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socalclimber


May 18, 2008, 5:54 PM
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Re: [reno] AMGA -- American Mountain Guide Association [In reply to]
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Thanks, that's good to know. I need to find out if they do there course in my area. I'm a tad out on CPR cert and with the new protocols I guess it's time to get it done. Cheaper is always fine with me.

Rajmit.... oh never mind, talking to you makes as much sense as a soup sandwich.

Thanks again Reno.


reno


May 18, 2008, 6:19 PM
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Re: [socalclimber] AMGA -- American Mountain Guide Association [In reply to]
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socalclimber wrote:
Thanks, that's good to know. I need to find out if they do there course in my area. I'm a tad out on CPR cert and with the new protocols I guess it's time to get it done. Cheaper is always fine with me.

Rajmit.... oh never mind, talking to you makes as much sense as a soup sandwich.

Thanks again Reno.

No worries, SoCal. Happy I could be of service.


ja1484


May 18, 2008, 6:22 PM
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Re: [socalclimber] AMGA -- American Mountain Guide Association [In reply to]
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socalclimber wrote:
Thanks, that's good to know. I need to find out if they do there course in my area. I'm a tad out on CPR cert and with the new protocols I guess it's time to get it done. Cheaper is always fine with me.

Rajmit.... oh never mind, talking to you makes as much sense as a soup sandwich.

Thanks again Reno.


Yeah, now's a good time, because the AHA just revamped all its recommendations for obstructed airway procedures (i.e. choking victim goes unconscious) and there are a couple other differences (it's 30/2 @ 5x/2 minutes now). I had to renew my AHA a couple months ago.

You might want to check and make sure AHSI has adopted the new standards.


(This post was edited by ja1484 on May 18, 2008, 11:04 PM)


pipsqueekspire


May 18, 2008, 8:25 PM
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Re: [ja1484] AMGA -- American Mountain Guide Association [In reply to]
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BACK TO THE POINT Sheesh! Go pump and blow somewhere else! (That's a CPR joke.)

Apparently no one here is involved in professional guiding politics. I'm not either but at least I have heard of PCIA. They are being more widely accepted as a certifying agency- including several national parks like JT http://pcia.us/pro/

Professional Climbing Instructors Association.

-pip


moose_droppings


May 18, 2008, 10:21 PM
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Re: [ja1484] AMGA -- American Mountain Guide Association [In reply to]
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ja1484 wrote:
socalclimber wrote:
Thanks, that's good to know. I need to find out if they do there course in my area. I'm a tad out on CPR cert and with the new protocols I guess it's time to get it done. Cheaper is always fine with me.

Rajmit.... oh never mind, talking to you makes as much sense as a soup sandwich.

Thanks again Reno.


Yeah, now's a good time, because the AHA just revamped all its recommendations for obstructed airway procedures (i.e. choking victim goes unconscious) and there are a couple other differences (it's 30/2 @ 5x/minute now). I had to renew my AHA a couple months ago.

You might want to check and make sure AHSI has adopted the new standards.

Every 2 minutes, and for the future there's talk of going all compressions and no breaths.


ja1484


May 18, 2008, 11:05 PM
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Re: [moose_droppings] AMGA -- American Mountain Guide Association [In reply to]
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moose_droppings wrote:
ja1484 wrote:
socalclimber wrote:
Thanks, that's good to know. I need to find out if they do there course in my area. I'm a tad out on CPR cert and with the new protocols I guess it's time to get it done. Cheaper is always fine with me.

Rajmit.... oh never mind, talking to you makes as much sense as a soup sandwich.

Thanks again Reno.


Yeah, now's a good time, because the AHA just revamped all its recommendations for obstructed airway procedures (i.e. choking victim goes unconscious) and there are a couple other differences (it's 30/2 @ 5x/minute now). I had to renew my AHA a couple months ago.

You might want to check and make sure AHSI has adopted the new standards.

Every 2 minutes, and for the future there's talk of going all compressions and no breaths.


My mistake. Didn't feel like pulling the sheet out to review.


onceahardman


May 19, 2008, 12:54 AM
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Re: [moose_droppings] AMGA -- American Mountain Guide Association [In reply to]
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Even though nobody asked...

Years ago, I got my guiding license in New York State. I was horrified by the process. I needed basic First Aid, CPR, and Basic Water Safety (?). Then, a written test.

NOBODY so much as watched me tie an overhand knot! No practical section whatsoever, just a multiple guess written test.

I don't know anymore, as time is limited, I'd rather climb and mentor than actually guide, but it would not surprise me, here in the People's Republic of New York, if a NYS license is still the only thing needed.


Partner j_ung


May 20, 2008, 6:43 PM
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Re: [onceahardman] AMGA -- American Mountain Guide Association [In reply to]
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Word on the street is that Pisgah National Forest (home to Looking Glass Rock, Cedar Rock and many other smaller crags) will begin requiring all guides and group instructors, be they assistants or leaders, to carry AMGA Single Pitch certification at a minimum -- beginning in 2009. To my knowledge this is the most stringent requirement to date in the US, and it will affect hundreds of people, since the above areas are virtually overrun with camp groups all summer long.


climbingaggie03


May 20, 2008, 6:47 PM
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Re: [j_ung] AMGA -- American Mountain Guide Association [In reply to]
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j_ung wrote:
Word on the street is that Pisgah National Forest (home to Looking Glass Rock, Cedar Rock and many other smaller crags) will begin requiring all guides and group instructors, be they assistants or leaders, to carry AMGA Single Pitch certification at a minimum -- beginning in 2009. To my knowledge this is the most stringent requirement to date in the US, and it will affect hundreds of people, since the above areas are virtually overrun with camp groups all summer long.

hmmm, that could be interesting. So does this mean everyone belaying would have to have an SPI? or just the leaders? I'd bet that the camps have probably 1 certified person now to set the anchors and manage the site, however if everybody who is holding a rope has to have an AMGA cert, the crowds probably won't be very bad in 2009.


redpoint73


May 20, 2008, 7:58 PM
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Re: [moose_droppings] AMGA -- American Mountain Guide Association [In reply to]
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moose_droppings wrote:
ja1484 wrote:
socalclimber wrote:
Thanks, that's good to know. I need to find out if they do there course in my area. I'm a tad out on CPR cert and with the new protocols I guess it's time to get it done. Cheaper is always fine with me.

Rajmit.... oh never mind, talking to you makes as much sense as a soup sandwich.

Thanks again Reno.


Yeah, now's a good time, because the AHA just revamped all its recommendations for obstructed airway procedures (i.e. choking victim goes unconscious) and there are a couple other differences (it's 30/2 @ 5x/minute now). I had to renew my AHA a couple months ago.

You might want to check and make sure AHSI has adopted the new standards.

Every 2 minutes, and for the future there's talk of going all compressions and no breaths.

Are you sure about that???

Updated 911 procedures for completely untrained people is compressions and no rescue breaths, b/c studies have shown that untrained bystanders responding to a victim cannot be properly explained over the phone by 911 operator on how to perform breaths. Plus, studies have also shown that a bystander is much more likely to administer CPR if breaths are not involved, b/c they are freaked out about putting their mouth on a stranger's mouth. "Its better than nothing" is the main driver behind this philosophy.

For trained personnel (including just the one-day CPR training), the procedure still includes rescue breaths. I haven't heard any talk about that changing. But I would be interested in hearing if you know differently.

The reason for this, is that a person with the one-day CPR training is fairly likely to administer breaths properly. Yes, there is oxygen in your bloodstream when you have a heart attack (the reason why compressions w. no breaths works) , but only about 10 minutes worth. After that, you would just be pumping de-oxygenated blood around the victims body (which is useless). Its every bit likely (even in the city) that emergency services will not respond in 10 minutes, so thats why they are still teaching rescue breaths.

I understand that breaking the rhythm of the compressions is another reason why rescue breaths turn out to be less effective than previously thought. I also know there is a high-profile medical doctor in Arizona that is a proponent of the "no-compression" philosophy, and has been changing the standard in Arizona.

But I still don't see a point in pumping blood around the victims body, when there is no oxygen in the blood anymore.

My AHA instructor stated there is lots of misinformation going around about "no compressions", thanks to the media. He said that one "AHA expert" that has been repeatedly quoted as being a proponent of "no compression" does not even work for the AHA anymore, and hasn't for years.


Partner j_ung


May 20, 2008, 8:18 PM
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Re: [redpoint73] AMGA -- American Mountain Guide Association [In reply to]
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redpoint73 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
ja1484 wrote:
socalclimber wrote:
Thanks, that's good to know. I need to find out if they do there course in my area. I'm a tad out on CPR cert and with the new protocols I guess it's time to get it done. Cheaper is always fine with me.

Rajmit.... oh never mind, talking to you makes as much sense as a soup sandwich.

Thanks again Reno.


Yeah, now's a good time, because the AHA just revamped all its recommendations for obstructed airway procedures (i.e. choking victim goes unconscious) and there are a couple other differences (it's 30/2 @ 5x/minute now). I had to renew my AHA a couple months ago.

You might want to check and make sure AHSI has adopted the new standards.

Every 2 minutes, and for the future there's talk of going all compressions and no breaths.

Are you sure about that???

Updated 911 procedures for completely untrained people is compressions and no rescue breaths, b/c studies have shown that untrained bystanders responding to a victim cannot be properly explained over the phone by 911 operator on how to perform breaths. Plus, studies have also shown that a bystander is much more likely to administer CPR if breaths are not involved, b/c they are freaked out about putting their mouth on a stranger's mouth. "Its better than nothing" is the main driver behind this philosophy.

For trained personnel (including just the one-day CPR training), the procedure still includes rescue breaths. I haven't heard any talk about that changing. But I would be interested in hearing if you know differently.

The reason for this, is that a person with the one-day CPR training is fairly likely to administer breaths properly. Yes, there is oxygen in your bloodstream when you have a heart attack (the reason why compressions w. no breaths works) , but only about 10 minutes worth. After that, you would just be pumping de-oxygenated blood around the victims body (which is useless). Its every bit likely (even in the city) that emergency services will not respond in 10 minutes, so thats why they are still teaching rescue breaths.

I understand that breaking the rhythm of the compressions is another reason why rescue breaths turn out to be less effective than previously thought. I also know there is a high-profile medical doctor in Arizona that is a proponent of the "no-compression" philosophy, and has been changing the standard in Arizona.

But I still don't see a point in pumping blood around the victims body, when there is no oxygen in the blood anymore.

My AHA instructor stated there is lots of misinformation going around about "no compressions", thanks to the media. He said that one "AHA expert" that has been repeatedly quoted as being a proponent of "no compression" does not even work for the AHA anymore, and hasn't for years.

Crossposted from another thread:

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/23884566/

It's official. The American Heart Association has changed CPR once again. Breaths are no longer required at all.

In reply to:
In a major change, the American Heart Association said Monday that hands-only CPR — rapid, deep presses on the victim’s chest until help arrives — works just as well as standard CPR for sudden cardiac arrest in adults.

But, there are still come situations for which they recommend traditional CPR:

In reply to:
This action should be taken only for adults who unexpectedly collapse, stop breathing and are unresponsive. The odds are that the person is having cardiac arrest — the heart suddenly stops — which can occur after a heart attack or be caused by other heart problems. In such a case, the victim still has ample air in the lungs and blood and compressions keep blood flowing to the brain, heart and other organs.

A child who collapses is more likely to primarily have breathing problems — and in that case, mouth-to-mouth breathing should be used. That also applies to adults who suffer lack of oxygen from a near-drowning, drug overdose, or carbon monoxide poisoning. In these cases, people need mouth-to-mouth to get air into their lungs and bloodstream.


shockabuku


May 20, 2008, 8:34 PM
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Re: [socalclimber] AMGA -- American Mountain Guide Association [In reply to]
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Hey, anyone have any idea how often 1) a guide would be in a position to administer CPR and 2) how often a response with a defibrilator would be in time to be of any real use?


pipsqueekspire


May 21, 2008, 5:06 AM
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Re: [shockabuku] AMGA -- American Mountain Guide Association [In reply to]
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Compressions pump blood- the amount of oxygen in your blood is sufficient to maintain basic metabolic processes of the brain for a while even without breathing. (Try holding your breath- Aha! Proof that it works.) The more acidic your blood becomes the better it is at releasing the reserves so you can strip your blood of oxygen better as you're working out (or holding your breath or just not breathing). Removing metabolic waste products is another part of circulation. All in all pumping only is better than nothing. Besides what is the oxygen content of a "rescue" breath- its close to venous blood content level since it was already used by the rescuer anyway.

Regarding the how often question people use CPR on a client- not often. Unless you are guiding AARP members who stop smoking just long enough to inject insulin after consuming a Grand Slam breakfast.

The only stories I have heard about CPR in the field have all been traumatic. CPR in this setting is nearly useless and de-fib is only indicated in a few abnormal rhythms like v-fib. SO - I wouldn't bother carrying an AED in my pack yet. I would bring a stethescope and a large bore needle first to drain that tension pneumo caused by the rib that pierced your lung. Or- I would just watch my clients like a hawk and try to avoid that fall in the first place.

Cool fact- Where is the best place in the USA to have a heart attack and survive? You would think it was in the ICU right after your gall bladder surgery and you just got lucky enough to code right in front of a nurse. WRONG! It's in a Vegas casino. They have the best rates of immediate de-fib and "saves" even better than if you are in the hospital. (Please ignore the fact that most people in hospitals are already sick with some organ damage and not likely to survive anyway- it makes for a way cooler story without the selection bias.)

Just a few thoughts

-pip


basilisk


May 21, 2008, 5:35 AM
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Re: [climbingaggie03] AMGA -- American Mountain Guide Association [In reply to]
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climbingaggie03 wrote:
My hospital accepted the CPR cert from my WMA WFR course. which is fantastic, cause it's the only CPR cert I know of that is good for 3 years.

Unless you've got something fancy going on, you might want to double check that. I got CPR with WFR, and they made an explicit point that although WFR is valid for three years, CPR is only good for two. And if CPR runs out, then WFR is no longer valid either.

Not saying you're wrong by any means, but it doesn't line up with my knowledge and it'd suck for you to have to retake WFR due to a misunderstanding.


guangzhou


May 22, 2008, 7:12 AM
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Re: [climbingaggie03] AMGA -- American Mountain Guide Association [In reply to]
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climbingaggie03 wrote:
j_ung wrote:
Word on the street is that Pisgah National Forest (home to Looking Glass Rock, Cedar Rock and many other smaller crags) will begin requiring all guides and group instructors, be they assistants or leaders, to carry AMGA Single Pitch certification at a minimum -- beginning in 2009. To my knowledge this is the most stringent requirement to date in the US, and it will affect hundreds of people, since the above areas are virtually overrun with camp groups all summer long.

hmmm, that could be interesting. So does this mean everyone belaying would have to have an SPI? or just the leaders? I'd bet that the camps have probably 1 certified person now to set the anchors and manage the site, however if everybody who is holding a rope has to have an AMGA cert, the crowds probably won't be very bad in 2009.

I am curious about this too. I don't guide in that area anymore, but when my service had permit, all we needed was a one million dollar liability insurance.

I have been a professional member of AMGA since the late 90's and they are always pushing for the industry to become more regulated, but America isn't there yet and I doubt it will be anytime soon.

AMGA certification is an excellent program, but like any certification program, it has it flaws. I won't get into them here.

One reason I don;t see guiding being more regulated any time soon is that plenty of big guide services aren't pushing for it. Actually, I can't think of a single guide service that is petitioning the Federal government too. I can't think of it at state level either.

One thing about guiding in the United States is that many of our crags are actually not on public land. Yes, the Federal government owns a few and so do the various state government, but many of our area are private land owner and organization. Private land owner s deal with guide services how they see fit. I know this from personal experience.

Guiding insurance, well I get asked when I pay my fees every year about my certification, but not being certified, I am not, doesn't prevent me from getting my Insurance. Cost me about 1400 a year to get my guide insurance. This will be the first year in ten that I won't be paying insurance for guiding.

Before any of you assume I am speaking of Asia, let me make this clear, my guiding, my insurance, and my permits were are all in the U.S.A. Asia guiding is even less regulated.

America is along way from having a mandatory guide certification. Part of me wishes the industry was more regulated, but part of me likes it the way it is. of course, I do believe in AMGA's mission and I will continue my professional membership for along time.

On a seprate note, in response to one post above. The guiding industry doesn't even know what going on within the guiding industry. America is a big country with a lot of small local guides and individual land owners all doing what they do. Most are very proficient, so aren't.

(This post was edited by guangzhou on May 22, 2008, 7:17 AM)

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