|
|
|
|
rockwomyn
Oct 18, 2002, 3:45 PM
Post #26 of 42
(3518 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2001
Posts: 373
|
Do you have good knowlegde of correct gear placement??? If so and you are confident do it...the only thing is your belayer. belaying a leader is different than TR..however if your confident that your partner has his/her head in the game go for it, this would be my biggest concern. i did my first trad lead at the gunks and there are tons i mean tons of moderate routes there that take awesome gear. just use caution and keep your head. don't try anyting too far above your ability. in previous posts made some suggestions as what to bring and practice gear placement at ground level...take their advice. i personally like to be racked in excess...never know what you might need .... have fun and good luck, the gunks rock.
PLus, i am sure that one of the many friendly locals could point you in the right direction for your 1st lead and tell you what pro it takes.
***obviously you know you take your life and your belayer's life into your hands. if you are second guessing or unsure don't do it. just be careful and climb within your means or below. the gunks seem to carry a stiffer grade with a lot of pump so don't be too confident, i know your anxious but safety comes first!!!!***
[ This Message was edited by: rockwomyn on 2002-10-18 08:53 ]
|
|
|
|
|
gunkjunkie
Oct 18, 2002, 4:04 PM
Post #27 of 42
(3518 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 15, 2001
Posts: 153
|
Hi -
Given what you can TR (5.6 to 5.7) consistly I think that you should wait. Try going and setting up TR and do some mock leading - practice setting gear. If you do decide to lead you should stay at least 3 grades under what you can do clean on TR. If you haven't climbed in the Gunks at all you should take a couple of trips to set up TR's just to get used to the rock.
My husband basically taught himself how to lead - but he had been climbing on TR for about a year and was able to do 10's clean.
I'm not trying to be mean or anything - but leading must be taken seriously. I have gotten hurt and put my self in one situation where I could have gotten killed because I was pushing it.
Just my 2 cents worth
Deirdre
|
|
|
|
|
lobito
Oct 18, 2002, 4:26 PM
Post #28 of 42
(3518 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 22, 2002
Posts: 37
|
I think it's my mistake I haven't been very clear - I did build anchors on the ground and practice placing pro, only that everytime I chose a "good" spot/crack to do that. My concern is how do I know that when leading I find the "right" kind of crack to place a piece? Well, I guess that comes only with experience - to be able to choose the right piece/place in the first shot.
Anyway, thanks for the advice - and I promise I won't do anything stupid ...
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Oct 18, 2002, 4:57 PM
Post #29 of 42
(3518 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
Promise all you want, I can guaruntee you will do something stupid that you will regret, be it placing a stopper badly or not bringing enough runners. In your case (self taught), that is the only way to learn. It also drives your insurance rates up something awful.
|
|
|
|
|
tanner
Oct 18, 2002, 6:52 PM
Post #30 of 42
(3518 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2002
Posts: 491
|
you can lead in the gym or on sport right?
|
|
|
|
|
mike
Oct 18, 2002, 7:31 PM
Post #31 of 42
(3518 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 20, 2002
Posts: 1461
|
"Stop right there, see that fat seam? I want you get that 3 and 3.5 cam out and stick'em in there and equalize it. You got some run out after that, I want it bomber." Just a recollection from my second lead. The guy yelling that stuff knew what he was talking about. I fell on those cams too.
|
|
|
|
|
coldclimb
Oct 18, 2002, 7:46 PM
Post #32 of 42
(3518 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2002
Posts: 6909
|
Check my profile for the story of my first lead. I wouldn't advise going to the extremes I did, but just pick a route you can do, know your belayer can belay lead, and don't fall.
|
|
|
|
|
aarong
Oct 18, 2002, 7:52 PM
Post #33 of 42
(3518 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2002
Posts: 180
|
What the hell, just go for it.
I'm interested to find out how everything will go.
By the way, if you fall and die, have your belayer post something about it to let us know....we'll all be wondering.
[ This Message was edited by: aarong on 2002-10-18 12:54 ]
|
|
|
|
|
stoutclimb1
Oct 18, 2002, 8:20 PM
Post #34 of 42
(3518 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 1261
|
yup
|
|
|
|
|
tanner
Oct 19, 2002, 12:02 AM
Post #35 of 42
(3518 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2002
Posts: 491
|
Make sure you have a pink tricam!!
|
|
|
|
|
daggerx
Oct 19, 2002, 2:32 AM
Post #36 of 42
(3518 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 16, 2001
Posts: 761
|
Thats how i learned. It may not be the safest but it works.
DaggerX
|
|
|
|
|
petzl510
Oct 23, 2002, 7:20 PM
Post #37 of 42
(3518 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 8, 2002
Posts: 32
|
I kinda know what you are experiencing top roping kina sucks. If you have confidence then you should at least try and start on an easy route like 5.7 or 5.8.
|
|
|
|
|
outerborotrad
Oct 24, 2002, 1:40 AM
Post #38 of 42
(3518 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 24, 2002
Posts: 7
|
I'm with the folks who advise against it, or who at least advice reading more, practicing on the ground more, and going with an experienced partner. As one who is learning to lead in the Gunks myself, I can't say I'd recommend "teaching yourself" there. A word about Gunks ratings too: a) it's very easy to get off route and onto something with no pro, or that is well above your climbing ability; b) even the 5.3s and 5.4s have some exposed sections that can be unnerving for a new leader. Note also (I learned this the hard way, lots of blood and five stitches later) that easier climbs are easier because they have lots of ledges, which mean that if you fall, you won't fall into space, you'll fall onto a ledge. (Bad!)
And how's your downclimbing? Getting yourself out of a tricky situation is a necessary skill.
Online research should never replace live instruction, but do read the outstanding forums located at gunks.com, and maybe you can even find a more experienced partner on their partner board. Climbnyc.com also has a separate partner board. Don't give up on finding a more experienced partner! If you can afford it, hire a guide! (Though I can understand if you didn't want to -- they're not cheap.)
Happy and safe climbing. Leading is fun!
C
|
|
|
|
|
bwnco
Nov 4, 2002, 8:48 PM
Post #39 of 42
(3518 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 19, 2002
Posts: 59
|
I learned just the way your talking about learning. But I did clean alot of routes before I did it. Hate to use this term but most gear placement is common since. Just go do some short routes you have tr before, or some nice short easy stuff. You will learn quick that leading isnt even in the same book as toproping. It will make ya pee ur pants.....ha ha. Make sure ya know how to get off belay and use a pruski...My daughter is 11 and she will take my gear and stick it all over the place when we are resting, she learns what size fits what and what to use. Just go place some gear before ya go also...........
|
|
|
|
|
bigwallgumbie
Nov 4, 2002, 9:13 PM
Post #40 of 42
(3518 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 12, 2002
Posts: 86
|
Just remember:
If ya don't fall and don't get hit by lightning you can't get hurt!
Sort a, but anyways: go for it!
|
|
|
|
|
ride
Nov 4, 2002, 9:39 PM
Post #41 of 42
(3518 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 16, 2002
Posts: 216
|
That is how my first lead climb went, only the friend I took along had never even been climbing before, he just wanted to go. and my regular partner was a wuss I had only 1 'biner for each placement/bolt (it was a mixed bolted, trad route). I learned A LOT about rope-drag that day! I belayed my buddy with no anchor (I had nothing left) and when he fell he nearly pulled us both off the route, (he only had tennis shoes on too) it sucked, but I learned (almost the hard way).
*not spray, real story*
You need to MAKE SURE you are comfortable leading, esp. before leading trad. I would recommend that you try some easier sport leads first, just to get the hang of what needs to be done while climbing, cliping, at the top, anchors, belays, etc.
If you feel comfortable with your skills and with your seconds, then by all means try it, BUT USE YOUR FREAKING HEAD if you have to bail off, bail off. don't feel weak because you had to back off, we've all tryed routes we couldn't finish. If you have to leave some gear, oh well we've all had to do that too, ask a friend to retrieve it for you.
I would try to find yourself a easier sport bolted route to lead first, tho.
just my $.02
[ This Message was edited by: ride on 2002-11-04 13:40 ]
|
|
|
|
|
geoteck
Nov 4, 2002, 10:10 PM
Post #42 of 42
(3518 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 6, 2002
Posts: 145
|
Problem is, sometimes you can't find someone experienced to go with you. I however, am still going to wait until I can find someone. I would rather stay safe...
|
|
|
|
|
|
