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justroberto
Mar 9, 2011, 8:23 PM
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TheBishop wrote: camhead wrote: TheBishop wrote: I have not heard it mentioned much on this site, but Nashville is actually a pretty good climbing city. Pros: fairly quick access to all the great climbing in east Tennessee: Obed, Foster Falls, T-Wall, and many others. Close to King's Bluff. Not too far from Red River either. And Arkansas climbing is not too insanely far away for weekend trips. Good weather, long climbing season, can climb through the winter if you don't mind a bit of cold. Cons: Only King's Bluff is within that 1-2 hour drive. From downtown Nashville it's about 45 minutes. East Tenn climbing is about 3 hours, RRG about 4. I would suggest Chattanooga, but you said major city. I suppose that if everyone is mentioning "passable" climbing cities that are big, such as Nashville, Phoenix, etc., we would have to include Atlanta, GA, as well. Within 2-3 hours of a lot of really good Southeastern Rock, local bouldering at Boatrock. I'm sure summers would suck, though. Just curious, but what exactly makes Nashville only "passable?"
Atlanta blows on all fronts, imo, unless living in one of the shittiest cities in America is your cup of tea. I'd much rather be in Nashville (or even Birmingham, for that matter).
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shockabuku
Mar 9, 2011, 9:09 PM
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Atlanta does, I think, have the biggest route climbing gym in the country.
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yves
Mar 9, 2011, 9:40 PM
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I totally second NYC which has high quality ice-climbing (still "climbing") and pretty good skis if you are willing to take a break from all that ice and rock ...
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sandstoned
Mar 9, 2011, 9:53 PM
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shockabuku wrote: Atlanta does, I think, have the biggest route climbing gym in the country.
Well holy shit, that changes everything!
I thought I would jump in here since I am looking to relocate as well. I have friends in NM that swear I am missing out down there, in the Santa Fe region. Anyone have knowledge of that area they care to share? And to the other people following this topic that are considering a move, I will cue you in on what I consider to be one of my best sources of information for road tripping and relocating: "Rock and Road" by Tim Toula. While not perfect, this book has almost all significant areas in North America listed, the amount of climbing, and a short description of each, as well as the length of the season. And while I know that this place will not compare with places out west, what are some opinions on Fayetteville/Charleston area in WV? Not my first choice, but it is closer to my family and I have been considering adding it to my list of possibilities.
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gosharks
Mar 9, 2011, 9:53 PM
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cracklover wrote: If you are a solid 5.10- climber who can get up 5.11 on a good day (which really isn't saying that much) I would put Eldo up against anything in the immediate Salt Lake area. It's certainly as good or better than Little or Big Cottonwood.
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cracklover
Mar 9, 2011, 10:13 PM
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gosharks wrote: cracklover wrote: If you are a solid 5.10- climber who can get up 5.11 on a good day (which really isn't saying that much) I would put Eldo up against anything in the immediate Salt Lake area. It's certainly as good or better than Little or Big Cottonwood. What about American Fork?
I haven't climbed there. I'm not sure of your question. Are you saying it changes the equation and makes the Salt Lake area more of a world-class destination?
GO
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marc801
Mar 9, 2011, 10:23 PM
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cracklover wrote: gosharks wrote: cracklover wrote: If you are a solid 5.10- climber who can get up 5.11 on a good day (which really isn't saying that much) I would put Eldo up against anything in the immediate Salt Lake area. It's certainly as good or better than Little or Big Cottonwood. What about American Fork? I haven't climbed there. I'm not sure of your question. Are you saying it changes the equation and makes the Salt Lake area more of a world-class destination?
Local to SLC:
Big CC
Little CC
American Fork
Various summer alpine routes of various lengths between 7K' - 11K' elevation
Within 2 hrs:
High Uintas
Maple Canyon
Ibex
Joe's Valley
Logan Canyon
Within 3 - 4 hrs:
Moab
City of Rocks & Castle Rock
Indian Creek
Some new areas in eastern NV
Areas outside Beaver and Cedar City
Within 5-6 hrs:
Zion
Tetons
St. George
Red Rocks NV
Virgin River Gorge
Areas in the Arizona Strip
Telluride/Ophir and environs
Black Canyon
Additional Idaho areas
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justroberto
Mar 9, 2011, 10:26 PM
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camhead wrote: sandstoned wrote: And while I know that this place will not compare with places out west, what are some opinions on Fayetteville/Charleston area in WV? Not my first choice, but it is closer to my family and I have been considering adding it to my list of possibilities. Charleston (the only thing I would really call a city in WV) would be pretty nice for climbing. The NRG is definitely a destination crag, and it's about an hour away (in other words, about like downtown Denver to Eldo); definitely do-able for day trips. RRG is less than 3 hrs., all the great NC crags are 3-4 hours. The only thing Charleston has lacking is a local crag suitable for after-work jaunts. A friend of mine is even in the process of building the city's first climbing gym there.
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gosharks
Mar 9, 2011, 10:39 PM
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cracklover wrote: gosharks wrote: cracklover wrote: If you are a solid 5.10- climber who can get up 5.11 on a good day (which really isn't saying that much) I would put Eldo up against anything in the immediate Salt Lake area. It's certainly as good or better than Little or Big Cottonwood. What about American Fork? I haven't climbed there. I'm not sure of your question. Are you saying it changes the equation and makes the Salt Lake area more of a world-class destination? GO
So, yes.
(This post was edited by gosharks on Mar 9, 2011, 10:41 PM)
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cracklover
Mar 9, 2011, 10:49 PM
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marc801 wrote: cracklover wrote: gosharks wrote: cracklover wrote: If you are a solid 5.10- climber who can get up 5.11 on a good day (which really isn't saying that much) I would put Eldo up against anything in the immediate Salt Lake area. It's certainly as good or better than Little or Big Cottonwood. What about American Fork? I haven't climbed there. I'm not sure of your question. Are you saying it changes the equation and makes the Salt Lake area more of a world-class destination? Local to SLC: Big CC Little CC American Fork Various summer alpine routes of various lengths between 7K' - 11K' elevation Within 2 hrs: High Uintas Maple Canyon Ibex Joe's Valley Logan Canyon Within 3 - 4 hrs: Moab City of Rocks & Castle Rock Indian Creek Some new areas in eastern NV Areas outside Beaver and Cedar City Within 5-6 hrs: Zion Tetons St. George Red Rocks NV Virgin River Gorge Areas in the Arizona Strip Telluride/Ophir and environs Black Canyon Additional Idaho areas
Don't misunderstand me - I'm not suggesting that Denver is a better city to live in as a climber than Salt Lake. On the contrary, IMO, Salt Lake is the clear winner over any other major city.
I was referring to the specific argument being made about Denver not having any world-class climbing in its back yard. I'm not going to rehash that whole argument though.
GO
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caughtinside
Mar 9, 2011, 10:59 PM
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cracklover wrote: marc801 wrote: cracklover wrote: gosharks wrote: cracklover wrote: If you are a solid 5.10- climber who can get up 5.11 on a good day (which really isn't saying that much) I would put Eldo up against anything in the immediate Salt Lake area. It's certainly as good or better than Little or Big Cottonwood. What about American Fork? I haven't climbed there. I'm not sure of your question. Are you saying it changes the equation and makes the Salt Lake area more of a world-class destination? Local to SLC: Big CC Little CC American Fork Various summer alpine routes of various lengths between 7K' - 11K' elevation Within 2 hrs: High Uintas Maple Canyon Ibex Joe's Valley Logan Canyon Within 3 - 4 hrs: Moab City of Rocks & Castle Rock Indian Creek Some new areas in eastern NV Areas outside Beaver and Cedar City Within 5-6 hrs: Zion Tetons St. George Red Rocks NV Virgin River Gorge Areas in the Arizona Strip Telluride/Ophir and environs Black Canyon Additional Idaho areas Don't misunderstand me - I'm not suggesting that Denver is a better city to live in as a climber than Salt Lake. On the contrary, IMO, Salt Lake is the clear winner over any other major city. I was referring to the specific argument being made about Denver not having any world-class climbing in its back yard. I'm not going to rehash that whole argument though. GO
Would eldo receive a quarter of the traffic if it was a 2 hour drive? I'm on the fence about that one.
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camhead
Mar 9, 2011, 11:01 PM
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Ok, I'm putting together a list of decent climbing cities that are core metropolitan areas (so, no Flagstaff or Chattanooga, though those places would take the gold medal no problem).
Using the criteria of three tiers of climbing: LOCAL (within or right outside city limits, less than an hour away), DAY TRIP (within 3 hours drive), and WEEKEND (within 6-8 hours). I've starred areas I think are nationally renowned destinations.
No particular order. Feel free to criticize/add to it.
LAS VEGAS, NV
Local: Red Rocks*
Day Trip: Virgin River Gorge*, Mt. Charleston
Weekend: Jtree*, Zion*
LOS ANGELES, CA (though from what I've heard about drive time, some of the local areas might not work that well)
Local: Malibu Creek, Tick Rock, Stony Point
Day Trip: Taquitz/Suicide, Jtree*,
Weekend: Yosemite*, Needles*
SEATTLE, WA
Local: -
Day Trip: Index, Leavenworth, Vantage
Weekend: Squamish*, Smith Rock*
RENO, NV
Local:-
Day Trip: Lover's Leap, Donner
Weekend: Bishop*, Yosemite*
SALT LAKE CITY:
Local: Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons
Day Trip: Maple Canyon*, Uintas, American Fork Canyon
Weekend: City of Rocks*, Tetons*, Ibex, Joe's Valley, Red Rocks*, Indian Creek*, Zion*
DENVER, CO
Local: ?
Day Trip: shit-ton of stuff, none gets a star though
Weekend: Moab/Indian Creek*, Rifle*, Vedauvoo*, Black Canyon*
ALBUQUERQUE, NM
Local: Sandias?
Day Trip: Enchanted Tower
Weekend: Hueco Tanks*, Shelf Road, Indian Creek*
PHOENIX, AZ:
Local: -
Day Trip: Queen Creek, Homestead, Cochise Stronghold, Paradise Forks, Sedona, Priest Draw
Weekend: Red Rocks*, Jtree*, Hueco*, Indian Creek*
AUSTIN, TX:
Local: Green Belt, McKinney Falls, many others
Day Trip: Reimer's Ranch, Enchanted Rock
Weekend: Potrero Chico*, Wichitas, Continental Ranch
NASHVILLE, TN:
Local: -
Day Trip: T-wall*, Obed
Weekend: RRG*, NRG*, HP40, various NC crags
CHARLESTON, WV:
Local: -
Day Trip: New River Gorge*
Weekend: RRG*, NC, Seneca, Coopers Rock, T-wall*, HP40
ATLANTA, GA:
Local: Boatrock
Day Trip: T-wall*, Rocktown
Weekend: HP40, RRG*, NRG*, NC
WASHINGTON DC:
local: -
day trip: Carderock, Old Rag
Weekend: NRG*, NC, Seneca
CINCINATTI, OH
local: -
Day Trip: RRG*
Weekend: NRG*, T-wall*, NC, Obed
NEW YORK CITY:
Local: Rat Rock!
Day Trip: Gunks*
Weekend: Seneca, Rumney, Cathedral
That's about all I can think of off the top of my head, time to get off the computer. Someone should make a spreadsheet of these.
What about Chicago, Boston, Boise, Madison, Twin Cities?
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gosharks
Mar 9, 2011, 11:12 PM
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camhead wrote: SALT LAKE CITY: Local: Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons Day Trip: Maple Canyon*, Uintas, American Fork Canyon Weekend: City of Rocks*, Tetons*, Ibex, Joe's Valley, Red Rocks*, Indian Creek*, Zion*
(This post was edited by gosharks on Mar 9, 2011, 11:13 PM)
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happiegrrrl
Mar 9, 2011, 11:18 PM
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In reply to: NEW YORK CITY: Local: Rat Rock! Day Trip: Gunks* Weekend: Seneca, Rumney, Cathedral
Don't forget the Daks for weekends. And if you include the airport option....pretty much every other crag you listed in the entire post(kidding, of course, but one CAN go to Red Rock, for example) on a long weekend.
But I know the OP says that he wants(it seems) very close by climbing, pretty much year round.
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vegastradguy
Mar 9, 2011, 11:22 PM
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camhead wrote: LAS VEGAS, NV Local: Red Rocks* Day Trip: Virgin River Gorge*, Mt. Charleston Weekend: Jtree*, Zion*
More like:
Local: Red Rock, Mt. Charleston (its only about 40mins away), Keyhole Canyon (30mins).
Day Trip: VRG, St. George, Zion, JTree, Arrow Canyon, Paradise Forks.
Weekend: Taquhitz, LA Area in general, Bishop, Yosemite, Tuolomne, Needles, Sierra in general, SLC area, Moab, IC, Tucson area, Flagstaff area.
its kind of ridiculous the amount of rock that is floating around within 8hrs of vegas.
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camhead
Mar 9, 2011, 11:39 PM
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vegastradguy wrote: camhead wrote: LAS VEGAS, NV Local: Red Rocks* Day Trip: Virgin River Gorge*, Mt. Charleston Weekend: Jtree*, Zion* More like: Local: Red Rock, Mt. Charleston (its only about 40mins away), Keyhole Canyon (30mins). Day Trip: VRG, St. George, Zion, JTree, Arrow Canyon, Paradise Forks. Weekend: Taquhitz, LA Area in general, Bishop, Yosemite, Tuolomne, Needles, Sierra in general, SLC area, Moab, IC, Tucson area, Flagstaff area. its kind of ridiculous the amount of rock that is floating around within 8hrs of vegas.
Yeah, any local could add similar additions to their respective cities. I was just trying to give a snapshot of different grades of local, day trip, and weekend opportunities.
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cracklover
Mar 10, 2011, 12:09 AM
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camhead wrote: DENVER, CO Local: ? Day Trip: shit-ton of stuff, none gets a star though Weekend: Moab/Indian Creek*, Rifle*, Vedauvoo*, Black Canyon*
You're missing a lot, and have a few things miscategorized. Here's my take on
DENVER, CO
Local: Clear Creek Canyon, North Table, Eldo (borderline *), Boulder Canyon, and a lot of bouldering
Day Trip: Estes Park/Lumpy*, Shelf Road, The South Platte (borderline*), and a shit-ton of other stuff that doesn't get a star
Weekend: RMNP*, Ten Sleep*, Devil's Tower, a ton of stuff on the Western Slope (like Escalante), a ton of stuff in Utah (like The San Rafael Swell), and the ones you mentioned - Moab/Indian Creek*, Rifle*, Vedauvoo*, Black Canyon*
BOSTON, MA
Local: Quincy Quarries, Black and White Rocks, Hammond Pond, Rattlesnake Rocks.
Day Trip: Rumney, North Conway, Cannon, and a few decent bouldering areas.
Weekend: The Gunks*
GO
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shockabuku
Mar 10, 2011, 2:18 PM
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Well, it might, depending on what you're looking for.
Santa Fe isn't top tier but there's climbing within reasonable distances.
Diablo Canyon is real close, White Rock and the other Los Alamos areas are probably around 1/2 hour away, there's a few areas up in the Jemez Mountains that are probably an hour to an hour and a half. The Taos and (more) northern NM areas are easy day trip distance. The Sandias (Albuquerque) are easy day trip distance. The Enchanted Tower is pushing it for a day trip but definitely good for a weekend. Shelf Road is maybe 5 hours, Penitente is up there maybe 4-5 hours I would guess. Summer is hot. Not like Phoenix hot, but still uncomfortably warm. That's a good time to head to the Sandias or some higher elevation places. Santa Fe has a small gym if that factors into your "equation".
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blueeyedclimber
Mar 10, 2011, 2:32 PM
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I can't BELIEVE no one has mentioned Boston as the place to be, what with Quincy Quarries just a stone's throw away. 
Seriously, though, Boston is not that bad. But, I would only seriously consider it if you got a SPECTACULAR job that allowed time and money to travel.
Here are some of the best rock and time to get to from Boston:
Gunks - 4 hours
North Conway 2.5 hours
Rumney 2 hours
Cannon 2.5 hours
Adirondacks 4 hours
Acadia 5 hours
So, not exactly in the running for great climbing city, but there are worse places indeed.
Josh
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shockabuku
Mar 10, 2011, 2:34 PM
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ALBUQUERQUE, NM
Local: Sandias (though more of a day trip), Palomas, U Mound
Day Trip: Enchanted Tower, Diablo Canyon, Las Conchas, Gillman Tunnels, Tres Piedras, Questa Dome, White Rock, El Rito, The Pond, others.
Weekend: Hueco Tanks*, Shelf Road, Indian Creek*, Rifle*, Penitente
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sandstoned
Mar 10, 2011, 2:56 PM
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Allright, thanks. A lot of those names are of places I have only heard of through MtnProj, but a few look good enough. I am thinking that after this summer I will take a tour of the front range and head down to NM to have a look; if that doesn't suit me then perhaps I will drive on over to WV. I'm really not sure where we'll end up, but I do know that this was my last winter in MT. Props to all the wonderful folks up here who like these winters enough to be around for every glorious spring, summer, and fall; they're too much for me though.
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marc801
Mar 10, 2011, 3:03 PM
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sandstoned wrote: And while I know that this place will not compare with places out west, what are some opinions on Fayetteville/Charleston area in WV? Not my first choice, but it is closer to my family and I have been considering adding it to my list of possibilities.
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camhead
Mar 10, 2011, 3:04 PM
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Also, my original list did not take into account seasonal variety. For the most part, in the East it is harder to find good climbing in the summer, due to oppressive humidity, and the weather is much worse. Not only does it rain more, but weather patterns are larger, meaning that if it is raining at one destination, it is probably raining at another, too.
In other words, Western climbing areas sacrifice a bit of overall rock quality (especially in terms of sport), in exchange for higher chances of good climbing year-round.
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justroberto
Mar 10, 2011, 3:12 PM
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WV is great, but Charleston is in no way a major city. Chattanooga, while small, is still considerably larger, if that's a factor in your decision.
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