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jakedatc
Jan 6, 2011, 5:50 AM
Post #226 of 285
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point? check the gear you clip and replace it if it is needed.
gumby fucking noob
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majid_sabet
Jan 6, 2011, 7:22 AM
Post #227 of 285
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jakedatc wrote: point? check the gear you clip and replace it if it is needed. gumby fucking noob
whos call who a n00b ?
listen you weak hot dog , when you were little sucking milkee off your mama , I was climbing
you are still sucking some other type of milk and I am still climbing
here add some sugar and do not bite
he may not like it
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jan 6, 2011, 5:46 PM)
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jakedatc
Jan 6, 2011, 2:02 PM
Post #228 of 285
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majid_sabet wrote: jakedatc wrote: point? check the gear you clip and replace it if it is needed. gumby fucking noob whos call who a n00b ? listen you weak hot dog , when you were little sucking mike off your mama , I was climbing you are still sucking some other type of milk and I am still climbing here add some sugar and do not bite he may not like it
you're the one who doesn't understand how to deal with fixed gear.
i was on 2 routes this summer where i didn't like the wear on a biner and swapped it out with another one. wow.. that was hard. same should have been done on the route at the Red.
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sungam
Jan 6, 2011, 2:10 PM
Post #229 of 285
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jakedatc wrote: i was on 2 routes this summer where i didn't like the wear on a biner and swapped it out with another one. wow.. that was hard. same should have been done on the route at the Red.
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camhead
Jan 6, 2011, 2:13 PM
Post #230 of 285
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Well, there you have it. One easily preventable freak incident obviously invalidates the presence of thousands of fixed draws across the world.
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jakedatc
Jan 6, 2011, 2:15 PM
Post #231 of 285
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you mean like this one that i took off the 3rd bolt of Orangahang?
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justroberto
Jan 6, 2011, 2:18 PM
Post #232 of 285
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But seriously - where were those pics from?
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camhead
Jan 6, 2011, 2:23 PM
Post #233 of 285
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majid_sabet wrote: whos call who a n00b ? listen you weak hot dog , when you were little sucking mike off your mama , I was climbing
Who's Mike?
Oh, and the incident at the Red was a case of someone falling at the first bolt. For this type of accident to happen again, you would have to 1) not check the biner 2) have the biner be worn, and 3) fall at the first bolt.
n other words, there are easy things to do in order to insure against a very unlikely occurrence, and the whole thing is SO freak and unlikely that we really can't draw any large conclusions from it. Apart from the conclusion that Majid is an idiot.
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sungam
Jan 6, 2011, 2:29 PM
Post #234 of 285
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worst switcharoo in my life but I still chuckeled.
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chadnsc
Jan 6, 2011, 3:47 PM
Post #236 of 285
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camhead wrote: justroberto wrote: But seriously - where were those pics from? I think it's a crag in Minnesota. Can't remember what it's called, but it's supposed to be really good. Unfortunately, it is a state and/or local park that does not allow climbing on weekends, so pretty much only twin cities locals can go there.
I assume you're talking about Willow River? If so your information about not allowing climbing on the weekends is incorrect. Were by chance did you hear this rumor?
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spikeddem
Jan 6, 2011, 3:51 PM
Post #237 of 285
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justroberto wrote: spikeddem wrote: As for steep? No project draws allowed here: [image]http://mountainproject.com/images/15/85/106261585_large_ebdba3.jpg[/image] [image]http://mountainproject.com/images/9/39/106240939_large_fe2567.jpg[/image] Whoa. where is that? I'm totally going to stick-clip my way up that line to yoink the two manky leaver biners on the adjacent route.
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camhead
Jan 6, 2011, 3:53 PM
Post #238 of 285
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chadnsc wrote: camhead wrote: justroberto wrote: But seriously - where were those pics from? I think it's a crag in Minnesota. Can't remember what it's called, but it's supposed to be really good. Unfortunately, it is a state and/or local park that does not allow climbing on weekends, so pretty much only twin cities locals can go there. I assume you're talking about Willow River? If so your information about not allowing climbing on the weekends is incorrect. Were by chance did you hear this rumor?
Yeah, I did not know the name, but mountainproject's section on Willow River is definitely the one.
It says "Climbing is allowed on weekdays when the park is open. Climbing is prohibited on Friday and Sunday after 12 noon, and climbing is not allowed at all on Saturday."
http://mountainproject.com/...state_park/105795588
Is that still in effect?
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chadnsc
Jan 6, 2011, 3:58 PM
Post #239 of 285
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Hmmm, that is odd and new news to me!
I don't remember those restritions being in place this past summer but if MP is showing that the park doesn't want climbing on the weekends then it must be true.
I learn somthing new every day!
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spikeddem
Jan 6, 2011, 3:59 PM
Post #240 of 285
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chadnsc wrote: camhead wrote: justroberto wrote: But seriously - where were those pics from? I think it's a crag in Minnesota. Can't remember what it's called, but it's supposed to be really good. Unfortunately, it is a state and/or local park that does not allow climbing on weekends, so pretty much only twin cities locals can go there. I assume you're talking about Willow River? If so your information about not allowing climbing on the weekends is incorrect. Were by chance did you hear this rumor?
It's essentially the correct. No climbing on Saturdays, and no climbing after noon on Sundays. I'd say it's safe to say that camheads larger conclusion (MN/WI locals only) is correct.
MP.com link There's only about 30 routes there (many are link-ups, see this photo), one-third of which are 5.13 or harder. There are only five routes less than 5.12, so you gotta be strong. I get spanked when I go there, but it's a very unique place for the midwest, and the climbing is challenging so I enjoy it.
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spikeddem
Jan 6, 2011, 4:00 PM
Post #241 of 285
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Wow, I got GU'd really hardcore.
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spikeddem
Jan 6, 2011, 4:04 PM
Post #242 of 285
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camhead wrote: It says "Climbing is allowed on weekdays when the park is open. Climbing is prohibited on Friday and Sunday after 12 noon, and climbing is not allowed at all on Saturday." http://mountainproject.com/...state_park/105795588 Is that still in effect?
Yes, it's been the case since the MN/WI guidebook came out (2000) at least. Doesn't seem to show any signs of changing. The park is very much a hiker/tourist/cross-country skier place first, and climbing crag fifth/sixth, as far as rangers are concerned. There is an overlook across the falls, which places the cliff directly behind the river/falls. I guess the rangers do not want people's view of the river/cliff to have climbers in it. This is also the purpose (as far as I can tell) for not allowing project draws.
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j_ung
Jan 6, 2011, 5:32 PM
Post #243 of 285
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Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to remove such a draw from any route in the world, even if I didn't have the gear necessary to replace it. However, the draw in the link you posted WAS NOT A PROJECT DRAW. Yet again you have made a point that is not in dispute, and have done so as though you were Indiana Jones shooting the sword guy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkLXdLgOybE
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majid_sabet
Jan 6, 2011, 5:41 PM
Post #244 of 285
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In reply to: you're the one who doesn't understand how to deal with fixed gear. i was on 2 routes this summer where i didn't like the wear on a biner and swapped it out with another one. wow.. that was hard. same should have been done on the route at the Red.
Are you expecting me to climb and do the weekly maintenance on your route?
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majid_sabet
Jan 6, 2011, 5:45 PM
Post #245 of 285
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j_ung wrote: Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to remove such a draw from any route in the world, even if I didn't have the gear necessary to replace it. However, the draw in the link you posted WAS NOT A PROJECT DRAW. Yet again you have made a point that is not in dispute, and have done so as though you were Indiana Jones shooting the sword guy. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkLXdLgOybE
As a sworn climber ,its our duty to clean dangerous or worn fixed equipment and there are no argument there but are we going to be lucky in detecting every one of these ?
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cracklover
Jan 6, 2011, 5:54 PM
Post #246 of 285
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You're right, excellent post. But did you notice...
camhead wrote: Ok, Chris Kalous over on mountainproject posted what should be the definitive statement on this whole thing. Quoted in full: In reply to: <snip> Leaving unsightly pre-placed gear or ropes up at a known trad area: asshole <snip>
G
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jakedatc
Jan 6, 2011, 5:58 PM
Post #247 of 285
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majid_sabet wrote: In reply to: you're the one who doesn't understand how to deal with fixed gear. i was on 2 routes this summer where i didn't like the wear on a biner and swapped it out with another one. wow.. that was hard. same should have been done on the route at the Red. Are you expecting me to climb and do the weekly maintenance on your route?
I don't know anyone who gets on a route with fixed draws that doesn't bring at least one of their own draws with them in case: a biner looks like crap, a draw is missing for some reason, an extra bolt has been placed, for clipping into while working the route.
maybe if you knew about climbing instead of just dead people you would understand. but clearly you don't so please quit now.
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sp115
Jan 6, 2011, 6:03 PM
Post #248 of 285
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majid_sabet wrote: j_ung wrote: Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to remove such a draw from any route in the world, even if I didn't have the gear necessary to replace it. However, the draw in the link you posted WAS NOT A PROJECT DRAW. Yet again you have made a point that is not in dispute, and have done so as though you were Indiana Jones shooting the sword guy. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkLXdLgOybEAs a sworn climber ,its our duty to clean dangerous or worn fixed equipment and there are no argument there but are we going to be lucky in detecting every one of these ?
Then replace it with something of your own. Same thing I would do while trad climbing if I came across a piece of fixed gear, a rusty piton, or a shitty bolt. In fact it happens all the time.
You make it sound like someone has littered the cliff with booby-traps and forced you at gun-point to climb.
(This post was edited by sp115 on Jan 6, 2011, 6:04 PM)
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j_ung
Jan 6, 2011, 6:05 PM
Post #249 of 285
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majid_sabet wrote: j_ung wrote: Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to remove such a draw from any route in the world, even if I didn't have the gear necessary to replace it. However, the draw in the link you posted WAS NOT A PROJECT DRAW. Yet again you have made a point that is not in dispute, and have done so as though you were Indiana Jones shooting the sword guy. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkLXdLgOybEAs a sworn climber ,its our duty to clean dangerous or worn fixed equipment and there are no argument there but are we going to be lucky in detecting every one of these ?
Project draws are by definition temporary. Nobody is arguing that worn fixed gear (which is by definition not temporary) shouldn't be removed.
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camhead
Jan 6, 2011, 6:10 PM
Post #250 of 285
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cracklover wrote: You're right, excellent post. But did you notice... camhead wrote: Ok, Chris Kalous over on mountainproject posted what should be the definitive statement on this whole thing. Quoted in full: In reply to: <snip> Leaving unsightly pre-placed gear or ropes up at a known trad area: asshole <snip> G
I definitely noticed that. I'm the asshole!
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