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Are you a 5.13+ or v10+ climber?
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alpinerock


Sep 20, 2003, 1:13 AM
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I don't personaly, but some of my partners do. Dale goddard climbs 14's(climbing since age 16) and boulders who knows what. Tom cadwell, low 13's(since age 25). and Rob wuebecker(age 25), mid 13's and i think around V10 or so.

I know one person that I'm willing to bet money will climb 14's, my little bro, youngest dedicated climber that i know(dedicated as in climbs 3 or 4 times a week)age 10, redpoints 10b, boulders V3-4


yosemite


Sep 20, 2003, 3:13 AM
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The Sierra's are full of 4.13ds. They are the worstest ones!

Herm speaks the truth.

Norman Clyde Class 3 - watch out & rope up!

Norman Clyde Class 4 - way 4.13DRX!

Watch your ass!


karlbaba


Sep 20, 2003, 3:46 AM
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The hardest thing I almost sent was 13d. I was through the crux, there was a 12b runout to the anchors. I was pumped but hanging in there and I was just about to clip the chains...

But then...


I woke up,

and, with that, I lost three number grades in ability

Peace

karl


iridesantacruz


Sep 20, 2003, 10:22 PM
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4.13....maybe!
ha ha


ikefromla


Sep 20, 2003, 11:25 PM
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yes and no. climbed a handfull of 13's... one being 13+... working some harder stuff. V10+ though? you mean V11? haven't touched V11... tried some 10's. not close to them.
been climbing almost 6 years.
my style? i TRY to emulate Tiff Campbell. "Flow before you force."


charley


Sep 21, 2003, 12:20 AM
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4.13....maybe!

That's about 5.3, ya me too.


bigfoot


Sep 21, 2003, 9:49 PM
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Everyone has a "friend" who climbs 5.47's and 5.17e's. I think people get too caught up in the ratings. Climbing is climbing and should be respected regardless of what the number is. It is a purely personal sport with mostly intrinsic rewards. I have climbed "5.9's" that were alot harder than 10d's-- outside there's really know way to know the definate rating- and inside- well, thats not climbing thats practice


climbingjunky


Sep 22, 2003, 12:39 AM
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Everyone has a "friend" who climbs 5.47's and 5.17e's. I think people get too caught up in the ratings. Climbing is climbing and should be respected regardless of what the number is. It is a purely personal sport with mostly intrinsic rewards. I have climbed "5.9's" that were alot harder than 10d's-- outside there's really know way to know the definate rating- and inside- well, thats not climbing thats practice

You can still respect climbing for what it is and still be interested in ratings as reference to see how well your progressing. I'm not caught up in the ratings, but it's nice to know what i climbed whether its v1 or v5 that way i know if i'm improving or not. I've climbed many 5.9s indoors and outdoors, haven't been on one that would be harder that 10d? I lead an 5.10d outdoors and, my 3rd outdoor lead, and man it wasn't easy. As far as indoor climbing not being climbing, well it's not rockclimbing but it's still climbing. I'm sure tha's what you meant. I hate when people diss other forms of climbing. Enjoy what you like. To each his own.


climbingjunky


Sep 22, 2003, 12:40 AM
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*duplicate post*


curt


Sep 22, 2003, 12:50 AM
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You can still respect climbing for what it is and still be interested in ratings as reference to see how well your progressing. I'm not caught up in the ratings, but it's nice to know what i climbed whether its v1 or v5 that way i know if i'm improving or not.
Not to pick on indy specifically, but this is the kind of nonsense often used for chasing numbers. (i.e to see if you are improving as a climber) I find this to be largely a false argument.

You will be able to tell if you are climbing better without the use of any numbers. Things that were hard for you previously will be easier and things that were impossible before will be doable. If you can't see this progress without reference to some number that others have assigned to the climb, the "progress" is pretty meaningless anyway.

Curt


solid


Sep 22, 2003, 1:10 AM
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yup


alpinerock


Sep 22, 2003, 1:50 AM
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I think that all grades are very subjective, like there are V6 boulder probs. thats i've sent no problem like 3 try's max, but then there are a couple of V3's i'v been working on literlay since day one and still can't send, its all very subjective.


curt


Sep 22, 2003, 2:08 AM
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I think that all grades are very subjective, like there are V6 boulder probs. thats i've sent no problem like 3 try's max, but then there are a couple of V3's i'v been working on literlay since day one and still can't send, its all very subjective.

Exactly. That is the problem with grading climbs or boulder problems--especially when you try to divide the grades too finely. By definition, the more finely you try to grade things, the greater the innaccuracy of the ratings. See Schrodinger's uncertainty principle for an imperfect but relevant reference.

Curt


alwaysforward


Sep 22, 2003, 4:00 AM
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Hence, V-Warmup, V-Medium, V-Hard.,


godsmybelayer


Sep 22, 2003, 4:54 AM
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In reply to:
You can still respect climbing for what it is and still be interested in ratings as reference to see how well your progressing. I'm not caught up in the ratings, but it's nice to know what i climbed whether its v1 or v5 that way i know if i'm improving or not.
Not to pick on indy specifically, but this is the kind of nonsense often used for chasing numbers. (i.e to see if you are improving as a climber) I find this to be largely a false argument.

You will be able to tell if you are climbing better without the use of any numbers. Things that were hard for you previously will be easier and things that were impossible before will be doable. If you can't see this progress without reference to some number that others have assigned to the climb, the "progress" is pretty meaningless anyway.

Curt

Wait a minute curt, aren't you the one who says you used to climb V9-V10 in your profile, back before you were almost 50, in order to let everyone know how much progress you made hanging out with superstar climbers? Does that make you a numbers chaser? Or are you just trying to let us know what level a respect to afford you? :?: Or should indy not use numbers to reference himself by until he's a better climber, or old and trying to catch a peek of his prime again? :wink:


godsmybelayer


Sep 22, 2003, 5:05 AM
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Name: Curt Shannon
Member Since: 2002-08-26 20:37:10
Last Visited: 2003-09-21 21:36:31
Visits: 76844
From: Scottsdale, Arizona, United States
Email: curtshannon@mindspring.com
Gender: Male
RC.com Rating: 33551
Forum Posts: 2625
Hostel: Contact
Personal description: I am 47 now and have been climbing for 24 years. I prefer bouldering, but have done quite a bit of everything except alpine and ice. I grew up and began climbing in Minnesota and moved to California in 1981. I lived in the town of Joshua Tree, CA for 6 years, so I know that place pretty well. I moved to Arizona in 1992 as one of the founders of the Arizona Stock Exchange, who's president was Steve Wunsch. The AZX unfortunately no longer exists, but that is a long story. I now live in Scottsdale with my wife, Lisa, and a 6 year old son, John. I have been extremely fortunate to have climbed extensively with some tremendous climbers. (I have known and bouldered with John Gill for over 20 years. I have climbed with John Stannard frequently also over the last 20+ years, just to name a couple.) Oh, and John Sherman too, but he will climb with anybody who buys the beer. I probably bouldered V9/V10 or so at my best, which was about ten years ago. Strangely enough I am now in the best climbing shape that I have been in for some time, so I am having delusional thoughts about doing hard things again. Hope springs eternal I guess.

The only thing worse than numbers chasing......"I'm so cool" chasing mixed with "hey indy, your a numbers chaser and your not" chasing! :shock:


curt


Sep 22, 2003, 5:10 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
You can still respect climbing for what it is and still be interested in ratings as reference to see how well your progressing. I'm not caught up in the ratings, but it's nice to know what i climbed whether its v1 or v5 that way i know if i'm improving or not.
Not to pick on indy specifically, but this is the kind of nonsense often used for chasing numbers. (i.e to see if you are improving as a climber) I find this to be largely a false argument.

You will be able to tell if you are climbing better without the use of any numbers. Things that were hard for you previously will be easier and things that were impossible before will be doable. If you can't see this progress without reference to some number that others have assigned to the climb, the "progress" is pretty meaningless anyway.

Curt

Wait a minute curt, aren't you the one who says you used to climb V9-V10 in your profile, back before you were almost 50, in order to let everyone know how much progress you made hanging out with superstar climbers? Does that make you a numbers chaser? Or are you just trying to let us know what level a respect to afford you? :?: Or should indy not use numbers to reference himself by until he's a better climber, or old and trying to catch a peek of his prime again? :wink:

Dear Stephen,

Nice job of taking my profile comments out of context, although I can't blame you completely. I perhaps should have said that I boulder B2 and then let you and your fellow grommets figure out what I meant by that.

Curt


curt


Sep 22, 2003, 5:23 AM
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I'm a student at Southern. I have no life outside of school and rockclimbing. I have no life. I freely accept pity gear donated to needy college students. Contact me about an address to send said gear to. Thank-you in advance, Stephen
Stephen,

I notice you state more than once in your profile that you have no life. Please take no offence with me for agreeing with you.

Curt


godsmybelayer


Sep 22, 2003, 5:27 AM
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grom·met
'grä-m&t, 'gr&-
Function: noun
Etymology: obsolete French gormette curb of a bridle
Date: 1626
1 : a flexible loop that serves as a fastening, support, or reinforcement
2 : an eyelet of firm material to strengthen or protect an opening or to insulate or protect something passed through it

I am neither a grommet (At least not in the same fasion as you, lol), or ignorant of the antiquated B1-B3 bouldering grades. What I am, is sympathetic to climbers who climb 5.9-5.11 and use the grading system to gauge their progress. I know I will probably be in the 12 range until I pass my prime, and if I do breach 13, I'll probably never know it since I rarely ever check the grade, unless it was just alot easier or harder than I thought it would be and I'm dying to know! But if some upshoot wants to look at the guys in 13 and say wow he's cool....then I'll just sit back and pat him on the back and say yeah he sure is isn't he. Your going to belittle them, I'll call you on it, and you can turn your arogance and spitefullness on me. Either way your old, and you can't climb 13+. So lets let someone who can do the talkin' what do you say? :?: Oh, and by the way,by grommet are you refering to me as the 'loop' or 'link' that helps fasten, support, or reinforce my fellow climber in an emergency? I'm honored!


kalcario


Sep 22, 2003, 5:37 AM
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*Exactly. That is the problem with grading climbs or boulder problems--*

But I thought boulder problems WERE climbs!

Your Freudian Slip is showing there Curt...


curt


Sep 22, 2003, 5:45 AM
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Hey asshole,

I mean grommet as in gremmie in the climbing context. I may not climb 5.13+ anymore but I have certainly bouldered V10 in this calendar year. If you would like to challenge this assertion, please feel free to take up bvb on his wager. He has offered a $500 bet to anyone who can follow me on my bouldering circuit in Arizona. Put up or STFU asswipe.

Curt


curt


Sep 22, 2003, 5:49 AM
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*Exactly. That is the problem with grading climbs or boulder problems--*

But I thought boulder problems WERE climbs!

Your Freudian Slip is showing there Curt...

Joe,

As you are probably aware, I believe bouldering is a legitimate form of climbing. The lack of precision exists in both rating systems.

Curt


godsmybelayer


Sep 22, 2003, 6:00 AM
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There is no such thing as over moderation at RC.com. There is only moderation per se. Rockclimbing.com is perhaps best viewed as Disneyland--a family oriented site. Other sites (b.com, perhaps) are more like Sodom and Gomorrah--no holds barred. There is certainly room enough for both on the internet.

Curt

Wow there curt, do you cuss like that when you take your wifey and 6 yr. old son to disney land :cry: . Lets hope not. Let's keep it PG-13 here, k buddy old friend! I know we've struck a nerve here with your pride, but I'm not challenging you, you see I really don't care how good of a climber you are. And further more since we're both not numbers chasers and hence aren't climbing to compete, why would I want to take a challenge from you? Are you trying to prove how good of a climber you are by saying I can't climb at the numbers you are? :?: I'm happy climbing as a personal challenge and experience for myself! I don't need to know I'm better than you for my personal fulfillment and ego, so I'll pass on the $500 Curtsy Cola Challenge thank-you. My whole point was your a prideful numbers chaser as well (as you've more than proved) so lay off the kid...geesh! :roll:


curt


Sep 22, 2003, 6:16 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
There is no such thing as over moderation at RC.com. There is only moderation per se. Rockclimbing.com is perhaps best viewed as Disneyland--a family oriented site. Other sites (b.com, perhaps) are more like Sodom and Gomorrah--no holds barred. There is certainly room enough for both on the internet.

Curt

Wow there curt, do you cuss like that when you take your wifey and 6 yr. old son to disney land :cry: . Lets hope not. Let's keep it PG-13 here, k buddy old friend! I know we've struck a nerve here with your pride, but I'm not challenging you, you see I really don't care how good of a climber you are. And further more since we're both not numbers chasers and hence aren't climbing to compete, why would I want to take a challenge from you? Are you trying to prove how good of a climber you are by saying I can't climb at the numbers you are? :?: I'm happy climbing as a personal challenge and experience for myself! I don't need to know I'm better than you for my personal fulfillment and ego, so I'll pass on the $500 Curtsy Cola Challenge thank-you. My whole point was your a prideful numbers chaser as well (as you've more than proved) so lay off the kid...geesh! :roll:

godsmybelayer,

Actually, my son turned seven a couple of weeks ago. And I believe that chasing numbers and competition in climbing/bouldering are two different things--the latter being healthy. Hence your insinuation with reference to my current bouldering standards struck a chord with me. If you really were just trying to make fun of my reference to "V9-V10" in my profile, I will change it. Perhaps others are making the same mistake you are. Also, good choice on passing on the challenge.

Curt


climbthedj


Sep 22, 2003, 6:40 AM
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Well, another surprisingly off-topic thread.. and it has veered off to grade chasing debate, go figure.

I actually just returned from a weekend bouldering with Curt and the AZ climbers. (which, by the way, was a blast) and unless your fingertips are made of rawhide, you're probably right to pass on the bouldering tour with Curt in Phoenix. I'm currently mourning the loss of my calluses.

As for the original topic, I am not a V10/ .13 climber yet. I hope to stick with it and see just how far I can go. And climbing style? I try to stay smooth and under control, concentrating on the movement. When that fails, flail arms and legs until they hit solid holds.

I do agree with the fact that grading systems are too finely divided. but at this point. what are ya gonna do?

cheers,

C

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