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thewyseclimber
Jan 14, 2008, 4:47 PM
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It was dry, in fact. The creek was higher than I had seen it, and the ground was certainly muddy, but the rock was dry except for the large ledge down by Mosquito, and the mossy garbage on the bottom 10 feet of many of the climbs. I hope to get there again on another random warm weekend soon enough.
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mountainman
Jan 19, 2008, 4:55 AM
Post #1527 of 2156
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
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A New Ice Climbing Adventure
My friend Jeff from New York City called last week, saying he was changing jobs and had a few days to go ice climbing in the Daks. I got the OK to go, but had to watch the flying weather. The day before departure, the forecast was for clouds to 15,000 feet. As clouds in the winter generally mean icing (ie: death), this caused me some anxiety. However, by the morning of departure, the actual tops were but 6,000 feet, and I was good to go.
It was solid clouds below me until I was sixty miles from Lake Placid, when they mostly vanished. I enjoyed an easy 8,000 foot descent, and Jeff saw me land. I changed at the airport and was went directly to Pitchoff Right. The ice had taken a severe beating from the recent thaw, so we just toproped a line and ran a few laps on it.
The next morning we drove and hiked to the North Face of Mt. Pitchoff. There was relatively more ice here than anywhere else. We did the three pitches of Weeping Winds. Jeff did a great job, as it got thin in places, and he had trouble placing his ice screws. It took a lot of time, and it took us 7 hours, car to car.
Then, for the first time since freezing my foot 27 years ago, we winter camped. Well after dark we drove 30 miles out to the Roaring Brook trail, and hiked into some campsites. We wore our headlamps and had no trouble. The night was clear and beautiful. We set up his tent, and I pulled out the magnificent down sleeping bag I had bought ten years ago to go on an expedition and have never used.
I fell asleep quickly as snow pellets beat a rhythm on the tent. I was so warm in my zero degree rated bag, I had to take off nearly everything. It wasn’t so cold in the morning that it was a chore to break camp. We checked out Chapel Pond. Everything looked dreadful. Chounard’s Gully had huge bare spots and was filled with snow. Lions on the Beach looked fragile and dangerous.
We went to Cascade Pass, but every line was taken, and the wind was ferocious. Since a major storm was coming in that night, continuing through Saturday and the temps were going below zero, we decided it was time to go. Jeff helped me clean off my plane, I changed clothes and let ‘er rip.
I had 60 knots of head wind, and was only going 60 knots over the ground, a new low! But after I got south a bit I was getting 70, and after another hour, 80. Finally in southern New York, the clouds began breaking up, and I finally descended to 6,500, where I picked up another ten knots. However I started getting buffeted pretty thoroughly. So I went down to 4,500 and was going 115 knots. Sweet!
I flew the approach into Washington County for practice, and the whole trip ended up taking 4 hours and 25 minutes, not much over my usual time for the LKP-AFJ trip.
Anytime I fly somewhere to climb rock or ice, it is a great adventure. But this was special. It was the first time I climbed ice with Jeff. My first winter camping since 1980, The worst take off conditions ever, and the worst headwinds I’d ever flown in. Such an adventure!
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microbarn
Jan 19, 2008, 11:42 AM
Post #1528 of 2156
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Registered: May 12, 2004
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I envy your trips. Thanks for the TR again.
I haven't been winter camping in a long time (13 years?), but I really enjoyed it when I went. Sounds like a good time.
I hope the rest of you are getting out this weekend. With the temperature drop, I would bet at least one or two of the local flows are opening up.
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charley
Jan 19, 2008, 2:35 PM
Post #1529 of 2156
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Registered: Apr 13, 2002
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Great report mm.
I plan to stay in the house and watch tv on sunday. I don't ice climb and I need to be careful of my knee. I may get on the stationary bike.
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oz120
Jan 21, 2008, 6:45 PM
Post #1530 of 2156
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Registered: Mar 15, 2004
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well guys long time gone but im kinda back now attepting to get back into climbing but with the witer weather here and no money or partner for ice. i guess i will just have to stick with the pullups and pushup and be hopeful for next summer. maybe head to ohiopyle next summer for some whitewater work. well hows everyone been. sorry i been gone for so long if anyone would like to meet up pm. well later.
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thrill_seeker
Jan 22, 2008, 6:34 AM
Post #1531 of 2156
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Registered: Jul 9, 2005
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i live in connellsville and i am always looking for somebody to go climbing with. would like to find some people to climb with this summer. this is my emailthrill_seeker_24@yahoo.com so if anybody would like to get together this summer hit me up.
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hell8o
Jan 23, 2008, 7:10 PM
Post #1532 of 2156
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Registered: Aug 10, 2004
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I went to the bouldering area on Frewmill Rd. on Sunday. There was some snow on the ground and it was really really cold but the rock was sticky and dry.When the sun was out the rock wasn't cold and a sleeping bag between attempts made it bearable.
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microbarn
Jan 23, 2008, 7:17 PM
Post #1533 of 2156
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Registered: May 12, 2004
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hello all the new posters.
A sleeping bag between attempts? That is some dedication. I will stick with the gym for now.
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truello
Jan 23, 2008, 7:35 PM
Post #1534 of 2156
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Registered: Oct 1, 2006
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I've always wondered how difficult it'd be to enclose a boulder problem in tarps and bring some kind of space heater  . Not worth the effort though.
For now I will use the good 'ole fly somewhere with better weather. We got our money back (well, all but $95) from having to cancel the Joshua Tree trip in November due to a death in my girlfriends extended family. She's making it up to me by agreeing to go back for Valentine's Day.. 
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hell8o
Jan 24, 2008, 5:18 AM
Post #1535 of 2156
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Registered: Aug 10, 2004
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gym? gross! A necessary evil but gross just the same. I'd take a day in a sleeping bag with real rock over a plastic any day.... and if you think about it, it's about the same temp between attempts! AND the rock is soo sticky!
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CMTomasetti
Jan 24, 2008, 2:04 PM
Post #1536 of 2156
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Registered: Feb 26, 2007
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I like your thinking! Right on....
On a different note I NEED A DOCTOR!!! Does any one know a doctor, hand specialist in the Pittsburgh area? Last night I think I ruptured my A2 pulley and I want to get an opinion on what I actually did by a Doc.
So, long story short....Need a Doctor, climber friendly is a plus....please help
Pissed off at my self/this sucks
CMT
(This post was edited by CMTomasetti on Jan 24, 2008, 7:19 PM)
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truello
Jan 24, 2008, 3:41 PM
Post #1537 of 2156
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^ Another reason I dislike gyms.
I've been fortunate enough thus far to not need a doctor for anything climbing related (actually I haven't been to a doctor in probably 3 years outside of normal checkups). Thus I don't have an answer for you. Perhaps victor might.
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microbarn
Jan 24, 2008, 3:49 PM
Post #1538 of 2156
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CMTomasetti wrote: I like your thinking! Right on.... On a different note I NEED A DOCTOR!!! Does any one know a doctor, hand specialist in the Pittsburgh area? Last night I think I rutured my A2 pulley and I want to get an oppinion on what I actuall did by Doc. So, long story short....Need a Doctor, climber friendly is a plus....please help Pissed off at my self/this sucks CMT
I asked Drew since he saw someone before. Here is his response:
In reply to: The guy I saw Robert Kaufmann. He's an orthopaedic surgion and hand specialist. From what I understand, he one of only two hand specialists in UPMC. Although he's not a climber, he's very knowledgable about climbing injuries -- he was telling me all the injuries you can do to your hands climbing that you'll probably never get from any other activity, and then he went on to describe a pully repair he did recently. I also found that he listens well, and explains things clearly. I'd definitely recommend him. Robert Alexander Kaufmann, MD University of Pittsburgh Physicians Department of Orthopaedic Surgery Office Address(es): Kaufmann Medical Building 3471 Fifth Avenue, Suite 1010 Pittsburgh, PA 15213 Phone: 412-687-3900 |
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CMTomasetti
Jan 24, 2008, 4:07 PM
Post #1539 of 2156
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Registered: Feb 26, 2007
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Thanks! I appreciate the help!
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thrill_seeker
Jan 28, 2008, 4:07 PM
Post #1540 of 2156
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Registered: Jul 9, 2005
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My name is Brock i live in Connellsville and i am a beginner climber. But i have been climbing for awhile and i know the basics of climbing. Am looking to improve my skills this summer but i have nobody to climb with and help me out. So if anybody is willing to climb with me this summer i would appriciate it. I am going to post my cell# 724-562-8154. I am always available on weekends.
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dvs
Jan 30, 2008, 9:36 PM
Post #1541 of 2156
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Registered: Mar 4, 2005
Posts: 34
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Going to be almost 50 this weekend. New or Red, anyone?
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oz120
Jan 31, 2008, 1:01 AM
Post #1542 of 2156
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Registered: Mar 15, 2004
Posts: 53
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Hey I wold love to get some climbing in this week when its warm I'm from rockwood 8142799107 leave me a msg and we will def go I'm just starting out done a lot of bouldering but have never been on rope. So if anyone is willing to teach I'm willing to learn. I available everyday of the week in the mornings except for this tuesday. If anyone wants to get on the rock in the fiftys let me know.
Later
Jordan
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thewyseclimber
Jan 31, 2008, 2:40 AM
Post #1543 of 2156
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Registered: Mar 3, 2004
Posts: 179
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I will unfortunately be out of town this weekend, and not for climbing. Hopefully everyone else can get out while it's tolerably warm.
Does anybody know of some good reading material on the geology of western PA, possibly in particular the rock formations? I'm putting together a little class of sorts for some friends about climbing basics, and I think it would be interesting to include some relevant local geological musings.
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microbarn
Jan 31, 2008, 2:28 PM
Post #1544 of 2156
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Registered: May 12, 2004
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A group of us is going to raid the climbing wall tonight.
We will start showing up around 5 or so, and we will climb in spandex and 80's garb until probably around 7:30 or so. Then we will head to dinner at a location yet to be decided.
You guys should come join us. Bring friends and cameras, but be sure to dress appropriately yourselves.
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truello
Jan 31, 2008, 4:21 PM
Post #1545 of 2156
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The worst thing about long distance relationships is that instead of the weekends being freedom from your SO it becomes the only time you get to see them. Which means I'm committed to something other than climbing on what looks like a glorious weekend in the more southern states. 
Microbarn -- I probably would have joined you if I knew prior to this morning. I'd have to leave work 1.5 hours early and make it up tomorrow which isn't possible  Have fun... the more work affects my climb time the more glorious being a dirtbag looks.
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microbarn
Jan 31, 2008, 4:31 PM
Post #1546 of 2156
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darn,
I wasn't expecting anyone would actually join in on the 80's thing. So, I didn't think a warning was needed.
IF it ever happens again, I will be sure to post it up sooner.
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chronicle
Jan 31, 2008, 4:40 PM
Post #1547 of 2156
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Registered: Sep 26, 2003
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microbarn wrote: darn, I wasn't expecting anyone would actually join in on the 80's thing. So, I didn't think a warning was needed. IF it ever happens again, I will be sure to post it up sooner.
I would totally have been there, but I'm in the same boat as truello. If I had known yesterday I could have planned for it by coming in early today. As it stands, I would have to leave work early and try to make it up tomorrow (and I'm already making up time from earlier this week).
(This post was edited by chronicle on Jan 31, 2008, 4:42 PM)
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truello
Jan 31, 2008, 5:13 PM
Post #1548 of 2156
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Registered: Oct 1, 2006
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Make sure to post pictures.
Speaking of pictures... I once was told of a picture floating around of charley modeling a leopard print outfit. I wonder where that is? 
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dvs
Jan 31, 2008, 6:11 PM
Post #1549 of 2156
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Registered: Mar 4, 2005
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microbarn wrote: A group of us is going to raid the climbing wall tonight. We will start showing up around 5 or so, and we will climb in spandex and 80's garb until probably around 7:30 or so. Then we will head to dinner at a location yet to be decided. You guys should come join us. Bring friends and cameras, but be sure to dress appropriately yourselves.
Hmm. I have some other stuff, but will try to come before 7:30. Not sure.
On another note, my current SO is climbing - which makes it easier for me to, errrr, climb.....
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microbarn
Jan 31, 2008, 6:24 PM
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I am going to plan on another 80's night in the future. There is too much interest and too much fun to let this pass by.
Perhaps in the summer or fall...
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