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sittingduck
Jul 17, 2009, 12:49 PM
Post #26 of 108
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Funny video!
Do you always have that many quickdraws to play with at the end of a sport climb? Could you demonstrate how to thread the chains when there are no quickdraws left at the end of the climb?
TIA 
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mikebarter387
Jul 17, 2009, 1:41 PM
Post #27 of 108
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See that sewn sling. If you know enough about draws you can figure out the rest. Another idiot on the RC.
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sittingduck
Jul 17, 2009, 2:39 PM
Post #28 of 108
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mikebarter387 wrote: See that sewn sling. If you know enough about draws you can figure out the rest. Another idiot on the RC.
This is the beginners forum, so I was thinking that you where making this video to teach beginners? As an idiot beginner, I do clearly not know enough about draws, could you explain how I'm supposed to use that sewn sling?
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mikebarter387
Jul 17, 2009, 3:00 PM
Post #29 of 108
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Sorry I have to deal with so many smart asses here that sometimes you mix in a real person once in awhile.
You can watch this and just back up with what ever you have available to the other chain
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U6hnboCOBz0
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sittingduck
Jul 17, 2009, 3:21 PM
Post #30 of 108
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mikebarter387 wrote: Sorry I have to deal with so many smart asses here that sometimes you mix in a real person once in awhile. You can watch this and just back up with what ever you have available to the other chain http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U6hnboCOBz0
No problem, I watched the video, but there you are using additional gear to the sling. I am a bit confused since you said I could do the operation with that sewn sling and one carabiner!?
Edit: missed the part where you said back up to the other chain with whatever gear available 
(This post was edited by sittingduck on Jul 17, 2009, 3:43 PM)
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sittingduck
Jul 18, 2009, 3:33 PM
Post #31 of 108
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Embarrassing thing is that I, the idiot, know a way to do the operation redundant with only that sewn sling and one screwgate carabiner 
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mikebarter387
Jul 18, 2009, 4:25 PM
Post #32 of 108
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There are a number of ways to do it. Careful though there is no real hunting season for ducks here. They just blast away not caring what they kill or how they kill it as long as it is dead. All the hunting standards of Dick Cheney.
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sungam
Jul 18, 2009, 8:58 PM
Post #34 of 108
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Larks foot to the chain on the right, clove to your belay loop, biner to the other chain.
Best of luck 
More realistically - bring the necessary gearz.
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sittingduck
Jul 18, 2009, 9:37 PM
Post #35 of 108
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sungam wrote: Larks foot to the chain on the right, clove to your belay loop, biner to the other chain. Best of luck More realistically - bring the necessary gearz.
Very clever, although not redundant (you'll be connected only by the belay loop), so it do not meet the criteria of this challenge.
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acorneau
Jul 18, 2009, 9:59 PM
Post #36 of 108
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sittingduck wrote: Here are the situation at the top of the climb Sooooo ,,,?
Clip both chains with the biner.
Duh!
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acorneau
Jul 18, 2009, 10:00 PM
Post #37 of 108
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sittingduck wrote: Very clever, although not redundant (you'll be connected only by the belay loop), so it do not meet the criteria of this challenge.
Belay loops are made with TWO loops of webbing, so yes, you ARE redundant.
(This post was edited by acorneau on Jul 18, 2009, 10:00 PM)
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sittingduck
Jul 18, 2009, 10:18 PM
Post #38 of 108
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acorneau wrote: sittingduck wrote: Here are the situation at the top of the climb Sooooo ,,,? Clip both chains with the biner. Duh!
Super minimalistic, sorry its not redundant on two points, the biner and belay loop, and you get three axle loading of the biner.
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sittingduck
Jul 18, 2009, 10:22 PM
Post #39 of 108
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acorneau wrote: sittingduck wrote: Very clever, although not redundant (you'll be connected only by the belay loop), so it do not meet the criteria of this challenge. Belay loops are made with TWO loops of webbing, so yes, you ARE redundant.
No it is not redundant. If it snaps you fly.
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acorneau
Jul 18, 2009, 10:31 PM
Post #40 of 108
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sittingduck wrote: Super minimalistic, sorry its not redundant on two points, the biner and belay loop, and you get three axle loading of the biner.
You're missing the point:
The biner does not need to be redundant, the sling does not need to be redundant, the belay loop does not need to be redundant.
The only thing that really needs to be redundant are the connections to the rock (i.e. bolts).
Oh, and I think you're trying to say "tri-axle loading". Assuming the chains are of appropriate length, the biner would not be loaded in a tr-axle situation. Like this:
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sungam
Jul 18, 2009, 10:48 PM
Post #41 of 108
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sittingduck wrote: acorneau wrote: sittingduck wrote: Very clever, although not redundant (you'll be connected only by the belay loop), so it do not meet the criteria of this challenge. Belay loops are made with TWO loops of webbing, so yes, you ARE redundant. No it is not redundant. If it snaps you fly.
HOLY SHITZ!
ALL BELAYS AND REPELS ARE NOT REDUNDANT!
n00b.
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sittingduck
Jul 18, 2009, 10:52 PM
Post #42 of 108
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acorneau wrote: sittingduck wrote: Super minimalistic, sorry its not redundant on two points, the biner and belay loop, and you get three axle loading of the biner. You're missing the point: The biner does not need to be redundant, the sling does not need to be redundant, the belay loop does not need to be redundant. The only thing that really needs to be redundant are the connections to the rock (i.e. bolts). Oh, and I think you're trying to say "tri-axle loading". Assuming the chains are of appropriate length, the biner would not be loaded in a tr-axle situation. Like this:
Nothing has to be redundant, you may solo the route if you like.
In order to solve THIS callenge it has to be redundant, ok?
EDIT: Same goes to SUNGAM
(This post was edited by sittingduck on Jul 18, 2009, 10:55 PM)
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sungam
Jul 18, 2009, 10:55 PM
Post #43 of 108
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Dude, if you're that fucking desperate, then do the clove hitch through the tie in loops instead of the belay loop. BFD.
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marc801
Jul 19, 2009, 12:23 AM
Post #45 of 108
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sittingduck wrote: Here are the situation at the top of the climb  Sooooo ,,,?
On that other point, you can't suddenly start crying about the supposed lack of redundancy over the use of such things as a locking biner and/or the belay loop, which are normally used singly and don't require redundancy. That's just changing the rules so you can claim you won an internet argument and satisfy your ego.
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sittingduck
Jul 19, 2009, 1:18 AM
Post #46 of 108
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marc801 wrote: sittingduck wrote: Here are the situation at the top of the climb Sooooo ,,,? Actually, assuming the chains are standard 3/8" links, it is possible to squeeze a bight of rope through the bottom links. How tight a fit depends on your rope. You can also pretty easily fit a bight of rope through the bolt hanger itself. On that other point, you can't suddenly start crying about the supposed lack of redundancy over the use of such things as a locking biner and/or the belay loop, which are normally used singly and don't require redundancy. That's just changing the rules so you can claim you won an internet argument and satisfy your ego.
It is not possible to get a bight through the chains in the original posters video, hence the challenge.
A single rope, a locking biner or the belay loop is not redundant. I have never looked upon them as redundant and certainly not changed any rules. I guess you use methods that are not redundant, and try to ridicule me for pointing out that stuff you look upon as redundant, actually ain't redundant.
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bill413
Jul 19, 2009, 2:11 AM
Post #47 of 108
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sittingduck wrote: marc801 wrote: sittingduck wrote: Here are the situation at the top of the climb Sooooo ,,,? Actually, assuming the chains are standard 3/8" links, it is possible to squeeze a bight of rope through the bottom links. How tight a fit depends on your rope. You can also pretty easily fit a bight of rope through the bolt hanger itself. On that other point, you can't suddenly start crying about the supposed lack of redundancy over the use of such things as a locking biner and/or the belay loop, which are normally used singly and don't require redundancy. That's just changing the rules so you can claim you won an internet argument and satisfy your ego. It is not possible to get a bight through the chains in the original posters video, hence the challenge. A single rope, a locking biner or the belay loop is not redundant. I have never looked upon them as redundant and certainly not changed any rules. I guess you use methods that are not redundant, and try to ridicule me for pointing out that stuff you look upon as redundant, actually ain't redundant.
I will accept that a single, unaltered sling is not redundant. I will accept that a single biner is not redundant (but do you routinely belay with doubled biners? Even with a Grigri?). The belay loop is inherently redundant. It is not a single short sling. It is a multi-layered loop - depending on the manufacturer it is two or three layers of webbing, well & multiply stitched. It is probably stronger than any other component of your harness.
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milesenoell
Jul 19, 2009, 4:48 AM
Post #48 of 108
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I feel like a fucking trout for biting, but here you go... clip your belay loop to a chain while clipping the rope at the same time. Then girth hitch the sling to BOTH tie in points on your harness (cause the belay loop apparently isn't good enough) then pass the sling through BOTH chains and tie it back off to BOTH tie in points on your harness (you need to have a long sling or be able to tie a real small knot). Then you can pull some rope through the biner tie a bowline on a bight through BOTH your tie in points on your harness, untie your 8, thread the chains, retie your 8, unclip the biner, untie the sling and presto!
(of course you could tie off the sling to a chain directly but it seems like more fun to tie off to BOTH tie in points and turn your harness into a total clusterfuck)
(This post was edited by milesenoell on Jul 19, 2009, 4:51 AM)
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playouts1de
Jul 19, 2009, 10:17 AM
Post #50 of 108
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I lurk WAY too much and hardly ever post, BUT sittingduck sounds way too much like Majid to be legit. Posing as a self proclaimed noob, then getting really anal about the criteria of the question, admitting to knowing more than he originally stated ect...
Maybe I'm wrong, just cautious....
If he tries to split the runner and rap off it, I win.
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