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jakedatc
May 22, 2007, 4:41 PM
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How about rumney for the weekend?
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huktoncrack
May 22, 2007, 7:16 PM
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Long time no post,
Rachel and I are heading out to the Gunks ASAP on Friday to take full advantage of Saturdays weather. We got a guide for Sunday, trying to switch it to Saturday b/c of the weather. Learning to trad lead in a thunderstorm wouldn't be so nice (Although self-rescue might be good to learn ). We plan on meeting up with losbill and some others out there. Any recommendations for first leads? I know there's roughly 1.5 million 5.5's and below out there but I'd like to try something easy, rated G, and still fun.
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lewdsilver
May 22, 2007, 7:24 PM
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rob - I'll definitely be looking to head out to CR in the next few weeks.
please keep droping the heads ups! Hopefully I can make it out next week. I will bring a headlamp!
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core
May 22, 2007, 10:47 PM
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Hey Kurt...haven't seen you guys in a while.
I think Three Pines (maybe you've already done it) is a great first lead. It's easy dihedral climbing (no route finding issues) on big holds. (Consider running the first pitch all the way up to the GT ledge.) Since you're in the corner you won't get too distracted by exposure, and that will let you stay focused on climbing and gear placement. You'll also have trees for anchors, so you wont have to worry about building a gear anchor either.
Don't foget to extend you tie-in at the cliff top so you can communicate with your second!
(This post was edited by core on May 22, 2007, 10:47 PM)
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jakedatc
May 22, 2007, 11:05 PM
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Rumney,
Friday 84 sunny, sat. 73 partly cloudy, sunday 69 cloudy with 30% chance of showers but seems to be fading..
no one? i thought people like.. climbed or something
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core
May 22, 2007, 11:08 PM
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I'm out of town all weekend (non-climbing) hope you all get some nice weather (and partners)!
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notch
May 23, 2007, 12:35 AM
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I'll agree with 3 Pines. It's a nice long walk which sometimes helps to thin the crowd, too. I climbed Andrew late last year and loved it. It'll swallow gear and the moves are pretty fun. 5.4
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olderic
May 23, 2007, 1:47 AM
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jakedatc wrote: Rumney, no one? i thought people like.. climbed or something
That's cause everybody who is anybody will be at Acadia this weekend. Geesh get with the program Jake. Actually the crowds at Otter Cliffs will probably make the PL Wall look like a wilderness experience in comparison. Fortunately I still know some off the beaten track places on Mt Desert.....
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olderic
May 23, 2007, 1:49 AM
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notch wrote: I'll agree with 3 Pines. It's a nice long walk which sometimes helps to thin the crowd, too. I climbed Andrew late last year and loved it. It'll swallow gear and the moves are pretty fun. 5.4
Just beware of the bird closure arounnd the GT ledge in that area.
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jakedatc
May 23, 2007, 2:10 AM
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I've got one hopeful for the weekend.. and hopefully he can go earlier.. like thurs or fri.. get in some of the normally cluster fuck areas out of the way and then be stealthy for the sat/sun craziness..
maybe they'll all be at Otter and rumney will be good (HA like that'll happen)
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robbovius
May 23, 2007, 12:29 PM
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notch wrote: I'll agree with 3 Pines. It's a nice long walk which sometimes helps to thin the crowd, too. I climbed Andrew late last year and loved it. It'll swallow gear and the moves are pretty fun. 5.4
Both are on my list for this year...
no away climbing for me this weekend. I'm thinking of dusting off my rope solo skillz (gotta get that new chest harness dirty!) at either Purgatory or Lookout on friday, and then a nice day of leading and TR-ing some faves at Purgatory with OP Shane on saturday.
Eric good to see you last night at CR. fun times.
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jumaringjeff
May 23, 2007, 12:31 PM
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Three Pines was my first multipitch trad lead ever. What a great climb. Highly recommended! Take a breather at the first ledge but definitely link the first 2 pitches.
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core
May 23, 2007, 12:54 PM
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Andrew is a great route, especially the first and last pitches. I would worry a bit about a new leader (someone looking for their first leads) on the pitch pictured (P2/3). It might not be so bad if the second has experience in leading/rescue, though. This pitch can feel “run out”, and you have to build a gear anchor at the top of it. Then again, all you have to do is tell yourself "it's only 5.4, it's only 5.4." 
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cindylou
May 23, 2007, 10:06 PM
Post #19164 of 22774
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Some of us Coloradans will be in The Gunks starting tomorrow (5-24 through 5-29). Can someone tell me if Three Pines is closed due to nesting birds?
If anyone would like to meet for a beer, let us know.
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core
May 23, 2007, 10:19 PM
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http://www.mohonkpreserve.org wrote: Late Breaking News 4/21/07 - Attention Climbers! The section of the Trapps cliff from the climbs “Broken Hammer” (5.3) to “The Blue Stink” (5.3) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. Peregrine Falcons are attempting to nest in this vicinity. Please refrain from climbing this area of the Trapps until further notice. Thank you for your cooperation.
HTH
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jakedatc
May 24, 2007, 2:33 AM
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Oh well.. looks like i'll have to wait until next weekend and hope to hell it doesn't rain. Couldn't find anyone for Thurs or friday so it won't work out..
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cracklover
May 24, 2007, 3:53 AM
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Hey, Cindy is good people!
Bummed I won't get to see you, Cind. Too bad about the timing.
Ya'll have fun at the Gunks!
GO
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olderic
May 24, 2007, 5:23 PM
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core wrote: http://www.mohonkpreserve.org wrote: Late Breaking News 4/21/07 - Attention Climbers! The section of the Trapps cliff from the climbs “Broken Hammer” (5.3) to “The Blue Stink” (5.3) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. Peregrine Falcons are attempting to nest in this vicinity. Please refrain from climbing this area of the Trapps until further notice. Thank you for your cooperation. HTH
not officialy closed but sensative:
http://www.gunks.com/ubbthreads7/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/28827/page/1#Post28827
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cindylou
May 25, 2007, 12:59 AM
Post #19169 of 22774
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Thanks for the info.
Gabe: yeah, sorry I'll miss you. I can't believe the one time I come out east, you won't be around to climb. Guess you'll just have to travel to Colorado again. BTW, I sold my RV, Lucille. But, don't worry, there's room in the house if you're ever in town.
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creekyphil
May 25, 2007, 1:41 AM
Post #19170 of 22774
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Friday afternoon climbing anyone? Gotta work til 3, so I'm thinking QQ, Rattlesnake, maybe House Rock in Weymouth.
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robbovius
May 25, 2007, 2:29 PM
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I'll be out this afternoon meself, though most likely at College Rock, getting my .9-y training on.
BTW, a significant goal achieved: 190 on the scale this AM, down 12 fricken pounds since 3/1 woo hoo!
No wonder the CR traverse felt so easy, I mean, a bit less difficult, last wed night. heh.
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jakedatc
May 25, 2007, 2:56 PM
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Rob..you should give some harder stuff a try man... Give the top of Mind is a blank a shot.. go up the .7 corner and then across the big crack to go up the roof..(i'd say plug a cam or something in the horizontal and try the bottom but that might flare up your elbow) or give Lil Devil a go.. there is only one really bad hold, the rest is body position. Those are a couple things that just need to be projected and beta worked out.. i think you have the strength for at least lil devil.. MIAB roof is tough
no climbing for me till tomorrow.. LW should be a fun grease fest
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robbovius
May 25, 2007, 8:59 PM
Post #19173 of 22774
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Jake, harder stuff is in the plan , man ;-) I gave up on the techno dweebn .10 back in 03 becasue i had no technique to speak of, but, I feel a bunch more confident now about my ability to hang on to the little stuff.
Alot of this weight-loss thing has to do with my endurance on multipitch though. I had fun on gelsa last year, but I was shagged at the end.
anyway, this is shaping up to be a good season...;-)
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jakedatc
May 26, 2007, 8:02 PM
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Well.. today was a workout day at the woods.. to freaking hot to think about sending anything new. I did give one good burn on loadies but was too hot to do much after that. Did get to hang out with jon from RWU and his friend and met up with the nOOb himself monsieur Joel. Homard.
Rumney next weekend. thank dinojesus.. summer LW bouldering = pain
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wideguy
May 26, 2007, 10:29 PM
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jakedatc wrote: Well.. today was a workout day at the woods.. to freaking hot to think about sending anything new. I did give one good burn on loadies but was too hot to do much after that. Did get to hang out with jon from RWU and his friend and met up with the nOOb himself monsieur Joel. Homard. Rumney next weekend. thank dinojesus.. summer LW bouldering = pain
And bonus, you didn't get stabbed!
In reply to: LINCOLN, R.I. (AP) - Police are investigating a stabbing at the beach at Lincoln Woods state park. The incident was yesterday near a changing room at the beach. The victim, described only as a teenager, was stabbed by a suspect with a machete. |
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