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A-Bowl
Feb 1, 2010, 12:00 AM
Post #101 of 132
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There are quite a few bolted cracks in Owen's River Gorge Ca... This is kinda excusable due to the brittle nature of the rock. Many placements could shatter rock around them and fail. One of my favorite cracks is there and fully bolted. Bolting cracks at most sport places is rediculous though... carrying and purchasing a rack big enough to climb single pitch cracks is so easy. 4 cams and nuts is cheap and weighs the same as a full rack of draws.
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angry
Feb 1, 2010, 12:00 AM
Post #102 of 132
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Motherfucker!!
(This post was edited by angry on Feb 1, 2010, 12:01 AM)
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budman
Feb 1, 2010, 12:01 AM
Post #103 of 132
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Sorry Dude but it was "Climbing is placing gear and leaving as little trace as possible". The later being as important as the prior.
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johnwesely
Feb 1, 2010, 12:17 AM
Post #104 of 132
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sbaclimber wrote: johnwesely wrote: camhead wrote: tehbillzor wrote: Johnwesly it is great that you have the ingenuity to purchase a rack, but every ones situation is different. My intent was not to be a whinny baby, but rather to communicate my point of view on the topic. I guess what I don't understand is why having bolts 2-3ft off of a crack would ruin it for a trad climber. Perhaps once I have done my fair share of trad climbs I will understand. I don't understand why they don't pave more backcountry hiking trails. Lots more people who are unable to walk on dirt and rocks would be able to hike on them, and if you don't like them, you can just still walk off to the side of the asphault. Actually, Imagine how sweet it would be to rollerblade to the crag. It is! .....as long as you don't have a full trad rack with you  There is a very small boulder / toprope chunk of rock close to my old community college, and right on a nice paved bike/blade-way. I skated there a couple times to go climbing. I was a fun way to warm up 
We have proof that it is awesome.
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jt512
Feb 1, 2010, 12:24 AM
Post #105 of 132
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budman wrote: Sorry Dude but it was "Climbing is placing gear and leaving as little trace as possible". The later being as important as the prior.
Doesn't change my point.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Feb 1, 2010, 12:24 AM)
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budman
Feb 1, 2010, 12:34 AM
Post #106 of 132
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And that is? I like to climb with as little trace as possible where you would rather leave your mark on the world (such as a bolt). or am I just reading toooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much into it.
(This post was edited by budman on Feb 1, 2010, 12:40 AM)
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jt512
Feb 1, 2010, 1:02 AM
Post #107 of 132
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budman wrote: And that is?
You're a gearhead.
Jay
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airscape
Feb 1, 2010, 6:30 AM
Post #108 of 132
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budman wrote: And that is? I like to climb with as little trace as possible where you would rather leave your mark on the world (such as a bolt). or am I just reading toooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much into it.
Little trace??
Yah I love those sling garbage heaps above trad routes.
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budman
Feb 1, 2010, 1:15 PM
Post #109 of 132
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Yes I am. I have at least a dozen quickdraws on my rack.
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budman
Feb 1, 2010, 1:17 PM
Post #110 of 132
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Always carry a knife and fresh webbing to help clean up as well as rebolt bad anchors around home.
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airscape
Feb 1, 2010, 1:33 PM
Post #111 of 132
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budman wrote: Always carry a knife and fresh webbing to help clean up as well as rebolt bad anchors around home.
I always carry a knive in case I have to choose between my dad or sis...
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budman
Feb 1, 2010, 1:37 PM
Post #112 of 132
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Good for you, my Dad is dead and my Sis don't climb. I surely don't have your problem.
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sbaclimber
Feb 1, 2010, 1:48 PM
Post #113 of 132
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airscape wrote: budman wrote: Always carry a knife and fresh webbing to help clean up as well as rebolt bad anchors around home. I always carry a knive in case I have to choose between my dad or sis... 
Edit, what a horrible horrible horrible movie.....
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Feb 1, 2010, 1:49 PM)
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tehbillzor
Feb 1, 2010, 2:03 PM
Post #114 of 132
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airscape wrote: budman wrote: Always carry a knife and fresh webbing to help clean up as well as rebolt bad anchors around home. I always carry a knive in case I have to choose between my dad or sis...
Oh, I thought the knife was to cut the"bad guy" off the rope and watch him fall into a hole in the earth.
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airscape
Feb 1, 2010, 2:13 PM
Post #116 of 132
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budman wrote: Good for you, my Dad is dead and my Sis don't climb. I surely don't have your problem.
Dude... Who pissed on your battery?
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budman
Feb 1, 2010, 2:41 PM
Post #118 of 132
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Knew right where it came and it went right over your head. It's been fun.
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tehbillzor
Feb 1, 2010, 4:06 PM
Post #119 of 132
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yes i understood the reference, but i was referring to the end of the same movie when Montgomery wick also cut the rope...
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I_do
Feb 1, 2010, 5:41 PM
Post #120 of 132
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budman wrote: I like the question as I believe it is asked in honesty. The answer is a bit tongue in cheek. A trad crack is just that. A bolted crack is a mere layback with no jamming skills what so ever required for the most part. If you can jam then your probably going to want to climb it straight in and that is perfect for placing gear. For me climbing is placing gear and leaving as little trace as possible. I'm not climbing hard and it is a joke to think I ever did but it just has never been ALL about the numbers but more the style. I clip bolts with delight when I come across them on run out terrain, slabs (they scare the shit out of me but I climb them because I like getting better at what scares me), great face climbs, and bolts ladders on aid climbs, oh yes and those big 1/2 inchers when I'm pump at the anchor. Bolts make me feel safe when climbing but it's leaving that comfort zone that draws me to climbing in general. If you want to climb cracks without bolts give me a call as there are many where I live.
Ever go to any popular trad crags?
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sbaclimber
Feb 1, 2010, 7:06 PM
Post #121 of 132
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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I_do wrote: budman wrote: I like the question as I believe it is asked in honesty. The answer is a bit tongue in cheek. A trad crack is just that. A bolted crack is a mere layback with no jamming skills what so ever required for the most part. If you can jam then your probably going to want to climb it straight in and that is perfect for placing gear. For me climbing is placing gear and leaving as little trace as possible. I'm not climbing hard and it is a joke to think I ever did but it just has never been ALL about the numbers but more the style. I clip bolts with delight when I come across them on run out terrain, slabs (they scare the shit out of me but I climb them because I like getting better at what scares me), great face climbs, and bolts ladders on aid climbs, oh yes and those big 1/2 inchers when I'm pump at the anchor. Bolts make me feel safe when climbing but it's leaving that comfort zone that draws me to climbing in general. If you want to climb cracks without bolts give me a call as there are many where I live. Ever go to any popular trad crags?
....I missed something
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dynosore
Feb 1, 2010, 7:18 PM
Post #122 of 132
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Registered: Jul 29, 2004
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tehbillzor wrote: What about bolting cracks for people who simply cant afford a trad rack.
Yeah, and while we're at it, I could use someone to carry me up 5.12 trad, I'm simply too old, injured, and busy to train to climb at that level. How about you? I'll let you use my rack.
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I_do
Feb 1, 2010, 7:27 PM
Post #123 of 132
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Registered: Mar 2, 2008
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sbaclimber wrote: I_do wrote: budman wrote: I like the question as I believe it is asked in honesty. The answer is a bit tongue in cheek. A trad crack is just that. A bolted crack is a mere layback with no jamming skills what so ever required for the most part. If you can jam then your probably going to want to climb it straight in and that is perfect for placing gear. For me climbing is placing gear and leaving as little trace as possible. I'm not climbing hard and it is a joke to think I ever did but it just has never been ALL about the numbers but more the style. I clip bolts with delight when I come across them on run out terrain, slabs (they scare the shit out of me but I climb them because I like getting better at what scares me), great face climbs, and bolts ladders on aid climbs, oh yes and those big 1/2 inchers when I'm pump at the anchor. Bolts make me feel safe when climbing but it's leaving that comfort zone that draws me to climbing in general. If you want to climb cracks without bolts give me a call as there are many where I live. Ever go to any popular trad crags? Hunh? ....I missed something
Eeuhhm I was definetaly very unclear entschuldigung.
What I meant to say was this, of al the effects climbing has on it's surroundings bolts are the least of our worries. Having lots of people walk around in "nature" has far more influence on the ecosystem then bolts which have close to 0 impact on the surrounding wildlife. I really feel that the tradsters who say they don't want to leave a trace need to stay at home or acknowledge their presence in the crag has a far greater effect on their surroundings then bolts will ever have.
Cheers
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sbaclimber
Feb 1, 2010, 7:31 PM
Post #124 of 132
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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I_do wrote: sbaclimber wrote: I_do wrote: budman wrote: I like the question as I believe it is asked in honesty. The answer is a bit tongue in cheek. A trad crack is just that. A bolted crack is a mere layback with no jamming skills what so ever required for the most part. If you can jam then your probably going to want to climb it straight in and that is perfect for placing gear. For me climbing is placing gear and leaving as little trace as possible. I'm not climbing hard and it is a joke to think I ever did but it just has never been ALL about the numbers but more the style. I clip bolts with delight when I come across them on run out terrain, slabs (they scare the shit out of me but I climb them because I like getting better at what scares me), great face climbs, and bolts ladders on aid climbs, oh yes and those big 1/2 inchers when I'm pump at the anchor. Bolts make me feel safe when climbing but it's leaving that comfort zone that draws me to climbing in general. If you want to climb cracks without bolts give me a call as there are many where I live. Ever go to any popular trad crags? Hunh? ....I missed something Eeuhhm I was definetaly very unclear entschuldigung. What I meant to say was this, of al the effects climbing has on it's surroundings bolts are the least of our worries. Having lots of people walk around in "nature" has far more influence on the ecosystem then bolts which have close to 0 impact on the surrounding wildlife. I really feel that the tradsters who say they don't want to leave a trace need to stay at home or acknowledge their presence in the crag has a far greater effect on their surroundings then bolts will ever have. Cheers 
If the bolting is done properly, you do have a point....
Edit, PS, no need to excuse yourself in german....it isn't my mother-tongue anyway...
(and you are mostly likely waaaaaaayyyyy better at writing it than I)
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Feb 1, 2010, 7:33 PM)
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tehbillzor
Feb 1, 2010, 7:38 PM
Post #125 of 132
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Registered: Jan 26, 2010
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In reply to: Yeah, and while we're at it, I could use someone to carry me up 5.12 trad, I'm simply too old, injured, and busy to train to climb at that level. How about you? I'll let you use my rack.
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