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patto
Jun 18, 2010, 1:08 AM
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It is conceivable that the rope could twist into the carabiners and get unclipped. That is what I would be more worried about. But it is still unlikely. Personlly I prefer 1 locker over two non lockers.
For extra paranoia 2 lockers.
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edge
Jun 18, 2010, 1:10 AM
Post #52 of 89
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sp00ki wrote: caughtinside wrote: sp00ki wrote: 1) if you have a quickdraw and you have a locker, you also easily have a quickdraw with a locker on it. Not having at least one locker at a sport crag is virtually unheard of. Really? The only locker I generally take sport climbing is my belay locker. I haven't used a locker on a sport climb/sport anchor in 8 years. You REALLY only have one locker in your bag when you climb? I always keep four: two for cleaning, one for belaying, one just in case. But even if you only had one, isn't it likely that your partner will have at least one too? It doesn't really seem excessive once you acknowledge that they last a really long time.
For sp0rt climbing?
I can't think of an instance where I have racked up for a day of sp0rt climbing and brought more than one locking biner. And 9 times out of ten it is reserved for the anchor on the ground.
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caughtinside
Jun 18, 2010, 1:11 AM
Post #53 of 89
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patto wrote: It is conceivable that the rope could twist into the carabiners and get unclipped. That is what I would be more worried about. But it is still unlikely.
Unlikely indeed. I've always observed rope twists getting pushed down the rope to the climber's knot in a TR with a twisted rope.
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patto
Jun 18, 2010, 1:24 AM
Post #54 of 89
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caughtinside wrote: Unlikely indeed. I've always observed rope twists getting pushed down the rope to the climber's knot in a TR with a twisted rope.
I was more talking about the twisted pair. Here the twists commonly reside at the top biners. But yes unlikely.
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caughtinside
Jun 18, 2010, 1:26 AM
Post #55 of 89
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patto wrote: caughtinside wrote: Unlikely indeed. I've always observed rope twists getting pushed down the rope to the climber's knot in a TR with a twisted rope. I was more talking about the twisted pair. Here the twists commonly reside at the top biners. But yes unlikely.
I don't know what you mean? Twisted pair? Twists commonly reside at the top biner?
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moose_droppings
Jun 18, 2010, 4:15 AM
Post #57 of 89
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j_ung wrote: j_ung wrote: Well, that's warning enough for me. I'm not climbing with anybody above 300 lbs. I just checked out the force calculator. Let's make that 327 lbs.
That's good news, my wife can have that extra large piece of pie and ice cream every night.
*runs and hides from wife*
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patto
Jun 18, 2010, 4:43 AM
Post #58 of 89
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caughtinside wrote: patto wrote: caughtinside wrote: Unlikely indeed. I've always observed rope twists getting pushed down the rope to the climber's knot in a TR with a twisted rope. I was more talking about the twisted pair. Here the twists commonly reside at the top biners. But yes unlikely. I don't know what you mean? Twisted pair? Twists commonly reside at the top biner?
Pair meaning two. Two ropes that are twisted. It is what can occur when belayer and climber rotate around each other.
Reside meaning present. Twists are often present and buched at top biner.
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caughtinside
Jun 18, 2010, 4:53 AM
Post #59 of 89
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patto wrote: caughtinside wrote: patto wrote: caughtinside wrote: Unlikely indeed. I've always observed rope twists getting pushed down the rope to the climber's knot in a TR with a twisted rope. I was more talking about the twisted pair. Here the twists commonly reside at the top biners. But yes unlikely. I don't know what you mean? Twisted pair? Twists commonly reside at the top biner? Pair meaning two. Two ropes that are twisted. It is what can occur when belayer and climber rotate around each other. Reside meaning present. Twists are often present and buched at top biner.
And you'd rather have a single locker in that situation?
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sittingduck
Jun 18, 2010, 5:40 AM
Post #60 of 89
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caughtinside wrote: Really? The only locker I generally take sport climbing is my belay locker. I haven't used a locker on a sport climb/sport anchor in 8 years.
In reply to: Then I wised up, and just put two draws on every anchor. I stopped carrying the extra lockers because they were unnecessary, and now they live at the bottom of the gear bin. My bag is usually full of trad gear, and gets dumped all out when I throw in the quickdraws.
Do all the anchors where you climb have horizontally aligned bolts?
How would you rig a top-rope anchor from two vertically aligned bolts, using two quick-draws?
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Alphaboth
Jun 18, 2010, 7:20 AM
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i think a locker is a good idea, if you have it use it. I've toproped on a sketchy place hex to two opposing lockers and whenever i'm putting someone else's life on the line, two lockers opposing is the only way i go.
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 18, 2010, 10:45 AM
Post #62 of 89
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On a steep sport climb that only see a few laps before moveing on to next climb 2 draws fine. Less than overhanging with a group use and some pendulums use lockers.
With kids traversing all over the place the biners getting dragged back and forth there is a good chance of gates opening.
Just you and your palls doing a few loops on steep stuff a few draws perfect.
Birthday party that you are responsible for = 4 lockers and helmets for belayer and climber.
Overkill helps insure that you NEVER have to explain to mom why her kid is not coming home.
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dingus
Jun 18, 2010, 11:54 AM
Post #63 of 89
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tradmanclimbs wrote: On a steep sport climb that only see a few laps before moveing on to next climb 2 draws fine. Less than overhanging with a group use and some pendulums use lockers. With kids traversing all over the place the biners getting dragged back and forth there is a good chance of gates opening. Just you and your palls doing a few loops on steep stuff a few draws perfect. Birthday party that you are responsible for = 4 lockers and helmets for belayer and climber. Overkill helps insure that you NEVER have to explain to mom why her kid is not coming home.
There you go.
DMT
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Jun 18, 2010, 3:11 PM
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jt512 wrote: ptlong wrote: Here's a clip from a respected how-to book from the early 1980s: [img]http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/1001/60967083.jpg[/img] Is that image from Michael Loughman's book? That book was my bible when I was learning, and Michael's wife was kinda hot in a sort of Daisy-Duke-meets-Camp-4 way. Jay
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caughtinside
Jun 18, 2010, 3:24 PM
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sittingduck wrote: caughtinside wrote: Really? The only locker I generally take sport climbing is my belay locker. I haven't used a locker on a sport climb/sport anchor in 8 years. In reply to: Then I wised up, and just put two draws on every anchor. I stopped carrying the extra lockers because they were unnecessary, and now they live at the bottom of the gear bin. My bag is usually full of trad gear, and gets dumped all out when I throw in the quickdraws. Do all the anchors where you climb have horizontally aligned bolts? How would you rig a top-rope anchor from two vertically aligned bolts, using two quick-draws?
vertically aligned anchors on sport routes here are rare; I think I have only seen 1. I rigged it by putting a short bone low and a longer bone high, and it was pretty close to equalized.
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dingus
Jun 18, 2010, 3:27 PM
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Yup, that's her and unchanged, not a day older. Its uncanny!
DMT
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caughtinside
Jun 18, 2010, 3:42 PM
Post #68 of 89
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dingus wrote: caughtinside wrote: vertically aligned anchors on sport routes here are rare; I think I have only seen 1. I rigged it by putting a short bone low and a longer bone high, and it was pretty close to equalized. Its how we roll! [IMG]http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/5209/img4571mediumjg3.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/4821/img4572mediumyw1.jpg[/IMG] A guilty look if ever I saw one! [IMG]http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/9146/img4575mediumjo4.jpg[/IMG] Task complete [IMG]http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/5784/img4582mediumxy3.jpg[/IMG] Moment of truth  They are the way to go, imo. Replaceable quick link on the end of each bolt, hanging side by side. Top rope through the anchor ALL YOU WANT. Its designed that way. Cheap, too. DMT
THat's a good setup you have there. Easy to set up a TR on that with two draws.
The only change I'd make is to put old biners on instead of quicklinks. just clip in, toprope away.
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jt512
Jun 18, 2010, 3:58 PM
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dingus wrote: Yup, that's her and unchanged, not a day older. Its uncanny!
You sure you weren't dreaming?
Jay
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dingus
Jun 18, 2010, 5:06 PM
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I'm emailing the guy she was with, to make arrangements to climb this Saturday. It was no dream... he always referred to her as Cover Girl #1 (as he climbed frequently with a R&I cover girl as well, the dawg!)
DMT
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caughtinside
Jun 18, 2010, 6:03 PM
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Mr. Smooth?
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dingus
Jun 18, 2010, 6:11 PM
Post #72 of 89
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Aye. Spot on.
DMT
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caughtinside
Jun 18, 2010, 6:12 PM
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dingus wrote: Aye. Spot on. DMT
That dirty pimp! He's always climbing with the babes.
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dingus
Jun 18, 2010, 6:21 PM
Post #74 of 89
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caughtinside wrote: dingus wrote: Aye. Spot on. DMT That dirty pimp! He's always climbing with the babes.
Yes he is, he IS a dirty pimp!
DMT
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kachoong
Jun 18, 2010, 6:43 PM
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csproul wrote: kjaking wrote: bill413 wrote: As for using lockers at the top of sport climbs - if all you will be doing is TR, OK. However, if you will occaisionally be pulling the rope for someone else to lead up, having a locked biner at your anchor is a pain. Give me two non-lockers there. I still don't get how a locker is a pain. Its the same thing, it just doesn't open unless you want it to. Or do we need to argue about what a locker is? Picture this; The first leader climbs the route and the rope is put through two locked lockers at the top of a route for several people to TR. Now, you pull it because you have decided to lead the route. You lead the climb (imagine it's a hard climb) and get to the anchors, where you can barely hang on to clip the anchors. Only now, you have to deal with two locked biners instead of just clipping the anchors. Get it now?
cleethree wrote: kjaking wrote: I still don't get how a locker is a pain. Its the same thing, it just doesn't open unless you want it to. Or do we need to argue about what a locker is? Imagine you lead the route and put 2 draws with lockers at the anchors and lock them. Then pull the rope and have someone else lead the climb. That climber will get to the final 2 draws and have to unscrew the gates - that's a pain. Also, for me at least, clipping lockers (even unlocked) require much more effort than a wire gate or bent gate biner.
In this situation, which you both describe, wouldn't it be easier for the climber to clip another draw to the anchor before dealing with the lockers? Most anchors I've seen have adequate room for a third draw.
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