Most of the time he's spot on in his technical advice/admonishments.

... funny, I carry a couple of prusiks with me for this. Using a spectra or dyneema sling to make a prusik knot would be a pretty scary experience that I think you'd only try once.

Dirt, the point was that some slings are carried.

And in the unlikely scenario that you got to a spot where you HAD to have a sling, but only had quickdraws you could, I don't know, come up with something? It wouldn't be that hard.

Your same argument, "what if you need ___" could be extrapolated out to have people carrying 30 draws and 30 cams.

I am not saying it's stupid to carry all runners. I am saying it's pretty dumb to make a blanket statement that draws are no good for trad. Plenty of climbers have found useful applications for them, and sound reasons for those applications.

Ok, so make a mariner out of your prussik loop.

Or a kleimheist.

You MIGHT just need your prussik loops for other things, especially for the alpine clutch.

Besides all that. these are thing yo ucan't do with a QICK DRAW, or didn't they teach you teh difference between a quick draw and a prussik loop down under? I see all that standing up side down has affected your mind.

Puss in eye is no doubt the snot nosed dickless sibling of a scabby pox infested, sphylitic two dollar batton rouge whore 8^)

Personally, I like to look at the route I'll be doing. If it's straightforward, with little wandering or bulges, I'll take mostly quickdraws with a few slings. If it's wandery or unknown, I'll carry more slings and tripled draws.

Uh-huh. So you are a single pitch, guide book beta, see to the top kind of climber. Gotcha.

We bought quick draws when our kids started climbing because we figured sport climbing was a good way to introduce the kids to the rocks. Well, since we have them we usually carry a few for trad climbing too.

Also, after climbing a few meandering sport climbs, we now carry slings on bolted routes.

Crazy, isn't it?

Some climbers get so rapped up in believing that there are rules to the game.

What keeps you alive and safe is GOOD HABITS, not RULES.

The folks who say "never clip a draw to a nut" seem to fall in the category of people who believe that climbers need rules. The word "never" is an absolute. There are times to clip short sport draws to nuts. And there are many many times not to.

I have two suggestions for the folks out there who are having a hard time with this.
1- Calm down. Other people are allowed to do things differently than you do.
2- Consider buying a few 12" open slings, and rack them like draws. I carry six sport draws and four 12" open draws on most climbs. The 12" open draws do not contribute to "nut wiggle," because I use 24" or 48" slings when they are necessary.

I won't sit here and tell you that you have to do it that way, but I'll say that it works for me, or at least it has so far.

Uh-huh. So you are a single pitch, guide book beta, see to the top kind of climber. Gotcha.

errr before you go patting yourself on the back for knowing his situation, you should have noted that he lives in Queensland, home of Frog Buttress, it's very unlikely that he does only single pitch routes.

I would have thought that by looking at the route he means working out whether it's likely to be straight or wander. It doesn't take a genius to look at a prospective route to work this out, regardless of its height.

Aren't you the cluess wanker who has only climbed a few trad climbs? thanks for the tip, I'll be sure to keep in in mind, giving it all the consideration it deserves!!

Like Hell he is.

DMT

It's better to be honest AND polite than it is to be either alone.

where the hell did you get that gem from?

Aren't you the cluess wanker who has only climbed a few trad climbs? thanks for the tip, I'll be sure to keep in in mind, giving it all the consideration it deserves!!

Dirtbrain, You use all that Wide and gay gear you have on your rack or do you just post those shots so that we will think you are a wide crack hardman? :lol: Stuff looks pretty damn shiny to me :roll:

Quickdraws (of any sort) are just fine for lengthening a placement. Sometimes the placement needs to be lengthened more, so you use a runner..Duh! Sometimes, you don't need to lengthen it at all, and you just clip the rope into the biner on the piece.

Hi ,
clueless wanker here! Thanks a lot dirt . Last time I try to play on your team. "wanker"... thats none of your bussiness, "clueless"... I beg to differ! I may not have a lot of experience but I do understand the discussion. Jeezus you guys are a hard ass bunch. I was trying to agree with you! Mostly 'cause nobody else does. Never mind, your beating this one into the ground anyway.