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moeman
Nov 26, 2004, 5:28 PM
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Sport: Some 5.9 at Wild Iris, WY. The most memorable thing about it was that the wind was so strong that when I got hit by a gust mid-crux I barn doored and almost fell off.
Trad: Beginners Corner, 5.5 at Rocks State Park, MD.
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ben87
Nov 26, 2004, 5:58 PM
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trad -- ragged edges at red rocks. I think I followed this before I then went and led it myself.
sport -- mass production wall at red rocks. A 5.8, a 5.9, then a 5.10a. All of these were rehearsed on TR before I led them.
-Ben
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mr_muffey
Nov 26, 2004, 6:48 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 39
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I was lucky enough to be a tag along with some more experianced climbers on a relaxing day out in Snowdonia national park in Nothern Wales. I lead a few of the pitches of great arete (I think it was about 8 pitches) as royal airforce jets roared up the valley below us. The last pitch was climbed in the rain which was interesting as that a first for me too. The route was put up in 1914 (I think..) back when they used a hemp rope tied around there waste and wooden chocks for protection. It was cool to start off on an ancient classic
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bootleg
Nov 26, 2004, 7:04 PM
Post #54 of 122
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Registered: Jun 28, 2003
Posts: 59
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First trad lead was Second Coming (5.7) at Looking glass rock in NC.
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coreydacat
Nov 26, 2004, 7:42 PM
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Registered: Jun 3, 2004
Posts: 79
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my first trad lead was the bong, 5.4 at Jtree.
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chanceboarder
Nov 26, 2004, 7:50 PM
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can't remember my first sport lead, i think it was a 5.6 at Williamson Rock.
first trad lead was Jensen's Jaunt 5.6 at Tahquitz.
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 26, 2004, 8:18 PM
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There's a whole lotta sprayin' going on here! I find it hard to believe that people's first leads were 10' and 11's, but whatever. My first sport was a 5.4 called A Week With Pete @ Rumney and my first trad was also a 5.4 at Denrock Park in Lawrence, MA.
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snoopy138
Nov 26, 2004, 8:49 PM
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First lead -- Turkey Hooks, a short 5.8 dihedral at Enchanted Rock in TX.
First trad lead -- Gelsa, 5.4, Gunks -- the laundry list of mistakes included ... not properly protecting the second on the P1 traverse, getting off route on P2 and making the climb harder than 5.4, being pumped from that and setting up a less-than-spectacular anchor at the top of the pitch, and overprotecting P3 so that I was clipping pro with lockers and no slings towards the top.
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treddy
Nov 26, 2004, 9:15 PM
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Seem to be a lot of lovers leap here...my first real trad lead was Bear's Reach (5.7) at lovers leap...awesome and very scary all at the same time.
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climbinginchico
Nov 26, 2004, 9:37 PM
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First trad lead (and lead ever) was Puppy Crack 5.6 in Tuolumne Meadows.
Actually, before that I had led the runout top pitch of South Crack 5.8 (I think the top pitch was like 5.4 tops), about a 130 foot pitch with NO pro. But I built a nice anchor with aliens at the top. :D
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lazyjammin
Nov 26, 2004, 10:36 PM
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Registered: Nov 2, 2004
Posts: 200
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Sport: Unknown at Mickeys Beach 5.10a two bolts then anchors with first bolt like 14 feet off the ground, scary especially since it was my first lead anywhere and no one I was with had any experience with leading. Fun though.
Trad: Great Pumpkin in Tuolumne Meadows 5.8R. First Multipitch lead too.
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gilfy
Nov 26, 2004, 10:41 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 5
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A 5.8 rather overbolted climb at the Red River Gorge, i Top roped it first.
fun!
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olejeff
Nov 26, 2004, 10:59 PM
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Registered: Oct 1, 2004
Posts: 99
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My first sport lead was a 5.7, Mild Mannered Secretary, at Pilot Mtn State Park near Winston Salem NC. First trad lead was there also, the Dihedral Route. I believe it was a 5.7 also.
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brutusofwyde
Nov 26, 2004, 11:05 PM
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
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My first "trad" lead (It wasn't Trad in those days) was Underpass at Intersection Rock in Joshua Tree, in 1973.
Don't rightly remember what my first "sport" lead was, because I was climbing them before the term was coined. Just thought of them as well-bolted climbs, sometimes with the bolts placed on rappel, and hence the first lead of one such was not remarkable as a life-changing event.
First attempt at a multi-day climb was East Buttress of El Cap.
Brutus
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cyanamid
Nov 26, 2004, 11:22 PM
Post #65 of 122
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Registered: Apr 8, 2004
Posts: 161
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First sport lead was a 3 bolt 5.9 at Fucoidal Quartzite in Logan canyon that I can't remember the name of.
First trad lead, I believe were the 2nd and 4th (traverse?) pitches on Cat in the Hat in Red Rocks. I believe the whole route is rated 5.7, I don't know what the individual pitches were rated though.
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roninthorne
Nov 27, 2004, 1:01 AM
Post #66 of 122
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Registered: Nov 27, 2002
Posts: 659
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First trad/lead and first whipper- the classic 5.8 BM, Chimney Rocks, VA... now sadly closed to climbing.
First sport lead and winger- Potential Energy, Franklin Gorge, WV, thankfully still open if shamefully deteriorating...
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edge
Nov 27, 2004, 1:22 AM
Post #67 of 122
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Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120
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I have absolutely no idea what my first lead was.
You can bet, however, that :
It was trad. Everything rap bolted in NH in the late 70's was chopped immediately.
I used only stoppers and hexes. Cams were not yet "invented" for the masses.
It was probably a one pitch 5.6 or something that I lead on my first rope, a 3/8" goldline.
My daughter, on the other hand, lead her first sport route at the age of 10. The Whimpy-Gilman Ridge at Rumney, 5.4.
Her first trad lead was the first pitch of Cathedral Peak in Tuolumne, earlier this year.
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wyattearp
Nov 27, 2004, 1:24 AM
Post #68 of 122
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Registered: Sep 27, 2003
Posts: 365
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TaNKS to Hueco
Penittnete Canyon
5.10d 11-12 draws Great Climb :D
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greenmachineman7
Nov 27, 2004, 2:11 AM
Post #69 of 122
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Registered: Jul 29, 2004
Posts: 108
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lol, i actually did my first trad lead before my first sport lead.
trad was Wafer Step, 5.5 in Acadia
sport was some climb on the 5.8 wall in Rumney.
huh.
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ikellen
Nov 27, 2004, 7:17 AM
Post #70 of 122
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Registered: Nov 13, 2003
Posts: 393
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Sport: Oompa Loompa, 5.8 at Owens River Gorge
Trad: The Stairs, 5.3 at Mission Gorge, CA
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mheyman
Nov 27, 2004, 2:48 PM
Post #71 of 122
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Registered: Jul 25, 2002
Posts: 607
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1. Suprise/Wine Colour 5.4 Mt Minsi Delaware Water Gap
2. Triumverate 5.4 Mt Tammany Delaware Water Gap
Still the only decent photo I have of myself, from the classic spot.
3. Horseman 5.5 Gunks Just did this climb for my second time last weekend. One of the nicest 5.5s anywhere. Didn't appreciate as much the first time.
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rocks4jules
Nov 27, 2004, 5:03 PM
Post #72 of 122
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Registered: Jul 27, 2002
Posts: 287
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My first sport lead was on a new bolted route, which they named as a 5.9. Not bad for my first. Then I went downhill from there. I went to lead a 5.8, got "schetched," then I never wanted to get on the horse again. I tried a 5.7 a couple of months later, but never really desired the challenge. That was well over a year ago. Now, I have gone climbing at J-tree, climbed with friends at Ingalls Peak (a three pitch), and I am now into Alpine and ice climbing class in February. I think my fears have now mellowed somewhat, and I also found that the company I was keeping didn't help. The lesson here is to trust the ones you climb with, and never give up. My 2 cents worth. Thanks . . . :P
Jules
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girlclimb
Nov 27, 2004, 5:14 PM
Post #73 of 122
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Registered: Oct 5, 2003
Posts: 197
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first sport lead was master piece a 5.10a at rumney, nh. havn't lead quite yet on trad although i did get to do a mock lead on they died laughing at cathedral wich went awesome... thats my goal for next season.
~k
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jakedatc
Nov 27, 2004, 5:19 PM
Post #74 of 122
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Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
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sport: some unknown 5.7 at rumney (the beginning of the addiction hehe mmm rumney)
trad: Pete 5.4 at Pawtuckaway
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climb_plastic
Nov 27, 2004, 5:28 PM
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Registered: Sep 24, 2003
Posts: 706
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hmmm....in this thread I noticed the same theme. In sport you generally remember the difficulty grade first and not the route name but in trad you almost always remember the route name. I think that goes with the same theme as other trad vs. sport conversations where sport climbing is really about the difficulty rating and trad is about the mental toughness and character of the route. And so you tend to remember the difficulty rating and crux of the sport climb and you remember the name of the trad route and scariest part of it.
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