[Almost proud to admit that I didn't hit Rumney at all last year. I might this year, but I won't go out of my way.

Of course the WMCC old guard isn't going to be pleased with all this spray on rc.com - Ward posted something on neclimbs about it already. So everyone should just go to Rumney instead.

Oh well. its still a HAUL from metrowest & boston, so I don't think they'll be seeing more than occasional visits.
as I recall the Old Guard was a bit cheesed off about the "unwashed masses" invading College Rock after the first BR guide...I read that somewhere, written by somebody...;-)

Actually, Farley isn't much farther from Boston than Rumney is. Of course, we all know that Farley sucks and Rumney is where the best routes are.

.. and according to NEclimbs, rumney is "...short shorts and sport bras, as far as the eye can see..." Go there. Farely sucks.

as I recall the Old Guard was a bit cheesed off about the "unwashed masses" invading College Rock after the first BR guide...I read that somewhere, written by somebody...;-)

Showing CR to Larry Laforge may not have been the biggest mistake of my life - but it probably makes the top 10. The real old guard managed to keep it on the down low for over 10 years - out of the first Eastern MA Climbing guide (predesessor to the forst Boston Rocks that Larry did). My bad.

[ ahh, nothing stays secret forever. if it wasn't you, it would have been somebody else. its so accesible, somebody would have found it eventuallty.

Farley? why, you can see that crag from the road! drive down rte 2 thru Erving, there it is. I looked for Ward's comments on NEclimbs, but couldn't find anything.

sympatico. I've succeffully avoided going there, ever. in fact, I want to print some t-shirts weith the slogan "Anywhere But Rumney" on the front, and "Sport is for Gym Rats"on the back ;-)

Showing CR to Larry Laforge may not have been the biggest mistake of my life - but it probably makes the top 10. The real old guard managed to keep it on the down low for over 10 years - out of the first Eastern MA Climbing guide (predesessor to the forst Boston Rocks that Larry did). My bad.

Yeah, too bad about the access. How much cooler would it have been if you'd gotten into Boston Rolls. I'm dating myself now, huh? I wonder how many people even know of the *existence* of that book, much less own a copy.

GO

Ward said:

I agree, but don't send them to Farley! A week ago the new parking lot at Farley had 22 cars in a lot designed for 15. The neighbourhood parking (8 spaces) was full as well, and there were plenty of cars in the overflow lot across the river.

There are lots of places along that route 2 corridor - most visible from the road when the leaves are down - Rattlesnake Gutter for example. There are two problems with popularizing them:

1. If there is anything sketchy with the access - and no matter who owns the rock and the approach therre will be something sketchy -a big uptick in activity will bring matters to a head - the outcome might not be good.
2. Bolt and more generally ethical wars on what the "right" type of climbing is.
3. Did I say two problems? The inevitable damage and erosion that goes along with increased use. as much as the gumby-ville atmosphere at CR is annoying I think the erosion and the amount of chalk on the rock there is far worse.

Rob, you don't have to be inclined to clip the boltz. In fact, you'd rarely see a que on any of the pure tard climbs.

sympatico. I've succeffully avoided going there, ever. in fact, I want to print some t-shirts weith the slogan "Anywhere But Rumney" on the front, and "Sport is for Gym Rats"on the back ;-)

Any other visual clues that can be used to identify this new lot? I assume you aren't talking about the parking across Rt 2 next to the bridge.

I try to remember that a lot of hard work and money has gone into making Farley what it is. Good thing there's a donation box at the parking lot kiosk to help remind me!!

Well put Jen!

Not that I will ever use it given the toxic waste site, semi-active volcano and all the damn choss there.

"Choss or Bust!"

Jay Rob will never go to rumney because the rock does not shatter into a million pieces when you stand on it.

Careful.... schist is a very close cousin to Gniess which = Farley

and having a chunk of talus means nothing if you've never pulled on a damn hold. Has had less rock fall than the gunks too

QQ is a greasy, spray painted piece of shit that happens to be close to boston. if it was in NH or VT it would never be seen, let alone climbed... ever.

Well put Jen!

Not that I will ever use it given the toxic waste site, semi-active volcano and all the damn choss there.

I've got two copies. One signed by all the...ah...participants.