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northfacejmb
Aug 23, 2010, 5:35 AM
Post #126 of 138
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Registered: Nov 2, 2006
Posts: 234
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~15ft onto this
It was a blind placement that I couldn't see until I was at the crux above it. From the crux I looked down and saw how horrible it was, but i was stuck and couldn't free a hand to do anything. Long story short, I slipped while trying to decided if I should try to down climb or just go for it.
You can't really see from the photo, but the middle lobe was barely on a little nubin, and just a hair in either direction and the cam would have ballooned.
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bigfatrock
Aug 23, 2010, 4:02 PM
Post #127 of 138
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Registered: Aug 2, 2006
Posts: 1321
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20+ ft fall onto a yellow Metolius Master cam. Scared that crap out of me because I wasn't even happy with the placement.
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papadigity
Aug 25, 2010, 12:49 AM
Post #129 of 138
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Registered: Jun 18, 2006
Posts: 2
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Zag NRG. .3 BD cam
28ft
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cantbuymefriends
Aug 26, 2010, 11:33 AM
Post #130 of 138
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Registered: Aug 28, 2003
Posts: 670
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I was on a 5.9 that turned into an .11b when I took a wrong turn due to printer error in the topo ...
An HB Offset #8 ~20 ft off the deck caught me with my feet just shy of touching the ground. (Inverted a poorly placed Red Alien higher up.)
Greased off a wet hold onto a 2.5 Friend in a bottleneck on a ropesolo lead, but that was more a "Hang" or "Take" than a fall.
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chrisJoosse
Aug 30, 2010, 3:16 AM
Post #131 of 138
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Registered: Jun 16, 2009
Posts: 150
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My latest two falls (on the same piece, working the same crux) were caught courtesy of my red #1 C3 from about 6 feet above.
The piece held great, but I tweaked my ankle on fall #2. My partner finished the pitch.
To date, I've never had a piece pull... which, of course, tells you I'm a noob. 
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chadnsc
Aug 30, 2010, 6:29 PM
Post #132 of 138
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Registered: Nov 24, 2003
Posts: 4449
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I haven't taken many falls but here is the list so far.
1, #3.5 BD Cam (12 foot fall)
2. Pink Tricam (20 foot fall)
3. #4 BD Stopper (10 foot fall)
4. #1.5 Technical Friend (25 foot fall)
5. Ye old yet solid pin (15 foot fall)
The falls haven't caused me to buy any redundant gear, although the climbs I tend to lead like the #3.5 BD Cams, and multiple 1.0 to 2.0 Technical Friends so I have double and quadruple of those sizes.
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alpinismo_flujo
Aug 30, 2010, 9:01 PM
Post #133 of 138
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Registered: Jan 14, 2006
Posts: 603
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Great OP!..I'd say my favorite piece that has caught my fall = my wife.  Last time was at Black and Tan Wall Sourthern UT..drug her as s across some rocks, dirt and scrub. Of course she yelled that I better start anchoring her in..
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patmay81
Aug 31, 2010, 12:10 AM
Post #134 of 138
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Registered: Aug 3, 2006
Posts: 1081
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Most memorable was not a huge fall, maybe 15'+. But I was less than 20' off the ground. I had a gold link cam in a nasty outward flare, only two lobes cammed evenly, the other two were tipped out. I placed a tcu above the flare as soon as I could. about 5' above the tcu I peeled, the tcu blew (who knows why) and the link cam held.
There are very few times my heart beat as hard as when I realized I stopped less than a foot from a ground fall, with a piece that shouldn't have held its own weight keeping me up.
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rangerrob
Sep 2, 2010, 4:50 PM
Post #135 of 138
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Registered: Apr 8, 2003
Posts: 641
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Fell off the top of the crux of P2 of feast of fools in the Gunks onto a #3 Stopper. Fall was around 17 or 18 feet. That was the smallest piece I have ever fallen on.
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killingmorethancancer
Sep 2, 2010, 5:52 PM
Post #136 of 138
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Registered: Jan 24, 2010
Posts: 61
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White sling TRI-CAM. Ran out 15 feet thru a roof on it, popped at the crux and enjoyed the 30 foot ride Via gravity. Hail TRI-CAMS! |
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acorneau
Sep 2, 2010, 6:45 PM
Post #137 of 138
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Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889
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killingmorethancancer wrote: White sling TRI-CAM. Ran out 15 feet thru a roof on it, popped at the crux and enjoyed the 30 foot ride Via gravity. Hail TRI-CAMS! Dude! That little sucker is only rated to 3kN! Glad you had a good "flight".
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suprasoup
Sep 3, 2010, 8:14 AM
Post #138 of 138
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Registered: Mar 7, 2005
Posts: 309
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acorneau wrote: killingmorethancancer wrote: White sling TRI-CAM. Ran out 15 feet thru a roof on it, popped at the crux and enjoyed the 30 foot ride Via gravity. Hail TRI-CAMS! Dude! That little sucker is only rated to 3kN! Glad you had a good "flight". Never underestimate the holding power of a well placed Tricam! Maybe CAMP rates them conservatively but I swear I've had tricams hold when they should have failed.  Not a white tricam but that little bad boy held a good 20 footer. While out in the Dias I was pulling the crux of a climb, which happened to be a small roof. As is typical of the quality of Sandias rock instead of pulling the move I pulled the whole roof off the route. Suffice it to say I fell. I was caught by a #4 BD nut slung with a screamer. The Screamer activated and GODDAMN if I didn't shit myself from the noise alone! Not the exact placement but remarkably similiar 
(This post was edited by suprasoup on Sep 3, 2010, 10:16 AM)
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