Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab:
More Alien Test Results
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for The Lab

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Next page Last page  View All


jt512


Jun 18, 2009, 5:27 PM
Post #126 of 190 (8383 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [cracklover] More Alien Test Results (Lots of pics, very bandwidth intensive) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

cracklover wrote:
3 - All of the Aliens tested had an effective cam angle greater than the angle of the other cams. This means that before deformation of the cam lobe even begins, the cam is closer to the point of reaching the critical angle of 35 degrees. The higher the starting angle, the less metal needs to be deformed to reach the critical point. Which again, means less force required.

Even if the method of measuring the affect of the misdrilled axles on effective cam angle is imprecise, there's little doubt that in almost all of these samples, it resulted in a larger starting cam angle. Perhaps we don't have enough precision to predict the variance from cam to cam, without laying the lobes flat on a scanner bed, but on average, they were pretty consistently off in the direction of too high a cam angle.

We have no evidence that cam angle in this sample is predictive of failure load. I have conducted a regression of failure load on cam angle, adjusted for strength rating, and the p-value for cam angle is 0.81. Cam angle is completely insignificant in the sample. Its effect has either been obliterated by measurement error, is swamped out by the harness issue, or a combination of both; or, its effect is physically insignificant, as long as the angle is sufficiently less than the critical angle. I suspect that its effect really is insignificant or that what little effect there is has masked by the hardness issue. Regressing failure load on hardness, again adjusting for strength rating, the effect of hardness on failure load is in the expected direction (harder is better). The effect is not statistically significant, but the p-value is 0.12, low enough to suggest that the effect may be real, but that we need a bigger sample size to detect it.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Jun 18, 2009, 5:36 PM)


adatesman


Jun 18, 2009, 5:36 PM
Post #127 of 190 (8368 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479

Post deleted by adatesman [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

 


dynosore


Jun 18, 2009, 5:40 PM
Post #128 of 190 (8363 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 29, 2004
Posts: 1768

Re: [jt512] More Alien Test Results (Lots of pics, very bandwidth intensive) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512if you don't mind, what would the sample size have to be for us to be 95% confident these results are +/- 1kn, based on the variability in the data? Hopefully that made sense. I can't remember how to calculate n.....it seems like the sample is big enough to draw conclusions, but I'm rusty.


healyje


Jun 18, 2009, 5:48 PM
Post #129 of 190 (8355 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204

Re: [adatesman] More Alien Test Results (Lots of pics, very bandwidth intensive) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

adatesman wrote:
Dammit Cracklover, you're making me want to go do more testing!

I can send a half dozen older Metolius and a #1 Master cam that was stuck in a crack for a year, assaulted by various parties, and finally funked out of the slot.


Partner cracklover


Jun 18, 2009, 5:49 PM
Post #130 of 190 (8347 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162

Re: [jt512] More Alien Test Results (Lots of pics, very bandwidth intensive) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
3 - All of the Aliens tested had an effective cam angle greater than the angle of the other cams. This means that before deformation of the cam lobe even begins, the cam is closer to the point of reaching the critical angle of 35 degrees. The higher the starting angle, the less metal needs to be deformed to reach the critical point. Which again, means less force required.

Even if the method of measuring the affect of the misdrilled axles on effective cam angle is imprecise, there's little doubt that in almost all of these samples, it resulted in a larger starting cam angle. Perhaps we don't have enough precision to predict the variance from cam to cam, without laying the lobes flat on a scanner bed, but on average, they were pretty consistently off in the direction of too high a cam angle.

We have no evidence that cam angle in this sample is predictive of failure load. I have conducted a regression of failure load on cam angle, adjusted for strength rating, and the p-value for cam angle is 0.81. Cam angle is completely insignificant in the sample. Its effect has either been obliterated by measurement error, or swamped out by the harness issue, or a combination of both. I suspect that it is has mainly been masked by the hardness issue. Regressing failure load on hardness, again adjusting for strength rating, the effect of hardness on failure load is in the expected direction (harder is better). The effect is not statistically significant, but the p-value is 0.12, low enough to suggest that the effect may be real, but that we need a bigger sample size to detect it.

Jay

As we agreed before, I think the margin for error is too big compared to the range of values to see a statistically significant difference in pullout based on measured cam angle.

But you missed my point, (or I didn't make it clearly enough) which is that 1 - Based on the geometry of the Alien cam lobes, the angle starts off higher than that of other cams, and 1(a) even if the margin for error is too great to see a nice even progression, that doesn't change the fact that overall, the cams have an effective cam angle that's even higher than they would if the lobes were drilled properly.

So it's reasonable to assume that this plays a significant factor in explaining why the *overall population* of Aliens pull out before something else on the cams break.

Perhaps if Aric scans in the lobes, we can get a more precise measurement of axle hole to work with. Then we could see if that gets rid of enough slop in the numbers to improve the statistical correlation.

GO


jt512


Jun 18, 2009, 6:21 PM
Post #131 of 190 (8325 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [cracklover] More Alien Test Results (Lots of pics, very bandwidth intensive) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

cracklover wrote:
jt512 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
3 - All of the Aliens tested had an effective cam angle greater than the angle of the other cams. This means that before deformation of the cam lobe even begins, the cam is closer to the point of reaching the critical angle of 35 degrees. The higher the starting angle, the less metal needs to be deformed to reach the critical point. Which again, means less force required.

Even if the method of measuring the affect of the misdrilled axles on effective cam angle is imprecise, there's little doubt that in almost all of these samples, it resulted in a larger starting cam angle. Perhaps we don't have enough precision to predict the variance from cam to cam, without laying the lobes flat on a scanner bed, but on average, they were pretty consistently off in the direction of too high a cam angle.

We have no evidence that cam angle in this sample is predictive of failure load. I have conducted a regression of failure load on cam angle, adjusted for strength rating, and the p-value for cam angle is 0.81. Cam angle is completely insignificant in the sample. Its effect has either been obliterated by measurement error, or swamped out by the harness issue, or a combination of both. I suspect that it is has mainly been masked by the hardness issue. Regressing failure load on hardness, again adjusting for strength rating, the effect of hardness on failure load is in the expected direction (harder is better). The effect is not statistically significant, but the p-value is 0.12, low enough to suggest that the effect may be real, but that we need a bigger sample size to detect it.

Jay

As we agreed before, I think the margin for error is too big compared to the range of values to see a statistically significant difference in pullout based on measured cam angle.

But you missed my point, (or I didn't make it clearly enough) which is that 1 - Based on the geometry of the Alien cam lobes, the angle starts off higher than that of other cams, and 1(a) even if the margin for error is too great to see a nice even progression, that doesn't change the fact that overall, the cams have an effective cam angle that's even higher than they would if the lobes were drilled properly.

No. I don't think I missed your point. Rather, I don't think the effective cam angles in the sample have an important effect on failure load—at least not when the plates are steel. So far, all the evidence points to lobe hardness. Your measurements of the "final" cam angles all modestly exceeding the critical angle, 31 degrees, are highly suggestive, I think, that the softness of the cam lobes is the most important predictor, after strength rating, of failure load. (And, I suspect that strength rating is a surrogate measure of cam size—the smaller the cam, the lower the failure load, since it takes less flattening to reach the critical angle.) Now, when the plates are granite, and the effective cam angle closer to the critical angle, we may see an effect of cam angle.

In reply to:
So it's reasonable to assume that this plays a significant factor in explaining why the *overall population* of Aliens pull out before something else on the cams break.

I doubt it. It seems to me that the main reason that Aliens pull out, whereas other brands break, is because the Alien cam lobes are softer. Hence, they flatten out, attain the critical angle, and pull out. In contrast, other brands, having harder lobes, flatten less, do not attain the critical angle, and break before pulling out (at least that's what I suspect, since I haven't looked carefully at the non-Alien data).

In reply to:
Perhaps if Aric scans in the lobes, we can get a more precise measurement of axle hole to work with. Then we could see if that gets rid of enough slop in the numbers to improve the statistical correlation.

I'll certainly rerun the analysis if he can provide that data.

Jay


jt512


Jun 18, 2009, 6:46 PM
Post #132 of 190 (8312 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [adatesman] More Alien Test Results (Lots of pics, very bandwidth intensive) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

adatesman wrote:
So here's a question for you all... I've got Healyje's 4 Hybrids plus the possibility of a couple regular ones from the 90's headed my way in the very near future. I just ordered 2 pair of granite inserts for my fixture, which should be ready next week, so do we test the additional samples the same as the others so that we have a larger data set or test them on the granite?

I think that an important hypothesis to test is that the softer Alien cam lobes are an advantage in real rock. That's their claim isn't it: that they "bite" better? The question is would using granite inserts in your test rig be a valid test of the behavior of Aliens in a natural crack?

Testing in granite would also help to determine the importance of mislocatation of the axle, since the cam angle will be closer to the critical angle.

Also, testing them in granite does not necessarily preclude combining them with the steel data for analysis. With a sufficiently large granite sample, I should be able to statistically control for the effect of the test surface. With just four units in the granite sample, the statistical adjustment might be problematic. Six would be a lot better than four, and eight would be a lot better than six. Additionally, the granite sample should be comparable to the steel sample in terms of size and design. I'm a little concerned about using mostly hybrids in the granite sample, since there were few hybrids in the steel sample. Therefore, to the extent that "hybrid" has an effect, it will be confounded with the "granite" effect.

In reply to:
EDIT- BTW, I'll be resurfacing the fixture to the UIAA max roughness either way.

Careful. If you make the roughness of the granite surface different than that of the steel surface, then the effect of roughness will be completely confounded with the effect of surface material. We won't be able to attribute differences in performance between the steel and granite samples to an effect of the surface material per se. All we will be able to say about any observed differences in performance is that they are due to a combination of the surface material and the surface roughness.

Jay


Partner cracklover


Jun 18, 2009, 6:50 PM
Post #133 of 190 (8306 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162

Re: [jt512] More Alien Test Results (Lots of pics, very bandwidth intensive) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Jay, if you accept that the Aliens slip out when the flattening of their cam lobes reaches a critical angle, then how can you discard the relevance of the starting cam angle? You may not agree with the methodology of measuring that cam angle, but at least theoretically, you must see that the greater the starting cam angle, the less metal must be displaced before the cam reaches the "Kodas point" and slips out of the fixture.

I mean, let's say that in Aric's fixture, a typical cam will pull out of when it gets to 35 degrees. Wouldn't you expect that a cam that started with an angle of 34 degrees, all other things being equal, would take much less force to pull out than one starting at 14 degrees?

GO


adatesman


Jun 18, 2009, 8:02 PM
Post #134 of 190 (8266 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479

Post deleted by adatesman [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

 


jt512


Jun 18, 2009, 8:30 PM
Post #135 of 190 (8249 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [cracklover] More Alien Test Results (Lots of pics, very bandwidth intensive) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

cracklover wrote:
Wouldn't you expect that a cam that started with an angle of 34 degrees, all other things being equal, would take much less force to pull out than one starting at 14 degrees?

I would think so, but the relation between cam angle and failure load, for a given cam size, may not be linear. There may be a sort of threshold distance between the cam angle and the critical angle beyond which the effect of cam angle is negligible. Like I said in a previous post, if the tests are done in a granite jig, where the cam angles will be much closer to the critical angle, then we might be more likely observe an effect of cam angle. Regardless, I think that your hypothesis—that Aliens pull out of the test apparatus, whereas other brands of cam break, is mainly due to the actual cam angle of the Aliens being greater—is likely to be false. I suspect that the effect of cam hardness is much greater.

Another factor that could be obscuring the effect of cam angle in the current data is that the dataset does not include a good measure of cam size. The strongest predictor of failure load in the dataset is rated strength. Since, tentatively, most of the Aliens appear to fail as a result of flattening until the effective cam angle attains the critical angle, and the smaller the cam, the less flattening needs to occur for the critical angle to be attained; for any given cam angle, the smaller the cam, the lower the failure load. Therefore, in order to measure the effect of cam angle, the effect of cam size has to be well controlled. However, the best measure of cam size in the dataset is rated strength, an imprecise surrogate for cam size. Hence, the effect (if any) of cam angle is confounded with the effect of cam size in my regression analysis.

Having an accurate measure of cam size would likely be extremely valuable in teasing out the effect of angle on failure load. So, if you're willing to take on another little measurement project, measuring the cam sizes should prove very useful. I'm not sure what the best measure would be—perhaps the cam radius measured from the advertised calculated cam center to the edge of the cam at the midpoint of the cam's expansion range. Don't take measurements from the observed actual axle center, because that would confound cam size and cam angle.

Edit: I stated this wrong originally. The measurement of the radius should be from the true cam center, as determined by the software.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Jun 18, 2009, 8:45 PM)


jt512


Jun 18, 2009, 8:35 PM
Post #136 of 190 (8243 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [adatesman] More Alien Test Results (Lots of pics, very bandwidth intensive) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

adatesman wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Perhaps if Aric scans in the lobes, we can get a more precise measurement of axle hole to work with. Then we could see if that gets rid of enough slop in the numbers to improve the statistical correlation.

Ok Cracklover, have at it. The scans of all the lobes are available here: Link.

See my previous post. I think getting an accurate measurement of cam size is going to be at least as important as getting a more accurate measurement of cam angle. Maybe Gabe can do both simultaneously.

Jay


moof


Jun 18, 2009, 8:42 PM
Post #137 of 190 (8236 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 400

Re: [healyje] More Alien Test Results (Lots of pics, very bandwidth intensive) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

healyje wrote:
adatesman wrote:
Dammit Cracklover, you're making me want to go do more testing!

I can send a half dozen older Metolius and a #1 Master cam that was stuck in a crack for a year, assaulted by various parties, and finally funked out of the slot.

Is that what finally happened to that yellow cam? Damn I worked on that thing for close to an hour and got 3/4 lobes to moves, but couldn't for the life of my see what was going on in the very back.

I think I have a few pieces I should donate too. I think I've got a wired bliss, and some other small crap.


Partner cracklover


Jun 18, 2009, 9:01 PM
Post #138 of 190 (8218 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162

Re: [jt512] More Alien Test Results (Lots of pics, very bandwidth intensive) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Wouldn't you expect that a cam that started with an angle of 34 degrees, all other things being equal, would take much less force to pull out than one starting at 14 degrees?

I would think so, but the relation between cam angle and failure load, for a given cam size, may not be linear. There may be a sort of threshold distance between the cam angle and the critical angle beyond which the effect of cam angle is negligible.

Fair enough.

In reply to:
Like I said in a previous post, if the tests are done in a granite jig, where the cam angles will be much closer to the critical angle, then we might be more likely observe an effect of cam angle.

Agreed.

In reply to:
Regardless, I think that your hypothesis—that Aliens pull out of the test apparatus, whereas other brands of cam break, is mainly due to the actual cam angle of the Aliens being greater—is likely to be false.

I never said anything like that! I suggested three elements that could effect the amount of force required to flatten a lobe to 35 degrees. At no time did I make an estimate as to which of the three would have the largest impact.

In fact, from my first analytical post on the subject, I pretty much stated that more than anything else, "size matters"!

In reply to:
However, the best measure of cam size in the dataset is rated strength, an imprecise surrogate for cam size. Hence, the effect (if any) of cam angle is confounded with the effect of cam size in my regression analysis.

No, the best measure of cam size is cam size. There were four grey Aliens and five yellow tested. So at least you have two small datasets controlled for size. but so far as I can see, even within those datasets, there is zero correlation to effective cam angle.

Still, when I have time, I'll go through Aric's latest pics of mangled cam lobes.

GO


jt512


Jun 18, 2009, 9:56 PM
Post #139 of 190 (8193 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [cracklover] More Alien Test Results (Lots of pics, very bandwidth intensive) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

cracklover wrote:

In reply to:
Regardless, I think that your hypothesis—that Aliens pull out of the test apparatus, whereas other brands of cam break, is mainly due to the actual cam angle of the Aliens being greater—is likely to be false.

I never said anything like that!

You're right. I misread your statement.

In reply to:
In reply to:
However, the best measure of cam size in the dataset is rated strength, an imprecise surrogate for cam size. Hence, the effect (if any) of cam angle is confounded with the effect of cam size in my regression analysis.

No, the best measure of cam size is cam size. There were four grey Aliens and five yellow tested. So at least you have two small datasets controlled for size.


Well, "green" and "yellow" aren't numbers. I need to know the actual size of the cam, since apparently it is the overarching effect. I think the best way to measure it would be the radius described in my earlier post, though I'm not sure.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Jun 18, 2009, 9:57 PM)


adatesman


Jun 18, 2009, 10:03 PM
Post #140 of 190 (8185 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479

Post deleted by adatesman [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

 


jt512


Jun 18, 2009, 10:16 PM
Post #141 of 190 (8786 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [adatesman] More Alien Test Results (Lots of pics, very bandwidth intensive) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

adatesman wrote:
jt512 wrote:
adatesman wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Perhaps if Aric scans in the lobes, we can get a more precise measurement of axle hole to work with. Then we could see if that gets rid of enough slop in the numbers to improve the statistical correlation.

Ok Cracklover, have at it. The scans of all the lobes are available here: Link.

See my previous post. I think getting an accurate measurement of cam size is going to be at least as important as getting a more accurate measurement of cam angle. Maybe Gabe can do both simultaneously.

Jay

Funny you should mention it, as I was just going through my pile of gear to see what's available to be sacrificed and it's easy enough to measure the spread on the fixture to calculate the radius.

Aric, if you test any hybrids, is it possible to get the spread at each lobe?

Jay


adatesman


Jun 18, 2009, 10:40 PM
Post #142 of 190 (8765 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479

Post deleted by adatesman [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

 


jt512


Jun 18, 2009, 11:11 PM
Post #143 of 190 (8747 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [adatesman] More Alien Test Results (Lots of pics, very bandwidth intensive) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

adatesman wrote:
Yup, as suggested in one of these threads I'll put the pieces in the fixture horizontally for the pic so that we get good shots of exactly where the lobes are making contact.

EDIT- That is, if I'm understanding what you're asking correctly...

Well, what I'm suggesting is that we get need some accurate measure of the radius of the cam. My suggestion was that it be at the midpoint of the cam's expansion range, but the actual contact point with the jig has merit too. I can see advantages and disadvantages to each way, with no clear winner. The problem with hybrids is that the lobes have different radii. I'm not sure what the best way to deal with than in the analysis would be, but the default options would be to average them. Regardless, we should know the radius of each lobe for hybrid cams, if that is possible.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Jun 18, 2009, 11:17 PM)


jfield


Jun 19, 2009, 2:53 AM
Post #144 of 190 (8713 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 26, 2005
Posts: 5

Re: [adatesman] More Alien Test Results (Lots of pics, very bandwidth intensive) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I would like to weigh in on the issue of cam slippage/changing cam angles/lobe deformation as I have thought about this problem over the years. (Full disclosure: I invented the Metolius Supercam and wrote the Cam Fitter, but I don't work for Metolius, and climbing is only a relatively minor pastime for me.)

It is definitely the case that misdrilled axle holes can - under the right circumstances - result in failure at predictably low loads. Metolius has seen that, and the physics is unequivocal. That said, I think it is important to keep perspective on the situation. Most aliens are good, most bad ones hold a sizable percentage of the rated strength, most falls generate less force than this - and almost all the climbing gear out there has Achille's heel type problems. I know of no major manufacturer - to a greater or lesser degree - that does not suffer from fundamental square one design weaknesses in their gear. My ire is raised in the case of the aliens however, by the combination of the several unrelated flaws, the length of time in years which this has gone unfixed, and the relative ease with which the flaws could be eliminated. Put together, I think this is a pretty disturbing picture.

To the present point, I believe the cams popping out of the fixture is a combined failure caused by the flat spotting occurring before the axle bending. If you had a force versus displacement curve on the cams, I believe you would find that there is an inflection point in the force as the force rises up past the point required to start bending the axle. At this time, the lobes have to take up a lot of slack very quickly, yet the force is not rising very quickly. As a result, the cam ceases to flat spot more and "climbs up" onto the leading edge of the flat spot. This is a very unstable situation because as people have noted the effective cam angle is much higher but also the contact patch area is greatly reduced. Now, at first, I imagine this process is in equilibrium, but as we pass the inflection point and the force starts to rise rapidly again, it becomes quite likely that the cam will pop - due to increased shear stress over the (now smaller) contact patch.

Why does the force start to rise rapidly again - e.g. why an inflection point? Because the cosine factor of the axle bend starts to become a big deal and further displacement is not working directly perpendicular to the axle any more - e.g. trying to stretch the axle.

For cam lobe materials, you would like something which has a shear strength that is on the same order as that of the working surface - perhaps a few times higher if the surface is macroscopically rough - than the material you are working against. e.g. aluminum versus rock. The reason is that this provides the most even distribution of loading across the largest contact patch. Hard on soft, or soft on hard are not as good. It turns out that aluminum is a good choice against rock - because it is kind of soft and squishy. In fact, I am very dubious that 7075 is an advantage, and I think that titanium would almost certainly be worse. Aluminum is not a good choice against a steel fixture. As a practical matter, these small cams will grind down into the rock of a placement but they cannot do so against the steel fixture. Therefore, I am not convinced that this particular "popping" failure would occur on rock.

From the standpoint of hypothesis testing on correlation, I believe that the important dependent term to study would be axle strength times cam lobe hardness divided by square root of cam radius of curvature. Tentatively, I don't think that you are going to be able to aggregate enough data to separate the magnitude of this term out from the first order terms of each of these independent variables in the presence of noisy results. So, absent some kind of analysis that suggests how many cams would be required to build up enough statistical power, I am pretty dubious.

For the geeky (and strong of will), take a look at Sec. 8 & 9 in Landau/Lifshitz Theory of Elasticity. Problem 9.2 on the line contact between cylinders can be perturbatively reformulated to include the effects of shear forces. The result is that the contact patch shift and therefore also the effective cam angle change is extremely small even for large deformations - at least in the elastic limit. So, tentatively, I conclude that flat spotting with a perfectly rigid axle and axle hole is probably not singly responsible for this failure.

People interested in building machine cams with moving/sliding axles or bearing surfaces should take note here. Ray Jardine's original invention is manifestly stable against all manner of insult and injury. There is no physical requirement that this is true for an arbitrary design in general however. Stability analysis is very important and surprisingly difficult to do properly.


cheers
John


verticon


Jun 19, 2009, 8:10 AM
Post #145 of 190 (8685 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 22, 2005
Posts: 223

Re: [adatesman] More Alien Test Results (Lots of pics, very bandwidth intensive) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The axle holes of the softer lobes were deformed during the test, as their edges were compressed with the same forces as for the fixture side (less deformation though, because of the even contact surface with the axle). So far, you've been looking for a correlation between the hardness of the lobes and the failure cam angle, ignoring the translation of the center point toward the fixture, but the angle is further increased by the ovalization of the axle hole.

I think this test has only an informative value, as far as it has to deal with so many variables which are masking one another. However, the test can be used to set a proper methodology for further tests.
IMHO this methodology would require (among others):
- A separate test for each size on a significant number of samples (mixed sizes = different qt. of deformed metal=errant results)
- Grouping of samples according to the axle hardness, measured before the test (to take out this variable for a given lot)
- A comparative study of each cam lobe geometry before and after testing (see the hole deformation point above)

What do you think about pull testing each individual lobe ? It could be mounted on an axle between two ball-bearings which would roll on one (smooth) side of the fixture, while the cam would press on the other side and you pull on the axle with some king of a U stem. This way, you only have to deal with the lobe properties (and I guess you already have a lot of samples by now)


adatesman


Jun 19, 2009, 1:16 PM
Post #146 of 190 (8658 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479

Post deleted by adatesman [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

 


Partner cracklover


Jun 19, 2009, 1:35 PM
Post #147 of 190 (8650 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162

Re: [adatesman] More Alien Test Results (Lots of pics, very bandwidth intensive) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

 
adatesman wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Perhaps if Aric scans in the lobes, we can get a more precise measurement of axle hole to work with. Then we could see if that gets rid of enough slop in the numbers to improve the statistical correlation.

Ok Cracklover, have at it. The scans of all the lobes are available here: Link

A couple notes on the scans:
1. The side scanned is the side with less apparent deformation, and in cases where the axle is bent the deformation on the other side could be significant.
2. The reason for this that I needed to clean the edge up with a dremel so that it would sit on the hardness tester properly.
3. The numbers in the pics correspond to the numbers in the hardness tests (the lobes are labeled on the other side).
4. Sample 22 has no numbers as I couldn't do a hardness test on it.
5. Buckled and cracked lobes are notated.
6. Some of the slightly bent axles may not be apparent as the bend wasn't enough to catch on the plate of the scanner and rotated all the way downward.

Just a quick followup on this.

I've been processing the images, but it takes a while, and I'm only partway done. Some interesting facts, though:

1 -The photos taken by Aric straight on and then run through the middle-analyzer software gave results that are qualitatively very similar to what I see on the scanner image. So, for example if his original image showed a theoretical center point that's 3mm up and right of the true axle, invariably that's what I see in my analysis of the images taken from the scanner.

However...

2 - There are very small changes. And those can, depending on the specific relationship between the theoretical center and the true axle center, equal quite significant changes in effective cam angle.

I'll probably post my results later today.

GO


(This post was edited by cracklover on Jun 19, 2009, 8:58 PM)


hansundfritz


Jun 19, 2009, 2:06 PM
Post #148 of 190 (8636 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 18, 2008
Posts: 139

Re: [adatesman] More Alien Test Results (Lots of pics, very bandwidth intensive) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Aric: I don't personally know Larry at Mtn Tools -- except from having called him up to buy stuff. He's approachable and likes a good chat.

As for measuring the size of the lobes: One approach might be to simply measure their total volume, which would yield a variable that would perform better in a regression analysis than "Green" or "Yellow" (!). It might also be useful to have a variable for the width of the cam surface that contacts the rock/fixture.


hafilax


Jun 19, 2009, 5:35 PM
Post #149 of 190 (8574 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2007
Posts: 3025

Re: [jfield] More Alien Test Results (Lots of pics, very bandwidth intensive) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks jfield. Very interesting reading. It's great to hear a different perspective on all of this.

Another effect of the axle bending seems to be that the lobes rotate perpendicular to the axle. This further reduces the contact area increasing the likelihood of shearing.

If you don't think that this 'popping out' would happen on rock, is there a better way to pull test Aliens? Will Aric's rock test jig faces yield different results?

If the rock is able to deform along with the cam lobes I'm guessing that it would form a little pocket for the cam to work against improving the holding power beyond the simple parallel crack model.


adatesman


Jun 19, 2009, 5:57 PM
Post #150 of 190 (8562 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479

Post deleted by adatesman [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

 

First page Previous page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Information : The Lab

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook