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ecjohnson
Sep 11, 2005, 12:26 AM
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Cracks shouldn't be bolted!!!!! I like to climb bolted cracks with gear, especially when there are a bunch of sport climbers around!!
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c22
Sep 11, 2005, 1:34 AM
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It seems like you are all missing the obvious. He has limited gear, and there are very few bolted cracks... SO TR THE DAMN THING! The number of quality cracks out there that can be TRed is enormous.
Just my 2 cents
-Dan
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dirtineye
Sep 11, 2005, 2:01 AM
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Sport climbers are all going to hell. I think I read that in the bible somewhere.
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speedywon
Sep 11, 2005, 3:25 AM
Post #29 of 132
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In reply to: Even on a splitter just climb it 2 much gear takes the fun out of the climb anyway
Man, it is amazing how punctuation can increase reading comprehension.
Even on a splitter, just climb it. Too much gear takes the fun out of the climb anyway.
Sorry, I can't help it. I'm a teacher.
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cosmiccragsman
Sep 11, 2005, 3:45 AM
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lolololol
Good one dirtineye!
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subantz
Nov 26, 2009, 12:02 AM
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[quote "dirtineye"]Sport climbers are all going to hell. I think I read that in the bible somewhere.[/quote]
What about the boulderers. We get a free pass to kick your ass.
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csproul
Nov 26, 2009, 12:27 AM
Post #32 of 132
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subantz wrote: [quote "dirtineye"]Sport climbers are all going to hell. I think I read that in the bible somewhere.[/quote] What about the boulderers. We get a free pass to kick your ass.
(This post was edited by csproul on Nov 26, 2009, 12:28 AM)
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avalon420
Nov 26, 2009, 12:53 AM
Post #33 of 132
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subantz wrote: [quote "dirtineye"]Sport climbers are all going to hell. I think I read that in the bible somewhere.[/quote] What about the boulderers. We get a free pass to kick your ass.
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avalon420
Nov 26, 2009, 1:16 AM
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asandh wrote: tucsonalex wrote: In reply to: or are bolted to avoid lugging a trad rack to a mostly sport area. Yep, well, duh, that pretty much gives you all the excuse you need ... my trad rack's too heavy, bolt some cracks for me ... :cry: Lets see ... Sport Climbers are ... Too lazy to carry a trad rack ... Too lazy to place their own draws ... Too lazy to rap off their anchors so they lower ... Worried about getting killed when they lower so they have a whole separate thread that whines about how dangerous it is ... Sport Climbers ... How 'bout we just chop all the lead bolts because they are just there for show anyway, and you fess up to what you're really doing ... Top Roping ... not that there's anything wrong with that. :roll: ... Then you could also have fixed ropes hanging from your fixed anchors ... oh, but then you'd still have to carry your shoes and chalk bag to the crag :cry:  . PLUS a chalk bag and shoes? I'd much rather just bring my prusiks and save weight on those fixed lines
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rockforlife
Nov 26, 2009, 2:08 AM
Post #35 of 132
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asandh wrote: tucsonalex wrote: or are bolted to avoid lugging a trad rack to a mostly sport area. Yep, well, duh, that pretty much gives you all the excuse you need ... my trad rack's too heavy, bolt some cracks for me ... :cry: Lets see ... Sport Climbers are ... Too lazy to carry a trad rack ... Too lazy to place their own draws ... Too lazy to rap off their anchors so they lower ... Worried about getting killed when they lower so they have a whole separate thread that whines about how dangerous it is ... Sport Climbers ... How 'bout we just chop all the lead bolts because they are just there for show anyway, and you fess up to what you're really doing ... Top Roping ... not that there's anything wrong with that. :roll: ... Then you could also have fixed ropes hanging from your fixed anchors ... oh, but then you'd still have to carry your shoes and chalk bag to the crag :cry:
Wait did it just get dark in here,
I feel all warm and fuzzy,
It's kind of like some one just through a blanket over me.....and every one else....
(This post was edited by rockforlife on Nov 26, 2009, 2:10 AM)
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randyb
Nov 26, 2009, 2:34 AM
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Rethinking the Ethics Colorado Springs |
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tomcat_ct
Nov 27, 2009, 12:09 AM
Post #37 of 132
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I was so lost reading yet another post about this ongoing trad vs sport thing until I saw the post where someone said to just TR those quality cracks.
Why on earth is everyone losing the point that it's all about the line and the route and not how you protect it?!
I have a different personal opinion about this subject.I mainly like face climbing(I live in Romania where almost all areas worth to climb are limestone and conglomerate...) but I like climbing long multipitch routes.
Single pitch sport routes make a lot of sense to me since I don't want to carry a rack to climb a single pitch.It's also not much of an adventure to climb one pitch anyway.But if I go out to do multipitch stuff I don't expect anybody to bolt 7-10-how many you want or like- pitches for me.And I also don't want anyone to take the adventure away by turning a classic climb in to a blot clipping session.
c22,you're absolutely right!TR is the simplest way of going after those climbs without a rack.
And anyway, I believe that everyone who likes climbing enough, will end up after a certain period of time with a huge rack, climbing multipitch trad climbs for the shear beauty and exposure of the lines and not for the grades, ethics or other crap that doesn't really matter when you're way run out up there.That's just how I see it-I go out to climb and that's it.Being a second or TR on a climb without facing a monster whipper while leading doesn't mean that you didn't get to experience the beauty of the rock and the moves.And that monster whipper is probably waiting for you just around the corner when you eventually tie back in to the sharp end.
(This post was edited by tomcat_ct on Nov 27, 2009, 12:12 AM)
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dugl33
Nov 27, 2009, 6:19 AM
Post #38 of 132
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p0bray01 wrote: However, I am gonna have to move into Trad to find good crack climbs?
Yes. You are.
Kind of like, if you want to try skydiving, you're gonna have to jump out of some planes.
Don't worry, though, placing your own pro is part of the fun, and a whole other world of possibilities open up once you figure it out.
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sp00ki
Nov 27, 2009, 9:42 PM
Post #39 of 132
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Zombie thread...
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wes_allen
Nov 28, 2009, 12:21 AM
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Dead man walking @ portrero might very well be the best 5.9 corner I have done. And it even had draws hanging on it already - jam, jam, clip. Jam, jam, clip for 100+ feet.
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guangzhou
Nov 30, 2009, 12:43 AM
Post #42 of 132
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America has it's fair share of bolted cracks. Even us trad climber who have spent more nights on big walls then most climbers here have spent days climbing have been known to bolt a crack under the right circumstances.
On the rigth side of the Gallery at Red Rocks, I remember a bolted crack that was covered in Chalk.
Who Needs Freinds, at Jackson Falls in Southern Il is a bolted crack.
personally, not in America, I bolted a few cracks in CHina where climbers can afford a rack, and I bolted a couple of cracks on the sea cliffs of Okinawa where the rock quality would hold gear. (& inch by 1/2 inch glue in bolts worked fine.)
I remember a "trad climber," new to the island condeming me for bolting the thing. he said I should have waited till I could climb hard enough to climb it on gear. I explained about the quality of rock, and he blew it off.
The route was 12b, and he couldn't climb the grade free, so he decided to aid it. He clipped two bolts on the face below, started aiding the crack on nuts and cams. About 30 ft into the crack, a piece pull through the rock like Swiss cheeses. He zippered every piece because the rock was to soft to hold more then body weight.
The bolt caught him and he never complain or questioned my bolts again. He even tried to repeat a couple of my non-bolted lines and found them to run-out and dangerous. I eventually rap bolted those so they would be climbed. Those routes are now very popular.
I've been on several routes in America that were completely bolted cracks.
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dylanbar
Nov 30, 2009, 2:47 AM
Post #43 of 132
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The sport park in Boulder tends to have a few bolted cracks but none of good quality.
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josiahdood
Dec 1, 2009, 10:08 AM
Post #44 of 132
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The Nose on El Cap has a bunch of bolts on it - is that a bolted crack climb?
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william.alan.swanson
Dec 1, 2009, 3:42 PM
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[quote "andrewbanandrew"]You could move to France.
I'm joking.
Sort of.[/quote]
Seriously, he's not joking. You want bolts, come to France.
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airscape
Jan 28, 2010, 12:03 PM
Post #46 of 132
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If you are at a sport crag and there are a few cracks there.
Say for instance 100 routes 10 of which are cracks.
Why not bolt the cracks?
Who is going to go to a sport crag with a full trad rack to climb those 10 routes? 99% of all the people going to that crag will only take a sport rack, so it only makes sense to bolt the cracks and actually have people get pleasure from them as opposed to letting them be unused until some idiot brings along trad gear once every 20 years.
Edit: I think the whole bolting cracks debate is fucking stupid.
(This post was edited by airscape on Jan 28, 2010, 12:09 PM)
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climbingtrash
Jan 28, 2010, 1:25 PM
Post #47 of 132
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airscape wrote: If you are at a sport crag and there are a few cracks there. Say for instance 100 routes 10 of which are cracks. Why not bolt the cracks? Who is going to go to a sport crag with a full trad rack to climb those 10 routes? 99% of all the people going to that crag will only take a sport rack, so it only makes sense to bolt the cracks and actually have people get pleasure from them as opposed to letting them be unused until some idiot brings along trad gear once every 20 years. Edit: I think the whole bolting cracks debate is fucking stupid.
So which side of the stupid argument are you on? I own a trad rack and a battery powered hilti. So I'm basically on the fence.
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airscape
Jan 28, 2010, 1:47 PM
Post #48 of 132
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I don't care if a crack is bolted or not.
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acorneau
Jan 28, 2010, 3:01 PM
Post #49 of 132
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airscape wrote: If you are at a sport crag and there are a few cracks there. Say for instance 100 routes 10 of which are cracks. Why not bolt the cracks? Who is going to go to a sport crag with a full trad rack to climb those 10 routes? 99% of all the people going to that crag will only take a sport rack, so it only makes sense to bolt the cracks and actually have people get pleasure from them as opposed to letting them be unused until some idiot brings along trad gear once every 20 years. Edit: I think the whole bolting cracks debate is fucking stupid.
There is nothing that says you can't have trad lines in a mostly-sport area.
Example: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is a great sport climbing area yet there are some trad lines left unbolted because they are easily protectable.
It's pretty simple: If you want to climb the trad lines at a given sport area then you better bring your rack. Duh!
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airscape
Jan 29, 2010, 6:12 AM
Post #50 of 132
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acorneau wrote: Example: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is a great sport climbing area yet there are some trad lines left unbolted because they are easily protectable. It's pretty simple: If you want to climb the trad lines at a given sport area then you better bring your rack. Duh!
If they where bolted you could still bring your trad rack.
It's almost as if a crack is some sort of VIP nightclub and you can't come in unless you have the right friends.
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