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Bailing on a runnout
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stymingersfink


Jun 2, 2007, 6:43 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] Bailing on a runnout [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
foeslts16 wrote:
right on man.... you gotta be kidding me about the hexes thing though, hexes rule.

I'll have to take your word for it. I've placed 3 hexes in the last 5 years. Just out of curiousity's sake.
small wired hexes generally have a greater range of placement options for a single piece than a wired stopper, IME. three options for the hex, vs. two for the stopper.

think about it for a minute, you'll get it.

i prefer the metolius curved hexes for my rack.


deepplaymedia


Jun 2, 2007, 10:51 AM
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Re: [evanwish] Bailing on a runnout [In reply to]
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In reply to:
what do you do.... a route where a fall would be very dangerous and protection is sparce?

dont let go?


kixx


Jun 4, 2007, 11:05 PM
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Re: [deepplaymedia] Bailing on a runnout [In reply to]
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I am not a smoker but somebody posted here a while back that taking the time to smoke (tobacco or other leafy substance) may give you the opportunity to take stock of your situation and think for a minute about how the hell you're gonna get outta there as well as calm your nerves.

So, I tried it during an epic this spring and...

It worked. It even stopped my Elvis leg.

My modified BD hook helped a little too... this wouldn't work if you aren't hands free obviously. But one more tool for the tool box nonetheless.


rocknice2


Jun 5, 2007, 12:03 AM
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Re: [kixx] Bailing on a runnout [In reply to]
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kixx wrote:
I am not a smoker but somebody posted here a while back that taking the time to smoke (tobacco or other leafy substance) may give you the opportunity to take stock of your situation and think for a minute about how the hell you're gonna get outta there as well as calm your nerves.

So, I tried it during an epic this spring and...

It worked. It even stopped my Elvis leg.

My modified BD hook helped a little too... this wouldn't work if you aren't hands free obviously. But one more tool for the tool box nonetheless.

Let me get this straight you don't smoke but you carry (tobacco or other leafy substance) on lead?

In reply to:
My modified BD hook helped a little too... this wouldn't work if you aren't hands free obviously. But one more tool for the tool box nonetheless
Did you actually roll it right then and there?

edit 4 spelling


(This post was edited by rocknice2 on Jun 5, 2007, 12:05 AM)


deepplaymedia


Jun 5, 2007, 8:44 AM
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Re: [rocknice2] Bailing on a runnout [In reply to]
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haha yeh my mate does that... he's a bit of a crazy aid climber (read: very hardcore onsight solo FAs on dogface) and he'll be sitting on an absolutely shitty tiny homemade pecker in a clay-band and whip out his pre-packed pipe for a cone before he feels ready to highstep on it


kixx


Jun 6, 2007, 1:16 AM
Post #56 of 58 (1166 views)
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Re: [rocknice2] Bailing on a runnout [In reply to]
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I'm stretching the truth there a little bit, although that's not to say I haven't had leading partners stop to "think about this for a minute." translated to "have a smoke"

I just think it's funny... and adds to the comments earlier in this post that a leader always needs to be aware their surroundings and take the time to look around for solutions - no tunnel vision. It's good advice and has helped me on many an occasion. (even if I don't actually pull out the pipe)


rocknice2


Jun 6, 2007, 1:26 AM
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Re: [kixx] Bailing on a runnout [In reply to]
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Kixx you could have just said "I never inhaled"Wink


joeforte


Jun 6, 2007, 3:09 AM
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Re: [rocknice2] Bailing on a runnout [In reply to]
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Wow you guys are nutz, but I'm sure it works... Better kept for solo stuff if you ask me. Only your life in your hands.

Edited to add:

Actually, I KNOW it works, but for some reason I only fully trust myself when I'm straight. I've pulled off some stunts to argue the opposite though.....


(This post was edited by joeforte on Jun 6, 2007, 3:12 AM)

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