|
roughster
Feb 12, 2004, 2:23 AM
Post #51 of 104
(6506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2002
Posts: 4003
|
5.4 Y Crack at Minnehahas (sp?) in Spokane. I about shit my pants too :)
|
|
|
|
|
powpierre
Feb 12, 2004, 2:55 AM
Post #52 of 104
(6506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2003
Posts: 66
|
An 8 crack in Josh called popes crack I think, then Gelsa in the gunks quickly followed by Farewell to Arms also in the gunks
|
|
|
|
|
frantik
Feb 12, 2004, 3:00 AM
Post #53 of 104
(6506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 7, 2001
Posts: 128
|
my first trad lead was a 5.3 but I had climbed it before. my first trad onsight was 5.7.
|
|
|
|
|
okinawatricam
Feb 12, 2004, 3:59 AM
Post #54 of 104
(6506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 23, 2003
Posts: 420
|
Some unamed 5.4 at Goat Rock in California. Not only was it my first TRAD lead, it was my first climb. I own three nuts and a nylon rope. The following weekend, with the same rack I climb the Gully/crack right of Penthouse cracks in the valley. Felt like 13x then.
|
|
|
|
|
dynoguy
Feb 12, 2004, 4:05 AM
Post #55 of 104
(6506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 6, 2003
Posts: 730
|
Cinnamon Slab - 5.6 Smith Rock
|
|
|
|
|
thomaskeefer
Feb 12, 2004, 4:29 AM
Post #56 of 104
(6506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 24, 2002
Posts: 186
|
Ecstasy in Seneca (5.7). Had a great time but was crapping my pants since we were armed with little more than what we had read in Freedom of the Hills and 'Climbing Anchors' (and at that time the guys in those pics in Climbing Anchors looked to be in the latest fashion :) )
|
|
|
|
|
climbs4fun
Moderator
Feb 12, 2004, 4:33 AM
Post #57 of 104
(6506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 19, 2003
Posts: 9679
|
5.3 babeeeeeeeeeeeee!
|
|
|
|
|
amanda
Feb 13, 2004, 2:47 AM
Post #58 of 104
(6506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 19, 2003
Posts: 49
|
My first trad lead was Yellow Pages in Durango. An gentle 5.6 with big ledges every two or three moves. You could basically set up a grill, have a patio party and mingle with guests while you fiddled with placements. A very nice first experience.
|
|
|
|
|
gman
Feb 13, 2004, 5:02 AM
Post #59 of 104
(6506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 30, 2003
Posts: 152
|
Believe it or not as I am sure there will be doubters, but Diamond Dogs at Joshua. 10a 2 stars......big flake in to start, but once you get to the top of it, it's pretty easy.....
|
|
|
|
|
catbiter
Feb 13, 2004, 6:01 AM
Post #60 of 104
(6506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 12, 2003
Posts: 177
|
5.5 Candy Corner, Seneca Rocks
|
|
|
|
|
pancaketom
Feb 13, 2004, 6:11 AM
Post #61 of 104
(6506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 9, 2002
Posts: 391
|
warpy moople 5.9 I think. It was 7 or 8 pitches. we rock-paper-scissored and I got the first (and later crux ) pitch. I still think I have my record longest lead pitch on that climb (near 2 (yes 2) hours. off route, then ran out of rope shy of a ledge and had to retreat... great stuff) we almost had a full blown epic, but instead just finished in the dark. A wonderful adventure.
I think I tried to place a piece on a 10 at hueco before then on the way up to a high first bolt, but that doesn't really count.
the first "sport" lead was a run out slab (ripple) at enchanted rock. I think another 5.9, with crappy old bolts too. I did that a few years later (after the bolts had been replaced) and was wondering what I was thinking back then.
ps. doesn't diamond dogs have 3 or 4 bolts on it?
|
|
|
|
|
emtclimber
Feb 15, 2004, 3:00 AM
Post #62 of 104
(6506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 26, 2003
Posts: 263
|
First second was a 5.7 (at "roche de perdrix"), 3 pitch.
Gonna lead it next summer.
|
|
|
|
|
coldclimb
Feb 15, 2004, 3:09 AM
Post #63 of 104
(6506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2002
Posts: 6909
|
5.7. What a fun climb! :D
|
|
|
|
|
tweek
Feb 15, 2004, 3:24 AM
Post #64 of 104
(6506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2003
Posts: 171
|
5.1 Jtree. and you know what.... It was hard 8) .
|
|
|
|
|
far_east_climber
Feb 15, 2004, 3:28 AM
Post #65 of 104
(6506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2003
Posts: 873
|
5.8 - just yesterday 8)
|
|
|
|
|
joe
Feb 15, 2004, 4:03 AM
Post #66 of 104
(6506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 22, 2003
Posts: 897
|
In reply to: What was the grade of your first Trad Climb?
i'm pretty sure i got an F.
i didn't do the required reading. it sure was chossy.
|
|
|
|
|
hawaii_climbing_guy
Feb 15, 2004, 8:40 AM
Post #67 of 104
(6506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 14, 2003
Posts: 87
|
I don't know for sure what the official rating is, or even if an offical rating has been established. It was today at Mokuleia Wall on the west side of Oahu Island, on a 5.7 line. One pitch, then lowered off of a sport anchor for the next climber to top-rope from. Before that, I did Dr. Hook, a mixed sport/trad route that is rated 5.8. It's a tough lead, and the pro was something I probably shouldn't have been trying.
|
|
|
|
|
climb4fun
Feb 17, 2004, 5:20 PM
Post #68 of 104
(6506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 13, 2004
Posts: 3
|
My first time my knees shook and my hands sweated (a lot!) But when it was over I did two more and can't wait to get out and do it again. 5.6,5.7,5.7 at Sugarloaf Mtn MD. 5.6 never felt so hard ever!
|
|
|
|
|
vertical_reality
Feb 17, 2004, 5:36 PM
Post #69 of 104
(6506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 19, 2002
Posts: 2073
|
I haven't actually done my first trad climb yet but I got my eye on a nice 5.4 in Great Falls. Now I just need a car and some warm weather.
|
|
|
|
|
jumaringjeff
Feb 17, 2004, 5:55 PM
Post #70 of 104
(6506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 30, 2001
Posts: 1838
|
5.5 - Boardwalk, on the practice face at Crow Hill, MA. It's a nice 80ft slab with a few crack systems and small ledges every 20 feet or so. Bailed the first time due to sharp-end-terror, but came back later in the season and finished it.
|
|
|
|
|
hosh
Feb 17, 2004, 6:17 PM
Post #71 of 104
(6506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2003
Posts: 1662
|
I think the first Trad lead I did was a 5.8 or a 5.9. I don't remember...
|
|
|
|
|
nealric
Feb 21, 2004, 3:09 AM
Post #72 of 104
(6506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 21, 2004
Posts: 147
|
Mine was actually a first ascent (to my knowlege)
It was sugarloaf at macinac island near michigan. It was probably illegal to climb on it (macinac island is an uber turist attraction with gaurdrails in front of every cliff. I was 14 and had just bought a single set of nuts- that was all I had!
It was probably about 5.5- but lose. With my monster rack- I got in a grand total of 2 placements in about 60ft :)
|
|
|
|
|
euroford
Feb 21, 2004, 5:31 AM
Post #73 of 104
(6506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
|
one pitch of 5.6 and a second pitch of 5.7. followed the first and led the second.
|
|
|
|
|
deleted
Deleted
Feb 21, 2004, 5:37 AM
Post #74 of 104
(6872 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
on my first trad lead, i was way above my head and i decked and broke my back and face and now girls won't f me.
|
|
|
|
|
dorkmaster
Feb 22, 2004, 2:40 PM
Post #75 of 104
(6917 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 19, 2004
Posts: 268
|
Ahhh, *SIGH* Hee hee, i just kinda went to the base of the cliff, and picked a good line that look promising that wasnt in the guidebook :D and took the path of least resistance, 2 pitches on two sets of nuts! :lol: we used tree ledges as rap points and anchors...fun, probably 5.3...hardest part was the short overhang, maybe three feet. It had a small horizontal at the base, and then a crack splitting it above the lip. The whole pitch was all liceny and stuff too, because up here in Maine, if you dont clean it, you climb in licen! yuk. Any way, i plugged a nut into the crack above the overhang, extended the sling so it wouldnt create drag. Then i reached up for a finger jam in this crack. Then i realized that the only good jam was where i had put the nut :( :(...so, i fiddled with it for a little while, and finally got the nut up more and bagged the overhang move and finished the climb. Pretty fun :)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
