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nashvegas
Apr 19, 2007, 9:33 PM
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I am finally building a trad rack and would like some advice on cams.
EMS is having a sale this weekend and I am ready to buy some gear.
I will be climbing almost exclusively in Tennessee. Here are my choices:
Aliens
C3 Micros
C4 Camalots
Metolius Power Cams
I know that each of these works best in specific cracks and stone- so which would be the most versatile?
So I'd love to hear which of these would be good for learning and getting a feel for cams.
Thanks!
(This post was edited by nashvegas on Apr 19, 2007, 9:33 PM)
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caughtinside
Apr 19, 2007, 9:37 PM
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I hear wild country is pretty sweet.
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jgailor
Apr 19, 2007, 9:40 PM
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Aliens - work great on pin-scars/finger cracks (both horizontal and vertical). Lot of controversy right now because of a recall with defective manufacturing. Supposedly one of the best cams for the features that they address though.
C3's - Supposed to serve the same purpose as Aliens, most people don't like them as much. Mostly controversy free.
C4's - Standard cams. These are workhorses good on most anything
Metolius Power Cams - Similar to C4's, supposed to be better on sandstone and softer rock. Also have the rangefinders on the side which some people like, some people distrust.
As a point of reference I have a full rack of C4's (yes, even the 6... got it at a ridiculously reduced price at the Red Rock Rendezvous), and they are fine, dependable pieces. I'm starting to get a set of power cams, so I can't comment personally, but many people think well of them. I have 1/2 a set of aliens, and will be finishing the rest in the coming weeks. They look really sketchy, but feel bomber once you place them.
There is also hybrid aliens, which have 2 different sets of cam lobe sizes, for flaring pin scars/cracks. I have the black/blue, but haven't had occasion to use it.
If you don't have any stoppers, you should get a set of those first, 1 - 13. They are basic gear and you should be able to place them before worrying too much about cams. Not to put down cams, but because you should learn to crawl before you walk.
(This post was edited by jgailor on Apr 19, 2007, 9:42 PM)
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coastal_climber
Apr 19, 2007, 10:08 PM
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nashvegas wrote: I am finally building a trad rack and would like some advice on cams. EMS is having a sale this weekend and I am ready to buy some gear. I will be climbing almost exclusively in Tennessee. Here are my choices: Aliens C3 Micros C4 Camalots Metolius Power Cams I know that each of these works best in specific cracks and stone- so which would be the most versatile? So I'd love to hear which of these would be good for learning and getting a feel for cams. Thanks!
Get some WC Friends, they are awesome. 4CU's are the strongest, bu 3CU's don't walk as much.
>Cam
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shimanilami
Apr 19, 2007, 10:51 PM
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Troll.
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medicus
Apr 19, 2007, 10:55 PM
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If you sincerely need the advice, I second the "get a set of stoppers." From what others have told me, if you learn to set passive pro correctly, you will be that much more proficient when it comes to setting cams. My first trad lead was actually done purely on passive gear. The first part of my set up was multi directional, and it was a pretty bomber set up, so I was comfortable climbing the rest of the route with passive in place. I could easily free solo my first lead. I was basically just lugging gear up with me with the knowledge that if I fell, my placements probably weren't the best, but I did learn from that climb.
As far as cams go, I personally have .5-4 of C4's, and Green through Orange of aliens. I plan on eventually getting the power cams too. I've heard from several people that you should at least play around with the C3's outside before you buy a set of them. I actually used aliens prior to buying any of them, and I loved them enough that I knew I would be happy with a set of them. I think the C4's are probably a good all around cam. From my experiences, Aliens are great in the small/med sizes that they offer, I have limited experience with the larger sizes of Aliens though, as I have used C4's for those sizes. The C3's, from what I have heard to may be a little less versatile, but I don't have experience with them enough to verify that.
I'll reiterate this again though, don't be scared of passive pro. If you don't have any passive gear yet, I would at least shell out the $50-100 for a set of stoppers... you get 9-13 pieces for that price instead of 1-2 pieces also.
Good luck
Edit: to fix a botched up sentence.
(This post was edited by medicus on Apr 19, 2007, 10:58 PM)
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nashvegas
Apr 20, 2007, 12:53 AM
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Yep- I already have a full set of stoppers, a few hexs and basic nuts. But at 20% off, I can't pass up the chance to save on what will be a very expensive part of my rack! 
Several climbers here have suggested the aliens and the c4s.
Thanks for the input.
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medicus
Apr 20, 2007, 1:05 AM
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Okay good. Yeah, I did the same thing when I started buying my cams. Anytime there was a sale, I bought a cam or two. I just know some people that purely use cams, and have no idea how to place a nut or hex or anything besides a cam. Glad to know you have the basic passive stuff then. 
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cellardoor
Apr 20, 2007, 9:30 PM
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your ems has aliens??? lucky bastard
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moose_droppings
Apr 21, 2007, 4:26 AM
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Never owned an Alien, but I've used them a number of times and their bomber.
Haven't given the C3's a try yet, a little out of my price range right now, but they look sweet.
All my smaller cams are Met TCU's.
C4's are a good work horse on any rack IMO, though I carry more Trango Flex cams in the medium to large sizes.
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