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robbovius
May 17, 2007, 5:08 PM
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Upstairs for me. ;-)
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lewdsilver
May 17, 2007, 5:15 PM
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hola - long time reader, infrequent poster.
lookin to get more into trad ASAP, so me and 2 friends have signed up for the EMS School for June 2nd/3rd up @ North Conway.
Anyone have any feedback on back experiences with EMS up there or if there are better folks for a learn to lead/trad classes than EMS.
I did my first outdoor climb in '05 up @ cathedral with robbovious, pirate, cracklover, orangeyak (thanks again for taking me and my sis up on that multipitch), and many more - since then I have been so amped to get back there - psyched, Can't wait! 
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losbill
May 17, 2007, 10:40 PM
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Well my luck with finding partners on the web continues. Rhonius (Aaron) proved to be a excellent climber and even better company. Our little group also included Alan the Jammer and my friend Jeff.
Picked up Brian in the Meadows in the morning. He turned out to be a terrific guy who despite climbing about 6+ letter grades less than he is capable since he was climbing with us was very pleasant and supportive the entire day. Too bad you didn't make it up Jake. You would have actually had somebody to climb with!
Here Alan belays Aaron on The Junco while Jeff and Brian look on.
Everybody was climbing very well but not pushing it too hard since we were all working early season kinks out and attempting to get some conditioning. Nobody wanted any flash pumps. Did the usual stuff at the PL Wall and the Meadows and headed for Jimmy Cliff.
Here is a shot of Aaron moving up The Junco.
It was a little busy. However the only wait for a climb all day was when somebody spent about an hour leading Lonesome Dove. We gave up on it pretty quickly and climbed The Junco and Nuthatch and TRed Hammond Organ that Brian had led.
Brian worked Things As They Are Now. The rest of us practiced repetitively falling off the first move. He eventually got the match but was too pumped to deal with the sloper section above. He took a rest hauled up the rope to the match and did the upper section. Brian did the move to the match statically using the undercling out right. Pretty impressive strength. Aaron cruised Things As They Are on TR in between the falling practice.
Here is Brian threading the rings at the top of Things ...
Finished up on Space and Yer Anus.
Here I am making a clip on Space.
First time all day I rushed a clip. Got the clip but ended up in a very awkward position with the predictable result. Should have stepped up and got a better stance before clipping. Thanks for the solid catch Alan! Now Jake and Eric, what's this "wasted" thing I have been hearing about and what does it have to do with clipping???? Do you think it could improve my climbing?
Enjoyed beer (Thanks Aaron), burgers, dogs and beans in the PL to finish off an excellent day.
Very likely headed up to Rumney again on Monday. If anyone is interested in coming along drop me a PM.
(This post was edited by losbill on May 17, 2007, 10:47 PM)
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jakedatc
May 17, 2007, 11:42 PM
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Nice bill! Space was good times.. airy eh? The only time i waist clip is when i skip a bolt and kate yells at me.. and thats usually ankle clipping at that point ;)
Not sure of his beta but i can't picture what he's matching on on Things.. I don't use the undercling at all(i bump my left hand to the top of the L sidepulls, high step L foot, toss right handed to the ledge) and the top part is a piece of cake after you've done it once. i'd say it's like 10b climbing at that point just committing.
where do you live bill? Any chance of carpooling if i met you somewhere? i might be down for a monday + trip.. weather looks nice
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losbill
May 18, 2007, 2:00 AM
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Space is great. A lot of character for a relatively short climb. I really blew it. Got really messed up with the feet. Got tired of hanging out and trying to sort the feet out and dynoed for the jug above the clip and missed. Duh! When I restarted I immediately found holds out left I had missed.
Regarding Things ..., your right hand toss is what I call the match. The heavily chalked hold 20" above the 1st bolt. One guy from a group that we had run across in the Meadows, met on again on the right side and followed us over to the Alcove asked to tie in for the TR. He was unbelievable. Stepped up to the two wide pinches like to was nothing, got the high right foot as you describe and just popped up to the the "match". There are some really phenomenal climbers at Rumney. Brian said the part just above the first clip is more difficult, 10d, than it looks.
Just confirmed plans for Rumney on Monday. Shooting for the parking lot at 9 AM. Kevin and I will be at Exit 6, Hollis, NH exit; off Route 3 about 7:20 - 7:30 AM. There is a big shopping center there where you could leave your truck.
Not sure what you meant by a "monday + plus trip". We are day tripping it. But we do plan on getting a full day in. You are welcome to stay a my house here in Groton Sunday night (coming) or Monday night (returning)if it would make it more doable for you.
Hope you can make it.
Bill
(This post was edited by losbill on May 18, 2007, 2:08 AM)
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jakedatc
May 18, 2007, 2:33 AM
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The moves you do after the 2nd bolt( first one you actually clip) are sequencey but for me not that bad. but i have also worked it out a couple times and it looks like he's taller.. so the move i do is a high rock over so he may have other beta.
edit: i also just thought that maybe we are talking about 2 different routes.. was he working the 12 or the 10 corner to the R of it?
we'll see how i feel after the gym sat. and let you know about mon.
(This post was edited by jakedatc on May 18, 2007, 4:33 AM)
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robbovius
May 18, 2007, 11:58 AM
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lewdsilver wrote: hola - long time reader, infrequent poster. lookin to get more into trad ASAP, so me and 2 friends have signed up for the EMS School for June 2nd/3rd up @ North Conway. Anyone have any feedback on back experiences with EMS up there or if there are better folks for a learn to lead/trad classes than EMS. I did my first outdoor climb in '05 up @ cathedral with robbovious, pirate, cracklover, orangeyak (thanks again for taking me and my sis up on that multipitch), and many more - since then I have been so amped to get back there - psyched, Can't wait!
heyyy!!! I remember you and your sis, adn the good times @ cathedral ;-)
hopefully we can hook up for soem NoCo multipitch this summer.
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carpediem
May 18, 2007, 9:05 PM
Post #19133 of 22774
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Hey Guys haven't been on in awhile, but I am in need of some climbers to work with me. I own a Cedar Roof Preservation Company and need some knowledgeable people that know knots and rope managment and safety first!
I know most of you on here have jobs, but if you know of anyone that has some skills in rigging and not afraid of heights and wants to work outside for the summer PLEASE PM or email me directly...
info@necedar.com
www.necedar.com to see some work...
Pay starts out good and there is room to make more!!!
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notch
May 18, 2007, 11:23 PM
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lewdsilver wrote: Anyone have any feedback on back experiences with EMS up there or if there are better folks for a learn to lead/trad classes than EMS.
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robertawerner
May 19, 2007, 3:18 AM
Post #19135 of 22774
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A few questions about the area:
Is there a good place to rent equipment (harness and shoes) for the day (for outdoor, not in gym)?
What are the essential guide books for New England crags?
I'm sure the guidebook will help with this, but I've heard Quincy Quarries is all TR, is this a good place to teach new people? Easy climbs, easy access anchors, etc
Do people hang out at the gyms around Boston on bad weather days? Good way to meet climbing partners, or is that a whole different crowd?
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jakedatc
May 19, 2007, 5:16 AM
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Boston Rocks book.. covers a bunch in MA.. Rumney guide if you go north for sport, gunks Grey Dick williams guide if you go west for trad.. White mountain guide again if you go north for trad.. New england boulder guide if you want to boulder around the whole NE
QQ is generally TR yes.. i'd suggest a weekday during the summer. though i havent been in a few years so im just guessing it's still a zoo
might be able to get some guys on here to show you around a bit
call BRG or Metrorock to find out if they rent out gear.. Bostonrockgym.com and Metrorock.com to figure out who is closer to ya
depends where you live.. metrorock in everett or newburyport.. Boston rock gym in Woburn.. Rhode island rock gym in Lincoln, RI or Carabiners in New bedford.. pick your poison
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notch
May 19, 2007, 11:38 AM
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Jake pretty much covered it. The second edition of Boston Rocks, written by Richard Doucette and Susan Ruff, published by the MIT Outing Club is the definitive guide to climbing in eastern Mass. You'll be able to get it at any of the gyms as well as EMS. Not sure about REI. The best thing about this guide is how many areas it has in it which are not Quincy Quarries. Personal bias perhaps, but given the crowds and high n00b/gumby factor, I always felt like I was constantly one minute from a 911 call.
I've personally spent a lot of fun afternoons at Black and White rocks, and some great days out at Crow Hill. Rob will attest to the fun to be had at College Rock and Purgatory. I'd encourage getting to as many crags in that book as possible, even if they don't seem to be 3 star areas.
As far as rental, I think you used to be able to do that at BRG, but with the new ownership I'm not sure if that's still possible. Heck, shop the REI garage sale and EMS sales for returned shoes, add to that a $40 one size fits all harness and you'll never need to rent again.
Lastly, I've found partners much more successfully through this sight than I did at either BRG or Metro. YMMV.
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robbovius
May 19, 2007, 2:51 PM
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Robert, I'll add my vote about the BR guide to Jake and Notch. I got mine at REI.
QUincy is a fine metro crag. yeah, it' gets busy on weekends, but, that's because iot's accessible and in an area of high population density. some people hate crowds, some people don't mind 'em, I am of the latter mindset. If you climb at Purgatory (weekday and saturday only allowed, gotta get a freebie permit from the rangers), you'll have to put up with questions and spectating from the masses of day hikers...some folks like an audience (raising hand) some don't.
I would also add my vote to finding partners here or at the crag, as opposed to gyms, but then, I haven't been to a gym regularly (besides my attic bouldering wall) since Gravity RG in Flanklin closed in 2003.
as far as renting gear... uh, I wouldn't. I've got a BD momentum AL with a single season's use on it that's been sitting in my closet for over a year. $20 and it's yours. what size shoe do you take? I've got a pair of size 10.5 Mad Rock Flashes (very tight on my 10.5 street size feet) that still have much life left in them, good rubber on the soles, and most importantly, they don't stink. might not be new, but they still climb fine...thoughsince I now have 4 pairs of shoes, I haven't worn them in over a year. another $20, and you're geared up. then all ya need is a bvelay device. which BTW... ;-) suffice to say I have several of those too. more than I can use at one time, in fact. PM me if you're interested.
see ya at the crags!
(This post was edited by robbovius on May 19, 2007, 2:53 PM)
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robertawerner
May 19, 2007, 3:52 PM
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Thanks for all the suggestions.
With rental gear, I wasn't asking for myself, I have more than enough of my own equipment, was asking for bringing out new climbers that aren't close to my size. I was thinking about picking up a harness, but shoes are the difficult part.
I'm mixed on crowds. If they are polite and interested, its fun to tell them whats up, but there are some that are just beyond obnoxious. There was a group at Jackson falls in southern Illinois that would come by on horseback. They were super loud, they brought a boombox on one of the donkeys, and would shout out asking how high on pot we were. Wanted to take a giant leap off the climb at their face. And the donkeys and horses would crap everywhere so you had to scramble to make sure they didn't destroy your equipment.
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lewdsilver
May 19, 2007, 6:21 PM
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Hi hi - I climb a bunch at Metrorock and that is a good place for gear rental and a variety of climbs for beginners (5.5) through 5.12 + climbers. Mondays and Wed. are less crowded. Tues & Thurs start to get busy at 7:00PM sharp these days.
There is also a climbing gym @ MIT where I am taking a friend on Tues. who is interested in learning to climb. They rent shoes for $1, but I hear they do not have loads of shoes for each size. I have yet to go, but I hear good things from friends who climb there. MIT is bouldering only. Here is the link for the MIT wall:
http://web.mit.edu/mitoc/www/
Click on the Wall link on the left side of the page.
The facility is student run, so you have to check the website for open hours. I have been told weekdays 7-9PM is standard open hours.
Here is a link for your phone:
http://mitoc.mit.edu/index.wml
The bouldering problems are said to be set up for beginners as well as more experienced climbers.
I have taught friends how to climb at Hammond Pond at this wall:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mond_Pond/Pond_Area/
It is an alternative to going out to Quincy much closer to Boston. The climbs require having some long slings (20ft+) or static ropes for setting up top ropes. If it rains they can be very wet. There are good cracks here which beginners can really dig into.
Qunicy gets busy, but the people are not as obnoxious as your experiences in Illnois; no horse crap at least. You can still have a good time here - especially on warm winter days this past year.
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lewdsilver
May 19, 2007, 7:28 PM
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right on rob! sounds good. That would be cool.
I am down most weekends.
Any recommendations on camping sites up @ north conway?
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jumaringjeff
May 20, 2007, 5:34 AM
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lewdsilver wrote: Any recommendations on camping sites up @ north conway?
Yes. It's a secret though, so I only show it to people who fulfill the following requirements:
A. You must agree to rope up with me for a long day of multipitch.
B. You must own a tent that you'll share with me (I lost mine in the "divorce").
PM if interested. Serious inquiries only.
:-D
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jsarge
May 20, 2007, 11:09 AM
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Unrelated to current discussion, but was wondering if people here could help me. I am trying to get some route information for Rattlesnake Rocks.
First; does anyone know the rating for the two bolted routes on the right side of the Lookout Area slab. Boston Rocks has them un-named and un-rated. It looks like the stopper move for both routes is actually getting over the roof and establishing yourself on the face above. Tried to onsight the right hand route but fell at the first bolt. Just wondering if anyone had idea of the grades.
Secondly; any route information for the area about 50 yards left of the White Face wall, but before the Playground? There is a area of the cliff, only about 35 feet tall, dominated by a low angle slab, capped with a roof, then another slab section above. There are well defined finger and hand cracks there. A friend and I climbed a half dozen routes in this area last weekend. We had to do a lot of excavation on the cracks, because they were filled with dirt, But once cleaned, yielded good jams and gear placements. There is nothing in Boston Rocks about this section of the cliff. I left the same question to the "info@bostonrocksonline" email, but have not gotten an response. I figure with the long history and relatively low amount of rock in the area, these routes all had to have been done before.
Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.
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lewdsilver
May 20, 2007, 9:02 PM
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In reply to: lewdsilver wrote: In reply to: Any recommendations on camping sites up @ north conway? Yes. It's a secret though, so I only show it to people who fulfill the following requirements: A. You must agree to rope up with me for a long day of multipitch. B. You must own a tent that you'll share with me (I lost mine in the "divorce"). PM if interested. Serious inquiries only. :-D
sounds good A & B are no probs - I recently picked up a new 6 person tent (its actually more like a nylon house), so you can have your own room in the tent. :-D
(This post was edited by lewdsilver on May 20, 2007, 9:05 PM)
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jakedatc
May 21, 2007, 2:29 AM
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Had a strong night leading plastic last night.. took a couple planned falls to get that out of my system. My endurance is definitely improving and i'm glad about that
Bill i don't think i can go up just for a day.. too much driving.. too little rock. I'd love to go up for a few days this week as the weather is freaking amazing looking..
anyone not working or wants to have a sudden illness for a few days ;)
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lewdsilver
May 21, 2007, 2:39 AM
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I mentioned it to notch already, but I forgot to drop a line here.
A group of 20 of us from the boston area (mostly metrorock climbers) are headed up to Acadia for mem day weekend.
Anyone in the area who wants to connect with us up there should come on out.
I know part of the crew is rolling out on Thurs afternoon.
Drop me a PM before Thurs.
I am not sure if I will have service @ acadia (got t-mobile), but I may still be able to get PMs on my phone up there if their is coverage.
peace.
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robbovius
May 21, 2007, 11:02 AM
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lewdsilver wrote: right on rob! sounds good. That would be cool. I am down most weekends. Any recommendations on camping sites up @ north conway?
there are several for-paqy campsites around north conway, but you can also just hike in anywhere in the white mnt. national forest and camp there too. if you're willing to hike way in to the woods off the road to the peak of cathedral, that abuts WMNF land, and you can just park yourself there.
the WMNF site has topos to tell where the boundaries are.
Jake, you're right about the weather... can't take any days off this week unfortunately. I WILL by at CR tuesday night around 6:15 until dark for whoever is interested though.
(This post was edited by robbovius on May 21, 2007, 11:06 AM)
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losbill
May 21, 2007, 11:14 AM
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Jake too bad you can't make it. We are leaving now. Looks like it is going to be a beautiful day.
I hear you about the drive, not to mention the gas $. That is why I don't daytrip the Gunks anymore. Just too far.
Would have liked to come out and play for a couple of days this week but I have too much going on. Plus I'm headed to the Gunks for the weekend.
See you at the Ruckus.
Bill
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jumaringjeff
May 21, 2007, 1:00 PM
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Hey all,
I'm playing a show in Agawam on Sunday night, and since I'll be 3/5 of the way there I want to drive to the gunks afterwards and climb on Mem day. I need a partner.
Anyone?
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robbovius
May 22, 2007, 12:04 PM
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jeff good luck w/ the partner-finding.
FYI anyone interested, I will be at College Rock this eveing from about 6:15 pm until dark, and maybe beyond. headlamps are my friend.
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