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moabbeth
Mar 20, 2004, 6:44 AM
Post #126 of 141
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Good god this thread is hilarious.
Note to rockscaler2.....please don't make assumptions about things you haven't tried. I'm curious how much time you actually spent in Josh, if you only did a couple of the more than 6,000 routes out there, you really haven't climbed there enough to make a blanket assessment on the JT ratings. Unless you walked in and onsighted Clean and Jerk and thought that was a soft 10c :roll: . And since you haven't been to the Valley yet, save your blanket assessments til you spend quality time there climbing at the grades up there...plenty of 5.8/9's up there that have humbled people that easily climb 5.10 back at their home crags.
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curt
Mar 20, 2004, 6:50 AM
Post #127 of 141
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In reply to: Good god this thread is hilarious. Note to rockscaler.....please don't make assumptions about things you haven't tried. I'm curious how much time you actually spent in Josh, if you only did a couple of the more than 6,000 routes out there, you really haven't climbed there enough to make a blanket assessment on the JT ratings. Unless you walked in and onsighted Clean and Jerk and thought that was a soft 10c :roll: . And since you haven't been to the Valley yet, save your blanket assessments til you spend quality time there climbing at the grades up there...plenty of 5.8/9's up there that have humbled people that easily climb 5.10 back at their home crags. I haven't responded to this thread yet because I've never climbed out east....which makes my opinion on the east coast grading issue irrelevant. Since I haven't climbed there, I have no business making statements about something I do not know of. Just some food for thought Joey.
Beth,
I have climbed well over 200 routes in the Gunks, most of them over 5.10 and I'm sure you would do fine there. The initial assertion of this asswipe is ridiculous.
Curt
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okinawatricam
Mar 22, 2004, 4:13 AM
Post #128 of 141
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Registered: Apr 23, 2003
Posts: 420
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I would say that many of us have been sucked into this thread. The whole thing, as pointed out already, is quite hilarious.
Wouldn’t is be nice if we could identify the people who post on this site when we see them climbing. That way. We could call their bluff.
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drkodos
Mar 22, 2004, 4:15 AM
Post #129 of 141
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Everywhere is soft.
All climbers are poseurs by definition.
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deafears
Mar 22, 2004, 4:40 AM
Post #130 of 141
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Curt wrote:
I have climbed well over 200 routes in the Gunks, most of them over 5.10 ...
You've climbed over 100 5.11 and up routes in the Gunks?
Pu-leeze. I call b.s. on this one. I could be wrong though -- tell me, what are the 10 best-quality 5.11 routes you've sent in da Gunks?
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drkodos
Mar 22, 2004, 5:18 AM
Post #131 of 141
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In reply to: Curt wrote: I have climbed well over 200 routes in the Gunks, most of them over 5.10 ... You've climbed over 100 5.11 and up routes in the Gunks? Pu-leeze. I call b.s. on this one. I could be wrong though -- tell me, what are the 10 best-quality 5.11 routes you've sent in da Gunks?
That is some weird math there, boy.
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offwidthclimber
Mar 22, 2004, 5:22 AM
Post #132 of 141
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you are all grade-concerned super wankers (except for those who are purposefully here to stir the pot and laugh).
if you have taken this debate seriously, please kill yourself at your earliest convenience.
in other words, WHO THE FF.UC.KK CARES?!?!?
losers.
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reno
Mar 22, 2004, 5:30 AM
Post #133 of 141
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In reply to: ... so for someone to say a 5.9 in Az or UT is a 5.9 and then go try to climb a 5.9 in NY Conn. it would not be pretty and I would expect someone to be in trouble so I would consider you guys the morons.
OK, I've been laughing so hard my PBR is spewing from my nose.
I've tried to be good... really, I have.
But THIS is too precious to resist. I'll probably go to climber's purgatory for it (For the un-initiated, climbing purgatory is akin to being in the Valley, with no rack, shoes, or credit card, while the days hover at a pleasant 60 degrees, with scattered clouds, a soft breeze, and Chongo calling out from camp "I need a partner... is there ANYONE here who knows how to climb?")
So... my question to the above statement is this: EXACTLY how can you be in trouble if you're climbing in the gym?"
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deafears
Mar 22, 2004, 5:32 AM
Post #134 of 141
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"I've climbed well over 200 routes in the Gunks, most of them over 5.10"
How does that not mean 101 or more routes over 5.10?
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curt
Mar 22, 2004, 5:50 AM
Post #135 of 141
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In reply to: "I've climbed well over 200 routes in the Gunks, most of them over 5.10" How does that not mean 101 or more routes over 5.10?
It does mean that, but that is not what you posted before. Go back and re-read your own post.
And, you were right to call BS in this case--I estimated. I went back and looked in my guide book--and I have done 60 or so routes in the Gunks over 5.10, not 100. I have done over 200 total routes there, so I was incorrect to say that "most" of the climbs I did there were over 5.10. Only about 30 percent of the routes I have done there are over 5.10 rather than 50 percent. Are you happy now? :wink:
Curt
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deafears
Mar 22, 2004, 2:08 PM
Post #136 of 141
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Happy now? Yep.
I've climbed a decent number of 5.11s in the Gunks, but for me that only means 23 of them (and 6 5.12- routes). So, 60 is a very nice tick list -- kudos to ya'.
Just out of curiosity, we're talking leads here, right? In my experience, after you do the best dozen or so 5.11s in the Gunks, the routes get pretty scarry (where as there are heaps of well-protected 5.10s to choose from). My favorite 5.11 pitches are the last two of Enduro Man.
Back on topic, grades out here in the West are way more variable than in the Northeast. I did a nice, steep mixed-pro route on granite yesterday. If you could move the same route from area to area here in Colorado, it might get anywhere from 5.10+ to 5.12-. I've also noticed that downgrading is considered a sport unto its self here.
It's silly, I think, to keep compressing the grade scale the way some crumudgens like to. The logic for many seems to be, "If I could get up the route (nevermind the two hangs), it can't be harder than 5.whatever." Followed by, "maybe it's harder if you onsight it, but once you learn about the 20-foot traverse to a ledge, it gets way easier."
The Gunks is a perfect example of ratings becoming distorted. The 5.10s range from pretty easy to savagely hard, because so many climbers invested their egos in downrating other folks' routes. I was glad to see Dick Williams upgrading many classic climbs in his more recent guidebooks. Re-grading routes, rather than keeping their "classic" ratings as sacrosanct, is the only way to keep the system accurate.
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ambler
Mar 22, 2004, 2:22 PM
Post #137 of 141
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In reply to: In reply to: The only place out west I've found to be weak sofar is at Red Rocks.. I bet you haven't been on any trad routes then. Try Delicate Sound of Thunder
Wholesome Fullback
Only the Good Die Young Then get back to me. |
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dingus
Mar 22, 2004, 3:18 PM
Post #138 of 141
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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You eastern climbers sure talk funny, I'll give you that.
DMT
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camhead
Mar 22, 2004, 3:56 PM
Post #139 of 141
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I've read barely any of this thread. sorry. all I'll say is this–
If I had a nickel for every gunkie that I've seen get spanked on 5.10 at the Creek, I'd be fricking loaded. regardless of softness of ratings or not, they and their crack technique get schooled.
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shorty
Mar 22, 2004, 4:12 PM
Post #140 of 141
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Registered: Apr 28, 2003
Posts: 1266
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In reply to: Id lik to continuu yer diskusshin of klimbin and gradz, but ur a fuktard and dont no anniething about ether won ov thoze. If U want to go boldering or klimming with me sumtime mabe we can kontinuu this debait. We will fer sure sort this out won whey or teh udder. Mabbe I ken help U wif yer dentel werk 2. Now go and pop yer zitz and hed off to bed.
u R mi noo heroe. if I kan evur maek it 2 Arazoena agin 2 klime, I wil by U a beer and bee ur belay slav. i think I kan folloe teh roots in arazoena, cus thay r "scaled" so easee. "lol"
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deafears
Mar 22, 2004, 5:24 PM
Post #141 of 141
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Posts: 103
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... and I-Creek climbers get spanked on big roofs. What a surprise (especially because the hardest single move in all of the Creek is about 5.10).
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