 hrs), RRG* (7 hrs), So. IL crags (7 hrs). That is based on your definition of "weekend" vs. "day-trip," although a lot of Chicago locals are desperate enough to do day trips to the Wisconsin crags. And all of these drive times assume you have successfully avoided traffic getting out of the city. Short version: Climbers should never, ever, move to Chicago if they can avoid it.
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camhead
Mar 10, 2011, 3:33 PM
Post #77 of 99
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MS1 wrote: Nice list. Since you asked about our horrible situation, here is the Chicago lowdown: CHICAGO, IL Local: - Day Trip: - Weekend: Devil's Lake (3.5 hrs), Governor Dodge (3.5 hrs), RRG* (7 hrs), So. IL crags (7 hrs). That is based on your definition of "weekend" vs. "day-trip," although a lot of Chicago locals are desperate enough to do day trips to the Wisconsin crags. And all of these drive times assume you have successfully avoided traffic getting out of the city. Short version: Climbers should never, ever, move to Chicago if they can avoid it. Yeah, my normal criteria for difference between a day trip and a weekend is that I should spend more time on the rock than in the car round trip. I've done a 3.5 hour drive one way to climb, but that is pushing it, and I'll try to avoid Chicago. I don't live in a climbers' town in any sense of the word, but it could be worse. Here's my situation: COLUMBUS,OH: Local: none Day Trip: lots of shitty bouldering, and maybe Cooper's Rock Weekend: RRG, NRG, Obed, Seneca, T-wall, NC.
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gmggg
Mar 10, 2011, 4:40 PM
Post #78 of 99
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camhead wrote: Ok, I'm putting together a list of decent climbing cities that are core metropolitan areas (so, no Flagstaff or Chattanooga, though those places would take the gold medal no problem). Using the criteria of three tiers of climbing: LOCAL (within or right outside city limits, less than an hour away), DAY TRIP (within 3 hours drive), and WEEKEND (within 6-8 hours). I've starred areas I think are nationally renowned destinations. No particular order. Feel free to criticize/add to it. LAS VEGAS, NV Local: Red Rocks* Day Trip: Virgin River Gorge*, Mt. Charleston Weekend: Jtree*, Zion* LOS ANGELES, CA (though from what I've heard about drive time, some of the local areas might not work that well) Local: Malibu Creek, Tick Rock, Stony Point Day Trip: Taquitz/Suicide, Jtree*, Weekend: Yosemite*, Needles* SEATTLE, WA Local: - Day Trip: Index, Leavenworth, Vantage Weekend: Squamish*, Smith Rock* RENO, NV Local:- Day Trip: Lover's Leap, Donner Weekend: Bishop*, Yosemite* SALT LAKE CITY: Local: Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons Day Trip: Maple Canyon*, Uintas, American Fork Canyon Weekend: City of Rocks*, Tetons*, Ibex, Joe's Valley, Red Rocks*, Indian Creek*, Zion* DENVER, CO Local: ? Day Trip: shit-ton of stuff, none gets a star though Weekend: Moab/Indian Creek*, Rifle*, Vedauvoo*, Black Canyon* ALBUQUERQUE, NM Local: Sandias? Day Trip: Enchanted Tower Weekend: Hueco Tanks*, Shelf Road, Indian Creek* PHOENIX, AZ: Local: - Day Trip: Queen Creek, Homestead, Cochise Stronghold, Paradise Forks, Sedona, Priest Draw Weekend: Red Rocks*, Jtree*, Hueco*, Indian Creek* AUSTIN, TX: Local: Green Belt, McKinney Falls, many others Day Trip: Reimer's Ranch, Enchanted Rock Weekend: Potrero Chico*, Wichitas, Continental Ranch NASHVILLE, TN: Local: - Day Trip: T-wall*, Obed Weekend: RRG*, NRG*, HP40, various NC crags CHARLESTON, WV: Local: - Day Trip: New River Gorge* Weekend: RRG*, NC, Seneca, Coopers Rock, T-wall*, HP40 ATLANTA, GA: Local: Boatrock Day Trip: T-wall*, Rocktown Weekend: HP40, RRG*, NRG*, NC WASHINGTON DC: local: - day trip: Carderock, Old Rag Weekend: NRG*, NC, Seneca CINCINATTI, OH local: - Day Trip: RRG* Weekend: NRG*, T-wall*, NC, Obed NEW YORK CITY: Local: Rat Rock! Day Trip: Gunks* Weekend: Seneca, Rumney, Cathedral That's about all I can think of off the top of my head, time to get off the computer. Someone should make a spreadsheet of these. What about Chicago, Boston, Boise, Madison, Twin Cities? I'd add Red Rocks to your weekend category in LA I'll fill in Boston but what's the more important criterion for "local" - <1hr. or within state limits? BOSTON, MA Local: Crow Hill, Lincoln Woods RI, Various micro crags in the greater metro area. Day Trip: Rumney NH, Pawtuckaway Weekend: Cathedral, Arcadia, Gunks, Daks
(This post was edited by gmggg on Mar 10, 2011, 4:41 PM)
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dynosore
Mar 10, 2011, 5:35 PM
Post #79 of 99
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In reply to: DENVER, CO Local: ? Day Trip: shit-ton of stuff, none gets a star though Weekend: Moab/Indian Creek*, Rifle*, Vedauvoo*, Black Canyon* Vedauwoo is less than 2 hours from Denver, hence day trip. Rifle is within your 3 hour limit too (barely). Snowy Range is near Vedauwoo and has a 1000 foot face and a lot of other climbing. Guess it depends on what you want to do, but I think Denver is a lot better than people are giving it credit for.
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ncrockclimber
Mar 10, 2011, 5:48 PM
Post #80 of 99
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TUCSON, AZ: Local: Mt Lemmon, lot's of desert bouldering Day Trip: Queen Creek, Homestead, Cochise Stronghold, Paradise Forks, Sedona, Priest Draw, Jacks and everything else in AZ. Weekend: Red Rocks*, Jtree*, Hueco*, Indian Creek* Went to undergrad in Tucson and loved it. Mt Lemmon has a lifetime of climbing and tons of potential for new routes if you are willing to hike for :30 min. I am always surprised that it does not come up more in these conversations. edit because I cannot type... changed "dessert" to "desert."
(This post was edited by ncrockclimber on Mar 10, 2011, 5:50 PM)
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snoopy138
Mar 10, 2011, 6:21 PM
Post #81 of 99
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camhead wrote: Ok, I'm putting together a list of decent climbing cities that are core metropolitan areas (so, no Flagstaff or Chattanooga, though those places would take the gold medal no problem). Using the criteria of three tiers of climbing: LOCAL (within or right outside city limits, less than an hour away), DAY TRIP (within 3 hours drive), and WEEKEND (within 6-8 hours). I've starred areas I think are nationally renowned destinations. No particular order. Feel free to criticize/add to it. I'll just fill in LA. I removed Tick Rock from the list, because if that goes on, then a whole bunch of random crap needs to be added. LOS ANGELES, CA (though from what I've heard about drive time, some of the local areas might not work that well) Local: Malibu Creek, Stoney Point ("local" classification depends on where in LA you are and what time you get off of work) Day Trip: Taquitz/Suicide, Jtree*, Woodson, various mediocre sport climbing (Quarry, Big Bear, NJC, Echo), Black Mountain/Tramway (might be a * for the boulderers) Weekend: Yosemite*, Needles*, Bishop and other eastside destinations*, High Sierra*, Tuolumne*, Red Rocks*, Tahoe*
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malieka
Mar 10, 2011, 7:14 PM
Post #82 of 99
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camhead wrote: RENO, NV Local:- Day Trip: Lover's Leap, Donner Weekend: Bishop*, Yosemite* Great list. I think that many Reno-ites think of Donner (and Big Chief for that matter) as their local crags. Granted, these areas aren’t within the city limits, but depending in what part of town they live, both areas can be within an hour drive. Not much different than BCC or LCC depending on where one lives in SLC. The closest (i.e. most local) Reno area is River Rock (20 minutes from NW Reno), which while small and sometimes crowded, has some super high quality crack and face climbs. There’s also a bit of bouldering scattered here and there, as well as relatively new sport area in south Reno (though I’ve heard it’s a bit chossy). Both Donner and the Leap are arguably nationally, if not world-renowned destinations. Every summer I meet climbers from different areas of the globe that made a point to include these areas in their west coast climbing trip.
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nkane
Mar 10, 2011, 7:26 PM
Post #83 of 99
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PORTLAND, OR: Local: Broughton, Rocky Butt, Ozone/Farside Day Trip: Beacon, French's, Horsethief, Mt. Hood Weekend: Smith*, Tieton, Alpine Lakes Region*, N, Cascades*, Menagerie, Olympics, Rainier*
(This post was edited by nkane on Mar 10, 2011, 7:27 PM)
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snoopy138
Mar 10, 2011, 7:27 PM
Post #84 of 99
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snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: Ok, I'm putting together a list of decent climbing cities that are core metropolitan areas (so, no Flagstaff or Chattanooga, though those places would take the gold medal no problem). Using the criteria of three tiers of climbing: LOCAL (within or right outside city limits, less than an hour away), DAY TRIP (within 3 hours drive), and WEEKEND (within 6-8 hours). I've starred areas I think are nationally renowned destinations. No particular order. Feel free to criticize/add to it. I'll just fill in LA. I removed Tick Rock from the list, because if that goes on, then a whole bunch of random crap needs to be added. LOS ANGELES, CA (though from what I've heard about drive time, some of the local areas might not work that well) Local: Malibu Creek, Stoney Point ("local" classification depends on where in LA you are and what time you get off of work) Day Trip: Taquitz/Suicide, Jtree*, Woodson, various mediocre sport climbing (Quarry, Big Bear, NJC, Echo), Black Mountain/Tramway (might be a * for the boulderers) Weekend: Yosemite*, Needles*, Bishop and other eastside destinations*, High Sierra*, Tuolumne*, Red Rocks*, Tahoe* oops, forgot to add that within 8 hours there's also I-15 limestone (Clark Mtn., Vegas, VRG, St. George) and Flagstaff. Of course, I'd never go to Tahoe, Flag, St. George for a 2-day weekend, given everything that's closer.
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camhead
Mar 10, 2011, 7:28 PM
Post #85 of 99
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Yeah, I'm seeing that the classification of something as "local" is a bit hazy. When I think "local," I think of places like Logan Canyon in Northern Utah, Priest's Draw or The Pit in Flagstaff, or the Barton Creek Greenbelt in Austin. All of these places are decent half-day destinations, or quick after-work options. But, the bigger a city gets, the tougher it can be to have "after work" destinations. As we've seen, there are quite a few places within the greater Los Angeles area that could still take tow hours for "locals" to get to. If you live on the Southwest side of Vegas, Red Rocks might not be an after work option for you. And I still don't consider Boulder Canyon or Eldo to be "local" destinations for Denverites. For Boulderites, yes. If we narrow down "world class" destinations within an hour of a major city, this is the short list: El Paso NYC Las Vegas Lexington ... and maybe Charleston and Chattanooga
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petsfed
Mar 10, 2011, 7:33 PM
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dynosore wrote: In reply to: DENVER, CO Local: ? Day Trip: shit-ton of stuff, none gets a star though Weekend: Moab/Indian Creek*, Rifle*, Vedauvoo*, Black Canyon* Vedauwoo is less than 2 hours from Denver, hence day trip. Rifle is within your 3 hour limit too (barely). Snowy Range is near Vedauwoo and has a 1000 foot face and a lot of other climbing. Guess it depends on what you want to do, but I think Denver is a lot better than people are giving it credit for. Really? Maybe if you live on the extreme northern edge of Denver (Greeley, for example). Or if you ignore traffic laws, and happen to be driving when the traffic isn't bad (uh, when is I-25 not slowed down due to traffic density or construction these days?). Also, the climbing in the Snowies is a great many things, but for the amount of time spent driving to get there (its about an hour past Laramie), you could be a couple miles up the trail to Longs Peak, or a bunch of other stuff in RMNP, all of it of uniformly higher quality. Like I said to cracklover earlier, I think I was exaggerating quite a bit to call Denver terrible, but its more a good place to base roadtrips to world-class areas than to live and climb in.
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bigo
Mar 10, 2011, 7:54 PM
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camhead wrote: SEATTLE, WA Local: - Day Trip: Index, Leavenworth, Vantage Weekend: Squamish*, Smith Rock* Good List! I would add and re-organize Seattle a bit. Index is on the edge of the 1hour radius from Seattle, but people hit it after work in the summer so local it is. SEATTLE, WA Local: Index, Exit 32/38 Day Trip: Leavenworth, Vantage, Teiton, Darrington, Gold Bar, Various uber secrect local only crags ;) Weekend: Squamish*, Smith Rock*, Newhalem, N. Cascades
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dynosore
Mar 10, 2011, 8:05 PM
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If you want to take traffic into account, driving north from Denver pales in comparison to trying to get out of LA, NYC, or several others on the list. I always obey all local traffic laws . But I agree that the immediate climbing opps in the city are poor, hence I've chosen the Springs.
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marc801
Mar 10, 2011, 8:16 PM
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gmggg wrote: I'll fill in Boston but what's the more important criterion for "local" - <1hr. or within state limits? It should definitely be travel time based, and not state limits. Unlike Massachusetts, I can drive 5 hrs and still easily be within Utah.
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snoopy138
Mar 10, 2011, 8:29 PM
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camhead wrote: Yeah, I'm seeing that the classification of something as "local" is a bit hazy. When I think "local," I think of places like Logan Canyon in Northern Utah, Priest's Draw or The Pit in Flagstaff, or the Barton Creek Greenbelt in Austin. All of these places are decent half-day destinations, or quick after-work options. But, the bigger a city gets, the tougher it can be to have "after work" destinations. As we've seen, there are quite a few places within the greater Los Angeles area that could still take tow hours for "locals" to get to. If you live on the Southwest side of Vegas, Red Rocks might not be an after work option for you. And I still don't consider Boulder Canyon or Eldo to be "local" destinations for Denverites. For Boulderites, yes. If we narrow down "world class" destinations within an hour of a major city, this is the short list: El Paso NYC Las Vegas Lexington ... and maybe Charleston and Chattanooga Rat Rock is a world class destination? Because it's an hour and a half or more to the Gunks.
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gmggg
Mar 10, 2011, 8:37 PM
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marc801 wrote: gmggg wrote: I'll fill in Boston but what's the more important criterion for "local" - <1hr. or within state limits? It should definitely be travel time based, and not state limits. Unlike Massachusetts, I can drive 5 hrs and still easily be within Utah. That was a bit tongue in cheek. Since we've got two nation-class maybe world-class (if you believe the mags and don;t travel much) Bouldering locales at either end of our border and less than 1 hour away. Pretty much everything in the 100 some odd miles between the two is ho-hum.
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atg200
Mar 10, 2011, 8:56 PM
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snoopy138
Mar 10, 2011, 9:52 PM
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atg200 wrote: Why don't you consider Eldo or Boulder Canyon to be local for Denver? because he hates coloradiego.
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petsfed
Mar 11, 2011, 12:11 AM
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atg200 wrote: Why don't you consider Eldo or Boulder Canyon to be local for Denver? I can get to either of those places in a half hour from my house in downtown Denver, and Denverites climb there after work all the time. Castlewood Canyon is another fun local option for Denver. Kind of a very poor man's version of Maple Canyon. When I lived in Highlands Ranch, trying to get to Eldo between 3 and 6pm was a 2 hour drive. Not really "after work". On the other hand, the drive to my job (Rock'n & Jam'n) took about an hour to the north location, or 20 minutes for the south location, during the same period.
(This post was edited by petsfed on Mar 11, 2011, 12:12 AM)
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cracklover
Mar 11, 2011, 6:06 AM
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petsfed wrote: atg200 wrote: Why don't you consider Eldo or Boulder Canyon to be local for Denver? I can get to either of those places in a half hour from my house in downtown Denver, and Denverites climb there after work all the time. Castlewood Canyon is another fun local option for Denver. Kind of a very poor man's version of Maple Canyon. When I lived in Highlands Ranch, trying to get to Eldo between 3 and 6pm was a 2 hour drive. Not really "after work". On the other hand, the drive to my job (Rock'n & Jam'n) took about an hour to the north location, or 20 minutes for the south location, during the same period. That's bizarre. I'm all the way in Aurora (east of Denver), and the longest it's ever taken me to drive to boulder was an hour and forty minutes once, in the middle of a blizzard, with accidents everywhere. Typical is 50 minutes. GO
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atg200
Mar 11, 2011, 10:19 PM
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cracklover
Mar 11, 2011, 11:23 PM
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atg200 wrote: petsfed wrote: atg200 wrote: Why don't you consider Eldo or Boulder Canyon to be local for Denver? I can get to either of those places in a half hour from my house in downtown Denver, and Denverites climb there after work all the time. Castlewood Canyon is another fun local option for Denver. Kind of a very poor man's version of Maple Canyon. When I lived in Highlands Ranch, trying to get to Eldo between 3 and 6pm was a 2 hour drive. Not really "after work". On the other hand, the drive to my job (Rock'n & Jam'n) took about an hour to the north location, or 20 minutes for the south location, during the same period. Well, Highlands Ranch isn't Denver, nor does it come anywhere close to even bordering Denver. Cherry picking driving times from the most inconvenient suburb is a bit silly. Ah, that would explain it. Good catch. GO
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desertwanderer81
Mar 14, 2011, 3:15 PM
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skiclimb wrote: malieka wrote: I'm often surprised that Reno/Sparks isn't mentioned in conversations of this type. While the economy here isn't exactly booming, the greater metropolitan area has a population of about 500,00 along with the amenities/industry variety expected with a city of that size. Reno is close to so much quality rock it would be silly to name it all. But a sampling.... Donner - 45 min Eagle Lakes - 1.5 hr Woodfords - 1.5 hr Leap,Spires,Loaf - 2ish hr Tuolumne - 3.5 hr Rock Creek - 4 hr Bishop/Gorge - 4ish hr Granted, Reno is similar to SLC in that much of the rock is under snow for part of the year. But like SLC, these areas also offer world class winter sports opportunities. Plus, climbing can be found nearly year round within a 5 hour drive. Ditto .. find a better decent sized place closer to Yosemite? Seriously! I actually prefer Reno to Vegas as far as climbing cities go. 1) Yes, there is summer climbing in Vegas.... but Charleston isn't really that great. 2) The local culture in Reno is vastly superior to that of Vegas. 3) World class skiing! (even though this is a thread about climbing, not skiing...) 4) Trees! Oh, and I would say that Donner is about 25 minutes and the Leap about 1.5 hours away.... But maybe I just drive faster :D
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desertwanderer81
Mar 14, 2011, 3:27 PM
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RENO, NV Local:-Donner, (About 5 decent little crags) Day Trip: Lover's Leap, (About 30 pretty decent crags worth a day or two at) Weekend: Bishop*, Yosemite* I have definitely headed off to Donner after work several times. And really, if the Gunks is a "World Class Destination", then Donner and the Leap are too, heh.
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