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aerili
Jun 12, 2007, 4:34 AM
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Okay, just for the record, I want to state that before I created this post, not only did I read all the women's climbing shoe gear reviews here, but I also did a search on this specific topic as well as a Google search...and I didn't come up with much information.
Currently I wear women's Mythos for crack, slab, and multi-pitch climbing. I like them quite a bit but have been thinking about getting another pair of trad shoes to supplement (ideally with a more supportive last).
I have very specific foot-fit issues: the shoe needs to fit a very narrow foot and I prefer a symmetrical shoe for trad (not totally necessary but a lot of the asymmetrical designs really hurt me). I would like a bit more support than what the Mythos offers but still flexible enough to foot jam w/out additional pain control. Good smearing qualities are also high on the list.
Shoes like the Miura and Siren are simply beyond painful for me. I was wondering if I should try a more beginner-esque shoe like the FiveTen Sapphire or the Prima Lace up? I've never tried these on and have no idea how they would feel on my feet (and I haven't seen them sold anywhere in the state I live), but I figure it's a start.
If any women out there have similar fit issues and wear a trad shoe that works, I'd appreciate it!!!! 
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carabiner96
Jun 12, 2007, 4:46 AM
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Look at the la sport focus. it's marketed as a beginners shoe, but I'll wear it over my mythos any day - fan fucking tastic. Fits my low volume foot well and is built very stiff and supportive.
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jsh
Jun 12, 2007, 5:03 AM
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I don't have similar feet or similar issues, but I can tell you that five.ten shoes (and mad rock) generally fit wider feet, while sportiva (and boreal) shoes fit narrower feet. I'm not sure where other makers fall out.
If you know you have a "sportiva foot" - keep looking within the sportiva line for your next shoe.
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iamthewallress
Jun 12, 2007, 5:59 AM
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If you want all day comfort get a stiffy, but don't expect a lot on thin stuff. If you want to be able to do well in thinner cracks and not loose your shoes in the wide cracks, stick w/ your mythos. They're hard to beat as all arounders.
(This post was edited by iamthewallress on Jun 12, 2007, 11:00 PM)
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granite_grrl
Jun 12, 2007, 1:17 PM
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I'm a big fan of my Saphires for multipitch. I think they're a little stiffer than the mythos, but they're still fairly sensitive (which I prefer actually).
I also got a pair of ladies Katanas while I've been loving. At first I thought I got them too big, but they seem to be doing well with both trad and sport. But I wouldn't want to wear them for more then a pitch or two at a time, I find they have a really pointy toe.
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lvpyne
Jun 13, 2007, 12:13 AM
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I'll second the vote to stick with Mythos -- they really are hard to beat, especially for thin crack climbing. Another possibility for an all-around "more stiff than Mythos shoe" would be MadRock Phoenix (sort of targeted as beginner-esque).
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iamthewallress
Jun 13, 2007, 2:50 AM
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You can always put a stiffener in the Mythos to for extra support on long days. Some resolers will do this for you, or you can buy plastic insterts at REI. My bf got a custom orthotic for his when he was having some foot trouble.
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macherry
Jun 13, 2007, 3:39 AM
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love my mythos
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tigerlilly
Jun 13, 2007, 1:18 PM
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I have super-skinny feet and even skinnier heels, and asymetric shoes bring tears to my eyes. I feel your pain. I have a pair of Mythos and my older Mad Rock Phoenixes. Lately, for trad, I have been favoring the cheapo Phoenixes because the heels fit more snuggly, and they are stiffer, so they edge better and support better in cracks. Both shoes seem to smear equally well. Fwiw, I have the Mythos laced to where the two sides nearly touch over the center of my foot, even though they are plenty short, lengthwise. I have a little more adjustment room in the Phoenixes, regardless of what people say about Mad Rocks running wide. Maybe the other models do. One shoe I am tempted to try is the Mad Rock Banshee, which is supposed to be the women's version of the Phoenix - even narrower heels. Also, LaSportiva has a new shoe out, the Taka, which is straight, narrow and felt stiff when I tried them on in the store (maybe too stiff). One of those two models may be my next shoes. Right now, I'm tempted to sell the Mythos - they're comfy, but my old feet like more support.
Kathy
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aerili
Jun 13, 2007, 9:31 PM
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iamthewallress wrote: You can always put a stiffener in the Mythos to for extra support on long days. Some resolers will do this for you, or you can buy plastic insterts at REI. My bf got a custom orthotic for his when he was having some foot trouble.
I've thought about getting a stiffer midsole next time I resole. My intrinsic foot muscles are pretty strong from climbing in them for 3 years with no other support (that and I tend to climb A LOT of slab so I've learned to work through the burning for long periods of time). I do have some old foot injuries (and possibly a new one cropping up which some support would prob help alleviate), and my foot is also uber flexible compared to the average foot, so that is why I was thinking of trying another shoe out and using each as needed, depending on route style and performance required. If evolv made a women's trad shoe that was symmetrical, I would probably buy it, but they don't.  Exactly what kind of custom orthotic did your b-friend have made and by whom, a PT? I used to wear (sometimes still do) full length custom orthotics in my regular workout shoes, but they would not work inside a climbing shoe.
I don't think the MR Phoenixes are sold around where I live.... If I were to order, how should I size them? (Keep in mind I am not a fan of majorly tight shoes.)
Thanks all.
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tigerlilly
Jun 14, 2007, 7:17 PM
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aerili wrote: I don't think the MR Phoenixes are sold around where I live.... If I were to order, how should I size them? (Keep in mind I am not a fan of majorly tight shoes.) Thanks all.
I wear my street shoe size in the Phoenix, women's 9, AKA men's 7.5 (forgot the Euro size). They're pretty snug, but not painfully tight after 6-8 months of use. Early on, I was tempted to buy a pair a half size up and use the larger left one for my slightly larger left foot, but they eventually stretched to accomodate. So, if you really don't like tight shoes, you might go up a half size from your street shoe size. Hard to say absolutely, so mailorder is always a best guess. The leather is thicker than that of the Mythos, and they stretched just a wee bit less. The break-in period was also a little longer. I hope this rambling is helpful!
Kathy
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dalguard
Jun 14, 2007, 7:49 PM
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I have a La Sportiva foot but have found the FiveTen Ascents work great for me as an all day shoe. They're a nice combo of aggressive and comfy.
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lvpyne
Jun 14, 2007, 7:50 PM
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aerili wrote: I don't think the MR Phoenixes are sold around where I live.... If I were to order, how should I size them? (Keep in mind I am not a fan of majorly tight shoes.)
REI in Tempe and Paradise Valley have Phoenix in stock. Sort of a bizarre off-green, not their original bumble bee yellow, but you could at least try them on and see what size works for you.
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aerili
Jun 14, 2007, 8:49 PM
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Oh, wait--I meant I would need the women's version--the Banshee! Do you know if they have the one made for us?! I realized after posting earlier that if the Phoenix is a man's shoe, there is no way it will fit me... Most of the women's shoes out there are too wide for my foot, much less a style designed on a male last. 
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tigerlilly
Jun 14, 2007, 9:12 PM
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aerili wrote: Oh, wait--I meant I would need the women's version--the Banshee! Do you know if they have the one made for us?! I realized after posting earlier that if the Phoenix is a man's shoe, there is no way it will fit me... Most of the women's shoes out there are too wide for my foot, much less a style designed on a male last.
Actually, the Phoenix fits my 9AA's remarkably well. The Banshee not only has a supposedly narrower heel, but a higher arch, so beware if you have flatter feet. I do want to try on a pair of Banshees if I get a chance though. You could try asking Mad Rock if you should order street-shoe size in those.
I can hardly wait to try to find ice climbing boots to fit my pencil-shaped feet. 
Kathy
Edit: I have the old mustard-colored Phoenixes. Looks like they have been changed for '07. Dunno if they just changed the color, or more than that.
(This post was edited by tigerlilly on Jun 15, 2007, 1:13 PM)
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boo
Jun 18, 2007, 3:10 PM
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Scarpa's Lady Thunder might have what you want. Support, perforated/llined leather to minimize stretch, awesome rubber and rand all the way around the shoe making it a great in cracks. Nice smearing, too.
I have a very narrow foot with a low profile. I really like this shoe for an all around, day long, foot jamming shoe.
A real bargain, too.
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aerili
Jun 21, 2007, 8:04 PM
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Tried on the Phoenix in REI the other day. Yes, remarkably narrow shoe, considering it is made for men. However, heel doesn't fit right and I need a lower ankle profile to be comfortable. So I took the size I wore in the men's shoe, converted that to a woman's shoe size, and ordered the Banshee off backcountry today (also 30% off!). Hoping my method of fitment will work out and see how they feel.
Not sure if I want to order the Scarpa Thunders.... I ordered a pair of the Lady Eclipses (its precursor) last year after trying it on briefly a year prior in a store. They were the most remarkably narrow shoe in the rearfoot I have ever worn--never felt a shoe fit me so perfectly in the arch and heel. But alas, I found when I actually climbed in them that they were very uncomfortable, too asymmetrical, and beyond painful to jam in cracks! Also, I don't know if this was normal for Scarpa or a bad batch of rubber, but their friction seemed shit when climbing on any kind of rock. I was mega disappointed. Boo, do you think the new Thunders have been modified to fit differently, or are they an Eclipse re-released? Thanks for your input!
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boo
Jun 21, 2007, 9:08 PM
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The Thunder is an entirely different shoe. The rubber is brand spanking new (Vibram XS Grip) and personally, I like it a lot. I am sold on the lined, perforated body too. (I climb all day and my feet are sweatin'! I like that there is somewhere for it to go rather than my toes!)
The women's is in a white-gray color and the men's is in a yellow. Go for the lighter color. I see you are in Arizona-ie, mega sun. 
I'd at least try them. They are a high quality shoe at an entry level shoe price.
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gwendolyn
Jun 22, 2007, 12:11 AM
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In reply to: Currently I wear women's Mythos for crack, slab, and multi-pitch climbing.
I also don the La Sportiva Mythos shoes. I'm as much of a beginner as one can be and I've had no problems with them. Good grip, good fit. Let me know if you find something better.
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sherrilewis
Jun 24, 2007, 4:32 PM
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I bought a pair of Mythos and Katanas at the same time, so that I could alternate and compare them climb for climb, before deciding which pair was really for me(REI's liberal return policy is a godsend in this respect).
The Mythos felt solid and stiff enough to really jam them into the cracks without eliciting pain, and they were good on edging but seemed to lack a bit in the smearing department. I seemed to do more "skittering" on the slabs while wearing them than I did in my old Sirens.
The Katanas were super on smearing and toeing thin edges, but took a bit to adjust to their sensitity when camming them into cracks(a little repositioning was often necessary to quell the pain, but this could have had more to do with my sloppy technique at the time as I am not noticing such discomfort now.)
In the end, the functional sensitivity of the Katanas won me over and they've carried me merrily up many, many cracks. I wouldn't wear them on an all day multi, but for 2 or 3 pitches is ok, and also the cracks seem to be a little rough on the rands, which are delaminating after just a year, but when they go they'll be replaced with another pair of the Katanas.
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chouinard16
Jun 26, 2007, 9:20 PM
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I have the la sportiva mythos as well
I love them
they are purple and they love me too
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aerili
Jun 27, 2007, 10:05 PM
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Boo, I ordered the Mad Rock Banshees and Lady Scarpa Thunders to compare. I received them both yesterday. I sized the Thunders based on my Eclipses...but they don't fit the same at all.
To be honest, the shoe is a little wide for my foot, but it does seem comfortable. I think they are definitely TOO BIG, however, so I was wondering how much they stretch? (They appear to be natural leather.) This will help me reorder a better-fitting size, but I need to make sure they will stretch a bit so they also fit in the width.
Thanks girl!
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boo
Jun 27, 2007, 11:51 PM
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Yes, they are leather, but they are lined to minimize overstretching w/the perforated leather. I'm always really reluctant to tell folks to size down when they know they are going to jam their feet in cracks!
For me-I wear a 40 in a street shoe. I wear a 38 comfortably in this shoe. If I were shooting for precision, I'd go down to a 37.5. Super soft shoe. Hope you are able to find a fit.
Have a great weekend. And dag, try to find some shade in AZ?!
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mikitta
Jul 31, 2007, 6:11 AM
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You guys make me very greatful that I have a stupid wide foot. I haven't tried any shoes on lately, but the last women's shoe I tried on (years ago) was too narrow in the heel for me.
I'll have to test drive some of these newer shoes, however, to see if that is still the case. Ah well, I can always wear a men's shoe - they just barely make my size ... 4.5 :p (yes, my foot is as long as it is wide, it seems)
God Bless,
mik
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fernregan
Aug 5, 2007, 8:08 PM
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La Sportiva TRADMASTER
I have small narrow flat feet. Knowing that I wanted a comfy all day shoe I bought these a half size larger than norm. Due to the size, my heels fit sloppy and sometimes I feel like I can't tighten the laces enough. However, the performance is reliable in cracks, slab, or face and I they are always my first choice for long climbs.
Last spring REI had them on super blowout clearance and I got them for $35 so no complaints on the price.
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