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vegastradguy
Feb 11, 2004, 5:41 PM
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first lead was Crimson Chrysalis, 5.8. We did it in 6 pitches, and it was onsight for both of us.
looking back on it, i was psycho for even considering it as my first lead. i didnt fall or sketch...until the rappel, but what a first route!
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gipsy
Feb 11, 2004, 5:47 PM
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First lead: Nutrasweet (5.7) T-Wall
First climb: Art (5.8) T-Wall
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blondebrasilian
Feb 11, 2004, 5:49 PM
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5.6 Direct southeast route 1st Flatiron. 8 Pitches was awesome!!!
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keinangst
Feb 11, 2004, 5:50 PM
Post #29 of 104
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5.8. A 50' route called Steeples at The Palisades here in Alabama. All passive gear, onsight. I had only actually led one route before that (sport), so the whole idea of climbing above pro was very new to me.
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bnjohns
Feb 11, 2004, 5:52 PM
Post #30 of 104
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Zanzibar and Kampala, a couple of (short) 2-pitch 5.5's at Woodchuck Ledge in New Hampshire.
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robgordon
Feb 11, 2004, 5:53 PM
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It was a 5.8 handcrack, I remember it well. The crack is so perfect, it eats gear like nobody's business and you could park a truck on the handjams. I'm going to go solo it when it warms up some.
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rrrADAM
Feb 11, 2004, 6:03 PM
Post #32 of 104
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5.9 in the Gunks called Red Cabbage.
Figured since I could climb .10c sport, I'd warm up on a .9... I was in fear of my life, even though the climb is only 35-40 feet high. Barely pulled off the onsight, as I didn't trust the gear enought to fall or even hang on it at that time.
After that rude awakening I quickly decided that climbing 5.6's were more prudent at that time.
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rcaret
Feb 11, 2004, 6:16 PM
Post #33 of 104
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Commitment in Yosemite , The five open books area , 5.8 with a roof move 5.9 close to the top .
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cjstudent
Feb 11, 2004, 6:17 PM
Post #34 of 104
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Ship Rock NC - Lost at Sea - 5.8
The next day i did Two Pitch (5.4) and Cave Route (5.5) at Table Rock
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fanederhand
Feb 11, 2004, 6:33 PM
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very first lead was on a Alpine snow route. First rock was around 5.1 to 5.2. My next leads were 5.5 and 5.7 (Twall and Rocktown). I took a course to learn to lead and would be top roped while practicing leading. If I do alpine multi pitch I drop the grade down by 2 or 3 notches from what I confertabley can lead. I alway lead with a helmet and try to be as safe as possible. Good luck leading and climb safe. :D
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lilcapntravis
Feb 11, 2004, 6:40 PM
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5.6. Smorgasborg, E-rock............in the rain.
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madmax
Feb 11, 2004, 6:46 PM
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30 Seconds Over Potash, 5.8
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joegoesup
Feb 11, 2004, 7:10 PM
Post #38 of 104
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Danm adam, did you have a death wish or balls of steel to set off on a 5.9 for your first led. I got scared on my 5.4 first led.
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yay_chris
Feb 11, 2004, 7:18 PM
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My first trad-lead was 5.3 called Apple Crumble.
It was totally exhilerating, and I'm glad I started with such a relaxing grade level because I was pretty scared.
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jt512
Feb 11, 2004, 7:20 PM
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5.1 on Manure Pile Buttress in Yosemite. It was my first route ever.
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smellyhippie
Feb 11, 2004, 7:40 PM
Post #41 of 104
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Lion's Jaw, 5.8 dihedral at Smith Rock. Still a favorite climb.
Nate
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markc
Feb 11, 2004, 7:52 PM
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Man, there's more spraying going on here than in the fragrance section of the mall. Some of you folks must be naturally gifted or divinely protected.
5.2, baby. Followed by a single pitch 5.5. Then I started at the bottom of the recommended routes at Seneca and started working up. I was taught to never push protection difficulty and climbing difficulty at the same time, and to start small so I had plenty of experience under my belt when I needed it. YMMV. Where are all the other overly-cautious climbers for this thread?
mark
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fanederhand
Feb 11, 2004, 8:13 PM
Post #43 of 104
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In reply to: Man, there's more spraying going on here than in the fragrance section of the mall. Some of you folks must be naturally gifted or divinely protected. 5.2, baby. Followed by a single pitch 5.5. Then I started at the bottom of the recommended routes at Seneca and started working up. I was taught to never push protection difficulty and climbing difficulty at the same time, and to start small so I had plenty of experience under my belt when I needed it. YMMV. Where are all the other overly-cautious climbers for this thread? mark
Second that my freind :wink: You can climb with me anytime. Better to be safe than sorry.
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rockhound71
Feb 11, 2004, 8:13 PM
Post #44 of 104
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Registered: Dec 29, 2002
Posts: 225
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5.6 Psycho, Mt Erie. The name says it all.
Even though the route was crap, w/ like protection, I still remember and enjoyed it (must be the masochist in me!)
Casey
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ranski
Feb 11, 2004, 8:42 PM
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Registered: Oct 30, 2002
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Posion Ivy (5.7) Sam's Throne Arkansas with my good bud Jer!
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jv
Feb 11, 2004, 9:06 PM
Post #46 of 104
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In reply to: I was wondering what was the grade of your first trad climb?
Like most of us I think, everything I learned on was only a pitch or two at most, so Grade I's. Incidentally, my first Grade II's and III's were at Tahquitz, where I did my first lead (Left Ski Track). First Grade IV (East Buttress of Middle), V (Rostrum), and VI (NW Face of Half Dome), are all in the Valley.
JV
P.S. This is a trad, not sport, answer.
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katydid
Feb 11, 2004, 11:13 PM
Post #47 of 104
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P1 of Skyline Traverse at Seneca, 5.3. I put in about 5 pieces of gear in toto and ran out the last 20 feet. Then I got yelled at for running it out. Deservedly so, I might add. :P
k.
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keinangst
Feb 11, 2004, 11:38 PM
Post #48 of 104
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In reply to: naturally gifted or divinely protected.
The latter. :wink:
But remember, there's a lot of variation between types of 5.8 climbs. In the case of my first lead, I could scope out several excellent hands-free stances, so I knew it wouldn't be a big issue. I still don't try anything with sustained upper body moves on trad... :shock:
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dirtineye
Feb 11, 2004, 11:54 PM
Post #49 of 104
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Registered: Mar 29, 2003
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If you mean first trad lead, very crappy 5.6 or 7 called Yellowjacket at Lost Wall GA with too many holds and too many placements and too much to hit if you fell. And I got stuck squeezing between a flake amd the wall hahaha.
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offwidth
Feb 12, 2004, 2:21 AM
Post #50 of 104
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Registered: Apr 17, 2002
Posts: 188
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A 5.9 at Joshua Tree. A terrible climb with not stars; can't remember the name of it.
Crux face moves on a slab down low, to a much easier flare to the top. The bolt at the crux made the crux moves mentally easy, but then I cried, whimpered, and almost pissed my pants while running it out to the top. I only had hexes and stoppers, and none of them were going to fit in that lousy groove.
It was fun when it was over though.
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