|
danpayne
Feb 1, 2005, 2:31 AM
Post #51 of 138
(14439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 17, 2004
Posts: 278
|
In reply to: My only nasty fall was caught by a good old fassioned #5 hex. It was my first placment on an off route coss plie. A #6 Huevo (aka Smiley, aka Stopper) popped, as did the #1 Trango Flex cam above it. The cam had inverted lobes, so milled cam stops might have helped, but this was the old rolled pin style. I came to rest upside down, 2 feet off the rocks on the deck and staring at my pale belayer. He had thrown himself on the ground to take up as much slack as he could as the pieces were blowing. His head was higher up than mine. Oh yeah, he was wearing the helmet. I now own 2.
That is one hell of a belayer...
|
|
|
|
|
bighigaz
Feb 1, 2005, 2:44 AM
Post #52 of 138
(14439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2002
Posts: 696
|
The one and only YELLOW Alien! Not a particularly long fall, but a blind placement just before I slipped... lucky for me it held, or I would've decked.
|
|
|
|
|
kachoong
Feb 1, 2005, 4:25 AM
Post #53 of 138
(14439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
|
....the happiest I've been after falling on trad gear was falling 15 feet onto a horizontally opposed #3BD wire and a #5BD wired hex in a horizontal break.... I had clipped the wire to a sling and passed the sling through the biner on the wired hex and clipped the rope to it.... they pulled towards each other just as I'd hoped (planned :wink: ).... made me trust my placements even more....
|
|
|
|
|
timmy_t
Feb 24, 2005, 11:24 PM
Post #54 of 138
(14439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2004
Posts: 128
|
I had a #2 forged friend catch me on two lobes on the cam stops after slipping into a pod and sliding down the crack 6 inches while I was falling. I also just took a 15 footer onto a #3 BD stopper about 17 feet off the ground last weekend. Those were the most confidence inspiring falls so far, really didn't expect either to hold.
|
|
|
|
|
jstumpf
Feb 24, 2005, 11:52 PM
Post #55 of 138
(14439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 12, 2001
Posts: 33
|
I took numerous falls on a #2 Camalot when I first started leading, all on the same route. Didn't take another fall again until a #4 DMM stopper caught me after a 25 footer at JT. Beauty of a placement. Sure wish I woulda been wearing a helmet, though.
|
|
|
|
|
irockclimbtoo
Feb 25, 2005, 12:58 AM
Post #56 of 138
(14439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2004
Posts: 309
|
ab
|
|
|
|
|
irockclimbtoo
Feb 25, 2005, 1:01 AM
Post #57 of 138
(14439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2004
Posts: 309
|
ab
|
|
|
|
|
johnnym
Feb 25, 2005, 1:09 AM
Post #58 of 138
(14439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 21, 2005
Posts: 149
|
Number 1 hex - see http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=44884
|
|
|
|
|
stevoreno
Feb 25, 2005, 2:46 AM
Post #59 of 138
(14439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 21, 2004
Posts: 2
|
The BD Camalot #2 is my old faithful and has taken most of my falls. Most notably during a recent trip to the Gritstone where the #2 was one of only two pieces placed.
Walter I'm sure there's a reason you brought your dirty undies,
That's right dude, the weight. The ringer cannot look empty.
|
|
|
|
|
mtnlvr
Feb 25, 2005, 3:42 AM
Post #60 of 138
(14439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 3, 2003
Posts: 65
|
A bolt.
No trad falls yet (must not be climbing hard enough) but I have had 1 fall outdoors on a sport lead.
Kinda knew what was coming. I couldn't make the last move to the next bolt so I told my belayer to "watch me", and I lunged for it. Slapped the hold and my weary fingers slowly peel off as I sunk about 8'. Felt like more! Recouped a bit and finished it off.
|
|
|
|
|
halepierce
Feb 25, 2005, 3:50 AM
Post #61 of 138
(14439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 26, 2003
Posts: 38
|
Fell 12-15 feet on a green alien. I was at the top of the route so the rope stretch made it nice and cushy. It was my first fall on gear and a nice confidance booster.
|
|
|
|
|
gunksgoer
Feb 25, 2005, 4:30 AM
Post #62 of 138
(14439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 1290
|
clear alien, shifted ( :roll: ) but held
it was only like 10 or so feet, and i theoretically had a TR backup, but the belay side of that rope had been forgotten... im glad the alien held.
|
|
|
|
|
tenn_dawg
Feb 25, 2005, 4:57 AM
Post #63 of 138
(14439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 14, 2002
Posts: 3045
|
I'm a pretty crappy climber, so I've taken lots of falls onto trad gear. Everything from a small smilies nut to a honking #4 camalot.
They'll all hold if you place them well.
|
|
|
|
|
rock_diva
Feb 25, 2005, 11:46 PM
Post #64 of 138
(14439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 24, 2002
Posts: 320
|
My first fall was on a DMM #1 (small blue)
|
|
|
|
|
esallen
Feb 26, 2005, 4:09 AM
Post #65 of 138
(14439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 11, 2004
Posts: 304
|
A bolt . . ha ha ha ha ha
|
|
|
|
|
phxtradrock
Feb 26, 2005, 4:32 AM
Post #66 of 138
(14439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 2, 2004
Posts: 58
|
Haha "not falling makes climbing safe" -not quite sure who said that first but they were right! of course placing gear properly also makes climbing safe. I have fallen onto a number of DMM cams (all 4CU) but the scariest fall ever was only about 10 feet onto a #1 brass micronut. The #1 ripped out and I dropped another 10 feet onto the #2 and #3 brass micronuts which i had equalized using a runner and locking biner. Its a bad feeling when gear blows out
|
|
|
|
|
stymingersfink
Feb 28, 2005, 3:09 AM
Post #67 of 138
(14439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
Oct 2004
25'+ onto a
#2 pecker
from above the Black Tower. Two-lobe blue-black alien placement failed, left me hanging 8-10' from the wall, midway up the tower proper. It was an uber-clean fall.
I have lately started thinking more about what would have happened if the pecker hadn't caught me, then realize I'd rather not think about it.
Probably would have broken both legs on the ledge there, then fallen another 75-90' onto the last piece before the pecker, a sawed angle at the base of the tower. *shivver*
|
|
|
|
|
glyrocks
Feb 28, 2005, 3:16 AM
Post #68 of 138
(14439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 614
|
13cm BD ice screw with a Yates Screamer. Was only about 10 feet, but scary nonetheless.
Had an Alien break, then a nut pop before another nut kept me from rolling of the ledge I face planted on, with no injuries strangely enough.
Scariest was learning how to aid today. Had an #8 HB offset about halfway in this little boxy-shaped hole. I put it in, weighted it, top-stepped, and put in a #3 BD stopper that looked so much better than the offset. It, however, promptly popped. I am in love with that offset placement. Aid is freaky nuts.
|
|
|
|
|
tattooed_climber
Feb 28, 2005, 3:27 AM
Post #69 of 138
(14439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2003
Posts: 4838
|
first trad fall today
a gold (#1) WC forged friend, camming was perfect, one lobe was near the edge of a crack in a somewhat shallow placement.
a peeled off the rock and fell about 15 feet.
|
|
|
|
|
labrat0065
Feb 28, 2005, 3:34 AM
Post #70 of 138
(14439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 6, 2004
Posts: 122
|
as of today, i put down a 20-30 foot wipp on a red/yellow hybrid alien!!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
slobmonster
Feb 28, 2005, 4:41 AM
Post #71 of 138
(14439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 28, 2003
Posts: 1586
|
I don't know if I've entered this discussion yet...
Significant (longer) falls:
30 feet onto a #3 Wild Country Rock
40 (+?) feet onto a 13 cm ice screw
25ish feet onto a hand-sized cam of some sort
Who cares? The more significant question is what did NOT catch your fall.
|
|
|
|
|
glyrocks
Feb 28, 2005, 4:52 AM
Post #72 of 138
(14439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 614
|
In reply to: I don't know if I've entered this discussion yet... Significant (longer) falls: 30 feet onto a #3 Wild Country Rock 40 (+?) feet onto a 13 cm ice screw 25ish feet onto a hand-sized cam of some sort Who cares? The more significant question is what did NOT catch your fall.
Is there a story with that? (Repentence pictures are great, by the way- very impressive climb.)
|
|
|
|
|
tenn_dawg
Feb 28, 2005, 5:26 AM
Post #73 of 138
(14439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 14, 2002
Posts: 3045
|
Once I took a 375 footer onto a sideways placed chevy valve stem.
|
|
|
|
|
golsen
Mar 15, 2005, 3:33 AM
Post #74 of 138
(14439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 1, 2005
Posts: 361
|
In about 1980 I bought some gear from a guy at te Gat Buttress Parking Lot in Little Cottonwood Canyon. One of the pieces was an SMC CAMLOCK, a nut that cammed. It was thread with about 6mm perlon. On a climb called Old Reliable (which interestingly has fallen off) There is a 5.10 roof way up high, it is (was) basically a 1" finger crack through the roof. This was to be my first on-site 10 and I made it through the lower crux and used the cam lock to protect this parallel sided finger crack. Damn I fell and my partner couldnt see me, I went about 15-20 feet, nice clean fall. I actually fell twice more before pulling it off. The perlon on the camlock was toast and the mantle was shredded....glad it held. Gotto watch that used stuff...
|
|
|
|
|
nrvna963
Mar 15, 2005, 3:37 AM
Post #75 of 138
(14439 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 29, 2004
Posts: 156
|
last weekend i took 2 40 footers on 2 equalized RURP's
|
|
|
|
|
|
