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epic_ed
Aug 16, 2005, 1:51 PM
Post #26 of 35
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Ricardo! Good to hear from you, bro. You getting ready to go crank another route?
I do still rebelay with a long prussik when necessary and practical. I just don't make a habit out of it for the sole purpose of holding the weight of the rope. But if there's a sharp edge or flake, you betcha I'm going to rebelay with that long prussik. Definitely not a clove hitch, though.
It's a trade off, like everything else. You make decisions based upon what works best in each scenario, and go with what you think will protect you the best.
Ed
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berkov
Aug 16, 2005, 2:11 PM
Post #27 of 35
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Registered: Nov 15, 2003
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Tattoo if I understand you right the only reason you tie into each piece is so you can use the rope like a daisy stop it and go buy some from Yates I like their wall ladders too all not too expensive
check out the manual for the silent partner it has the basics you can find it on the wren web site
and the falcon book climb on has some good tips in it
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trenchdigger
Aug 16, 2005, 2:58 PM
Post #28 of 35
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Registered: Mar 9, 2003
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In reply to: if you actually READ my post you've noticed that i only do this for aid....so far i've ropesoloed only 3 trad lines... as for aid, if you're on a A1 or A2 and your gear is solid, no worries about s--- ripping out, and if you clove hitch to pro, it also acts like a daisy making you more efficient.....NOW, that's my understanding of tying off pro... i scrolled through 5 pages of your posts and since 90% if not more of those pages you complete posts are smiley faces, i have to ask about your credibility. :roll: don't say how to rope solo...i know that s---.....the topic is tying off pro....don't highjack and ramble off topic
A factor 2 fall is a factor 2 fall.
Period.
Most people have never even seen a factor 1 fall. And if you're climbing safely, you shouldn't.
You're climbing in a manner that makes every fall a factor 2 fall!
I strongly encourage you to heed the warnings here and think about how important your life is to you.
Asandh's credibility need not be questioned. He's probably been climbing longer than you've been alive. And at this rate, he'll be climbing long after your dead.
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texplorer
Aug 16, 2005, 4:49 PM
Post #29 of 35
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Registered: Oct 24, 2002
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Maybe Tatoo should clove into every piece. . . .
. . . and maybe the rangers in the valley will let you sleep in your car in the meadow.
My question is why in the hell are you aiding stuff where every placement is bomber? People aid to get up hard stuff.
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cfnubbler
Aug 16, 2005, 4:55 PM
Post #30 of 35
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Registered: Oct 31, 2003
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Quick, somebody call the Darwin awards....maybe there's a "stubborn pigheadedness as a contributing factor" category.
-Nubbler
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ricardol
Aug 16, 2005, 5:01 PM
Post #31 of 35
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
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In reply to: In reply to: 2 - Use a long prussik. You attach the prussik to the rope pull the slack out of the rope (this IS important) .. and attach the prussik to a piece. I usually only do this on cams. I've seen this a few times, and solo-aided using prussiks to rebelay, but no-one seems to quantify 'long'. I know from experience that 2M is NOT long enough (and I have the melted prussik cord to remind me : ) How long are the prussiks people use for this?
My rebelay prussiks are a 6' long piece of 5mm cord. tied into a loop. I have fallen on this setup, and the prussik did not engage while catching the fall.
you MUST take out all the slack out of the line.
1. attach prussik to lead line.
2. put lead line through carabiner on piece
3. put prussik cord through carabiner on piece
4. pull out slack no lead line leading up to the prussik. (you dont need it super tight - but you dont want slack).
the reason for taking out the slack, is to minimize the ammount of rope that will run through this piece when a fall is arrested. you want only rope stretch to run through the biner.
=====================
to answer someone else's question. -- yes you want the rebelay piece to be bi-directional if you are tying off (clove hitch) the piece --- thats why bolts are great. --
there is a good article on this on pete's index ...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?mode=viewtopic&topic=2062&forum=40&start=0
BTW -- pete's index is no longer accessible from his profile -- you have to search for it.
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epic_ed
Aug 16, 2005, 5:09 PM
Post #32 of 35
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In reply to: BTW -- pete's index is no longer accessible from his profile -- you have to search for it.
Assuming it's OK with Pete, I see if I can fix that. I'll give it a bump in the meantime. Good info in that index regardless of what you think of the guy or his "style" (on the rock or in writing).
Ed
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ricardol
Aug 16, 2005, 5:10 PM
Post #33 of 35
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1050
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In reply to: Ricardo! Good to hear from you, bro. You getting ready to go crank another route? I do still rebelay with a long prussik when necessary and practical. I just don't make a habit out of it for the sole purpose of holding the weight of the rope. But if there's a sharp edge or flake, you betcha I'm going to rebelay with that long prussik. Definitely not a clove hitch, though. It's a trade off, like everything else. You make decisions based upon what works best in each scenario, and go with what you think will protect you the best. Ed
.. cool .. i do the same .. if the pitch is full of bomber gear (bolt ladder) then i'll just clove hitch (faster to setup)..
.. if its a bunch of cams .. i'll prussik rebelay ..
.. if its alot of hard placements .. then i'll just suck it up .. and not rebelay. -- i guess rubber bands would help here.
ed.. if you check out my line of questions on supertopo you'll see what i have my sights on this season .. -- will be a fun fall season. -- I'm also teaming up with a partner to go for WFLT in a push in 2 weeks. (1st time to do a push ascent..) ..
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stymingersfink
Aug 19, 2005, 10:32 PM
Post #34 of 35
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
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note to self: three posts into this thread i've already decided to pass on any opportunities to climb with this person. If they placed nearly as much gear as they post, they would realize the foolishness of clove-hitching every piece of pro. True, there is a time and a place for such things, but these are very situational.
Daisy chains are inherently not safe when shock loaded, expecially factor 2 falls. They are a work positioning device, not a fall-arrestor device.
Should I even bother reading the rest of this thread?
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lambone
Aug 20, 2005, 5:07 PM
Post #35 of 35
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Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1399
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All I have to say about this foolish thread is that it's only going to take ONE fall for this guy to get schooled.
If you clove every peice, why even use a dynamic rope? You might as well just use a cheap static line, since by cloving the pieces you are turning your dynamic into a static.
this has got to be a troll...
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