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scubasnyder
Feb 11, 2004, 2:24 PM
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I was wondering what was the grade of your first trad climb? The first day i started i did a 5.5 first then i did a 5.7 in the same day. The best part about it was there was a great veiw at the top.
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mistymountainhop
Feb 11, 2004, 2:25 PM
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5.7, 3 pitches, White Whale at Lumpy Ridge
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marcel
Feb 11, 2004, 2:29 PM
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That was so many years ago, heck if I remember! :lol: I'd guess 5.3!
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geezergecko
Feb 11, 2004, 2:34 PM
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It was a 5.3 which otherwise would have bored me but at the time was one of the most thrilling climbs I have done.
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scclimber
Feb 11, 2004, 2:42 PM
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short man's sorrow, 5.6. south face of looking glass
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floridaputz
Feb 11, 2004, 2:44 PM
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Rosebud 5.5. 1977 Taylors Falls Minnesota
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gat
Feb 11, 2004, 2:45 PM
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Seneca Rocks, Gunsight to South Peak 5.3.
Abosolutely fantastic climb for the grade.
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sticky_fingers
Feb 11, 2004, 3:05 PM
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Seneca Rocks, Candy Corner 5.5
Scared the crap outta me.
It was my first outdoor lead as well. I remember placing a lot of gear low, and then having to run it out near the top.
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kman
Feb 11, 2004, 3:08 PM
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5.9. I went back about 6 months after to lead it again and was wondering wtf I was thinking the first time.
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cantbuymefriends
Feb 11, 2004, 3:12 PM
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5.4(ish?) at my basic rock training course. The instructor was jugging next to me... :D
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ouflyboy9
Feb 11, 2004, 3:27 PM
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Caver's Route (5.3) in Red River and Roadside Attraction (5.7) later that day, roadside attraction worked me over, I was still climbing in tennis shoes.
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stick233
Feb 11, 2004, 3:28 PM
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lead or follow?
i followed castle rock in leavenworth, 5.8 or9 i think, then went back a week later and did outer space, leading one 5.7 pitch while my partner lead the rest...
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hema
Feb 11, 2004, 3:46 PM
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My first tradlead was something like 5.8, though I had seconded it earlier. My first real lead was a 5.7 onsight.
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dsafanda
Feb 11, 2004, 3:48 PM
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Bear's Reach. 5.7 3 pitches. Ten years later, it is still one of my favorite climbs.
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cracklover
Feb 11, 2004, 3:53 PM
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First lead: 5.4 - Blue Route, at Crow Hill, Mass. An unremarkable 35 foot practice climb.
Second lead: 5.6 - Thin Air, at Cathedral, NH. 5 beautiful pitches.
Third lead: 5.8 - Pine Tree Eliminate, at Cathedral, NH. One pitch of strenuous crack climbing. I didn't want anything to do with this climb - seemed way over my head. But my partner wanted a shot at it. I saw him struggle over and over with the crux, and realized that I knew I could do it. So when he backed off, I led it.
Needless to say, the trend in the difficulty of my leads did not continue. :lol:
GO
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sed
Feb 11, 2004, 3:54 PM
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Think of each one as your first, you'll live longer.
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coylec
Feb 11, 2004, 4:26 PM
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Crowder's Mt, Ooga Chocka 5.8.
it's one of my favorite climbs and I knew all the moves.
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calamity_chk
Feb 11, 2004, 4:33 PM
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my first TR was a 10c - though it was probably more of an easy 11 for my body size.
my first lead was a 5.7 or 5.8, cant remember which.
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uasunflower
Feb 11, 2004, 4:38 PM
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5.3 Three (now two) Pines at the Gunks, first pitch. It's been a rainy gloomy November day, so i practiced anchors for a couple of hours and then led it to make up for the day's atmosphere. Great views, very juggy and very scary! But got me hooked alright :roll:
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piton
Feb 11, 2004, 5:02 PM
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5.7 ed's crack vedauwoo, 1 one week after the 1st time i went climbing.
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barefooter
Feb 11, 2004, 5:24 PM
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5.10c but the crux is the first move and the rest is like 5.7 or 8 and I had top roped it a couple of times so it was pretty easy. All I had for gear was a set of nuts and some quikdraws.
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wmayville
Feb 11, 2004, 5:28 PM
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Baby Roof, JT. It was rated 5.8 by the Vogel guide but I think it was a little over rated.
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wmayville
Feb 11, 2004, 5:28 PM
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Baby Roof, JT. It was rated 5.8 by the Vogel guide but I think it was a little over rated.
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baja_java
Feb 11, 2004, 5:29 PM
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5.3, where i also snared my first booty cam
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lstockett
Feb 11, 2004, 5:40 PM
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In reply to: I was wondering what was the grade of your first trad climb? The first day i started i did a 5.5 first then i did a 5.7 in the same day. The best part about it was there was a great veiw at the top.
The Block Route (5.5 with at 5.8 crux) and then Great Arch (5.5) to top out at Stone Mountain in North Carolina.
Six months later it was also my first trad lead.
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vegastradguy
Feb 11, 2004, 5:41 PM
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first lead was Crimson Chrysalis, 5.8. We did it in 6 pitches, and it was onsight for both of us.
looking back on it, i was psycho for even considering it as my first lead. i didnt fall or sketch...until the rappel, but what a first route!
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gipsy
Feb 11, 2004, 5:47 PM
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First lead: Nutrasweet (5.7) T-Wall
First climb: Art (5.8) T-Wall
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blondebrasilian
Feb 11, 2004, 5:49 PM
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5.6 Direct southeast route 1st Flatiron. 8 Pitches was awesome!!!
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keinangst
Feb 11, 2004, 5:50 PM
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5.8. A 50' route called Steeples at The Palisades here in Alabama. All passive gear, onsight. I had only actually led one route before that (sport), so the whole idea of climbing above pro was very new to me.
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bnjohns
Feb 11, 2004, 5:52 PM
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Zanzibar and Kampala, a couple of (short) 2-pitch 5.5's at Woodchuck Ledge in New Hampshire.
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robgordon
Feb 11, 2004, 5:53 PM
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It was a 5.8 handcrack, I remember it well. The crack is so perfect, it eats gear like nobody's business and you could park a truck on the handjams. I'm going to go solo it when it warms up some.
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rrrADAM
Feb 11, 2004, 6:03 PM
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5.9 in the Gunks called Red Cabbage.
Figured since I could climb .10c sport, I'd warm up on a .9... I was in fear of my life, even though the climb is only 35-40 feet high. Barely pulled off the onsight, as I didn't trust the gear enought to fall or even hang on it at that time.
After that rude awakening I quickly decided that climbing 5.6's were more prudent at that time.
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rcaret
Feb 11, 2004, 6:16 PM
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Commitment in Yosemite , The five open books area , 5.8 with a roof move 5.9 close to the top .
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cjstudent
Feb 11, 2004, 6:17 PM
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Ship Rock NC - Lost at Sea - 5.8
The next day i did Two Pitch (5.4) and Cave Route (5.5) at Table Rock
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fanederhand
Feb 11, 2004, 6:33 PM
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very first lead was on a Alpine snow route. First rock was around 5.1 to 5.2. My next leads were 5.5 and 5.7 (Twall and Rocktown). I took a course to learn to lead and would be top roped while practicing leading. If I do alpine multi pitch I drop the grade down by 2 or 3 notches from what I confertabley can lead. I alway lead with a helmet and try to be as safe as possible. Good luck leading and climb safe. :D
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lilcapntravis
Feb 11, 2004, 6:40 PM
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5.6. Smorgasborg, E-rock............in the rain.
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madmax
Feb 11, 2004, 6:46 PM
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30 Seconds Over Potash, 5.8
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joegoesup
Feb 11, 2004, 7:10 PM
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Danm adam, did you have a death wish or balls of steel to set off on a 5.9 for your first led. I got scared on my 5.4 first led.
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yay_chris
Feb 11, 2004, 7:18 PM
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My first trad-lead was 5.3 called Apple Crumble.
It was totally exhilerating, and I'm glad I started with such a relaxing grade level because I was pretty scared.
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jt512
Feb 11, 2004, 7:20 PM
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5.1 on Manure Pile Buttress in Yosemite. It was my first route ever.
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smellyhippie
Feb 11, 2004, 7:40 PM
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Lion's Jaw, 5.8 dihedral at Smith Rock. Still a favorite climb.
Nate
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markc
Feb 11, 2004, 7:52 PM
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Man, there's more spraying going on here than in the fragrance section of the mall. Some of you folks must be naturally gifted or divinely protected.
5.2, baby. Followed by a single pitch 5.5. Then I started at the bottom of the recommended routes at Seneca and started working up. I was taught to never push protection difficulty and climbing difficulty at the same time, and to start small so I had plenty of experience under my belt when I needed it. YMMV. Where are all the other overly-cautious climbers for this thread?
mark
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fanederhand
Feb 11, 2004, 8:13 PM
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In reply to: Man, there's more spraying going on here than in the fragrance section of the mall. Some of you folks must be naturally gifted or divinely protected. 5.2, baby. Followed by a single pitch 5.5. Then I started at the bottom of the recommended routes at Seneca and started working up. I was taught to never push protection difficulty and climbing difficulty at the same time, and to start small so I had plenty of experience under my belt when I needed it. YMMV. Where are all the other overly-cautious climbers for this thread? mark
Second that my freind :wink: You can climb with me anytime. Better to be safe than sorry.
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rockhound71
Feb 11, 2004, 8:13 PM
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5.6 Psycho, Mt Erie. The name says it all.
Even though the route was crap, w/ like protection, I still remember and enjoyed it (must be the masochist in me!)
Casey
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ranski
Feb 11, 2004, 8:42 PM
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Posion Ivy (5.7) Sam's Throne Arkansas with my good bud Jer!
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jv
Feb 11, 2004, 9:06 PM
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In reply to: I was wondering what was the grade of your first trad climb?
Like most of us I think, everything I learned on was only a pitch or two at most, so Grade I's. Incidentally, my first Grade II's and III's were at Tahquitz, where I did my first lead (Left Ski Track). First Grade IV (East Buttress of Middle), V (Rostrum), and VI (NW Face of Half Dome), are all in the Valley.
JV
P.S. This is a trad, not sport, answer.
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katydid
Feb 11, 2004, 11:13 PM
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P1 of Skyline Traverse at Seneca, 5.3. I put in about 5 pieces of gear in toto and ran out the last 20 feet. Then I got yelled at for running it out. Deservedly so, I might add. :P
k.
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keinangst
Feb 11, 2004, 11:38 PM
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In reply to: naturally gifted or divinely protected.
The latter. :wink:
But remember, there's a lot of variation between types of 5.8 climbs. In the case of my first lead, I could scope out several excellent hands-free stances, so I knew it wouldn't be a big issue. I still don't try anything with sustained upper body moves on trad... :shock:
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dirtineye
Feb 11, 2004, 11:54 PM
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If you mean first trad lead, very crappy 5.6 or 7 called Yellowjacket at Lost Wall GA with too many holds and too many placements and too much to hit if you fell. And I got stuck squeezing between a flake amd the wall hahaha.
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offwidth
Feb 12, 2004, 2:21 AM
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A 5.9 at Joshua Tree. A terrible climb with not stars; can't remember the name of it.
Crux face moves on a slab down low, to a much easier flare to the top. The bolt at the crux made the crux moves mentally easy, but then I cried, whimpered, and almost pissed my pants while running it out to the top. I only had hexes and stoppers, and none of them were going to fit in that lousy groove.
It was fun when it was over though.
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roughster
Feb 12, 2004, 2:23 AM
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5.4 Y Crack at Minnehahas (sp?) in Spokane. I about shit my pants too :)
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powpierre
Feb 12, 2004, 2:55 AM
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An 8 crack in Josh called popes crack I think, then Gelsa in the gunks quickly followed by Farewell to Arms also in the gunks
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frantik
Feb 12, 2004, 3:00 AM
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my first trad lead was a 5.3 but I had climbed it before. my first trad onsight was 5.7.
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okinawatricam
Feb 12, 2004, 3:59 AM
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Some unamed 5.4 at Goat Rock in California. Not only was it my first TRAD lead, it was my first climb. I own three nuts and a nylon rope. The following weekend, with the same rack I climb the Gully/crack right of Penthouse cracks in the valley. Felt like 13x then.
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dynoguy
Feb 12, 2004, 4:05 AM
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Cinnamon Slab - 5.6 Smith Rock
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thomaskeefer
Feb 12, 2004, 4:29 AM
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Ecstasy in Seneca (5.7). Had a great time but was crapping my pants since we were armed with little more than what we had read in Freedom of the Hills and 'Climbing Anchors' (and at that time the guys in those pics in Climbing Anchors looked to be in the latest fashion :) )
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climbs4fun
Moderator
Feb 12, 2004, 4:33 AM
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5.3 babeeeeeeeeeeeee!
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amanda
Feb 13, 2004, 2:47 AM
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My first trad lead was Yellow Pages in Durango. An gentle 5.6 with big ledges every two or three moves. You could basically set up a grill, have a patio party and mingle with guests while you fiddled with placements. A very nice first experience.
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gman
Feb 13, 2004, 5:02 AM
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Believe it or not as I am sure there will be doubters, but Diamond Dogs at Joshua. 10a 2 stars......big flake in to start, but once you get to the top of it, it's pretty easy.....
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catbiter
Feb 13, 2004, 6:01 AM
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5.5 Candy Corner, Seneca Rocks
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pancaketom
Feb 13, 2004, 6:11 AM
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warpy moople 5.9 I think. It was 7 or 8 pitches. we rock-paper-scissored and I got the first (and later crux ) pitch. I still think I have my record longest lead pitch on that climb (near 2 (yes 2) hours. off route, then ran out of rope shy of a ledge and had to retreat... great stuff) we almost had a full blown epic, but instead just finished in the dark. A wonderful adventure.
I think I tried to place a piece on a 10 at hueco before then on the way up to a high first bolt, but that doesn't really count.
the first "sport" lead was a run out slab (ripple) at enchanted rock. I think another 5.9, with crappy old bolts too. I did that a few years later (after the bolts had been replaced) and was wondering what I was thinking back then.
ps. doesn't diamond dogs have 3 or 4 bolts on it?
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emtclimber
Feb 15, 2004, 3:00 AM
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First second was a 5.7 (at "roche de perdrix"), 3 pitch.
Gonna lead it next summer.
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coldclimb
Feb 15, 2004, 3:09 AM
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5.7. What a fun climb! :D
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tweek
Feb 15, 2004, 3:24 AM
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5.1 Jtree. and you know what.... It was hard 8) .
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far_east_climber
Feb 15, 2004, 3:28 AM
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5.8 - just yesterday 8)
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joe
Feb 15, 2004, 4:03 AM
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In reply to: What was the grade of your first Trad Climb?
i'm pretty sure i got an F.
i didn't do the required reading. it sure was chossy.
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hawaii_climbing_guy
Feb 15, 2004, 8:40 AM
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I don't know for sure what the official rating is, or even if an offical rating has been established. It was today at Mokuleia Wall on the west side of Oahu Island, on a 5.7 line. One pitch, then lowered off of a sport anchor for the next climber to top-rope from. Before that, I did Dr. Hook, a mixed sport/trad route that is rated 5.8. It's a tough lead, and the pro was something I probably shouldn't have been trying.
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climb4fun
Feb 17, 2004, 5:20 PM
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My first time my knees shook and my hands sweated (a lot!) But when it was over I did two more and can't wait to get out and do it again. 5.6,5.7,5.7 at Sugarloaf Mtn MD. 5.6 never felt so hard ever!
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vertical_reality
Feb 17, 2004, 5:36 PM
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I haven't actually done my first trad climb yet but I got my eye on a nice 5.4 in Great Falls. Now I just need a car and some warm weather.
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jumaringjeff
Feb 17, 2004, 5:55 PM
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5.5 - Boardwalk, on the practice face at Crow Hill, MA. It's a nice 80ft slab with a few crack systems and small ledges every 20 feet or so. Bailed the first time due to sharp-end-terror, but came back later in the season and finished it.
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hosh
Feb 17, 2004, 6:17 PM
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I think the first Trad lead I did was a 5.8 or a 5.9. I don't remember...
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nealric
Feb 21, 2004, 3:09 AM
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Mine was actually a first ascent (to my knowlege)
It was sugarloaf at macinac island near michigan. It was probably illegal to climb on it (macinac island is an uber turist attraction with gaurdrails in front of every cliff. I was 14 and had just bought a single set of nuts- that was all I had!
It was probably about 5.5- but lose. With my monster rack- I got in a grand total of 2 placements in about 60ft :)
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euroford
Feb 21, 2004, 5:31 AM
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one pitch of 5.6 and a second pitch of 5.7. followed the first and led the second.
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deleted
Deleted
Feb 21, 2004, 5:37 AM
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on my first trad lead, i was way above my head and i decked and broke my back and face and now girls won't f me.
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dorkmaster
Feb 22, 2004, 2:40 PM
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Ahhh, *SIGH* Hee hee, i just kinda went to the base of the cliff, and picked a good line that look promising that wasnt in the guidebook :D and took the path of least resistance, 2 pitches on two sets of nuts! :lol: we used tree ledges as rap points and anchors...fun, probably 5.3...hardest part was the short overhang, maybe three feet. It had a small horizontal at the base, and then a crack splitting it above the lip. The whole pitch was all liceny and stuff too, because up here in Maine, if you dont clean it, you climb in licen! yuk. Any way, i plugged a nut into the crack above the overhang, extended the sling so it wouldnt create drag. Then i reached up for a finger jam in this crack. Then i realized that the only good jam was where i had put the nut :( :(...so, i fiddled with it for a little while, and finally got the nut up more and bagged the overhang move and finished the climb. Pretty fun :)
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moeman
Feb 22, 2004, 4:17 PM
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Did it yesterday.... ahhhhhh
Beginners Corner at Rocks State Park. About 50 feet, and solid gear the whole way up. Someone else was on it when we first got there, so I TR'd it once to preview it before I started leading. Although the pro was solid (albiet a little tricky in spots), there was a mid size ledge every 10 feet or so, so you had a good place to place gear, but if you fell, you would almost definately hit something.
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rckclimbergurl
Feb 24, 2004, 3:47 AM
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I don't remember what my first trad climb was, but I've only lead trad a few times outside.. and the 'hardest' I've done was a 5.8. Very fun!!
Multi-pitch trad is soooooooooooooooooo much better though...
*drool*
:D
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curt
Feb 24, 2004, 3:55 AM
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My first trad lead was 5.12 - is that unusual?
Hahahahaha. Ok, now back to reality. My first trad lead was a 5.4 at Taylor's Falls, Minnesota.
Curt
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oudinardin
Feb 26, 2004, 11:40 AM
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In reply to: on my first trad lead, i was way above my head and i decked and broke my back and face and now girls won't f me. |
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tkambitsch
Feb 26, 2004, 1:16 PM
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Motha (5.6), Roadside Crag, Red River Gorge
Pink tri-cams were made for this route -- or was it the other way around?
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mmckinney
Feb 26, 2004, 1:31 PM
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mine was called elephant walk 5.7 in the western serrias. man was i gripped pulling the crux slabby move about 20' of the ground. lol
good question, kinda takes me back.
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a_scender
Feb 27, 2004, 5:46 AM
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The first trad climb I ever got on was The Bastile Crack at Eldo. I got to lead the last 5.6 pitch. The climb is rated 5.7 overall. I climbed a lot of sport before I started trad climbing, so I felt comfortable.
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drkodos
Mar 3, 2004, 1:09 AM
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First trad lead: 69 5.3 Shawangunks. FA: Dick & Marulyn DuMais 1969
From the Swain guidebook:
In reply to: Crawl up a short slab, left around a loose block, then right around an overhang, then up a face to the ledge (see route name for history of ledge). Scramble to the woods.
Dick DuMais is also the author of the most excellent coffee table book of photographs of the Gunks called Shawangunk Rock Climbing. Anyone needing to get rid of a copy, let me know..... :D
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donie
Mar 3, 2004, 6:22 PM
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Belly Roll, 5.4 a slanty offwidth, which is a cave for me!
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climbingcam
Mar 3, 2004, 6:37 PM
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My first trad lead was in Sedona on The Mace, .9+ I didn't free the last pitch, for those of you who have climbed it you'll know why I was shittin bricks, but it was a great time, got my rack in the mail and recruited a friend and embarked upon our quest...
I'd highly reccommend that climb to anyone. Peace, Cameron
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j_ung
Mar 3, 2004, 7:11 PM
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Horseman (or is it HorsemEn?) at the Gunks. 2 pitches, 5.5.
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slablizard
Mar 3, 2004, 7:25 PM
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5.7 /8 I guess...a couple of cracks at the Duff Dome in Toulomne.
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holmeslovesguinness
Mar 3, 2004, 7:27 PM
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First trad climb - I seconded Middle Crack (5.8) at Enchanted Rock, TX, late 1992 I think. This was also my first rock climb ever. It was not pretty.
First trad lead - Surrealistic Pillar (5.7) at Lover's Leap, CA, 1994. Awesome, lots of good stopper placements on the easy routes out there as I remember.
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bootleg
Mar 4, 2004, 2:42 PM
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5.7. 2 Pitches and natural anchors. Was a mindjob. Havent gotten to lead since though,I am looking foward to my next multi pitch. :)
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climberpunk
Mar 4, 2004, 9:31 PM
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5.8 leading on pre-placed trad, 2 pitches, 2 years ago.
5.3 1 pitch leading on nuts in Carderrock MD, couple of months later.
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mankyone
Mar 20, 2004, 10:59 PM
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5.7 wheat thin, city of rocks. What a rush I got to the end of the climb and had to keep moveing up my #4 cam.to shorten the runout! The next day I lead a short finger to fist crack. My life has not been the same,and I love it! :wink:
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tahoe_rock_master
Mar 20, 2004, 11:13 PM
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A 5.7 at Black Wall on Donner SUmmit. It was the third pitch of a 3 pitch route called One Hand Clapping.
It was sketchy because there were only certain places you could put good pro, And they were far apart.
Matt
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freeclimberchris
Mar 24, 2004, 3:22 PM
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Mine was a 5.8 We Dive at Dawn at Billboard Buttress in Indian Cove JT. I freaked me out but was good for me.
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crazygirl
Mar 24, 2004, 3:40 PM
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I don't understand the question. The title says nothing about your first trad lead. So if you are not talking about leading, but rather your first top rope or follow on a trad line, then what difference does it make if it was trad or sport?
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oafy
Mar 24, 2004, 4:35 PM
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5.7 or 5.6, It was amazing, best feeling in the world
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oafy
Mar 24, 2004, 4:36 PM
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5.7 or 5.6, Thunder Bay Ont Canada It was amazing, best feeling in the world. Never forget that feeling.
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arkiemides
Mar 24, 2004, 11:56 PM
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I think it was 5.7, can't really remember when and where...
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coclimber26
Mar 25, 2004, 1:18 AM
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The Staircase, 11 mile canyon, CO 5.5 2p
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din
Mar 25, 2004, 1:49 AM
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5.19 HURRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!
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victorjohn
Mar 25, 2004, 2:03 AM
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the Exorcist at Jtree... 5.9, I believe.
I cleaned for my pal Dov. I have since gone back to see it and wondered how in the heck I got up the gall to do that for my first one. What you don't know can't hurt ya, I guess. I do remember having to hang on the rope 4-5 times an chill.
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gds
Mar 29, 2004, 10:11 PM
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Gunks
Easy V
5.2 but seemed hard at the time :lol:
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monopocketmojo
Mar 29, 2004, 10:39 PM
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5.6 at leaning tower, Devil's Lake. Peace of cake climb, but fun to be slotting nuts and placing cams as you go. That was last summer, and since then i've been looking for any chance to trad.
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keithlester
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Mar 30, 2004, 1:21 PM
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Hey Board Monkey, I guess my first big trad was the famous Agag's groove on the Buachaille in Scotland. Its a 4 pitch V.DIFF here but I'm not sure what grade that is in US Dollars :?
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greenspace
Mar 30, 2004, 3:48 PM
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5.7 on Wall St. Moab...forget name of route but it was a slab with a crack.
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