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gremlin
Dec 8, 2004, 7:50 PM
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Registered: Sep 1, 2004
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Going to Stone Mountain this weekend, hopefully get my first trad lead there, probably on the Arch. Not sure I'm up to No Alternative yet.
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tradboulderer
Dec 8, 2004, 8:03 PM
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Trad: Betty (5.2) in the Gunks. I placed gear every two feet for practice. The next lead I did that day was the 2nd pitch of Frog's Head 5.5+. What a rush! It was actually vertical and exposed. That was also my first multi-pitch. It was a life altering experience.
Sport: don't remember my first sport lead, probably just some Rumney 5.7. It was after my trad lead so it was no big deal. But I remember my first whip! Wiamea, baby! It was only about 6 or 8 feet, but it was exciting.
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crotch
Dec 8, 2004, 8:53 PM
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My first lead was one of the cracks around the corner from Fairwell To Arms at Cragmont in Berkeley. I don't know if it has a name. Anyway, it's an easy 30-foot crack to a bolted anchor.
I used to go to Cragmont between classes and toprope solo the climbs. My first time trying this on the steep route to the right of Fairwell To Arms, I fell off near the top and was left hanging in space by my Ropeman ascender and backup prussic. I spent a good 15 minutes flopping around like a fish on a boat deck trying all sorts of swinging and body-tension shenanigans to get back to the rock. So much for the brute force approach. Perhaps a more elegant solution was available.
Of course, there were some other people there watching the whole thing, but I was too proud to ask for help. I got myself into the mess and I was going to get myself out of it too.
I tried to rig a rappel, but had no idea how to unweight the ropeman. Despite having read Freedom of the Hills cover to cover in at least 3 languages, it didn't occur to me to use the ropeman and prussic to ascend to the top of the cliff. A half-hour later after various permutations of the Garda Knot, Bachmann - you name it - I derived a way to get my weight off the ropeman so that I could rappel.
Having impressed everyone at the crag with my self-rescue prowess, I considered my work done and packed up and left. Thankfully, I didn't remember any of the people who were there, so I've was spared the embarassment of seeing them again on future visits.
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elgecko
Dec 8, 2004, 9:39 PM
Post #104 of 122
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Me too!
Bolted: The Trough, Big Rock, CA
Trad: Right On, Joshua Tree, CA
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ron_burgandy
Dec 8, 2004, 9:55 PM
Post #105 of 122
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 186
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my first lead was a 4 bolt 5.8( thats my guess now- as i have done it many times since then) at Exit 38 it is unnamed and unrated in all of the books that i have seen
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saskrock
Dec 9, 2004, 6:18 AM
Post #106 of 122
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Registered: Oct 10, 2004
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First lead on bolts was: 11b in Krabi, Thailand
As for Trad I am considering learning this summer but was wondering if I red point 12's and could easily solo 10's is there a problem with staring here?
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fire_or_retire
Dec 9, 2004, 7:04 AM
Post #107 of 122
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First Sport-Some 5.9 scary slab at Hartman's Rocks near Gunnison.
First Trad- 30 seconds over Potash Moab. I think it is 5.8. Not only was it my first time placing gear but I was a sport climber at the time climbing my first desert crack. I fell in the middle of a lie back on the first 10 feet but my stopper held and I struggled upward. When I finally got to the chains and lowered off my buddy walked over and said "nice job Chris I finished 3 beers while you were climbing." oh memories
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neutralcypruss
Dec 9, 2004, 12:34 PM
Post #108 of 122
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Registered: Feb 22, 2003
Posts: 74
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:twisted: my first sport lead was a 5.9 and my first trad lead was 5.8 but had a tr back up then i lead 5.5 :twisted:
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omeier
Dec 14, 2004, 1:52 AM
Post #109 of 122
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Registered: Jun 30, 2004
Posts: 60
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My first sport lead was a 5.6 called Turtle Piss on Y-Crack boulder at Pinnacle peak. As for my first trad lead, that was at Castle Rock SP by Santa Cruz, a little different from Arizona, nice and mossy.
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g
Deleted
Dec 14, 2004, 2:33 AM
Post #110 of 122
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My first sport lead was a route on the right side of the TR/instruction wall at Sylvan Lake, SD (I even have a picture of that somewhere).
First trad lead was the first pitch of New Wave at Devils Tower.
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lazyjammin
Dec 14, 2004, 2:38 AM
Post #111 of 122
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Registered: Nov 2, 2004
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First sport lead: some .10a with two bolts what shouldve been a stick clip at the first and anchors about thirty five feet up
First trad lead: 4th pitch 5.9 in the Sierras (I actually forget the name of the place)
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yofukinsemite
Dec 14, 2004, 3:10 AM
Post #112 of 122
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My first lead was at the Fontucky Crag(fontana ca) ....fukin choss pile... i was pretty lit which can be pretty bad for my climbing... anywho.. sweet hand cracks at the start of the pitch but we couldnt see much above...god wes stupid! so i get up to the crux of the pitch after not placing for about 20 feet or so... the scariest 5.7 bulgy, slabby crux ever! holds where breakin like no other! i was thinkin to myself what the hell did we get ourselves into? so after debating the crux for about 10 minutes...which there was no option of retreat anyway....i got out of my head and finally went for it...it was fukin cake but really exposed....gotta get out of the head...thats whats its all about! but yeah....it was maaaad sketch....learned a good lesson...
Sincerely
yofukin dumbass
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forkliftdaddy
Dec 14, 2004, 7:07 PM
Post #113 of 122
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Registered: Jun 3, 2003
Posts: 408
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first lead -- mild mannered secretary, bolted 5.7, pilot mountain
first gear lead -- pee break, 5.6, pilot mountain
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jerseyclimber
Dec 14, 2004, 7:40 PM
Post #114 of 122
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Registered: Aug 6, 2004
Posts: 38
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Trad- Practice Climb 5.2 Ralph Stover State Park
Sport-Hoot 5.8 Bishop
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send513
Dec 14, 2004, 8:43 PM
Post #115 of 122
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Registered: Sep 16, 2002
Posts: 103
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no freaking idea for sport...
for gear it was Finger Locks or Ceder Box (5.4) and then Center Earth (5.7).
first sport fall... 11a, Delayed Stress Syndrome the DC Memorial Bolder, WV (its not very tall and I ended up looking at my belayer, kind of scary in retrospect).
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lambone
Dec 16, 2004, 9:12 AM
Post #116 of 122
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Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1399
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Crepes Corner (5.7 trad), Pie Shop. Lake Tahoe, Ca.
With my mentor Ryan Shreve, RIP bro.
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dew4theq
Dec 16, 2004, 1:40 PM
Post #117 of 122
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Registered: Feb 26, 2004
Posts: 27
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My first sport lead was a 5.8 at Sexwall.
My first trad lead was a 5.9 called "Blue Rose" at Ilchester, MD.
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alex234
Jan 4, 2005, 5:02 AM
Post #118 of 122
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Registered: May 19, 2004
Posts: 89
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Sport: 5.9 somewhere in western mass
Trad: 5.4 First Crack at Pinnicle Rock In CT
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onbelay_osu
Jan 5, 2005, 4:43 PM
Post #119 of 122
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Registered: May 5, 2002
Posts: 1087
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Sport lead: Taco Time 5.7 Witchitas
Trad lead: Mild and Wild 5.7 Wtichitas
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onbelay007
Jan 9, 2005, 5:47 AM
Post #120 of 122
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Registered: Apr 20, 2004
Posts: 107
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Gosh, my first lead was some 5.4 at Eldo (all nut and hexes because that's all that we had). I've never done a sport climb but damn, can you remember what it felt like to do your first lead climb? My first outdoor climb happened to be a lead climb for me. My first real challenging lead was a 5.6 at Devil's Lake called Brinton's crack. It is only a 5.6 but I think it's rather stout (even now).
Wow, my first experience leading will be one I will never forget. One of the greatest days of my life. So much emotion. For those who haven't lead, go for it and you will understand.
Cheers!
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ozgirl
Jan 10, 2005, 11:05 AM
Post #121 of 122
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Registered: Oct 17, 2002
Posts: 37
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First trad lead was on the back wall of Bushranger's Bluff at Arapiles, VIC. I don't remember how hard it was cos the sun heated up my shoes so much they tightened an extra few sizes and nearly singed my toes off.
My first sport lead was a much nicer affairr - gritty Blue Mountains sandstone, and in the shade. A pleasant 16. It's crazy how much weather influences your climbing!
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aztec6561
Jan 10, 2005, 11:16 AM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 34
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First lead was some scrappy, slabby, and filthy 5.3 in the Delaware River Gap
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