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hoofers_andy
Jun 14, 2006, 7:00 PM
Post #76 of 112
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In reply to: the marmot precip jacket: under $100 bucks, under 1lb, seams pretty damn stormproof thus far and stuffs into its own pocked which can also easily accomidate a hat and some light gloves. the ultimate little epic prevention packet.
the precip fucking sucks. mine wore out after a year. i dont just mean stopped being waterproof wore out, but wear holes in the seams, hood damn near falling off, thin spots everywhere. and this is just from light use, i didnt manage to rip or tear it. what a piece of crap. if i had bought it at rei, i would have taken it back there after about 3 months of use.
replaced with an ultralight shell by ground. oh i am so much happier and drier.
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double
Jun 14, 2006, 8:34 PM
Post #77 of 112
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Registered: May 29, 2003
Posts: 136
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Cool stuff:
-pink tricam...place on every pitch
-dmm 4cu's - cheap, almost as slick as metolius
-dmm wiregates
-north face west cliff - wear them to work, pub, approach, 5.8 slab
-OR waterproof compression sack...great for down bag
Nasty stuff:
-black diamond half dome...flimsy, always twists sideways
-marmot precip...delaminated big time, but it is an earlier model
-hyundai accent...damn automatic transmission shifts like it's retarded
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hoofers_andy
Jun 14, 2006, 9:55 PM
Post #78 of 112
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great stuff that i couldnt live without (at least on a climbing trip):
red alien- yeah, that one can get placed on every pitch, i dont care if you're climbing a limestone sport route
'keyless' locking bieners- (bieners without the little lip where the gate closes) makes getting a daisy chain or reverso into our out of the power point on a weighted anchor a breeze. nothing to catch on absolutely everything. thanks BD
red-chili shoes- absolutely the only shoes that have ever fit me right. the velcros are as comfortable as tennis shoes, edge well, and climb crack like there's no tommorrow
osprey exposure 50- pretty new model, didnt fit right when i got it. after some breaking in it is the most comfortable and tricked out pack i have ever put on. even though its only 50 liters i have fit EVERYTHING i needed for 3 days of climbing in it (bag, stove, cookset, food, rack, shoes, rope)
marmot pounder- yea, a sleeping bag that only weighs a pound. after spending over 3 weeks straight sleeping in the thing i am totally a fan. kept me warm through a cold snowy night, even got wet on a 40 F night and didnt lose a noticeable amount of warmth. absolutely perfect
stuff that sucks:
BD halfdome helmet- kept wearing mine for almost three years telling myself that it would be broken in and get comfortable 'during the next big trip.' ha. never happened
marmot precip- see above postings
guidebooks that aren't a supertopo...
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tonloc
Jun 14, 2006, 10:52 PM
Post #79 of 112
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Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 249
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nice cushy two or even three ply toilet paper...
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salamanizer
Jun 15, 2006, 6:07 AM
Post #80 of 112
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Registered: Jul 3, 2004
Posts: 879
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^^^
They have three ply?
I tried some TP with soothing aloe in it once.
It was like trying to wipe your a$$ with a plastic shower curtain.
Stuff that sucks
Link cams- useless in most situations.
Metolius cams bigger than #4
Hand Jammie's- just retarded.
Small chock bags
The guy who picks the color's of La Sportiva and Red Chili shoes.
Fixe hand drill- pain in the rump to change drill bits and the striker plate chip's easily.
Supertopo's- Wait before you burn me at the stake. I love the detailed drawings, descriptions and whole team behind these well thought out guides which serve as a benchmark for what all following guide books should aspire to. However, they lack nearly 80% (guesstimate) of routes at most given areas. For those of us who are to impatient to wait in line to climb or don't care for the popular trade routes, its back to the ol Falcon guides.
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sweetchuck
Jun 15, 2006, 12:42 PM
Post #81 of 112
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Registered: Aug 18, 2005
Posts: 151
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Stuff that I like:
SALOMON SHOES. I used to have a real problem with turning my ankle. It would happen all the time. I got Salomon shoes and they are so stable (for me at least) it was amazing! I felt like running through the field with the holes and hidden rocks! I am on my third pair and have a pair of their gore-tex boots too. Great stuff!
My old SCARPA GENERATORS, love em, love em, need to get them resoled.
OUTDOOR RESEARCH ADVANCED HYDROSEAL BAGS, just amazing! I never thought a stuff sack would actually keep your stuff dry. Ziploc bags and trash bags for me. I got an advanced hs bag and had some clothes in it, it sat in the back of the truck in the rain for hours and the clothes were dry! I had several on the AT, and they were still keeping MOST of the water out after 1,400 miles of hard use!
TRANGO SUPERFLY wiregates and lockers! Man are they light. It is nice to have some really light lockers to make you feel better.
PETZEL ZOOM HEADLAMP. I know, I know, it is old technology, and heavy, but with the big honkin' battery it lasts forever. You can hike in the dark with it and not feel like you are epicing. I keep it handy around the house so it is ready if the power goes out, or I have to go under the house, in the attic, to the shed in the dark. It has gotten a heap of use in the 10 years I have had it, and works good as new. I couldn't have gone through more than 2 bulbs!
KETTLE BRAND SALT AND FRESH GROUND PEPPER POTATO CHIPS! Dag nabit, this is the best chip I have ever had. I curse the day that I found these temptresses! I secretly buy some and hide them from my girlfriend so I can have them all. Does this indicate that I have some kind of problem? I can quit any time, I swear (crunch crunch).
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andrewj
Jun 22, 2006, 9:37 PM
Post #82 of 112
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Registered: Jun 6, 2005
Posts: 29
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In reply to: KETTLE BRAND SALT AND FRESH GROUND PEPPER POTATO CHIPS! Dag nabit, this is the best chip I have ever had. I curse the day that I found these temptresses! I secretly buy some and hide them from my girlfriend so I can have them all. Does this indicate that I have some kind of problem? I can quit any time, I swear (crunch crunch).
Here I was just sitting around surfing RC.com trying to ignore the beckonings of my half depleted bag of Kettle brand salt and fresh ground pepper potato chips and I just HAD to stumble upon THIS post... :shock:
These chips are so damn good it ought to be illegal (though I'm glad it's not) I don't think hiding them from your girlfriend is anything to be concerned about. In fact, I should start hiding mine from my wife, as she frequently does not reclose the bag, leading to some unfortunate staleness situations. :cry:
well, it's off to the fridge to find something with which to wash down some chips.
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kimgraves
Oct 6, 2006, 7:12 PM
Post #83 of 112
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Registered: Jan 13, 2003
Posts: 1186
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Hi Gang,
I'm going to resurrect this "oldie-but-goodie" thread with three new "stuff that I dig".
The Five Ten Guide Tennie. I got these on the advice of my orthopod as I'm coming back from injury. I've been having trouble with my ankles and knees and he advised me to get climbing shoes that didn't compress my feet. By compressing your feet you can put a lot of power in a very specific location. But at the same time you're more prone to injury because if you fall on the foot there is less give in the structures. Anyway, I'm "shocked and awed" by just what I can do in these. I can climb at or close to as hard in these shoes that don't compress my feet than I can in my normal climbing shoe. Maybe this says something about the level of my footwork - either good or bad, but the bottom line is that I may never go back to a standard climbing shoe.
Patagonia's R1 Hoody. You know when you find a piece of gear that is just perfect? This is one of those pieces of gear. Hyper technical, warm, breathable, stretchy but close fitting and with a wealth of detail: The hood is equivalent to a balaclava that you can pull up around your nose and mouth except that it's always with you and can't get lost in your pack or dropped; The zipper is offset so that it doesn't interfere with the zipper of your shell; It's long enough to sit on so it won't pull out of your pants; The sleeves are long with thumb loops. This keeps cold and snow away from your wrists where you loose a lot of heat.
The only problem is that it's very hard to find in sizes over small. Patagonia screwed up and made way too few of these for the demand. So if you score one lost on someones shelf, scarf it up.
The only thing I don't like about it is that it's black.
Andy Kirkpatrick also has a glowing review of the hoody on his website - PsychoVertical.com
Big Up's Pilgrimage DVD: Everybody knows this DVD, but I had a chance to see it the other day. Not your usual bouldering film. The story of Chris Sharma, Katie Brown, and Nat Gold's bouldering trip to Hampi, India to get away from the crazyiness of climbing comps and rediscover their motivation. Highly recommended.
Best, Kim
(This post was edited by kimgraves on Dec 31, 2006, 8:21 PM)
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brent_e
Oct 13, 2006, 4:43 AM
Post #84 of 112
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 5111
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nice looking jacket...but BLOODY expensive!
at least you're supporting a great company.
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iamthewallress
Oct 23, 2006, 6:53 PM
Post #85 of 112
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 2463
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Got reminded of another one of these over the weekend.
Stuff I dig:
The simple boot shaped nut tool w/ a bottle opener end that you hang off of your own carbainer.
Stuff that sucks:
Nut tools w/ and integrated biner. This seemed like a brilliant idea to me when I first saw these, but they move as one rigid body, getting caught on everything in sight.
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hosh
Oct 23, 2006, 7:38 PM
Post #86 of 112
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
Posts: 1662
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?
edit: Ohh, quick catch and recovery on the edit... I'll retract my "question"...
hosh.
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djbiggs
Oct 23, 2006, 8:54 PM
Post #87 of 112
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Registered: Nov 5, 2005
Posts: 22
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La sportiva tesstarossa... hmmm fits like a foot glove... I mean shoe, yet to see how long they last but once stretched powerful tool for your feet.
Best shoe for my foot shape
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sungam
Oct 23, 2006, 9:03 PM
Post #88 of 112
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
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. Dear gawd I used to write a load of shit.
(This post was edited by sungam on Feb 9, 2012, 2:20 PM)
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dps
Oct 24, 2006, 4:57 AM
Post #89 of 112
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Registered: Jul 24, 2005
Posts: 116
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good stuff:
Patagonia R1 Hoody - soft, warmth, breathable, and functional. thumb loops rock.
Petzl Nomics - so so nice
Montane pertex windshirt - superlight and durable, windproof yet breathable
Garmont Sticky Spins - fit my feet really well, fairly stiff and good rubber
Red Chili shoes - the only climbing shoes that fit me well
DMM carabiners - so light. so pretty.
Petzl Meteor III - very nice helmet, has resisted a few pretty big rocks with no damage so far
Cilogear packs - best climbing packs on the market
bad stuff:
BD carabiners - heavy and outdated
Montrail D7's - at first I loved these, but I've blown the stitching out the last two pairs well before their time was up
BD warranty dept - while running a climbing shop, these guys were the worst by far to deal with. I'd regularly get told that something I was looking at (say a broken screw) was impossible and that I must be wrong.
Metolius cams past TCU's (I think I've gotten the #5 size jammed up every time I've used it)
Mountain hardwear clothing - what the hell is up with the fit? Is it just me??
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lextalion
Oct 24, 2006, 6:12 AM
Post #90 of 112
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Registered: Apr 28, 2005
Posts: 216
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In reply to: Crackers said "Stove top espresso machines. Makes me human. Forget the plunger things, I'd rather have a demi tasse of strong good coffee or two and call it good. Plus they're hard to break and you might be able to use them as an anchor.
Hey there ain't anything more civilized than a poor man mocha or expresso 20 mile in for no where.
Any way, I love to blow people minds, when they camp near me out there and they're drink instant coffee and I go out of my way to offer them a real cup of java that has been pretty freshly ground turkish grind and frothed to perfection.
And yes I think it could work as a hex quite well.
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mcgivney_nh
Oct 24, 2006, 10:19 AM
Post #91 of 112
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Registered: May 28, 2005
Posts: 421
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good stuff:
10 Year Old Subaru Wagon
Sun Shower Check it out if you've never heard of it.
Evolv Shoes
-Sean.
edit: the link was not working a second ago, but i think its campmor's fault, so just search for it, you lazy bastards :lol:
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microbarn
Oct 24, 2006, 2:18 PM
Post #93 of 112
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Registered: May 12, 2004
Posts: 5920
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stuff I like:
petzel headlamps
BD active pro
ABC Huevos
helium biners
B52
stuff I hate:
BD headlamps
BD helmets
figure 8 rap/belay device
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redlegrangerone
Oct 24, 2006, 2:56 PM
Post #94 of 112
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Registered: Dec 21, 2005
Posts: 851
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Stuff I like:
#6 Camalot. When you need it, you need it.
MSR Shakerjet Stoves.
Stuff I do not like:
Evolve Shoes. They just do not work for me.
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macherry
Oct 24, 2006, 3:08 PM
Post #95 of 112
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Registered: Sep 10, 2003
Posts: 15848
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good stuff:
snowpeak stove, so small and great plastic little box for storage
mythos, can't bear to break in my other shoes, always grab the mythos
not so good stuff:
climbing magazine, i had a subscription cheap (9bucks for year) and lately even the photos are crap. don't get me going on the content. I expected more with new editors taking over.
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maxtrax
Oct 24, 2006, 8:54 PM
Post #96 of 112
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Registered: Jun 29, 2006
Posts: 38
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Stuff I dig:
WC tech friends and zeros
Link cams
OR Schoeller gloves
Smith sunglasses
Mammut phoenix doubles
MSR whisperlite internationale
DMM spectre and WC helium biners
Petzl nomics
Marmot pounder plus synthetic bag
BD atc-guide
BD #3 stopper and DMM purple, green and silver stoppers
Stuff that sucks:
Camp nano-wires
OP trinuts - i'm sure they have their place, i just haven't found it
OP d-ovals
Crampons without antibotts
My lack of a pack between 32L and 85L
Majority of non keylock biners
Daisy chains for free climbing
Necessary evil:
Koflach degres - if only i could keep my leathers from freezing at night
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sweetchuck
Nov 7, 2006, 8:57 PM
Post #97 of 112
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Registered: Aug 18, 2005
Posts: 151
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Good time for a bump. I have to vouch for the Marmot Precip jacket. I got one of the new models after my old jacket got stolen with a bunch of climbing gear. I needed a jacket cheap and quick (and light). It was fine I guess. Well, about a month ago I went backpacking with my girlfriend. It wound up being record breaking rain in VA. We couldn’t cross the stream to get back to the car (I got swept down a ways proving it). We had to bushwack through stickelbriar for a couple hours to get far enough upstream to cross. My hands were cut and bloodied by dern sticklebriar, but my cheap thin jacket was fine! I thought it would get shredded. Later in the safety of my bathroom I sat and counted 41 cuts on one hand! I am just amazed that that thing performed so well. I would have been in real trouble if it had gotten cut, heck I was in real trouble anyhow. My girlfriend was hypothermic. What a mess.
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brent_e
Nov 7, 2006, 9:11 PM
Post #98 of 112
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
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In reply to: Stuff I dig: Smith sunglasses
I'll second that. Smith shades are great. I'm using toasters and they have been excellent for 5 years. Just got another pair!
another think i love is http://www.steapandcheap.com
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kimgraves
Dec 26, 2006, 1:55 AM
Post #99 of 112
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Registered: Jan 13, 2003
Posts: 1186
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Now that everyone has received the goods, it's time to bump this thread up.
These are not Christmas goodies, but thing's I've had or been using lately.
LeatherMan Micra: Years ago when my Swiss Army pen knife gave up I looked around for a tool to carry with my keys. I found this little tool and never looked back. I use the knife and scissors daily. The miniature screwdriver I use once a week to tighten up my glasses. The rest of the tools I use every now an then. But it's very light and I *always have it.
RBH Vaprtherm socks: Keeping your feet warm - or at least safe - is always a challenge. Consisting mostly of bone and tenons, they have little muscle to generate heat. It's essential to keep your feet warm rather than trying to warm them up after they're cold. I first read about these funny socks in an Andy Kirkpatrick review who raved about them. They're a vapor barrier product, but in a three layer sandwich which avoids the slipping and sliding around found in normal VB socks. The vapor barrier works by stopping all evaporative heat loss. So I called them up and ordered up a pair. This is a mom/son team making "the next new thing." Nancy was VERY helpful over the phone. I sent her an outline of my foot and shortly there after the socks arrived. When I got them I couldn't believe it. First of all they look like a sack rather than a sock AND they are really thin. How could these keep be warm in subzero weather? I called Nancy and said 'sup. She insisted that they really work. Andy wrote back to say that even though they were thin the insulation didn't compress. So I tried them out a couple of weeks ago ice climbing in 30ish degree weather. We spend a lot of time belaying (standing around in crampons) and though it wasn't very cold the socks seemed to work well. I would think if you were moving around they would be fine in much colder weather. And the sack effect - ignore it. The seams are placed exactly where they won't cause a problem. They're comfortable to walk in.
John Long's new Climbing Anchors book:
No two ways about it, this is a must read. It puts the whole issue of "good enough" into perspective.
The Self-Coached Climber: The Guide to Movement Training Performance: Dan Hague and Douglas Hunter's book on technique is by far the best book on the subject. I read the book, went to the gym and sent a climb that had stymied me my simply analyzing where my center of gravity was at the crux. And unlike most climbing books, it's beautifully produced. (NB: John Long).
Secrets of Warmth by Hal Weiss: Cold? You don't need to be. It's all here.
Andy Kirkpatrick's website: If you don't know this UK hardman, check out his site. He updates regularly - there's always something to gasp, gape, or laugh at.
Mark Twight's Gym Jones: You ask who's Mark Twight? Check out his book Extreme Alpinism.
Oxo travel mug: The only travel mug I've found that you can turn upside down (while full) and it won't leak. AND it's comfortable to drink out of.
Black Diamond Fang: Okay you have to own a Viper to use these puppies. No biggie, right. I got a pair of these a couple of weeks ago to retrofit Matt's tools, and the whole world of leash-less climbing opened up to us. No longer "smash and grab" WI3 became an exercise in balance and A LOT of fun.
Finally, at least for this round (I got an E-lite and am close to buying double boots), the BEST and, dare I say, MOST IMPORTANT book I read this year is non-climbing related. It's Michael Pollan's The Omnivore's Dilemma. All of us spend a great deal of time and energy eating. It's hard to talk about this book objectively because it changed my life and the way I look at the world. As a result, Masha and I shop differently, we cook differently, we eat differently.
Oh, and Al Gore's movie An Inconvenient Truth is must viewing.
Happy New Year all.
Best, Kim
(This post was edited by kimgraves on Dec 31, 2006, 8:36 PM)
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okclimbermatt
Dec 26, 2006, 4:08 AM
Post #100 of 112
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Registered: Sep 12, 2004
Posts: 52
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Like:
Black Diamond and Metolius cams. Omega Pacific Link cams. Pink Tricam. Blue Water ropes. Patagonia Clothes. 5.10 Piton shoes.
Dislike:
Curved wired hexes (especially small ones). Big tricams. Shitty harnesses that don't have belay loops or gear loops. I also hate harnesses that have little 'quick release' leg loop clips. There should never be stupid plastic clips on a harness.
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