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adnix
Jun 28, 2005, 2:15 PM
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Lets have a little poll. How solid would you consider this anchor?
http://www.students.tut.fi/...ics/solid_anchor.jpg
Some comments:
1. The bolt is glue-in Fixe ring that has a rating of 30kN.
2. The four quickdraws were used as extension since I used all slings on the route and the rope ran out.
3. The second is belayed with a Kong Gigi (red rope)
4. I'm clipped in with the fifth quickdraw.
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tradman
Jun 28, 2005, 2:20 PM
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AHAHAHAHAHAHAAAA!
:lol:
That's a beauty!
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killclimbz
Jun 28, 2005, 2:21 PM
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Let's put some bait on this hook and see what bites...
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j_ung
Jun 28, 2005, 2:21 PM
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Sweet. Is that the intended belay station?
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mistertyler
Jun 28, 2005, 2:21 PM
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Biner on biner is bad, mmm-kay?
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adnix
Jun 28, 2005, 2:25 PM
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In reply to: Sweet. Is that the intended belay station? |
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gunksgoer
Jun 28, 2005, 2:26 PM
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I would have equalized the bolt and the pine tree.
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landgolier
Jun 28, 2005, 2:28 PM
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Christ, is this a troll? You're anchoring off one bolt. You know this is dumb, I know this is dumb, the noobs reading "Climbing Anchors" under the covers with a flashlight know this is dumb. I don't care if it's a fixe titanium 2" uber-bolt that goes all the way through the damn mountain with a nut and a locking washer on the back. But assuming that the only possibility for anchoring here was that bolt, no other gear available whatsoever, you could have done a lot better. That draw is slack, so I'm assuming you're standing on something. You should be belaying off the harness and using the meatsack shock absorber system to keep as much shock load and weight off that bolt as possible. Also, why is one of the only lockers in the operation in the back of the gigi, and not even locked?
Again, I hope this is a troll
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bigjonnyc
Jun 28, 2005, 2:29 PM
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Considering the fact that you only give "I have doubts" and "I wouldn't use it" as poll responses, it appears to me that you already know the answer to your question.
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reno
Jun 28, 2005, 2:32 PM
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T -4, for lack of originality, obviousness, and sheer waste of bandwidth.
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adnix
Jun 28, 2005, 3:13 PM
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In reply to: T -4, for lack of originality, obviousness, and sheer waste of bandwidth.
If you have a look at Long's book, it's clear it doesn't match all criteria. But if you take a look at Cosley & Houston book (page 163), the anchor is not that bad.
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choueiri
Jun 28, 2005, 3:17 PM
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I always thought binar rubbing against binar was bad... also, I dont know about all those links in the chain, I guess the whole is as weak as its weakest link, which in this case, all links have the same strength.. apart from binar against biner, it looks alright... of course I would never do it. HA!
Tony
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adnix
Jun 28, 2005, 3:29 PM
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In reply to: I always thought binar rubbing against binar was bad... |
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wjca
Jun 28, 2005, 3:37 PM
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In reply to: I would have equalized the bolt and the pine tree.
I agree. If you clipped one of the draws on the pine tree (no need for a girth hitch, its small enough to just clip onto), then equalized, you'd have a bomber anchor. Pine tree = redundancy. Keep crankin' hard brother.
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shorty
Jun 28, 2005, 3:39 PM
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In reply to: I would have equalized the bolt and the pine tree.
:troll:
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trenchdigger
Jun 28, 2005, 4:06 PM
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In reply to: I always thought binar rubbing against binar was bad... also, I dont know about all those links in the chain, I guess the whole is as weak as its weakest link, which in this case, all links have the same strength.. apart from binar against biner, it looks alright... of course I would never do it. HA! Tony
Even as a troll thread, it never hurts to comment on a photo like this.
'Biner-'Biner is strong, but can accidentally unclip much more easily than connecting the pieces with webbing, cord, or runners.
I can't imagine why you would use 4 draws chained together to extend the anchor when you've got a rope already tied to your harness. Why not just clove yourself to a locker and clip that to the bolt? It's much simpler and has far fewer possible points of failure.
The tree looks useless as an additional point of protection. Was there no other available protection?
As mentioned earlier, belaying off the harness is a good idea when the anchor is sketchy as this one most definitely is. In many cases it would be possible to catch a fall without even weighting the "anchor".
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caughtinside
Jun 28, 2005, 4:21 PM
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Well if it is true that you had no runners and no rope left to make an anchor, I'd say you did ok.
However, if you had cams left, you might have considered connecting quickdraws with cam slings, to alleviate the fear of biners twisting on each other.
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shakylegs
Jun 28, 2005, 4:32 PM
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You should have continued climbing, or even downclimbed, to find a better spot.
However, if you really, absolutely, positively wanted to belay from this spot, you could have anchored yourself to the bolt, clove-hitching yourself to a locking 'biner. Belay your second off your harness, or off a 'biner attached to the anchor.
(And yes, I know this is a troll.)
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renohandjams
Jun 28, 2005, 4:49 PM
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I don't see anything else there besides the bolt and the pansy tree.
I trust my life to three points no matter what, UNLESS it is a BIG tree then that is fine.
I would invest in a much longer runner, and an alpine equalizer, or make your own equalizer. The picture limits our view, but I'm sure you could have found a place close by to throw a nut, or a small cam and then equalize the three.
OR, I would've gone somewhere else entirely and set up a Trad Belay Station with three cams.
-Kenny
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vegastradguy
Jun 28, 2005, 4:54 PM
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In reply to: I trust my life to three points no matter what, UNLESS it is a BIG tree then that is fine.
sometimes, though, you have to make due with what is there.
In reply to: but I'm sure you could have found a place close by to throw a nut, or a small cam and then equalize the three.
if that's an option, it would have been the best idea. a good option in this case would have been to clip the quickdraws together, but take the top biner out of the draw and clip them in sequence that way so that you do not have biner on biner contact.
this is a spooky anchor- certainly not one to belay directly off of. belay off your waist, clip to the bolt and the tree and pray.
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reg
Jun 28, 2005, 4:55 PM
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with out reading any other repleys and bein somewhat of a beginer this is not an "anchor" it is protection and not very good at that. to many points of failure to be good pro or included in an anchor and bad anchor cause no redundency.
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renohandjams
Jun 28, 2005, 5:35 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I trust my life to three points no matter what, UNLESS it is a BIG tree then that is fine. sometimes, though, you have to make due with what is there. In reply to: but I'm sure you could have found a place close by to throw a nut, or a small cam and then equalize the three.
True, I would have been pretty through though, climbed higher, gone to the side etc.. But if you are lowering off then sometimes you have to take some risk or you'll leave too much stuff, espeically on a Trad TR.
-Kenny
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TradRack.com SuperStore
Free Email Accounts, yourname@TradRack.com, only 100 to give
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wjca
Jun 28, 2005, 5:49 PM
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In reply to: with out reading any other repleys and bein somewhat of a beginer this is not an "anchor" it is protection and not very good at that. to many points of failure to be good pro or included in an anchor and bad anchor cause no redundency.
Solid bolt in good rock = good pro.
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shakylegs
Jun 28, 2005, 5:54 PM
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In reply to: But if you are lowering off then sometimes you have to take some risk or you'll leave too much stuff, espeically on a Trad TR.
What, exactly, is a Trad TR?
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