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phaedrus
Mar 15, 2005, 3:44 AM
Post #76 of 138
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Registered: Sep 24, 2002
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Took my first trad fall onto gear I'd placed a couple of weeks ago onto a #3 Camalot... only a couple of feet, but it felt like a couple of hundred. The piece held and I wanted to find the person responsible for that specific piece of gear and give them the biggest, most passionate kiss I've ever given anyone, ever. :lol:
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thomaskeefer
Mar 15, 2005, 4:49 AM
Post #77 of 138
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Registered: Oct 24, 2002
Posts: 186
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In reply to: = Had an Alien break, then a nut pop before another nut kept me from rolling of the ledge I face planted on, with no injuries strangely enough.
Care to share why you think you broke this alien?
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ncclimber
Mar 15, 2005, 8:52 PM
Post #78 of 138
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Registered: May 5, 2003
Posts: 104
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In reply to: last weekend i took 2 40 footers on 2 equalized RURP's |
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nrvna963
Mar 23, 2005, 9:02 PM
Post #79 of 138
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Registered: Feb 29, 2004
Posts: 156
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Mine and leban's new free climb on the north face of looking glass. I forgot to mention that he fell in the same spot after my two falls and he ripped them out, and took a 60 footer on his head.
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nurocks
Mar 23, 2005, 9:20 PM
Post #80 of 138
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Registered: Jul 19, 2003
Posts: 788
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I recently took a 15-20 footer on a #10 chouinard nut. I placed it blind, gave it a couple of tugs...it didn't move. I exited from under the roof above me and climbed past the nut...well two moves past it and then fell. All in all it was fun and I didn't even damage the cable.
Jason
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the_climber
Mar 23, 2005, 9:35 PM
Post #81 of 138
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
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Haven't fallen on gear for a couple of seasons, but the last two falls were on a #5 smiley and a #3.5 forged friend.
The smiley was not an ideal placement, but held quite well. It is a true testiment as to how hard a nut can be to clean if it is not an ideal placement... despite much time spent trying to clean it, it still remains in the rock.
The friend... it started as a good placement, caught the first fall... walked before the second fall... the "ping" sound that it made when it popped still rings in my ears. I swear that piece was going mock 2 when it came out :shock:
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boss
Mar 23, 2005, 9:45 PM
Post #82 of 138
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Registered: Sep 29, 2002
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Hmmmmm I'd say my two best falls were a 30 footer on a #4 BD stopper and a 20 footer on a #1 BD Cam. Needless to say, the fall onto the #4 stopper was a bit scarier!
-boss
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jackhammer
Mar 26, 2005, 4:02 PM
Post #83 of 138
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Registered: Dec 22, 2004
Posts: 255
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First and only lead fall...30 footer on a #8 Huevo Nut...and it held.
To this day, it's my favorite piece.
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esallen
Jun 13, 2005, 1:29 AM
Post #84 of 138
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Registered: Jul 11, 2004
Posts: 304
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Took a 20-footer onto a 00 Metolius TCU yesterday. Was on Two-Nut Muffin 10.a in Rock canyon and came off just above the crux. The thing held and probably kept me from decking (I stopped about 4 feet above ground). Gotta love those Metolius TCUs . . . gotta love 'em. . .
Eric
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jmahoney
Jun 13, 2005, 2:26 AM
Post #85 of 138
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Registered: May 20, 2003
Posts: 5
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A MOAC on one inch blue webbing stopped my first leader fall. It is basically a pre stopper design from about 1970. I can't remember the others.
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villageidiot
Jun 13, 2005, 3:43 AM
Post #86 of 138
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Registered: May 12, 2005
Posts: 104
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Five ft on a #10 BD stopper. My toes were 2-3 inches from the deck.
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healyje
Jun 13, 2005, 8:30 PM
Post #87 of 138
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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
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In reply to: Hmmmmm I'd say my two best falls were a 30 footer on a #4 BD stopper and a 20 footer on a #1 BD Cam. Needless to say, the fall onto the #4 stopper was a bit scarier! -boss
Good on your game, that's taking your chops. Though I'll take a stopper over a cam any day of the week...! For some of us old guys cams will always be more suspect than stoppers, even #4's...
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trevzilla
Jun 13, 2005, 8:36 PM
Post #88 of 138
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Registered: Sep 24, 2004
Posts: 164
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30 footer on a #9 Stopper on epinephrine. I was a little off route. Thought it was a lot harder than a 5.7 pitch. (Pitch 4 I believe). It held very nicely though!
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flipnfall
Jun 13, 2005, 9:08 PM
Post #89 of 138
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Registered: May 18, 2004
Posts: 717
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30 foot whipper on a size 3 BD stopper.
8^)
GT
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joshy8200
Jun 13, 2005, 9:21 PM
Post #90 of 138
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Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 646
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I took about a 5 foot fall onto a new #1 C4 on 'Zig' at New River Gorge. And I've fallen about 5 feet on medium size nut on 'Harpoon' at Ship Rock.
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halcyon
Jun 13, 2005, 9:29 PM
Post #91 of 138
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Registered: Jun 26, 2003
Posts: 227
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Never fallen on trad... is that bad? Is it a right of passage? Will I trust my gear more? Am I missing out? Usually I sew my pitches up nicely, and when I get sketched out I throw in another nut... occasionally french freeing them (pretending i'm tugging to check the placement so my parter is none the wiser :wink: )... dang, I suck. I'm gonna go fall....
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korntera
Jun 14, 2005, 6:24 AM
Post #92 of 138
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Registered: May 14, 2004
Posts: 422
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I had a shitty blue cam placed(rock empire) and it was a bad placement but i knew it would at least slow me down. I took a fall, it pulled and 20 feet below where i started, i came to a stop on a yellow(#1 rock empire)
-Travis Smith
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pbcowboy77
Jun 22, 2005, 3:27 AM
Post #93 of 138
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Registered: Jun 9, 2002
Posts: 574
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My first 6 lead falls were on my .5 camalot. Finally I just took a 25 footer on my green allien. I hate placing my .5 now, gives me a total head trip and it seems like I have to place it when I'm all freaked out. :shock:
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skinner
Jun 22, 2005, 4:14 AM
Post #94 of 138
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 1747
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A single, small, old knife-blade, when a small overhang I was working let go. The thing that shocked me the most about the fall, was the knife-blade stopping me. As I hung upside down, spinning around all I could think of was; "No way that frikken little blade held.. The rope must have caught itself somewhere".
I still have the knife-blade btw :wink:
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papounet
Jul 4, 2005, 11:04 PM
Post #95 of 138
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Registered: May 28, 2003
Posts: 471
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Just came back from a trip to Chamonix granite.
Went offroute twice on the 5th pitch of "L'arete du Genepi" (Alpine D rating).
First time I downclimbed, second time I tried to establish a direct course toward the belay (I had not seen the piton 5m to the right). Instead of a 5.9 traverse move, was probably attempting a 5.10c dulfer move. I was not so confident so I placed a #1 friend and a micro nut 1 m higher.
Well, both the belayer and I could see the fall coming, I almost completed the move but peeled. The weight of the backpack (with heavy leather boots, ice axe, crampons,etc) flipped me over and I hit the rock with my helmet. probably 12 to 15 feet
I beleive it was one of the smallest DMM peenut which held me. The last climber could not remove it.
It is my only fall on gear while leading. And I plan on keeping it that way ;-)
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ldsclimber
Aug 25, 2005, 3:53 PM
Post #96 of 138
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Registered: Dec 27, 2002
Posts: 90
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I've whipped on a BD .4, .5,#1, green,Yellow, Red Alien, a Blue WC zero. They were all bomber I did pull a purple motolius TCU and a #1 BD but those were do to bad placement that I knew where bad.I had sopme splitters but gave them away cause they wold rotate way to easy and thats just scarey.
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tgreene
Aug 25, 2005, 4:01 PM
Post #97 of 138
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Registered: Oct 22, 2003
Posts: 7267
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The slab rocks at the bottom of a gorge! :shock:
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sactownclimber
Aug 25, 2005, 4:32 PM
Post #98 of 138
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Registered: Jan 2, 2005
Posts: 216
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My first fall (and only, so far . . . ) on gear was about a five-footer on a red alien. It was over before I knew it . . . I had placed it semi-blindly from around a corner, and fell trying to turn the corner. When I climbed back up to it, only three lobes were touching . . . not what you like to see . . .
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ontherocks
Aug 25, 2005, 4:55 PM
Post #99 of 138
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Registered: Sep 3, 2001
Posts: 155
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So far all my pieces held when I fell. Longer fall on a small BD #6 Stopper, around 15-20 feet after a hand hold broke. Rest of the falls were on also nuts or BD cams (medium to large).
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glyrocks
Aug 25, 2005, 5:11 PM
Post #100 of 138
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 614
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In reply to: In reply to: = Had an Alien break, then a nut pop before another nut kept me from rolling off the ledge I face planted on, with no injuries strangely enough. Care to share why you think you broke this alien?
Not really sure. It wasn't mine so I didn't get to keep it around but I remember the wire on a lobe pulling out. I don't know why it happened then, must have been the first time it had seen significant weight because it was a pretty shallow placement that wasn't going to take much to pull. Obviously the nut placement sucked too. Obviously I sucked. There was a long thread of people overreacting about another broken alien a few months back.
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