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notch
Oct 5, 2007, 9:52 AM
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losbill wrote: Notch, what's up with the bolt clippin' ????? Has Jake converted you to the Dark Side?!?!?!?!
Nevernevernevernevernevernevernever!
You must of missed the discussion of my new crack climbing addiction! Todd (C4C) is coming over from NY and it's a nice central place to meet. Hoping to onsight Jolt, we'll see...
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epoch
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Oct 5, 2007, 11:14 AM
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notch wrote: losbill wrote: Notch, what's up with the bolt clippin' ????? Has Jake converted you to the Dark Side?!?!?!?! Nevernevernevernevernevernevernever! You must of missed the discussion of my new crack climbing addiction! Todd (C4C) is coming over from NY and it's a nice central place to meet. Hoping to onsight Jolt, we'll see...
Be gentle with 'im, I need him to finish a project with me.
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Gmburns2000
Oct 5, 2007, 1:25 PM
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losbill wrote: Greg --- I will be up N. Conway either Saturday and Sunday or Sunday and Monday. If you see two really old, beat-up farts with really old beat-up gear attempting to do laps at the North End or Barber Wall that will be us. Say hello and we can hook up for beers at the Moat. Bill
Sure thing, Bill. We'll be at the North End at some point since They Died Laughing is a goal.
I'm watching the weather, however, and we may change plans. Still, it looks like rain only at night both Sun and Sat and rain during the day on Sat at Rumney and during the day on Sun at the Gunks. NoCo may be our best option.
Greg
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blueeyedclimber
Oct 5, 2007, 1:51 PM
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Anyone going to the Gunks? I will be there with ao (Alison) and my cripple wife (wonderwoman). Poor Tiff will not be climbing this weekend. If anyone is there, we would love to meet for drinks after climbing on Saturday.
On a sidenote, has anyone here done Yellow Wall? I don't think I am ready for it yet, but I am thinking next year.
Josh
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Gmburns2000
Oct 5, 2007, 1:56 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: Anyone going to the Gunks? I will be there with ao (Alison) and my cripple wife (wonderwoman). Poor Tiff will not be climbing this weekend. If anyone is there, we would love to meet for drinks after climbing on Saturday. On a sidenote, has anyone here done Yellow Wall? I don't think I am ready for it yet, but I am thinking next year. Josh
Josh,
There's an outside possibility we could end up in the Gunks if the forecast becomes a problem at NoCo. We would stay at Slime if we do and would head toward Arrow and CCK at some point. I wouldn't know until later this afternoon, however.
BTW - I'm seeing rain Sun afternoon at the Gunks.
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ratherbe
Oct 5, 2007, 4:45 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: BTW - I'm seeing rain Sun afternoon at the Gunks.
Shush. There is no such thing as rain at the Gunks. I'm in denial.
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losbill
Oct 5, 2007, 9:24 PM
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Greg --- Ed and I are headed up Saturday PM, climbing Sunday and Monday. I will PM you my cell# in case you will be around Sunday night and we don't see you at the North End.
Notch --- I'm so confused! Rumney trad, cracks, huh?!?!?! My best to Todd, Al and Charley (aka Bill) likely hooking up with Bill for a climb or a beer on Sunday in NC. Any chance of one more road trip, Gunks!!!, this year or are you done?
VermontBrewer --- if you are lurking, what about you for the Gunks!!!!
Jen --- keep the faith!!! Remember that bizarre weather at the Gunks about 6 weekends ago. Rewards go to those with a positive attitude!!!!
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PatMcGinn
Oct 6, 2007, 3:45 PM
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If anybody is heading out to Den Rock this weekend, I might be going...
Pm me if you are, I'll ask my mom to drive me...
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robbovius
Oct 6, 2007, 7:02 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: Oh yeah, there's places in CT, too, of which I have not been to yet. There's also Pawtuckaway for bouldering in NH as well. Forgot about College Rock in Hopkinton, also, but that was probably more of a subconscious effort on my body's part to never remember that place.
snob.
I live 2.5 miles from College, 45 minutes out the mass pike from boston. many of the routes are hard. I climb there frequrently, as you may imagine.
I live a 15 minute bicycle ride from the Milford Boulders in Milford MA. MUCH quality, NO traffic.
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jakedatc
Oct 7, 2007, 12:10 AM
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i dont think he was being a snob on that one rob... seems as thought CR might have kicked his ass once too many and he's bitter ;)
Great day at the LW clean up. We built a set of rock stairs from upper warm up to the lower cave area.. should control the erosion of that path and hold up for a while. Also picked up a bunch of trash.. which always makes the place a bit nicer. Low attendance made for goooood raffle-age. skipped climbing due to 85 degree temps and went for a quick 15mi ride instead
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notch
Oct 7, 2007, 1:28 AM
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notch wrote: Hoping to onsight Jolt, we'll see...
Well that was anti-climactic, I could swear that was easier than Dolt. Tried Things As They Are for the first time in 2 years. Last time I'm not sure I made it to the 2nd bolt, this time I finished it with hangs at the second and third bolts. Awful footwork prevented the red point, but I think it will go next time.
Bill, the crack addiction had nothing to do with Rumney. It actually had to do with Gamesmanship up at Poke-O in the Daks. I just referenced it to let you know I hadn't sold my soul! No more roadies for me this year. Two more day trips to Camden planned, one of which should see a new route with Epoch get finished off. Outside of those, I don't foresee too many more days outdoors. Sigh.
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robbovius
Oct 8, 2007, 11:13 AM
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jakedatc wrote: i dont think he was being a snob on that one rob... seems as thought CR might have kicked his ass once too many and he's bitter ;)
oh okay, "sour grapes", then. ;-)
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epoch
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Oct 8, 2007, 11:41 AM
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notch wrote: notch wrote: Hoping to onsight Jolt, we'll see... Well that was anti-climactic, I could swear that was easier than Dolt. Tried Things As They Are for the first time in 2 years. Last time I'm not sure I made it to the 2nd bolt, this time I finished it with hangs at the second and third bolts. Awful footwork prevented the red point, but I think it will go next time. Bill, the crack addiction had nothing to do with Rumney. It actually had to do with Gamesmanship up at Poke-O in the Daks. I just referenced it to let you know I hadn't sold my soul! No more roadies for me this year. Two more day trips to Camden planned, one of which should see a new route with Epoch get finished off. Outside of those, I don't foresee too many more days outdoors. Sigh.
There's no big "E" in my name..... 
Hope all went well in scrummney. Things were great up in the Mid Coast yesterday.
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ratherbe
Oct 8, 2007, 12:37 PM
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With Gunks crowds galore, we said Farewell to Arms and visited Birdland, where I took flight. We escaped the Birdcage and showed a Yellow Belly to the fading daylight. And we traveled Shit Creek and got a Blistered Toe.
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losbill
Oct 8, 2007, 4:54 PM
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Great TR Jen!
Matt good job on Jolt! You must be climbing strong TATA certainly looks way pumpy.
Back early from NC. Got rained out. Did get to meet Greg and his partner Jedediah. Had some quality time together yesterday waiting for things to dry out.
Ed took me up Children's Crusade. Fantastic route!!! I took the 5.8 last pitch. Despite the 5 week layoff I showed nearly peak form by immediately getting off route!!! Resulted in a few dicey and "breathless" moves above my trusty yellow C3 (Thanks Matt!), but all ended well.
Once done, I was in a hurry to get over to the Slabs to have a rematch with P1 of Interloper. Meanwhile Ed was talking to some guy who had been climbing something way hard to our right while we were on CC. I didn't get involved in the conversation since I was eager to get going. Sorry I didn't do so. Turns out it was our own Ambler! Next time guy!
Gunks next weekend. If you are headed down let me know!
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wonderwoman
Oct 8, 2007, 6:46 PM
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Official date change for the Halloween (now and after-Halloween) party!
***Date Change***Hey all you guys - we have moved our halloween party this year to E. Boston, but all (sane) Boston / N. East climbers are invited! PM me your email address if you're interested in coming and I'll send you the evite. The date is Saturday, November 3, 8:00PM.
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Gmburns2000
Oct 9, 2007, 2:56 PM
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Yeah, the camping was fun (thanks for the good conversation Bill and Ed) and the climbing somewhat of a waste of a weekend (stupid rain and stupider people hogging escape routes in the rain with shouts like - "ARE YOU STILL CLIMBING?" over and over again while we sit at the bottom of a f*&*%%$#ing waterfall waiting for the next ledge to clear. MOVE PEOPLE...MOVE!!).
Ahem. But I digress.
Jeremiah and I did Funhouse, Black Lung, Upper Refuse, the Standard Route on Whitehorse, and the first two pitches of Inferno. We had to rap off the first ledge on Inferno because the guy we were climbing with was way late to an exam meeting he had that night. That, and, we were in the dark without headlamps. Fun. Fun. I'll get the blog up at some point this week. The boss is away, so maybe I'll get it done tomorrow.
Bill - Jeremiah is actually on RR.com. He is Jmeizis. You can PM him for his info. I think Ed was asking for it.
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c4c
Oct 10, 2007, 12:38 PM
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ambler wrote: losbill wrote: Meanwhile Ed was talking to some guy who had been climbing something way hard to our right while we were on CC. I didn't get involved in the conversation since I was eager to get going. Sorry I didn't do so. Turns out it was our own Ambler! Next time guy! Ed might not know he did this but as he was rapping past our belay stance he said something that became the catch-phrase of the weekend for Leslie and me. [IMAGE]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v224/Chiloe/October_2007/IMG_3639b.jpg[/IMAGE]
What? What did he say? Don't let that hang like that!
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shear
Oct 10, 2007, 7:41 PM
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went to the 'daks over the weekend. here are a few pics:
combining gear to make the uber rack for the spiders web:
Slim Pickins:
It's only Entertainment, all sewn up:
Dacker Cracker, the crack in the foreground is It's only Entertainment (the raddest crack I've climbed, amazing)
the spiders web is absolutely amazing. Wish i had time to climb more routes there. Drop Fly or Die looks spectacular, I can't wait to go back.
(This post was edited by shear on Oct 10, 2007, 8:31 PM)
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Gmburns2000
Oct 10, 2007, 7:47 PM
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Where in the 'Dacks was that?
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shear
Oct 10, 2007, 7:50 PM
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spiders web, keene valley
across from the beer walls.
heres the right side of the cliff from afar:
(This post was edited by shear on Oct 10, 2007, 7:52 PM)
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Gmburns2000
Oct 10, 2007, 7:55 PM
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Ah, Ok. There was talk from a friend of going in that area two weekends ago, but we went to Barkeater instead. Will have to take note of that wall. We had also thought of Washtub (did I get that right? I'm always confusing it with something similar) across from Beer Walls, but never got there. Thanks.
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shear
Oct 10, 2007, 8:04 PM
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I thin kyou mean washbowl?
and for pure hard cracks, spiders web is where you need to go. one 8, three 9's (which 2 are 10c IMO) and everything else is hard.
the dihedral pic is 9+, the diagonal crack pic is 11d/12a, just to give perspective. rock is bomber, nothing loose, protects excellently 80-100 foot routes, and all overhanging. it is badass.
this cliff has infected my brain, its all i can think about.
(This post was edited by shear on Oct 10, 2007, 8:05 PM)
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