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mistajman
Dec 8, 2005, 9:08 PM
Post #26 of 35
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Registered: Apr 15, 2005
Posts: 136
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I have a set of bd stoppers, and they work really well. I also have some of the larger sizes of wc rocks, they are much larger than the largest bd stoppers and have come in handy a lot of times. I recommend buying the larger sizes of wc rocks no matter what set you end up with.
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brad84
Dec 8, 2005, 9:18 PM
Post #27 of 35
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Registered: Oct 18, 2004
Posts: 149
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simply for the sake of beating a dead horse:
i learned to lead on abc huevos (bd equiv). a few years later, after getting really comfortable w/ them and getting to know them really well as pro, i picked up a set of wallnuts. for the past three years i only climb w/ wallnuts.
go dmm.
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bobruef
Dec 8, 2005, 9:20 PM
Post #28 of 35
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Registered: Jul 22, 2005
Posts: 884
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climbing protection is like beer-
Some varieties are more popular, and more enjoyable than others, but they all will get the job done if used correctly.
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jimdavis
Dec 8, 2005, 9:24 PM
Post #30 of 35
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Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1935
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Metolius Curved Nuts are the way to go for coarse grain rock. I climb a lot on coarse grain granite and they'll go where no BD will.
There will always be times were a Stopper or a WC Rock might fit better, but the same is true for the Curved Nuts.
But, in these parts, I see a lot more Metolius placements then BD's.
All depends on where you climb, and what companies you wanna support.
Cheers,
Jim
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crackmd
Dec 8, 2005, 9:40 PM
Post #31 of 35
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Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 444
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I don't get too attatched to my stoppers and have no opinion on which models work best. This way if I ever need to bail off a route, I can start leaving wires without any thought or remorse. My collection is a hodgepodge of different models which I have attained over the years and they all work about the same.
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sixleggedinsect
Dec 17, 2005, 4:31 PM
Post #32 of 35
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Registered: Apr 14, 2004
Posts: 385
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i think its interesting that do many folks are reccomending DMM. the original poster said (s)he didnt like trangos, which i find place and set very similarly to the DMMs through most of the range. the DMMs look nicer, and have better tiny sizes, but other than that..
i use the trangos myself, and bought them as a cheaper alternative to DMM when i bought my original rack. i still like them a lot. in fact, i prefer them. i truly hate the BD/generic nuts for a variety of reasons, mostly because they dont place as securely in finicky placements, i find.
maybe folks wont agree that trango places similar to DMM, but if the poster is trying to avoid trango-style, maybe s(he) should check out the metolius. i really like how their small nuts place, and they are distinctly different than any of the aforementioned designs.
incidentally, because so many folks mentioned the offsets, the trangos have a strong taper to the sides that allows me to use them as a half-ass offset on occasion. try that with a BD.
anthony
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willthethrill
Dec 20, 2005, 6:37 AM
Post #33 of 35
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Registered: Sep 10, 2004
Posts: 28
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I only have 3 words. "Trinuts by Omega Pacific." End of argument :lol:
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jimdavis
Dec 21, 2005, 7:33 AM
Post #34 of 35
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Registered: May 1, 2003
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In reply to: I only have 3 words. "Trinuts by Omega Pacific." End of argument :lol:
That's 4 words....
Jim
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azrockclimber
Dec 21, 2005, 2:05 PM
Post #35 of 35
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Registered: Jan 28, 2005
Posts: 666
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In reply to: I have DMM and love them. my partners have BD and they love them. -JR
exactly,... I love BD cause I started with them, My buddy uses wallnuts cause he started with em.....just buy some freakin nuts and get to it. It really isn't that big of a deal. However, I won't lead anything that is difficult with anythind other than my BD's.
and get an ass cushion. I think we all can agree, now, that an ass cushion is just plain old common sense. !! :D
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