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musicman1586
Nov 25, 2005, 5:52 AM
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Just wondering people's opinion on this, but for at least a while I'm only going to be belaying sport leading and top roping, so would I have a use for anything more then your basic ATC (atc, atc-xp, b-52, etc.)? Like would a reverso or any of the other devices out there just be more features then I have a use for right now? I don't have enough experience to know if I would find a use for an autoblocker or ascender etc. on a day-to-day basis. Granted the prices are close enough that it doesn't matter, but perhaps some of you might have a preference for what would fit my simple needs the best.
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hosh
Nov 25, 2005, 6:00 AM
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There's no reason to own anything more than a standard tube style belay device (like the ACT, Trango Pyrmid, ATC XP). But there's also no reason to not get a device like a reverso. Just so long as you learn how to use it (easy) and how NOT to use it. My vote is for the Reverso. Love mine. But honestly, any device should work for what you're talking about.
But, if you're going to be doing anything bigger in the future, it'd be nice to already have a more versitile belay device...
hosh.
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moose_droppings
Nov 25, 2005, 6:00 AM
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The ATC-XP ought to do you just fine.
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omegaprime
Nov 25, 2005, 6:44 AM
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I got an 8 first, which was a mistake. Do mostly sport, so tube is better. Then I got atc-xp, and have been using it since. I had a chance to use Reverso too, and it was quite easy to use. Now I'm thinking of getting a Reverso, since I'm started doing multipitch and the auto-lock feature would make it easier. Currently my atc-xp is not yet a year old.
To sum it up, as hosh said, there's no reason NOT to get a Reverso. The extra features will be there until you need it, but its simple enough for you to get by for whatever you're doing now. Do you forsee needing the extra feature later on?
Edit for spelling.
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jred
Nov 25, 2005, 6:50 AM
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Personally I am a big fan of the b52, It has all of the Reverso's functions and does not sharpen with wear.
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devonick
Nov 25, 2005, 7:24 AM
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i had a standard atc but then when i was thinking ooh i might start doing biggres tuff in the future and my atc was gettng sharp i decided it was worth the extra 5 bucks for a reverso but it all depends on what you will be doing in the future so i would put my vote in the reverso
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zenchef
Nov 25, 2005, 7:59 AM
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If you have belayed before, (that means more than three times) then go with the reverso. its versile and lightweight and cheaper. But, if you are completely new to the sport of climbing and know nothing about belaying, spend the extra dough and buy and autoblocker. It is a good crash course style of teaching a safe belay. Ive seen beginners use tube styles, and had the shockload of a fall throw them into the wall. Instinctively, they would put both hands out in front of them and drop the rope, resulting in a dropped climber. You dont necessarily have to go out and buy a Grigri. Trango makes one for half the price. Its up to you. Its your buddies life, so the extra 60 bucks is like cheap insurance. Plus, some of the autoblockers out there last forever. Hope i could be of some help
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squierbypetzl
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Nov 25, 2005, 8:15 AM
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The original ATC is the old steadfast standby. ATC-XP is a much improved version, 2 different friction modes. Reverso is an autoblocker and really light, but I personally havenīt used it much because I donīt like it.
I vote for the -XP.
Someone had mentioned something about an "ATC-XP Guide" version coming out in spring featuring auto-block, anyone know if itīs true?
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squierbypetzl
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Nov 25, 2005, 8:16 AM
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The original ATC is the old steadfast standby. ATC-XP is a much improved version, 2 different friction modes. Reverso is an autoblocker and really light, but I personally havenīt used it much because I donīt like it.
I vote for the -XP.
Someone had mentioned something about an "ATC-XP Guide" version coming out in spring featuring auto-block, anyone know if itīs true?
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devonick
Nov 25, 2005, 8:25 AM
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yup its true i think its called the atc-xp pro there is a thread on it here at rc.com
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squierbypetzl
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Nov 25, 2005, 8:38 AM
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Hey thanks!
Couldnīt find anything here on rc.com, but I found a french-canadian forum about it, mais comment je ne sais pas beacoup de francais, je ne peux lire pas (sp) what it says...
Prototype looks nice (featured rope looks a little skinny though)
http://www.escaladequebec.com/...5111614743_59343.jpg
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joeho
Nov 25, 2005, 7:22 PM
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get a reverso.
if you gots the monies and want to, get a gri gri, most gyms you go to will force you to use one. Get the red one... you climb better with it.
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musicman1586
Nov 25, 2005, 8:20 PM
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Yeah, I've been climbing for a few months now, and I used to do rescue training in boy scouts and venture crew, so belaying/rappelling wasn't new to me when I got to climbing (really I find it funny that I didn't get into climbing earlier). I was looking at the atc-xp because I'm a real light guy (130 lb. give or take) so almost everyone is a heavy climber to me, and I put up this post because the xp and reverso are like 4 bucks different in price. Thanks everyone for all of your inputs.
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stymingersfink
Nov 25, 2005, 10:51 PM
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In reply to: Just wondering people's opinion on this, but for at least a while I'm only going to be belaying sport leading and top roping, so would I have a use for anything more then your basic ATC (atc, atc-xp, b-52, etc.)?
I would say so. Thrice the price, but four times the usefulness. When you do find a use for an autoblock or ascender, this can do both. Belay sport, TR'ing, trad, aid, pretty much anything but ice. Non-manufacturer recommended uses included self-belay (w/ proper care and backups), allowing one to TR solo, or even roped solo leading.
In reply to: Like would a reverso or any of the other devices out there just be more features then I have a use for right now?
Well, if you have a skill in your toolbox, you are more likely to use it than a skill NOT in your toolbox, IYKWIM. That's not to say that you will use EVERY skill EVERY time, but you will have a wider range of options to solve the current problem with, whatever it may be.
In reply to: I don't have enough experience to know if I would find a use for an autoblocker or ascender etc. on a day-to-day basis. Granted the prices are close enough that it doesn't matter, but perhaps some of you might have a preference for what would fit my simple needs the best.
INCREASE your options, DECREASE your variables. Just keep using the tube device you do have, till you realize that you NEED other options. It will be inconvenient the day you NEED to have it but don't, but then you'll feel that much more secure in your expeience to know that it's money well spent.
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bobruef
Nov 25, 2005, 11:07 PM
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I have an atc-xp and a reverso, prefer the atc, it is smoother, catches better, raps better, just all around better.
I'll sell both, and get the atc-xp-guide when it comes out. I think that bugger will put the hurt on the reverso in a big way. Reverso/reversino users will appreciate the ability to cover more rope diameter options in one device.
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tradrenn
Nov 28, 2005, 3:49 AM
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In reply to: get a reverso.
I will second that.
In reply to: if you gots the monies and want to, get a gri gri, most gyms you go to will force you to use one. Get the red one... you climb better with it.
:D :D :D :D :D
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jeff8v7
Nov 28, 2005, 5:05 AM
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I've owned an ATC, a Reverso, and an ATC-XP. Personally, I don't like the Reverso because it just doesn't feed as well or rap as well for me. I know people who love it, however, so it's definitely personal preference. I love the ATC-XP, but I dropped mine in Clear Creek, CO a couple months ago. I'm temporarily using my old ATC until the ATC-XP-Guide comes out this spring. I want to check it out before buying another ATC-XP.
The ATC doesn't feed quite as nicely as the ATC-XP, but I still prefer it to the Reverso. Anyone want to buy a used Reverso? :-)
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kricir
Nov 28, 2005, 5:27 AM
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learn to tie a munter hitch, use the money you saved to buy beer.
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jimdavis
Nov 28, 2005, 8:42 AM
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I love my Reverso.
I have a Pyramid, B-52, ATC, GriGri, and the Reverso. I was thinking about picking up the XP Guide when it comes out...but I'll probably just get a newer Reverso when the time comes.
Can't comment on the new one, but the old one was perfect for 9.7-10.6mm ropes.
Cheers,
Jim
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singin_rocker
Nov 28, 2005, 12:01 PM
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In reply to: I got an 8 first, which was a mistake. Do mostly sport, so tube is better.
Could you explain why? I think it could help. I started using an 8 for sport climbing and still use an 8. I use a munter when belaying a second on multi-pitch. I haven't come up with a real need for anything else. That said, I've never used a tube device. I have used a gri-gri and can't come up with any good reasons why I would want to use one again.
I have to admit, I've seen the ATC XP and I like it. The ability to pull that thing back on the teeth while belaying my hang-dog partners is a plus. I'm going to look into it.
IMHO simple is a great way to go. It seems to me it would be very hard to set up an 8 incorrectly, but just wait... someone will prove me wrong.
Waylan
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granite_grrl
Nov 28, 2005, 12:26 PM
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Reverso's suck for sport climbing. Unless you're doing a bunch of multipitch, you'll be happier with an ATC, ATC-XP, Pyramid, etc.
Why do Reverso's suck so much for sport climbing???
Well, they suck because it is harder to whip out the required slack for clipping very fast. There also tends to be a lot more falling and hang dogging in sport climbing, and with the lesser fricton of a Reverso (I'm comparing to an XP) it sucks to have a hang dogging buddy.
So in conclusion.....some people love reversos....but sometimes they SUCK!!!!!! (at least in comparison to some devices you could be using for single pitch sport climbing)
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jimdavis
Nov 28, 2005, 8:29 PM
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In reply to: Reverso's suck for sport climbing. Unless you're doing a bunch of multipitch, you'll be happier with an ATC, ATC-XP, Pyramid, etc. Why do Reverso's suck so much for sport climbing??? Well, they suck because it is harder to whip out the required slack for clipping very fast. There also tends to be a lot more falling and hang dogging in sport climbing, and with the lesser fricton of a Reverso (I'm comparing to an XP) it sucks to have a hang dogging buddy. So in conclusion.....some people love reversos....but sometimes they SUCK!!!!!! (at least in comparison to some devices you could be using for single pitch sport climbing)
I've found it much easier to pay out slack quicky with my Reverso than a Pyramid. Pretty comperable to the ATC IMO. I haven't used the XP...don't really need to.
BTW, the new Reverso has a lot more friction than the old one, they redesigned that rounded silver bar from the old one to have something like tank-treads on it.
I don't really see why people use XP on most single ropes...it's not nescessary and it just wears the rope down more. If your projecting a route or something...I get it...but for nomal use?
To each their own,
Jim
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alpine_guru
Nov 28, 2005, 9:44 PM
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I own an ATC-XP, Reverso, and Gri-Gri. If you plan on sticking mostly with single pitch sport climbing and top roping go for for the XP. If you plan on going into multipitch trad, sport, or alpine then go for a reverso.
I do not believe the gri-gri to be a good device to start with. It provides a false sense of security and develops bad belaying habits. Later on when you are more experienced belaying with a standard tube device then get a gri-gri for sport climbing outings if you like.
Your weight will not really affect your ability to lock off the belay device for a heavier climber. Even a standard plate will lock off well with a moderate amount of force applied. I weigh in at about 155 and belay climbers weighing in at around 230 pretty easily. Just hook in to an anchor so you aren't yanked off your feet. Other wise you will do fine. Hope this helps you out.
Cheers
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granite_grrl
Nov 28, 2005, 10:13 PM
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In reply to: BTW, the new Reverso has a lot more friction than the old one, they redesigned that rounded silver bar from the old one to have something like tank-treads on it.
I was wondering about that....I do indeed have the older style Reverso. 'till I wear out my current one climbing multipitch I can't really justify getting a new one.
Everyone has personal preferences when it comes to devices....probably why many climbers who have been around for a while have a box full of them that they don't use :D
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