|
dr_feelgood
Jan 1, 2009, 3:31 PM
Post #1 of 34
(18941 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
|
So black diamond's orange screw roll up sucks on my left nut, even after I modified it. Any suggestions for a better screw carrier that can hold an entire rack of screws without being shitty?
|
|
|
|
|
anykineclimb
Jan 1, 2009, 10:13 PM
Post #2 of 34
(18895 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
|
I have two of the BDs but don't care for the buckle setup.
I like OR's (http://www.outdoorresearch.com/site/screw_wrap.html )but have never actually used it.
I think they're all pretty much the same though. I mean, how many ways can you store screws?
whats your biggest gripe with the BD?
|
|
|
|
|
dr_feelgood
Jan 1, 2009, 10:55 PM
Post #3 of 34
(18887 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
|
anykineclimb wrote: I have two of the BDs but don't care for the buckle setup. I like OR's ( http://www.outdoorresearch.com/site/screw_wrap.html )but have never actually used it. I think they're all pretty much the same though. I mean, how many ways can you store screws? whats your biggest gripe with the BD?
It's only meant to store 6 screws, and the handles stick out. The buckle sucks, and it doesn't seem to roll right.
|
|
|
|
|
gunkiemike
Jan 2, 2009, 1:02 AM
Post #4 of 34
(18854 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2266
|
How many screws in your rack? And do you want heavy, canvas-type material (makes for a bulkier bundle) or something lighter?
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Jan 2, 2009, 1:29 AM
Post #5 of 34
(18846 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
I carry 12 with a single orange roll. If you carry 6 they all fall out, if you carry 12 (2 per hole, each side plugged, orange caps overlapping) then it stays in pretty nicely.
I haven't found anything in ice climbing that packs right though. Screws, crampons, tools, thermos. They all suck to put in the bag.
|
|
|
|
|
reno
Jan 2, 2009, 1:45 AM
Post #6 of 34
(18842 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283
|
dr_feelgood wrote: anykineclimb wrote: whats your biggest gripe with the BD? It's only meant to store 6 screws, and the handles stick out. The buckle sucks, and it doesn't seem to roll right.
What kind of screws are you using? I don't have a screw roll, and just carry mine on a couple spare biners (three screws to a biner, and I use Grivel Helix screws.)
I suppose you could use a crampon bag, like this one. Put all your screws in there, laying flat, and toss the whole thing in the bottom of the pack.
|
|
|
|
|
dr_feelgood
Jan 2, 2009, 2:07 AM
Post #7 of 34
(18835 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
|
angry wrote: I carry 12 with a single orange roll. If you carry 6 they all fall out, if you carry 12 (2 per hole, each side plugged, orange caps overlapping) then it stays in pretty nicely. I haven't found anything in ice climbing that packs right though. Screws, crampons, tools, thermos. They all suck to put in the bag.
Yup. I'm rolling each slot with two, but they are a pain to put in and pull out. (that's what she said).
I might have to try the crampon pouch.
|
|
|
|
|
anykineclimb
Jan 2, 2009, 6:25 AM
Post #8 of 34
(18805 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
|
I guess I've just gotten used to using the rolls. I'll put them in the pack, flat, with the handles towards each other, if that makes any sense.
Like that = L7
great band BTW
|
|
|
|
|
vterinme
Jan 2, 2009, 12:10 PM
Post #9 of 34
(18781 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 3, 2007
Posts: 57
|
Those ice rolls or any manufactured holder for screws are pretty much gimmicks. I guess they'd be fine for cragging, but they're bulky and expensive. I've always just bought a bag or pouch with heavier weight nylon. They're lighter, more compressible, and access to your screws is just simple (pull draw cord open).
|
|
|
|
|
swaghole
Jan 2, 2009, 2:00 PM
Post #10 of 34
(18773 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 20, 2006
Posts: 371
|
reno wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: anykineclimb wrote: whats your biggest gripe with the BD? It's only meant to store 6 screws, and the handles stick out. The buckle sucks, and it doesn't seem to roll right. What kind of screws are you using? I don't have a screw roll, and just carry mine on a couple spare biners (three screws to a biner, and I use Grivel Helix screws.) I suppose you could use a crampon bag, like this one. Put all your screws in there, laying flat, and toss the whole thing in the bottom of the pack.
I had a question about carrying the screws loose. Don't they the thread get damaged when they bang against each other? I have some old hand-me-down Smileys that were stored this way and the thread are a little banged up (small nicks all over the shaft on the edge of the threads). The scews are a little harder to place because they have more restistance. I still use these screws - I usually lend them to my partners :)
|
|
|
|
|
reno
Jan 2, 2009, 2:54 PM
Post #11 of 34
(18765 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283
|
swaghole wrote: I had a question about carrying the screws loose. Don't they the thread get damaged when they bang against each other? I have some old hand-me-down Smileys that were stored this way and the thread are a little banged up (small nicks all over the shaft on the edge of the threads).
Good question, and something I hadn't thought of. I suppose it'd be a function of how roughly the screws are banged against each other, the hardness/softness of the metal, and repetition over time. Maybe use a pair of spare gloves to pad things in a bit?
I had some of those blue mesh sleeves that fit over my screws and haven't noticed any nicks or dings on the threads. Then, too, my ice screws spend the majority of their time in my gear bin, sadly. 
A friend/ice partner of mine has one of THESE THINGS and it seems to work well for him. Another option, perhaps.
|
|
|
|
|
swaghole
Jan 2, 2009, 3:05 PM
Post #12 of 34
(18758 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 20, 2006
Posts: 371
|
Funny thing - the Smileys seem to bear the brunt of the nicks while the older BDs are in great condition.
|
|
|
|
|
error
Jan 2, 2009, 6:50 PM
Post #13 of 34
(18730 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 28, 2008
Posts: 69
|
The cheapest way to protect threads is a piece of bike tube. Slide it on, put the cap, throw the thing in the crampon bag. Done.
A heavyweight Durex will do just as well, if you want to go fancy
|
|
|
|
|
flying_dutchman
Jan 3, 2009, 7:59 PM
Post #14 of 34
(18690 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 708
|
the orange roll does it's job just fine IMO. 6 screws in the 6 holes plus 3 more wrapped up inside ~ carries my rack fine. After all, it only has to get my screws to the crag and back home again without damage. Wrapping screws in a towel also works but that's bulkier.
As long as the screw teeth are protected and stay sharp, it's all good. The threads are secondary and a hella lot more durable.
|
|
|
|
|
chossmonkey
Jan 4, 2009, 9:32 PM
Post #16 of 34
(18611 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414
|
Its not the roll, it the roller!!!!!
I can't honestly say I really have any problems with my BD rolls. I put the longest screws to the outside one screw per slot unless it is a 13 and a 10 and alternate up and down for the long screws. Make sure you roll it tight and then get the buckle tight. It was a little tough at first but it works fine now.
I have one normal roll and one that came with the big toolbox suitcase thing. The one from the tool box holds a lot more screws and has a flap on one side. The flap kinda gets in the way. YMMV
You could try taking your mom's sewing machine and making your own.
|
|
|
|
|
brownie710
Jan 4, 2009, 10:15 PM
Post #17 of 34
(18603 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 25, 2007
Posts: 531
|
I use Lowe Alpine heavy duty corudra extra pockets backpacks for my points, it's huge and has beefy straps to secure it to your pack. Maybe give this a try instead of spending the loot on the crampon bag, they are cheaper
|
|
|
|
|
tomtom
Jan 5, 2009, 8:56 PM
Post #18 of 34
(18556 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 9, 2004
Posts: 366
|
I use this one and it works pretty well. I want to avoid getting nicks on screw threads or teeth and putting on the caps and fishnets with frozen fingers sucks.
YMMV.
|
|
|
|
|
the_climber
Jan 5, 2009, 9:38 PM
Post #19 of 34
(18545 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
|
Can't really say I've ever had a problem with any of the ice screw rolls I've tried.
Put screws in roll, roll up, put in pack.
If you are really worried about it and don't want to spend much money, get a strip of lightweight nylon (ripstop/siltarp/doesn't matter) about 30-35cm wide by 75cm (less/more if you want). Fold the edges down 1cm, then 1cm again (tripples the fabric on the edges) then Sew the edges. Take an extra patch of the material, some flat webbing (1/2" works great), a small plastic D-ring, and some velcro; sew to one end with webbing on one side and patch on the other making sure to sew in the D-ring. Sew Velcro to Webbing.
Wrap one screw at a time from end opposite webbing, wrap with webbing, toss in pack. carries 1 screw, 3 screws, or 18 screws.
It works, but then again so do the others.
Whatever one you use make sure it's a colour that shows up easily in the snow.
(This post was edited by the_climber on Jan 5, 2009, 9:40 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
brent_e
Jan 7, 2009, 11:17 PM
Post #20 of 34
(18466 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 5111
|
reno wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: anykineclimb wrote: whats your biggest gripe with the BD? It's only meant to store 6 screws, and the handles stick out. The buckle sucks, and it doesn't seem to roll right. What kind of screws are you using? I don't have a screw roll, and just carry mine on a couple spare biners (three screws to a biner, and I use Grivel Helix screws.) I suppose you could use a crampon bag, like this one. Put all your screws in there, laying flat, and toss the whole thing in the bottom of the pack.
while leaving grivel screws to hit each other in your pack isn't such a bad idea as they don't have sharp threads, leaving BD screws nicks the hell out of them.
if you find a better Roll, Doc, let us know. other wise put the screws on top of your puffy in your pack and they will lay better.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
shoo
Jan 30, 2009, 3:25 PM
Post #22 of 34
(18240 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 22, 2006
Posts: 1501
|
Is it just me, or is 6 screws really not enough? Why is everyone and their mother making screw rolls for 6?
My usual ice rack has 9 screws on it: 8 for regular placements, and the 9th is a super long keeper for v-threads. I've only had a couple of pitches in which I haven't used all 8 of the regulars.
|
|
|
|
|
the_climber
Jan 30, 2009, 5:09 PM
Post #23 of 34
(18202 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
|
shoo wrote: Is it just me, or is 6 screws really not enough? Why is everyone and their mother making screw rolls for 6? My usual ice rack has 9 screws on it: 8 for regular placements, and the 9th is a super long keeper for v-threads. I've only had a couple of pitches in which I haven't used all 8 of the regulars.
Short single pitch ice craging I rarely bring more than 6 screws. The exception to that is if the craging involves WI4 over 20m, in which case I'll likely take 8 or 9 screws.
For multipitch ice that isn't a rambling canyon I'll take 10 to 12 screws. 2 standard Ice Screw rolls.
The BD's and others may only have 6 slots, but it is very easy to carry 12 screws in one.
|
|
|
|
|
gunkiemike
Feb 2, 2009, 10:09 PM
Post #24 of 34
(18149 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2266
|
Scrap of nylon + 10 minutes sewing:
|
|
|
|
|
cliffhanger9
Moderator
Feb 3, 2009, 4:38 AM
Post #25 of 34
(18117 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 2275
|
anyone got one of these?
http://www.bdel.com/gear/ice_box.php
looks like a nice idea, no? keep all that awkward stuff packed together in one place.
expensive. but what do you think of the concept?
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
