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crazy_fingers84


Dec 29, 2010, 9:27 PM
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Draw Thief Caught
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Here is a video of a draw thief being caught in the act at Smith Rock.

http://www.vimeo.com/18267416

Discuss...


coastal_climber


Dec 29, 2010, 9:50 PM
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Re: [crazy_fingers84] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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He looks so out of place at a crag


adam14113


Dec 29, 2010, 9:53 PM
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Re: [crazy_fingers84] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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I wouldn't have been as nice as those guys


majid_sabet


Dec 29, 2010, 9:59 PM
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Re: [crazy_fingers84] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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if I see one fixed on any wall, I will take it and there is not a dam thing you can do about it.


bill413


Dec 29, 2010, 10:22 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
if I see one fixed on any wall, I will take it and there is not a dam thing you can do about it.


bill413


Dec 29, 2010, 10:23 PM
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Re: [adam14113] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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adam14113 wrote:
I wouldn't have been as nice as those guys

I was amazed at how civil they were to him. And, at the thief's unconcern about theft.


adam14113


Dec 29, 2010, 10:27 PM
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In reply to:
at the thief's unconcern about theft

no kidding, I heard gingers have no soul


majid_sabet


Dec 29, 2010, 10:28 PM
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Re: [bill413] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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bill413 wrote:
adam14113 wrote:
I wouldn't have been as nice as those guys

I was amazed at how civil they were to him. And, at the thief's unconcern about theft.

taking a draw is not against law. in fact it is against the law to leave pieces on the wall and I do not understand why lazy sport climbers have to leave their unsafe draws on every wall.loose some of those fat pounds out of your love handles and carry six freaking draws on your harness and clip and clean it after you are done.And those draws are unsafe cause you do not know how many people have taken a fall on them and one of these days, one will break and kills a climber.


Gmburns2000


Dec 29, 2010, 10:55 PM
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Re: [crazy_fingers84] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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wow, it's OK to take draws in the Springs!!! I know where my new rack is coming from now!








Tongue


kovacs69


Dec 29, 2010, 10:57 PM
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Re: [crazy_fingers84] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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Way too nice to the guy!!!

JB


sp115


Dec 29, 2010, 11:00 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
adam14113 wrote:
I wouldn't have been as nice as those guys

I was amazed at how civil they were to him. And, at the thief's unconcern about theft.

taking a draw is not against law. in fact it is against the law to leave pieces on the wall and I do not understand why lazy sport climbers have to leave their unsafe draws on every wall.loose some of those fat pounds out of your love handles and carry six freaking draws on your harness and clip and clean it after you are done.And those draws are unsafe cause you do not know how many people have taken a fall on them and one of these days, one will break and kills a climber.

So by that logic if you park your car (or yak, in your case), illegally, I can take it?


coastal_climber


Dec 29, 2010, 11:02 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
adam14113 wrote:
I wouldn't have been as nice as those guys

I was amazed at how civil they were to him. And, at the thief's unconcern about theft.

taking a draw is not against law. in fact it is against the law to leave pieces on the wall and I do not understand why lazy sport climbers have to leave their unsafe draws on every wall.loose some of those fat pounds out of your love handles and carry six freaking draws on your harness and clip and clean it after you are done.And those draws are unsafe cause you do not know how many people have taken a fall on them and one of these days, one will break and kills a climber.


Your just saying the same shit you did on supertopo


kovacs69


Dec 29, 2010, 11:12 PM
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Re: [coastal_climber] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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coastal_climber wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
adam14113 wrote:
I wouldn't have been as nice as those guys

I was amazed at how civil they were to him. And, at the thief's unconcern about theft.

taking a draw is not against law. in fact it is against the law to leave pieces on the wall and I do not understand why lazy sport climbers have to leave their unsafe draws on every wall.loose some of those fat pounds out of your love handles and carry six freaking draws on your harness and clip and clean it after you are done.And those draws are unsafe cause you do not know how many people have taken a fall on them and one of these days, one will break and kills a climber.


Your just saying the same shit you did on supertopo

Well at least he hasn't drawn us a picture yet...

JB


majid_sabet


Dec 29, 2010, 11:17 PM
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Re: [sp115] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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sp115 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
adam14113 wrote:
I wouldn't have been as nice as those guys

I was amazed at how civil they were to him. And, at the thief's unconcern about theft.

taking a draw is not against law. in fact it is against the law to leave pieces on the wall and I do not understand why lazy sport climbers have to leave their unsafe draws on every wall.loose some of those fat pounds out of your love handles and carry six freaking draws on your harness and clip and clean it after you are done.And those draws are unsafe cause you do not know how many people have taken a fall on them and one of these days, one will break and kills a climber.

So by that logic if you park your car (or yak, in your case), illegally, I can take it?

read the congress wilderness act (1960s) .


leapinlizard


Dec 29, 2010, 11:18 PM
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Re: [sp115] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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sp115 wrote:

So by that logic if you park your car (or yak, in your case), illegally, I can take it?

If it sits there long enough you can. Salvage Title. Got a nice little 40mpg car that way once.


majid_sabet


Dec 29, 2010, 11:20 PM
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Re: [coastal_climber] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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coastal_climber wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
adam14113 wrote:
I wouldn't have been as nice as those guys

I was amazed at how civil they were to him. And, at the thief's unconcern about theft.

taking a draw is not against law. in fact it is against the law to leave pieces on the wall and I do not understand why lazy sport climbers have to leave their unsafe draws on every wall.loose some of those fat pounds out of your love handles and carry six freaking draws on your harness and clip and clean it after you are done.And those draws are unsafe cause you do not know how many people have taken a fall on them and one of these days, one will break and kills a climber.


Your just saying the same shit you did on supertopo

I never talked about this on ST cause those guys know the law .


gosharks


Dec 29, 2010, 11:39 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
sp115 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
adam14113 wrote:
I wouldn't have been as nice as those guys

I was amazed at how civil they were to him. And, at the thief's unconcern about theft.

taking a draw is not against law. in fact it is against the law to leave pieces on the wall and I do not understand why lazy sport climbers have to leave their unsafe draws on every wall.loose some of those fat pounds out of your love handles and carry six freaking draws on your harness and clip and clean it after you are done.And those draws are unsafe cause you do not know how many people have taken a fall on them and one of these days, one will break and kills a climber.

So by that logic if you park your car (or yak, in your case), illegally, I can take it?

read the congress wilderness act (1960s) .

Since when is Smith Rock a wilderness?


sp115


Dec 29, 2010, 11:43 PM
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leapinlizard wrote:
sp115 wrote:

So by that logic if you park your car (or yak, in your case), illegally, I can take it?

If it sits there long enough you can. Salvage Title. Got a nice little 40mpg car that way once.

They weren't abandoned, they were on a route that was actively being worked on. The owners of the draws were known, they were safe to climb on. The ethics of the area dictate that leaving draws is an acceptable practice.

The world is a better place with people like the ones who found him handling the situation calmly. But I still wish he left wearing nothing but his underwear.


moose_droppings


Dec 29, 2010, 11:51 PM
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Should of known he was a thief, he racks his draws gates out.


LaughLaugh


John5


Dec 30, 2010, 12:42 AM
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should of cut his beard and made him eat it


bearbreeder


Dec 30, 2010, 2:36 AM
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majid_sabet wrote:

taking a draw is not against law. in fact it is against the law to leave pieces on the wall and I do not understand why lazy sport climbers have to leave their unsafe draws on every wall.loose some of those fat pounds out of your love handles and carry six freaking draws on your harness and clip and clean it after you are done.And those draws are unsafe cause you do not know how many people have taken a fall on them and one of these days, one will break and kills a climber.

mmmmm ... come do that at squish mista majid ... we canucks are REAL nice to people from whateverstan yr from

we wont do a thing to you .. really

well just belay you on that 5.7 route you can barely do halfway and leave ya hanging for one of our cute cudly squishy bears as a pinata

hes never hurt you ... honest ... he just wants to hug you for taking his draws ... lol




crazy_fingers84


Dec 30, 2010, 2:52 AM
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majid_sabet wrote:
And those draws are unsafe cause you do not know how many people have taken a fall on them and one of these days, one will break and kills a climber.

That isn't why fixed gear is unsafe, it is a reason why it could potentially be unsafe.


bill413


Dec 30, 2010, 3:24 AM
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majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
adam14113 wrote:
I wouldn't have been as nice as those guys

I was amazed at how civil they were to him. And, at the thief's unconcern about theft.

taking a draw is not against law. in fact it is against the law to leave pieces on the wall and I do not understand why lazy sport climbers have to leave their unsafe draws on every wall.loose some of those fat pounds out of your love handles and carry six freaking draws on your harness and clip and clean it after you are done.And those draws are unsafe cause you do not know how many people have taken a fall on them and one of these days, one will break and kills a climber.

While the thief claimed they were "unsafe" and "badly worn" - they were not. The people who were working that route knew the draws and their history. The thief claimed that (apparently) all the draws on the route were unsafe, but the anchor biners were fine. There was a little discussion there where the owners pointed out that carabiners were normally shaped like the ones that were being stolen. Maybe he mistook bent gates for damage?


crazy_fingers84


Dec 30, 2010, 3:29 AM
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bill413 wrote:
Maybe he mistook bent gates for damage?

I somehow doubt that. It seems like the thief knew exactly what he was doing and he was just trying to cover his ass. That is, until he realized he was talking to the owner's of the gear.


majid_sabet


Dec 30, 2010, 6:47 PM
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bill413 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
adam14113 wrote:
I wouldn't have been as nice as those guys

I was amazed at how civil they were to him. And, at the thief's unconcern about theft.

taking a draw is not against law. in fact it is against the law to leave pieces on the wall and I do not understand why lazy sport climbers have to leave their unsafe draws on every wall.loose some of those fat pounds out of your love handles and carry six freaking draws on your harness and clip and clean it after you are done.And those draws are unsafe cause you do not know how many people have taken a fall on them and one of these days, one will break and kills a climber.

While the thief claimed they were "unsafe" and "badly worn" - they were not. The people who were working that route knew the draws and their history. The thief claimed that (apparently) all the draws on the route were unsafe, but the anchor biners were fine. There was a little discussion there where the owners pointed out that carabiners were normally shaped like the ones that were being stolen. Maybe he mistook bent gates for damage?

ok, well let's say I ended up in the area and somehow I climbed and took a fall where I broke one of those biners.Do local climbers who know the history will take the responsibility if got hurt ?


bigo


Dec 30, 2010, 7:02 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:

ok, well let's say I ended up in the area and somehow I climbed and took a fall where I broke one of those biners.Do local climbers who know the history will take the responsibility if got hurt ?

Do you apply this same standard to all fixed gear? If you fall on a pin and it pulls resulting in injury, are the locals who knew the pin's condition liable?

Everyone is responsible for checking the integrity of what they clip - fixed or not.

Tim and Ian are nice guys and that fellow is lucky they are the ones that caught him.


redlude97


Dec 30, 2010, 7:25 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
adam14113 wrote:
I wouldn't have been as nice as those guys

I was amazed at how civil they were to him. And, at the thief's unconcern about theft.

taking a draw is not against law. in fact it is against the law to leave pieces on the wall and I do not understand why lazy sport climbers have to leave their unsafe draws on every wall.loose some of those fat pounds out of your love handles and carry six freaking draws on your harness and clip and clean it after you are done.And those draws are unsafe cause you do not know how many people have taken a fall on them and one of these days, one will break and kills a climber.

While the thief claimed they were "unsafe" and "badly worn" - they were not. The people who were working that route knew the draws and their history. The thief claimed that (apparently) all the draws on the route were unsafe, but the anchor biners were fine. There was a little discussion there where the owners pointed out that carabiners were normally shaped like the ones that were being stolen. Maybe he mistook bent gates for damage?

ok, well let's say I ended up in the area and somehow I climbed and took a fall where I broke one of those biners.Do local climbers who know the history will take the responsibility if got hurt ?
These draws aren't fixed so if you are so worried just clip your own QD below it. I have never seen a hanger that I couldn't fit 2 biners on. I have done so many times previously when I've offered to clean someone's route if they got stuck on it. Don't use it if you don't want to but don't pretend like you had to use it


edge


Dec 30, 2010, 7:31 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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Majid, when you are in the Valley, do you routinely remove the fixed lines from El Cap? Say, for example, the ones at the base of the Nose or Salathe?


dbogardus


Dec 30, 2010, 7:33 PM
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better yet, run it out above suspect gear...


bill413


Dec 30, 2010, 7:41 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
adam14113 wrote:
I wouldn't have been as nice as those guys

I was amazed at how civil they were to him. And, at the thief's unconcern about theft.

taking a draw is not against law. in fact it is against the law to leave pieces on the wall and I do not understand why lazy sport climbers have to leave their unsafe draws on every wall.loose some of those fat pounds out of your love handles and carry six freaking draws on your harness and clip and clean it after you are done.And those draws are unsafe cause you do not know how many people have taken a fall on them and one of these days, one will break and kills a climber.

While the thief claimed they were "unsafe" and "badly worn" - they were not. The people who were working that route knew the draws and their history. The thief claimed that (apparently) all the draws on the route were unsafe, but the anchor biners were fine. There was a little discussion there where the owners pointed out that carabiners were normally shaped like the ones that were being stolen. Maybe he mistook bent gates for damage?

ok, well let's say I ended up in the area and somehow I climbed and took a fall where I broke one of those biners.Do local climbers who know the history will take the responsibility if got hurt ?

It's your responsibility to know what you're clipping. If a biner is so worn that it breaks under a fall, you should have seen that when clipping. (Of course, it could break if cross-loaded...).


bearbreeder


Dec 30, 2010, 7:59 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:

ok, well let's say I ended up in the area and somehow I climbed and took a fall where I broke one of those biners.Do local climbers who know the history will take the responsibility if got hurt ?

mmmm ... all the draws are suddenly "unsafe" ?

must ste .... ummmm ... i mean protect the unschooled masses from these deranged killer draws that someone just left hanging ...

i think you need to worry about leading 5.8s before you worry about whether "cleaning' draws on a 5.14 Wink


redlude97


Dec 30, 2010, 8:09 PM
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There is already a precedence for gear on anchors, no one blames the bolter if an anchor chain or bolt fails, so why would a QD breaking be any different. Majid your logic is flawed on this in so many ways.


moose_droppings


Dec 30, 2010, 10:18 PM
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redlude97 wrote:
There is already a precedence for gear on anchors, no one blames the bolter if an anchor chain or bolt fails, so why would a QD breaking be any different. Majid your logic is flawed on this in so many ways.

Legal reference please.


redlude97


Dec 31, 2010, 12:09 AM
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moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
There is already a precedence for gear on anchors, no one blames the bolter if an anchor chain or bolt fails, so why would a QD breaking be any different. Majid your logic is flawed on this in so many ways.

Legal reference please.
You'd have to prove negligence in the first place. I don't think this has ever been brought up in court. Here is one such discussion about the legal ramifications http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25; which you posted in. I dont think the concerns have changed but I don't think there have been any successfull lawsuits either


majid_sabet


Dec 31, 2010, 12:13 AM
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Re: [redlude97] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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redlude97 wrote:
There is already a precedence for gear on anchors, no one blames the bolter if an anchor chain or bolt fails, so why would a QD breaking be any different. Majid your logic is flawed on this in so many ways.

QDs are rated to 15 KN with soft material hanging all day and all night exposed to cold and hot conditions with people taking falls on them on regular bases. bolt and hanger are rated to 25+ KN in one set condition and last five time longer than any QDs.

Does 2+2 adds up 4.5 ?


Why can't sport climber clean up after their climb ?


tell me, what is the logic behind leaving your sh*t hanging on the wall when you could easily clip and move on ?

Does two second time to clip in slows them down or uses a lot of their energy ?

bunch of pus*ies with skinny harness and skinny 6.9mm rope who can't even carry six QDs on their harnesses.


Partner camhead


Dec 31, 2010, 12:15 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
if I see one fixed on any wall, I will take it and there is not a dam thing you can do about it.

yes there is.


majid_sabet


Dec 31, 2010, 12:16 AM
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Re: [bill413] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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bill413 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
adam14113 wrote:
I wouldn't have been as nice as those guys

I was amazed at how civil they were to him. And, at the thief's unconcern about theft.

taking a draw is not against law. in fact it is against the law to leave pieces on the wall and I do not understand why lazy sport climbers have to leave their unsafe draws on every wall.loose some of those fat pounds out of your love handles and carry six freaking draws on your harness and clip and clean it after you are done.And those draws are unsafe cause you do not know how many people have taken a fall on them and one of these days, one will break and kills a climber.

While the thief claimed they were "unsafe" and "badly worn" - they were not. The people who were working that route knew the draws and their history. The thief claimed that (apparently) all the draws on the route were unsafe, but the anchor biners were fine. There was a little discussion there where the owners pointed out that carabiners were normally shaped like the ones that were being stolen. Maybe he mistook bent gates for damage?

ok, well let's say I ended up in the area and somehow I climbed and took a fall where I broke one of those biners.Do local climbers who know the history will take the responsibility if got hurt ?

It's your responsibility to know what you're clipping. If a biner is so worn that it breaks under a fall, you should have seen that when clipping. (Of course, it could break if cross-loaded...).

Bill

How many climbers examine every QDs while they are climbing ?


Partner camhead


Dec 31, 2010, 12:18 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
sp115 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
adam14113 wrote:
I wouldn't have been as nice as those guys

I was amazed at how civil they were to him. And, at the thief's unconcern about theft.

taking a draw is not against law. in fact it is against the law to leave pieces on the wall and I do not understand why lazy sport climbers have to leave their unsafe draws on every wall.loose some of those fat pounds out of your love handles and carry six freaking draws on your harness and clip and clean it after you are done.And those draws are unsafe cause you do not know how many people have taken a fall on them and one of these days, one will break and kills a climber.

So by that logic if you park your car (or yak, in your case), illegally, I can take it?

read the congress wilderness act (1960s) .

Oh Jesus fucking Christ, I'm sure someone has replied to this, but the Wilderness Act (1964, to be exact), only applies to.... (wait for it)....


WILDERNESS AREAS!


Please tell me which major sport climbing destination in the US lies within a wilderness area.


bearbreeder


Dec 31, 2010, 1:21 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
[
QDs are rated to 15 KN with soft material hanging all day and all night exposed to cold and hot conditions with people taking falls on them on regular bases. bolt and hanger are rated to 25+ KN in one set condition and last five time longer than any QDs.

Does 2+2 adds up 4.5 ?


Why can't sport climber clean up after their climb ?


tell me, what is the logic behind leaving your sh*t hanging on the wall when you could easily clip and move on ?

Does two second time to clip in slows them down or uses a lot of their energy ?

bunch of pus*ies with skinny harness and skinny 6.9mm rope who can't even carry six QDs on their harnesses.

says the flamer who can't lead 5.8 yet Wink

im sure youve got no problems clipping al yr draws on-sighting 5.4s mista majid ... unfortunately its not that easy on climbs that are a tad harder ...

Tongue


Gmburns2000


Dec 31, 2010, 1:24 AM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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christ, you guys are all arguing about whether it is OK to leave draws and I've got a serious problem here: do I pop the second 40 or leave it for the roommates? If I pop the 40 and don't leave it for them they may steal my amaretto and that shit's expensive down here, but they may also not care, and this here, my friends, is the real crux.


tripperjm


Dec 31, 2010, 1:40 AM
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majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
adam14113 wrote:
I wouldn't have been as nice as those guys

I was amazed at how civil they were to him. And, at the thief's unconcern about theft.

taking a draw is not against law. in fact it is against the law to leave pieces on the wall and I do not understand why lazy sport climbers have to leave their unsafe draws on every wall.loose some of those fat pounds out of your love handles and carry six freaking draws on your harness and clip and clean it after you are done.And those draws are unsafe cause you do not know how many people have taken a fall on them and one of these days, one will break and kills a climber.

While the thief claimed they were "unsafe" and "badly worn" - they were not. The people who were working that route knew the draws and their history. The thief claimed that (apparently) all the draws on the route were unsafe, but the anchor biners were fine. There was a little discussion there where the owners pointed out that carabiners were normally shaped like the ones that were being stolen. Maybe he mistook bent gates for damage?

ok, well let's say I ended up in the area and somehow I climbed and took a fall where I broke one of those biners.Do local climbers who know the history will take the responsibility if got hurt ?

Well I don't noes about teh local climbers... but ewe can OG BET that there wood be a jiant party hear on teh knob, with people poynting and laughing with red and green arrows. But sadly, that will never happen, cuz ewe don't climb.


sungam


Dec 31, 2010, 2:00 AM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
christ, you guys are all arguing about whether it is OK to leave draws and I've got a serious problem here: do I pop the second 40 or leave it for the roommates? If I pop the 40 and don't leave it for them they may steal my amaretto and that shit's expensive down here, but they may also not care, and this here, my friends, is the real crux.
What? Drink the 40 and deal with it later.



P.S. vid dood is a doosh. I also double took when the camera man spoke, it sounded just like cory for a second. I guess them oregonians all have cory accents or somin like that.


Dudebrohamski is definitely shaving his beard and dying his hair after this shitspread.


But I am in need of some cheap draws so... *checks portland craigslist*


Gmburns2000


Dec 31, 2010, 2:05 AM
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Re: [sungam] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
christ, you guys are all arguing about whether it is OK to leave draws and I've got a serious problem here: do I pop the second 40 or leave it for the roommates? If I pop the 40 and don't leave it for them they may steal my amaretto and that shit's expensive down here, but they may also not care, and this here, my friends, is the real crux.
What? Drink the 40 and deal with it later.

hmmm...well played...


sungam


Dec 31, 2010, 2:15 AM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
sungam wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
christ, you guys are all arguing about whether it is OK to leave draws and I've got a serious problem here: do I pop the second 40 or leave it for the roommates? If I pop the 40 and don't leave it for them they may steal my amaretto and that shit's expensive down here, but they may also not care, and this here, my friends, is the real crux.
What? Drink the 40 and deal with it later.

hmmm...well played...
Once a newb, alwaze a newb.


P.S. I laughed out loud when he was like "those are my draws" - aw damn boi! you dun GOOFED. (as some would say)


adam14113


Dec 31, 2010, 2:32 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
adam14113 wrote:
I wouldn't have been as nice as those guys

I was amazed at how civil they were to him. And, at the thief's unconcern about theft.

taking a draw is not against law. in fact it is against the law to leave pieces on the wall and I do not understand why lazy sport climbers have to leave their unsafe draws on every wall.loose some of those fat pounds out of your love handles and carry six freaking draws on your harness and clip and clean it after you are done.And those draws are unsafe cause you do not know how many people have taken a fall on them and one of these days, one will break and kills a climber.

While the thief claimed they were "unsafe" and "badly worn" - they were not. The people who were working that route knew the draws and their history. The thief claimed that (apparently) all the draws on the route were unsafe, but the anchor biners were fine. There was a little discussion there where the owners pointed out that carabiners were normally shaped like the ones that were being stolen. Maybe he mistook bent gates for damage?

ok, well let's say I ended up in the area and somehow I climbed and took a fall where I broke one of those biners.Do local climbers who know the history will take the responsibility if got hurt ?

It's your responsibility to know what you're clipping. If a biner is so worn that it breaks under a fall, you should have seen that when clipping. (Of course, it could break if cross-loaded...).

Bill

How many climbers examine every QDs while they are climbing ?

it's pretty obvious you are trying to dig yourself out with ridiculous hypotheticals, if someone has the skill enough to climb a route with permanent quick draws on it they would sure as hell have the experience to know to check the QDs


(This post was edited by adam14113 on Dec 31, 2010, 2:34 AM)


bill413


Dec 31, 2010, 2:44 AM
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adam14113 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
adam14113 wrote:
I wouldn't have been as nice as those guys

I was amazed at how civil they were to him. And, at the thief's unconcern about theft.

taking a draw is not against law. in fact it is against the law to leave pieces on the wall and I do not understand why lazy sport climbers have to leave their unsafe draws on every wall.loose some of those fat pounds out of your love handles and carry six freaking draws on your harness and clip and clean it after you are done.And those draws are unsafe cause you do not know how many people have taken a fall on them and one of these days, one will break and kills a climber.

While the thief claimed they were "unsafe" and "badly worn" - they were not. The people who were working that route knew the draws and their history. The thief claimed that (apparently) all the draws on the route were unsafe, but the anchor biners were fine. There was a little discussion there where the owners pointed out that carabiners were normally shaped like the ones that were being stolen. Maybe he mistook bent gates for damage?

ok, well let's say I ended up in the area and somehow I climbed and took a fall where I broke one of those biners.Do local climbers who know the history will take the responsibility if got hurt ?

It's your responsibility to know what you're clipping. If a biner is so worn that it breaks under a fall, you should have seen that when clipping. (Of course, it could break if cross-loaded...).

Bill

How many climbers examine every QDs while they are climbing ?

it's pretty obvious you are trying to dig yourself out with ridiculous hypotheticals, if someone has the skill enough to climb a route with permanent quick draws on it they would sure as hell have the experience to know to check the QDs

I think he's starting to argue that the climber shouldn't check their systems.


moose_droppings


Dec 31, 2010, 3:20 AM
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Re: [redlude97] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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redlude97 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
There is already a precedence for gear on anchors, no one blames the bolter if an anchor chain or bolt fails, so why would a QD breaking be any different. Majid your logic is flawed on this in so many ways.

Legal reference please.
You'd have to prove negligence in the first place. I don't think this has ever been brought up in court. Here is one such discussion about the legal ramifications http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25; which you posted in. I dont think the concerns have changed but I don't think there have been any successfull lawsuits either

There is plenty of opinions and concerns in that other thread, but no precedence set as to where the liability will fall.

To my knowledge, there is no precedence on this matter. I would like to read of any if there is though.

I also believe it's not as simple as an anchor or a quickdraw failure, I'm sure there would many other factors and circumstances to consider that would have to be taken into account and each incident would have it's own threshold to either side of the argument.


(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Dec 31, 2010, 3:22 AM)


gosharks


Dec 31, 2010, 5:57 AM
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camhead wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
sp115 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
adam14113 wrote:
I wouldn't have been as nice as those guys

I was amazed at how civil they were to him. And, at the thief's unconcern about theft.

taking a draw is not against law. in fact it is against the law to leave pieces on the wall and I do not understand why lazy sport climbers have to leave their unsafe draws on every wall.loose some of those fat pounds out of your love handles and carry six freaking draws on your harness and clip and clean it after you are done.And those draws are unsafe cause you do not know how many people have taken a fall on them and one of these days, one will break and kills a climber.

So by that logic if you park your car (or yak, in your case), illegally, I can take it?

read the congress wilderness act (1960s) .

Oh Jesus fucking Christ, I'm sure someone has replied to this, but the Wilderness Act (1964, to be exact), only applies to.... (wait for it)....


WILDERNESS AREAS!


Please tell me which major sport climbing destination in the US lies within a wilderness area.
I brought it up 20mins after he posted that. No response. What a surprise.


redlude97


Dec 31, 2010, 6:16 AM
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Precedence wasn't the right word. When I said that what I meant was that there had been many bolt failures in the past. There are manly bolts at many crags throughout the us and no one has been sued yet. I think this mostly has to do with the fact that almost everyone associates climbing with inherent danger and that any fixed protection is use at ur own risk


majid_sabet


Dec 31, 2010, 6:21 AM
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bearbreeder wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
[
QDs are rated to 15 KN with soft material hanging all day and all night exposed to cold and hot conditions with people taking falls on them on regular bases. bolt and hanger are rated to 25+ KN in one set condition and last five time longer than any QDs.

Does 2+2 adds up 4.5 ?


Why can't sport climber clean up after their climb ?


tell me, what is the logic behind leaving your sh*t hanging on the wall when you could easily clip and move on ?

Does two second time to clip in slows them down or uses a lot of their energy ?

bunch of pus*ies with skinny harness and skinny 6.9mm rope who can't even carry six QDs on their harnesses.

says the flamer who can't lead 5.8 yet Wink

im sure youve got no problems clipping al yr draws on-sighting 5.4s mista majid ... unfortunately its not that easy on climbs that are a tad harder ...

Tongue

you been going after me for some times now and I am not sure if you what happens to those who point their keyboard on me.

Have you seen Angry lately ?


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Dec 31, 2010, 6:21 AM)


jt512


Dec 31, 2010, 6:21 AM
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Re: [moose_droppings] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
There is already a precedence for gear on anchors, no one blames the bolter if an anchor chain or bolt fails, so why would a QD breaking be any different. Majid your logic is flawed on this in so many ways.

Legal reference please.
You'd have to prove negligence in the first place. I don't think this has ever been brought up in court. Here is one such discussion about the legal ramifications http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25; which you posted in. I dont think the concerns have changed but I don't think there have been any successfull lawsuits either

There is plenty of opinions and concerns in that other thread, but no precedence set as to where the liability will fall.

To my knowledge, there is no precedence on this matter. I would like to read of any if there is though.

I also believe it's not as simple as an anchor or a quickdraw failure, I'm sure there would many other factors and circumstances to consider that would have to be taken into account and each incident would have it's own threshold to either side of the argument.

You guys have no idea what you are talking about. Look up "assumption of risk." Negligence is not a cause of action when the plaintiff has knowingly participated in a dangerous sport. Therefore, if the person who hung the draws was "negligent" with respect to their condition, he would not be legally responsible for injuries resulting from someone who relied on them.

Jay

P.S., Do I have to do all the work around here? I'm not even a lawyer.


(This post was edited by jt512 on Dec 31, 2010, 6:33 AM)


notapplicable


Dec 31, 2010, 7:13 AM
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While that guy is an ass and clearly in the wrong, it would be nice if the locals policed themselves. That route is not steep enough to make cleaning the draws at the end of the day a difficult task, so the only really viable reason for leaving them is out the window.

Don't be lazy people. A wall superfluously littered with draws just looks trashy.


ozoneclimber


Dec 31, 2010, 7:25 AM
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notapplicable wrote:
Don't be lazy people. A wall superfluously littered with draws just looks trashy.

Well said... Exactly what I've been thinking the entire time.

-B


jt512


Dec 31, 2010, 7:39 AM
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notapplicable wrote:
While that guy is an ass and clearly in the wrong, it would be nice if the locals policed themselves. That route is not steep enough to make cleaning the draws at the end of the day a difficult task, so the only really viable reason for leaving them is out the window.

Don't be lazy people. A wall superfluously littered with draws just looks trashy.

Oh, for heaven's sakes, it's 5.14. You're not even remotely qualified to have an opinion, much less express one. Let's see if you can even put the draws up, and even if you can, how much energy you have left to then productively work the route on the same day.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Dec 31, 2010, 7:43 AM)


bearbreeder


Dec 31, 2010, 7:42 AM
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majid_sabet wrote:

you been going after me for some times now and I am not sure if you what happens to those who point their keyboard on me.

Have you seen Angry lately ?

oooo mista majid ... are ya threatening little ole me?

going after you? .... im simply pointing out that you stated

"Does two second time to clip in slows them down or uses a lot of their energy ?

bunch of pus*ies with skinny harness and skinny 6.9mm rope who can't even carry six QDs on their harnesses."


when you admit that you havent even led 5.8 ... who are you to call people pussies .... if you cant sport climb that ... lol


perhaps you have a special deal with the rockclimbing.com gods where ya can just insult everyone freely and get people banned ... wake me up when i get angry Tongue


moose_droppings


Dec 31, 2010, 7:43 AM
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jt512 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
There is already a precedence for gear on anchors, no one blames the bolter if an anchor chain or bolt fails, so why would a QD breaking be any different. Majid your logic is flawed on this in so many ways.

Legal reference please.
You'd have to prove negligence in the first place. I don't think this has ever been brought up in court. Here is one such discussion about the legal ramifications http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25; which you posted in. I dont think the concerns have changed but I don't think there have been any successfull lawsuits either

There is plenty of opinions and concerns in that other thread, but no precedence set as to where the liability will fall.

To my knowledge, there is no precedence on this matter. I would like to read of any if there is though.

I also believe it's not as simple as an anchor or a quickdraw failure, I'm sure there would many other factors and circumstances to consider that would have to be taken into account and each incident would have it's own threshold to either side of the argument.

You guys have no idea what you are talking about. Look up "assumption of risk." Negligence is not a cause of action when the plaintiff has knowingly participated in a dangerous sport. Therefore, if the person who hung the draws was "negligent" with respect to their condition, he would not be legally responsible for injuries resulting from someone who relied on them.

Jay

P.S., Do I have to do all the work around here? I'm not even a lawyer.

Jay, look up circumstances and take that in context with what i bolded in my statement above.

In reply to:
I'm not even a lawyer.

That's obvious.
Many variables in assumption of risk too, it's not an all encompassing exemption.

In reply to:
Therefore, if the person who hung the draws was "negligent" with respect to their condition, he would not be legally responsible for injuries resulting from someone who relied on them.

So........If a guide took out a new client and hung some draws that were wore part way through up a route, then said they're fine go for it. Then the third one up breaks and the clients sustains injuries, the guide cannot be found liable because of assumption of risk.

Things need to be taken in context with all the circumstances.


jt512


Dec 31, 2010, 7:45 AM
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moose_droppings wrote:
jt512 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
There is already a precedence for gear on anchors, no one blames the bolter if an anchor chain or bolt fails, so why would a QD breaking be any different. Majid your logic is flawed on this in so many ways.

Legal reference please.
You'd have to prove negligence in the first place. I don't think this has ever been brought up in court. Here is one such discussion about the legal ramifications http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25; which you posted in. I dont think the concerns have changed but I don't think there have been any successfull lawsuits either

There is plenty of opinions and concerns in that other thread, but no precedence set as to where the liability will fall.

To my knowledge, there is no precedence on this matter. I would like to read of any if there is though.

I also believe it's not as simple as an anchor or a quickdraw failure, I'm sure there would many other factors and circumstances to consider that would have to be taken into account and each incident would have it's own threshold to either side of the argument.

You guys have no idea what you are talking about. Look up "assumption of risk." Negligence is not a cause of action when the plaintiff has knowingly participated in a dangerous sport. Therefore, if the person who hung the draws was "negligent" with respect to their condition, he would not be legally responsible for injuries resulting from someone who relied on them.

Jay

P.S., Do I have to do all the work around here? I'm not even a lawyer.

Jay, look up circumstances and take that in context with what i bolded in my statement above.

In reply to:
I'm not even a lawyer.

That's obvious.
Many variables in assumption of risk too, it's not an all encompassing exemption.

In reply to:
Therefore, if the person who hung the draws was "negligent" with respect to their condition, he would not be legally responsible for injuries resulting from someone who relied on them.

So........If a guide took out a new client and hung some draws that were wore part way through up a route, then said they're fine go for it. Then the third one up breaks and the clients sustains injuries, the guide cannot be found liable because of assumption of risk.

Things need to be taken in context with all the circumstances.

A guide? A GUIDE? Someone you were paying? For fuck's sake, that obviously changes everything, but has nothing to do with the present question. Please shut the fuck up, you fucking moron.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Dec 31, 2010, 7:47 AM)


moose_droppings


Dec 31, 2010, 7:56 AM
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This is what changes things, something I said prior to your first post in this.

In reply to:
it's not as simple as an anchor or a quickdraw failure, I'm sure there would many other factors and circumstances to consider that would have to be taken into account

We were talking about other cases that may be out there and I pointed out that many other circumstances have to be weighed with each individual case, and taken in context with those circumstances.

Then you graced us with your high and mighty shortsightedness.


jt512


Dec 31, 2010, 8:08 AM
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moose_droppings wrote:
This is what changes things, something I said prior to your first post in this.

In reply to:
it's not as simple as an anchor or a quickdraw failure, I'm sure there would many other factors and circumstances to consider that would have to be taken into account

We were talking about other cases that may be out there and I pointed out that many other circumstances have to be weighed with each individual case, and taken in context with those circumstances.

Then you graced us with your high and mighty shortsightedness.

I have no idea what the above babble is supposed to mean. U.S. law is clear: if you participate in a risky sport, negligence is not a cause of action. Therefore, if you climb a route with fixed draws that were put up by another climber, and the draw fails, you have no cause of action for negligence against the climber who put the draw up.

This is why, in the US, you can't, for instance, successfully sue your belayer–partner for negligently dropping you; why you can't successfully sue the equipper of a route for injuries due to a badly placed bolt; etc.

Jay


moose_droppings


Dec 31, 2010, 8:30 AM
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jt512 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
This is what changes things, something I said prior to your first post in this.

In reply to:
it's not as simple as an anchor or a quickdraw failure, I'm sure there would many other factors and circumstances to consider that would have to be taken into account

We were talking about other cases that may be out there and I pointed out that many other circumstances have to be weighed with each individual case, and taken in context with those circumstances.

Then you graced us with your high and mighty shortsightedness.

I have no idea what the above babble is supposed to mean. U.S. law is clear: if you participate in a risky sport, negligence is not a cause of action. Therefore, if you climb a route with fixed draws that were put up by another climber, and the draw fails, you have no cause of action for negligence against the climber who put the draw up.

This is why, in the US, you can't, for instance, successfully sue your belayer–partner for negligently dropping you; why you can't successfully sue the equipper of a route for injuries due to a badly placed bolt; etc.

Jay

Context and circumstances Jay. There is no magic exemptions as you are implying.

In reply to:
You guys have no idea what you are talking about. Look up "assumption of risk." Negligence is not a cause of action when the plaintiff has knowingly participated in a dangerous sport. Therefore, if the person who hung the draws was "negligent" with respect to their condition, he would not be legally responsible for injuries resulting from someone who relied on them.


I showed you a situation that falls within the parameters you describe above and it was obvious to you that there are exceptions. Your statement of an all encompassing assumption of risk is wrong.

I'd think with your years on this site that you would stray clear of blanket statements.


redlude97


Dec 31, 2010, 8:41 AM
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moose_droppings wrote:
jt512 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
This is what changes things, something I said prior to your first post in this.

In reply to:
it's not as simple as an anchor or a quickdraw failure, I'm sure there would many other factors and circumstances to consider that would have to be taken into account

We were talking about other cases that may be out there and I pointed out that many other circumstances have to be weighed with each individual case, and taken in context with those circumstances.

Then you graced us with your high and mighty shortsightedness.

I have no idea what the above babble is supposed to mean. U.S. law is clear: if you participate in a risky sport, negligence is not a cause of action. Therefore, if you climb a route with fixed draws that were put up by another climber, and the draw fails, you have no cause of action for negligence against the climber who put the draw up.

This is why, in the US, you can't, for instance, successfully sue your belayer–partner for negligently dropping you; why you can't successfully sue the equipper of a route for injuries due to a badly placed bolt; etc.

Jay

Context and circumstances Jay. There is no magic exemptions as you are implying.

In reply to:
You guys have no idea what you are talking about. Look up "assumption of risk." Negligence is not a cause of action when the plaintiff has knowingly participated in a dangerous sport. Therefore, if the person who hung the draws was "negligent" with respect to their condition, he would not be legally responsible for injuries resulting from someone who relied on them.


I showed you a situation that falls within the parameters you describe above and it was obvious to you that there are exceptions. Your statement of an all encompassing assumption of risk is wrong.

I'd think with your years on this site that you would stray clear of blanket statements.
I dunno I don't usually agree with jay, but your example has no revelance to this case we are discussing, or anchors put up in general. Its similar to landowners not being liable for climbers on their land as long as they don't charge a fee to use it. Once a fee is assessed liability is on the landowner


moose_droppings


Dec 31, 2010, 9:03 AM
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This is from you,

redlude97 wrote:
There is already a precedence for gear on anchors, no one blames the bolter if an anchor chain or bolt fails,

You drew the conversation to anchors and the whole thread is about quickdraws left on routes. Were is it exactly that my example has no revelance? We were talking in general about these things, not any one specific case. I asked for any case I could read about and made the statement about each different case having different circumstances. If now you want to go back to a specific case, let me know which one it is.

Jay brought up the silly notion that there is a blanket rule exempting anybody from prosecution if they participate in a risky sport. This is not specific to any case. It was easy to exploit this with a simple example.


moose_droppings


Dec 31, 2010, 9:09 AM
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Another blanket statement.

In reply to:
Its similar to landowners not being liable for climbers on their land as long as they don't charge a fee to use it. Once a fee is assessed liability is on the landowner

Maybe, maybe not.


redlude97


Dec 31, 2010, 9:20 AM
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moose_droppings wrote:
Another blanket statement.

In reply to:
Its similar to landowners not being liable for climbers on their land as long as they don't charge a fee to use it. Once a fee is assessed liability is on the landowner

Maybe, maybe not.
Recreational Use statutes in all 50 states are pretty clear in limiting liability


Partner j_ung


Dec 31, 2010, 1:03 PM
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If project draws are allowed and accepted, which I assume then they are at Smith, then I only need to know the answer to one question. Did the bearded guy really believe that those draws were abandoned? It's pretty obvious he knew exactly what he was doing.


socalclimber


Dec 31, 2010, 2:24 PM
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He was up there with a stick clip, he knew exactly what he was doing. His claim about cleaning "fixed" draws off the route is standard practice every place he's climbed is bullshit. He's a thief, pure and simple.

It's one thing when there is a single draw, or a cam left behind. But when you are cleaning entire routes, it's theft pure and simple. He's a thief and a lier.

As far as the liability is concerned, it's an assumed risk. Good god, by some of the logic I see here (or lack of it), if I climb a wall with a pitch that has fixed heads on it, one blows, and I ledge, I get to sue the guy who placed it.

Complete stupidity.

Any route I climb that has "fixed" gear on it is suspect till I can determine otherwise. If I don't like it, I don't use it, or clip it. If it makes the route to dangerous for me to do, I find something else to climb.

If you climb the route, your ass is your own. Nobody is responsible but you. Deal with it or take up knitting. That way you can sue the manufacturer of the needles when you stab yourself. Shocked

As far as guiding goes, it's simple. The client signs a release of liability. Ultimately it is the guides job to ensure the clients safety and that the gear being used is in good condition. If it can be proven the guide was negligent, then that's another story for the judge to sort out.


(This post was edited by socalclimber on Dec 31, 2010, 2:53 PM)


moose_droppings


Dec 31, 2010, 6:01 PM
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redlude97 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
Another blanket statement.

In reply to:
Its similar to landowners not being liable for climbers on their land as long as they don't charge a fee to use it. Once a fee is assessed liability is on the landowner

Maybe, maybe not.
Recreational Use statutes in all 50 states are pretty clear in limiting liability

Please don't play Jay on me.

Jay quoted me and said I was wrong about different circumstances in each case because his assumption of risk law supersedes all that. Then I give him an example of different circumstances and he said, well yeah, that's different circumstances. I swear it's like arguing with a child.


Now this.
You said prior to this that "Once a fee is assessed liability is on the landowner".
I say "maybe, maybe not"..
Now you say it's, "clear in limiting liability". These two things are different. I'll just repeat, "It depends".

Your making an assumption much like Jay did in that the law is clear. Lawyers and judges construe the law to fit their interpretations depending on the circumstances, then jurors make their own decision based on what is sometimes nothing more than their gut feelings.

The law is far from "clear" in all cases. It depends.


marc801


Dec 31, 2010, 6:38 PM
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redlude97 wrote:
Its similar to landowners not being liable for climbers on their land as long as they don't charge a fee to use it. Once a fee is assessed liability is on the landowner
That's not true, either.


moose_droppings


Dec 31, 2010, 7:01 PM
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socalclimber wrote:
As far as the liability is concerned, it's an assumed risk. Good god, by some of the logic I see here (or lack of it), if I climb a wall with a pitch that has fixed heads on it, one blows, and I ledge, I get to sue the guy who placed it.


In the case your pointing out above it would near impossible (got to leave room for lawyer wiggle and our justice system) to take any action on anyone. But as you've already conceded further down in your post, there are different cases that might have different outcomes.

Just saying assumed risk makes you liable doesn't make it so in every case. There are legal limitations to what risks you assume.

While I 100% agree that we need to be responsible for our actions, there is a whole army of legal eagles out there who will gladly outline where and what a person legal responsibilities are in respect to assumption of liability. Unfortunately their definitions and yours aren't going to match up with yours.

Not everyone and their lawyer will stand up and be responsible for their own actions. It's also not always the person that got injured or killed that will bring action against some one else.




I don't like it anymore than most, but i do acknowledge it is the way it is.


raingod


Dec 31, 2010, 7:19 PM
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moose_droppings wrote:
......
The law is far from "clear" in all cases. It depends.

Exactly, if the law was clear in all cases we wouldn't need Lawers


majid_sabet


Dec 31, 2010, 7:25 PM
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bearbreeder wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:

you been going after me for some times now and I am not sure if you what happens to those who point their keyboard on me.

Have you seen Angry lately ?

oooo mista majid ... are ya threatening little ole me?

going after you? .... im simply pointing out that you stated

"Does two second time to clip in slows them down or uses a lot of their energy ?

bunch of pus*ies with skinny harness and skinny 6.9mm rope who can't even carry six QDs on their harnesses."


when you admit that you havent even led 5.8 ... who are you to call people pussies .... if you cant sport climb that ... lol


perhaps you have a special deal with the rockclimbing.com gods where ya can just insult everyone freely and get people banned ... wake me up when i get angry Tongue

I am the black sheep in RC and there is team of wabbit haters who are looking forward to kick my as* so I am not a VIP round here but I am known to talk when I see a problem. You may call this an insult or disrespect or whatever but I am not shy to stand for what I think is right.

I am not always right


chadnsc


Dec 31, 2010, 7:57 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:

you been going after me for some times now and I am not sure if you what happens to those who point their keyboard on me.

Have you seen Angry lately ?

oooo mista majid ... are ya threatening little ole me?

going after you? .... im simply pointing out that you stated

"Does two second time to clip in slows them down or uses a lot of their energy ?

bunch of pus*ies with skinny harness and skinny 6.9mm rope who can't even carry six QDs on their harnesses."


when you admit that you havent even led 5.8 ... who are you to call people pussies .... if you cant sport climb that ... lol


perhaps you have a special deal with the rockclimbing.com gods where ya can just insult everyone freely and get people banned ... wake me up when i get angry Tongue

I am the black sheep in RC and there is team of wabbit haters who are looking forward to kick my as* so I am not a VIP round here but I am known to talk when I see a problem. You may call this an insult or disrespect or whatever but I am not shy to stand for what I think is right.

I am not always right

I don't know of anyone who wants to kick your ass midget. You're like a socially inept first grader, annoying but harmless.


Partner camhead


Dec 31, 2010, 10:01 PM
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chadnsc wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:

you been going after me for some times now and I am not sure if you what happens to those who point their keyboard on me.

Have you seen Angry lately ?

oooo mista majid ... are ya threatening little ole me?

going after you? .... im simply pointing out that you stated

"Does two second time to clip in slows them down or uses a lot of their energy ?

bunch of pus*ies with skinny harness and skinny 6.9mm rope who can't even carry six QDs on their harnesses."


when you admit that you havent even led 5.8 ... who are you to call people pussies .... if you cant sport climb that ... lol


perhaps you have a special deal with the rockclimbing.com gods where ya can just insult everyone freely and get people banned ... wake me up when i get angry Tongue

I am the black sheep in RC and there is team of wabbit haters who are looking forward to kick my as* so I am not a VIP round here but I am known to talk when I see a problem. You may call this an insult or disrespect or whatever but I am not shy to stand for what I think is right.

I am not always right

I don't know of anyone who wants to kick your ass midget. You're like a socially inept first grader, annoying but harmless.

More important, Majid is not representative of the climbing community, neither on a national nor regional level. The polite folks in the video, however, are.


redlude97


Dec 31, 2010, 10:09 PM
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moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
Another blanket statement.

In reply to:
Its similar to landowners not being liable for climbers on their land as long as they don't charge a fee to use it. Once a fee is assessed liability is on the landowner

Maybe, maybe not.
Recreational Use statutes in all 50 states are pretty clear in limiting liability

Please don't play Jay on me.

Jay quoted me and said I was wrong about different circumstances in each case because his assumption of risk law supersedes all that. Then I give him an example of different circumstances and he said, well yeah, that's different circumstances. I swear it's like arguing with a child.


Now this.
You said prior to this that "Once a fee is assessed liability is on the landowner".
I say "maybe, maybe not"..
Now you say it's, "clear in limiting liability". These two things are different. I'll just repeat, "It depends".

Your making an assumption much like Jay did in that the law is clear. Lawyers and judges construe the law to fit their interpretations depending on the circumstances, then jurors make their own decision based on what is sometimes nothing more than their gut feelings.

The law is far from "clear" in all cases. It depends.
Please show me a legal case where "it depends" applies. Show me where a landowner who charges a fee for use of their land was sued after an accident and was sued. I have never heard of such a case. I do know that the access fund who I'm sure has had lawyers look in the liability laws have told climbers to tell landowners that they won't be held liable for injuries as long as they don't charge a fee to use their land.


bearbreeder


Dec 31, 2010, 10:48 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
I am the black sheep in RC and there is team of wabbit haters who are looking forward to kick my as* so I am not a VIP round here but I am known to talk when I see a problem. You may call this an insult or disrespect or whatever but I am not shy to stand for what I think is right.

I am not always right

taking all the draws as they must all be obviously unsafe .....claiming they are yours ... bashing "pussies" for not being able to clean a 5.14 every time when you cant even do a 5.8

how righteous thoult art oh holy majid Tongue


moose_droppings


Jan 1, 2011, 12:37 AM
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redlude97 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
Another blanket statement.

In reply to:
Its similar to landowners not being liable for climbers on their land as long as they don't charge a fee to use it. Once a fee is assessed liability is on the landowner

Maybe, maybe not.
Recreational Use statutes in all 50 states are pretty clear in limiting liability

Please don't play Jay on me.

Jay quoted me and said I was wrong about different circumstances in each case because his assumption of risk law supersedes all that. Then I give him an example of different circumstances and he said, well yeah, that's different circumstances. I swear it's like arguing with a child.


Now this.
You said prior to this that "Once a fee is assessed liability is on the landowner".
I say "maybe, maybe not"..
Now you say it's, "clear in limiting liability". These two things are different. I'll just repeat, "It depends".

Your making an assumption much like Jay did in that the law is clear. Lawyers and judges construe the law to fit their interpretations depending on the circumstances, then jurors make their own decision based on what is sometimes nothing more than their gut feelings.

The law is far from "clear" in all cases. It depends.
Please show me a legal case where "it depends" applies. Show me where a landowner who charges a fee for use of their land was sued after an accident and was sued.

I'm not following you here, Maybe your trying to say, show me a landlord that doesn't charge for using their land that has been sued.

If your trying to say that a straight forward case of someone of legal age acknowledges he will waive any liability to said landowner, you might have a pretty good case, in that set of circumstances. I said might because it depends on what actually happened. What if the landowner came out and cut your rope while you were jugging it. Who's liable then? Far fetched, yep, within the realm of possibilities for something like this to show up in court? People have done crazier things. That's just one of a thousands of different possibilities that make up different circumstances. Not everything in law is cut and dried, for the most part, they're not.

You brought up negligence and I responded with this:

"I also believe it's not as simple as an anchor or a quickdraw failure, I'm sure there would many other factors and circumstances to consider that would have to be taken into account and each incident would have it's own threshold to either side of the argument."

Now when I give an incident with a different set of circumstances, you and Jay cry foul.

Crazy


jt512


Jan 1, 2011, 3:52 AM
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moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
Another blanket statement.

In reply to:
Its similar to landowners not being liable for climbers on their land as long as they don't charge a fee to use it. Once a fee is assessed liability is on the landowner

Maybe, maybe not.
Recreational Use statutes in all 50 states are pretty clear in limiting liability

Please don't play Jay on me.

Jay quoted me and said I was wrong about different circumstances in each case because his assumption of risk law supersedes all that. Then I give him an example of different circumstances and he said, well yeah, that's different circumstances. I swear it's like arguing with a child.


Now this.
You said prior to this that "Once a fee is assessed liability is on the landowner".
I say "maybe, maybe not"..
Now you say it's, "clear in limiting liability". These two things are different. I'll just repeat, "It depends".

Your making an assumption much like Jay did in that the law is clear. Lawyers and judges construe the law to fit their interpretations depending on the circumstances, then jurors make their own decision based on what is sometimes nothing more than their gut feelings.

The law is far from "clear" in all cases. It depends.
Please show me a legal case where "it depends" applies. Show me where a landowner who charges a fee for use of their land was sued after an accident and was sued.

I'm not following you here, Maybe your trying to say, show me a landlord that doesn't charge for using their land that has been sued.

If your trying to say that a straight forward case of someone of legal age acknowledges he will waive any liability to said landowner, you might have a pretty good case, in that set of circumstances. I said might because it depends on what actually happened. What if the landowner came out and cut your rope while you were jugging it. Who's liable then? Far fetched, yep, within the realm of possibilities for something like this to show up in court? People have done crazier things. That's just one of a thousands of different possibilities that make up different circumstances. Not everything in law is cut and dried, for the most part, they're not.

You brought up negligence and I responded with this:

"I also believe it's not as simple as an anchor or a quickdraw failure, I'm sure there would many other factors and circumstances to consider that would have to be taken into account and each incident would have it's own threshold to either side of the argument."

Now when I give an incident with a different set of circumstances, you and Jay cry foul.

Crazy

Of course, because every "circumstance" you give is a straw man, your latest straw man being the landowner actually murdering the climber.

You haven't come up with a single "circumstance" within the scope of the issue being discussed to support your assertion that every case of mere negligence causing injury to someone participating in a dangerous recreational activity is a question of circumstances that you seem to think are likely to override assumption of risk.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Jan 1, 2011, 4:02 AM)


moose_droppings


Jan 1, 2011, 4:07 AM
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I didn't misrepresent your position that assumption of risk trumps all. I gave you an example that clearly fell within your parameters and is exempt from your position. You on the other hand have missed my position that other circumstances have other outcomes in law.

*plonk*


redlude97


Jan 1, 2011, 4:12 AM
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moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
Another blanket statement.

In reply to:
Its similar to landowners not being liable for climbers on their land as long as they don't charge a fee to use it. Once a fee is assessed liability is on the landowner

Maybe, maybe not.
Recreational Use statutes in all 50 states are pretty clear in limiting liability

Please don't play Jay on me.

Jay quoted me and said I was wrong about different circumstances in each case because his assumption of risk law supersedes all that. Then I give him an example of different circumstances and he said, well yeah, that's different circumstances. I swear it's like arguing with a child.


Now this.
You said prior to this that "Once a fee is assessed liability is on the landowner".
I say "maybe, maybe not"..

Now you say it's, "clear in limiting liability". These two things are different. I'll just repeat, "It depends".

Your making an assumption much like Jay did in that the law is clear. Lawyers and judges construe the law to fit their interpretations depending on the circumstances, then jurors make their own decision based on what is sometimes nothing more than their gut feelings.

The law is far from "clear" in all cases. It depends.
Please show me a legal case where "it depends" applies. Show me where a landowner who charges a fee for use of their land was sued after an accident and was sued.

I'm not following you here, Maybe your trying to say, show me a landlord that doesn't charge for using their land that has been sued.

If your trying to say that a straight forward case of someone of legal age acknowledges he will waive any liability to said landowner, you might have a pretty good case, in that set of circumstances. I said might because it depends on what actually happened. What if the landowner came out and cut your rope while you were jugging it. Who's liable then? Far fetched, yep, within the realm of possibilities for something like this to show up in court? People have done crazier things. That's just one of a thousands of different possibilities that make up different circumstances. Not everything in law is cut and dried, for the most part, they're not.

You brought up negligence and I responded with this:

"I also believe it's not as simple as an anchor or a quickdraw failure, I'm sure there would many other factors and circumstances to consider that would have to be taken into account and each incident would have it's own threshold to either side of the argument."

Now when I give an incident with a different set of circumstances, you and Jay cry foul.

Crazy
What? You specifically quoted my comment regarding liability when a fee is charged. Then I asked you to cite an example. For the case where no fee is charged, as long as there is no negligence on the landowner's part that caused the accident. They are not liable, the statutes are pretty clear on this. Both of your examples still have not addressed a case relevant to a normal climbing situation. Non-guided climbing on private land without fees where the owner is not present. Please provide me with a legal example of this case since you are so sure it would apply


jt512


Jan 1, 2011, 4:13 AM
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moose_droppings wrote:
I didn't misrepresent your position that assumption of risk trumps all.

No. I was certainly not talking about the acts of commercial operators or murderers.

Jay


redlude97


Jan 1, 2011, 4:14 AM
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moose_droppings wrote:
I didn't misrepresent your position that assumption of risk trumps all. I gave you an example that clearly fell within your parameters and is exempt from your position. You on the other hand have missed my position that other circumstances have other outcomes in law.

*plonk*
So what you think Jay's position implies is that if someone is climbing you have a right to shoot them without any liability because of the inherent risk? You don't think that is stretching his position at all?


jt512


Jan 1, 2011, 4:21 AM
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redlude97 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
I didn't misrepresent your position that assumption of risk trumps all. I gave you an example that clearly fell within your parameters and is exempt from your position. You on the other hand have missed my position that other circumstances have other outcomes in law.

*plonk*
So what you think Jay's position implies is that if someone is climbing you have a right to shoot them without any liability because of the inherent risk? You don't think that is stretching his position at all?

Let me restate the specific claim I made for the benefit of moose_shit_for_brains. I said, "Negligence is not a cause of action when the plaintiff has knowingly participated in a dangerous sport." I was talking about negligence, not murder. And although I didn't explicitly exclude commercial guide services, I think it was unnecessary to do so in the context of the quote I was replying to. And, besides, I agreed with moose-shit in my next post that if the negligent party was a guide that it would be a different story.

So to reiterate and clarify: moose-shit bears the burden of proof that there are circumstances in which a negligent, non-commercial party would be liable for injuries to a climber he sustained while knowingly participating in a dangerous sport. Moose-shit has not provided a single example of such circumstances.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Jan 1, 2011, 4:25 AM)


notapplicable


Jan 1, 2011, 4:54 AM
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jt512 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
While that guy is an ass and clearly in the wrong, it would be nice if the locals policed themselves. That route is not steep enough to make cleaning the draws at the end of the day a difficult task, so the only really viable reason for leaving them is out the window.

Don't be lazy people. A wall superfluously littered with draws just looks trashy.

Oh, for heaven's sakes, it's 5.14. You're not even remotely qualified to have an opinion, much less express one. Let's see if you can even put the draws up, and even if you can, how much energy you have left to then productively work the route on the same day.

Jay

You don't have to climb .14 to look up at a wall covered in draws and see how tacky it looks.

You don't even have to be a climber, for that matter.


redlude97


Jan 1, 2011, 5:01 AM
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notapplicable wrote:
jt512 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
While that guy is an ass and clearly in the wrong, it would be nice if the locals policed themselves. That route is not steep enough to make cleaning the draws at the end of the day a difficult task, so the only really viable reason for leaving them is out the window.

Don't be lazy people. A wall superfluously littered with draws just looks trashy.

Oh, for heaven's sakes, it's 5.14. You're not even remotely qualified to have an opinion, much less express one. Let's see if you can even put the draws up, and even if you can, how much energy you have left to then productively work the route on the same day.

Jay

You don't have to climb .14 to look up at a wall covered in draws chalk and see how tacky it looks.

You don't even have to be a climber, for that matter.
Have you climbed at smith?


notapplicable


Jan 1, 2011, 5:08 AM
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redlude97 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
jt512 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
While that guy is an ass and clearly in the wrong, it would be nice if the locals policed themselves. That route is not steep enough to make cleaning the draws at the end of the day a difficult task, so the only really viable reason for leaving them is out the window.

Don't be lazy people. A wall superfluously littered with draws just looks trashy.

Oh, for heaven's sakes, it's 5.14. You're not even remotely qualified to have an opinion, much less express one. Let's see if you can even put the draws up, and even if you can, how much energy you have left to then productively work the route on the same day.

Jay

You don't have to climb .14 to look up at a wall covered in draws chalk and see how tacky it looks.

You don't even have to be a climber, for that matter.
Have you climbed at smith?

Heh

And then there's that...


redlude97


Jan 1, 2011, 5:20 AM
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notapplicable wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
jt512 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
While that guy is an ass and clearly in the wrong, it would be nice if the locals policed themselves. That route is not steep enough to make cleaning the draws at the end of the day a difficult task, so the only really viable reason for leaving them is out the window.

Don't be lazy people. A wall superfluously littered with draws just looks trashy.

Oh, for heaven's sakes, it's 5.14. You're not even remotely qualified to have an opinion, much less express one. Let's see if you can even put the draws up, and even if you can, how much energy you have left to then productively work the route on the same day.

Jay

You don't have to climb .14 to look up at a wall covered in draws chalk and see how tacky it looks.

You don't even have to be a climber, for that matter.
Have you climbed at smith?

Heh

And then there's that...
I think in general that the issue of aesthetics in well developed crags(not alpine/wilderness) is more of an issue with climbers than nonclimbers. In general most hikers etc i've come across at various crags in the northwest are more excited to see climbers in action and have never made negative comments about bolts, anchors, chalk, or draws on the walls. The main areas around smith are hardly a wilderness environment, and cater almost exclusively to climbers. its funny where people draw the line for tackyness in climbing.


jt512


Jan 1, 2011, 5:43 AM
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redlude97 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
jt512 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
While that guy is an ass and clearly in the wrong, it would be nice if the locals policed themselves. That route is not steep enough to make cleaning the draws at the end of the day a difficult task, so the only really viable reason for leaving them is out the window.

Don't be lazy people. A wall superfluously littered with draws just looks trashy.

Oh, for heaven's sakes, it's 5.14. You're not even remotely qualified to have an opinion, much less express one. Let's see if you can even put the draws up, and even if you can, how much energy you have left to then productively work the route on the same day.

Jay

You don't have to climb .14 to look up at a wall covered in draws chalk and see how tacky it looks.

You don't even have to be a climber, for that matter.
Have you climbed at smith?

Heh

And then there's that...
I think in general that the issue of aesthetics in well developed crags(not alpine/wilderness) is more of an issue with climbers than nonclimbers. In general most hikers etc i've come across at various crags in the northwest are more excited to see climbers in action and have never made negative comments about bolts, anchors, chalk, or draws on the walls.

That has been my experience as well. "Look, Martha, it's climbers. How do they get the rope up there, anyway?"

Jay


jt512


Jan 1, 2011, 5:50 AM
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notapplicable wrote:
jt512 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
While that guy is an ass and clearly in the wrong, it would be nice if the locals policed themselves. That route is not steep enough to make cleaning the draws at the end of the day a difficult task, so the only really viable reason for leaving them is out the window.

Don't be lazy people. A wall superfluously littered with draws just looks trashy.

Oh, for heaven's sakes, it's 5.14. You're not even remotely qualified to have an opinion, much less express one. Let's see if you can even put the draws up, and even if you can, how much energy you have left to then productively work the route on the same day.

Jay

You don't have to climb .14 to look up at a wall covered in draws and see how tacky it looks.

You don't even have to be a climber, for that matter.

I wasn't criticizing the "trashy" comment. I was criticizing your ability to judge how difficult it is to hang draws on a 5.14. Although after reading your post, you didn't comment on the difficulty of hanging the draws, but on cleaning them. But then you missed the point of leaving of the draws up, which is the difficulty of hanging them again, given that by definition of "project," climbing the route is currently too hard for you.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Jan 1, 2011, 5:51 AM)


notapplicable


Jan 1, 2011, 6:07 AM
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redlude97 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
jt512 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
While that guy is an ass and clearly in the wrong, it would be nice if the locals policed themselves. That route is not steep enough to make cleaning the draws at the end of the day a difficult task, so the only really viable reason for leaving them is out the window.

Don't be lazy people. A wall superfluously littered with draws just looks trashy.

Oh, for heaven's sakes, it's 5.14. You're not even remotely qualified to have an opinion, much less express one. Let's see if you can even put the draws up, and even if you can, how much energy you have left to then productively work the route on the same day.

Jay

You don't have to climb .14 to look up at a wall covered in draws chalk and see how tacky it looks.

You don't even have to be a climber, for that matter.
Have you climbed at smith?

Heh

And then there's that...
I think in general that the issue of aesthetics in well developed crags(not alpine/wilderness) is more of an issue with climbers than nonclimbers. In general most hikers etc i've come across at various crags in the northwest are more excited to see climbers in action and have never made negative comments about bolts, anchors, chalk, or draws on the walls. The main areas around smith are hardly a wilderness environment, and cater almost exclusively to climbers. its funny where people draw the line for tackyness in climbing.

And it should be an issues with the climbers. I personally think all the chalked up holds look like shit too but I do use chalk. And so does everyone else, which is what makes it a problem and everyone would have to stop using it to solve that problem. Which would be great but is not realistic.

The draws are an area where a single climber can make a huge difference though and is a much more realistic goal.

But yes, I am a hypocrite and not proud of it.


jt512


Jan 1, 2011, 6:13 AM
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notapplicable wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
jt512 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
While that guy is an ass and clearly in the wrong, it would be nice if the locals policed themselves. That route is not steep enough to make cleaning the draws at the end of the day a difficult task, so the only really viable reason for leaving them is out the window.

Don't be lazy people. A wall superfluously littered with draws just looks trashy.

Oh, for heaven's sakes, it's 5.14. You're not even remotely qualified to have an opinion, much less express one. Let's see if you can even put the draws up, and even if you can, how much energy you have left to then productively work the route on the same day.

Jay

You don't have to climb .14 to look up at a wall covered in draws chalk and see how tacky it looks.

You don't even have to be a climber, for that matter.
Have you climbed at smith?

Heh

And then there's that...
I think in general that the issue of aesthetics in well developed crags(not alpine/wilderness) is more of an issue with climbers than nonclimbers. In general most hikers etc i've come across at various crags in the northwest are more excited to see climbers in action and have never made negative comments about bolts, anchors, chalk, or draws on the walls. The main areas around smith are hardly a wilderness environment, and cater almost exclusively to climbers. its funny where people draw the line for tackyness in climbing.

And it should be an issues with the climbers. I personally think all the chalked up holds look like shit too but I do use chalk. And so does everyone else, which is what makes it a problem and everyone would have to stop using it to solve that problem. Which would be great but is not realistic.

The draws are an area where a single climber can make a huge difference though and is a much more realistic goal.

But yes, I am a hypocrite and not proud of it.

I think walls look better with chalk and draws on them, so I'm not a hypocrite.

Jay


notapplicable


Jan 1, 2011, 6:24 AM
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jt512 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
jt512 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
While that guy is an ass and clearly in the wrong, it would be nice if the locals policed themselves. That route is not steep enough to make cleaning the draws at the end of the day a difficult task, so the only really viable reason for leaving them is out the window.

Don't be lazy people. A wall superfluously littered with draws just looks trashy.

Oh, for heaven's sakes, it's 5.14. You're not even remotely qualified to have an opinion, much less express one. Let's see if you can even put the draws up, and even if you can, how much energy you have left to then productively work the route on the same day.

Jay

You don't have to climb .14 to look up at a wall covered in draws and see how tacky it looks.

You don't even have to be a climber, for that matter.

I wasn't criticizing the "trashy" comment. I was criticizing your ability to judge how difficult it is to hang draws on a 5.14. Although after reading your post, you didn't comment on the difficulty of hanging the draws, but on cleaning them. But then you missed the point of leaving of the draws up, which is the difficulty of hanging them again, given that by definition of "project," climbing the route is currently too hard for you.

Jay

I'm not saying you don't loose some advantage by taking them down, you clearly do. If climbing a neighboring route and prehanging them on rappel is an option then I'd go that route, if it's not then leaving them up becomes a bit more defensible IMO.

I've never climbed at Smith but the pictures make it look like the cliff top access is not ideal so maybe reaching the anchors via other means is not really an option. If it is though, someone is just being lazy...


notapplicable


Jan 1, 2011, 6:27 AM
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jt512 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
jt512 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
While that guy is an ass and clearly in the wrong, it would be nice if the locals policed themselves. That route is not steep enough to make cleaning the draws at the end of the day a difficult task, so the only really viable reason for leaving them is out the window.

Don't be lazy people. A wall superfluously littered with draws just looks trashy.

Oh, for heaven's sakes, it's 5.14. You're not even remotely qualified to have an opinion, much less express one. Let's see if you can even put the draws up, and even if you can, how much energy you have left to then productively work the route on the same day.

Jay

You don't have to climb .14 to look up at a wall covered in draws chalk and see how tacky it looks.

You don't even have to be a climber, for that matter.
Have you climbed at smith?

Heh

And then there's that...
I think in general that the issue of aesthetics in well developed crags(not alpine/wilderness) is more of an issue with climbers than nonclimbers. In general most hikers etc i've come across at various crags in the northwest are more excited to see climbers in action and have never made negative comments about bolts, anchors, chalk, or draws on the walls. The main areas around smith are hardly a wilderness environment, and cater almost exclusively to climbers. its funny where people draw the line for tackyness in climbing.

And it should be an issues with the climbers. I personally think all the chalked up holds look like shit too but I do use chalk. And so does everyone else, which is what makes it a problem and everyone would have to stop using it to solve that problem. Which would be great but is not realistic.

The draws are an area where a single climber can make a huge difference though and is a much more realistic goal.

But yes, I am a hypocrite and not proud of it.

I think walls look better with chalk and draws on them, so I'm not a hypocrite.

Jay

You're weird


moose_droppings


Jan 1, 2011, 7:04 AM
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redlude97 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
I didn't misrepresent your position that assumption of risk trumps all. I gave you an example that clearly fell within your parameters and is exempt from your position. You on the other hand have missed my position that other circumstances have other outcomes in law.

*plonk*
So what you think Jay's position implies is that if someone is climbing you have a right to shoot them without any liability because of the inherent risk? You don't think that is stretching his position at all?

How could you possible stretch something that far out of context? Your original position was that the landowner is not responsible if he is not paid, and I gave a counter scenario that opposes your original assertion. Now your interpreting that I said the landowner can shoot without liability because of inherent risk. I mean really, WTF. You need to go back and reread.

Cutting a persons ropes to far out for you, fine , there are 1000's of different scenarios. If his tractor got away from him and it went over the cliff and crushed you, this would be a circumstance that could make him liable even if he didn't charge you for using his land. Before you and Jay go off and say this has nothing to do with inherent risk of climbing and such, remember, it was your assertion that a landowner can't be held liable since he didn't charge the person for use of his land. I merely presented you a situation which contradicts your assertion without changing your statement. Many people, especially lawyers, wouldn't consider that an inherent risk of using his property and that it should of been anticipated and accepted as a reason for the landowner not be held liable. Inherent risks and assumption of risk have limitations.

Jay and you are both intentionally ignoring that I had originally stated that not all liability claims are the same and need to be put into context with the circumstances. Different circumstances to both of your prior scenarios can change the outcome without changing either of your stated assertions.
But now neither of you will except anything that doesn't fit your ever narrowing tolerances. It's a given if we restrain the circumstances that you and Jay want to impose then that someone probably won't be held liable. All I've said throughout is that each case is different and not all cases will withstand either of your initial asserted defenses of assuming risks or inherent risk.


Jay, I thought you had already sheltered yourself from my post. Please continue with that since I won't be responding to your belittling ad hominem attacks which are an ever increasingly hallmark to your debates. Your personal attacks don't warrant a response.



Edited because it's late and I'm tired.


(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Jan 1, 2011, 7:20 AM)


jt512


Jan 1, 2011, 7:21 AM
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moose_droppings wrote:
Jay, I thought you had already sheltered yourself from my post. Please continue with that since I won't be responding to your belittling ad hominem attacks which are an ever increasingly hallmark to your debates. Your personal attacks don't warrant a response.

The problem is that you're actually stupid, so referring to you as an idiot isn't actually a personal attack, but merely a fact.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Jan 1, 2011, 7:21 AM)


jt512


Jan 1, 2011, 7:24 AM
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moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
I didn't misrepresent your position that assumption of risk trumps all. I gave you an example that clearly fell within your parameters and is exempt from your position. You on the other hand have missed my position that other circumstances have other outcomes in law.

*plonk*
So what you think Jay's position implies is that if someone is climbing you have a right to shoot them without any liability because of the inherent risk? You don't think that is stretching his position at all?

How could you possible stretch something that far out of context? Your original position was that the landowner is not responsible if he is not paid, and I gave a counter scenario that opposes your original assertion. Now your interpreting that I said the landowner can shoot without liability because of inherent risk. I mean really, WTF. You need to go back and reread.

Cutting a persons ropes to far out for you, fine , there are 1000's of different scenarios. If his tractor got away from him and it went over the cliff and crushed you, this would be a circumstance that could make him liable even if he didn't charge you for using his land.

Similarly if a United Airlines 747 dropped an engine onto him he could sue United Airlines, yet neither scenario has anything to do with the subject.

Jay


moose_droppings


Jan 1, 2011, 8:41 AM
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jt512 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
I didn't misrepresent your position that assumption of risk trumps all. I gave you an example that clearly fell within your parameters and is exempt from your position. You on the other hand have missed my position that other circumstances have other outcomes in law.

*plonk*
So what you think Jay's position implies is that if someone is climbing you have a right to shoot them without any liability because of the inherent risk? You don't think that is stretching his position at all?

How could you possible stretch something that far out of context? Your original position was that the landowner is not responsible if he is not paid, and I gave a counter scenario that opposes your original assertion. Now your interpreting that I said the landowner can shoot without liability because of inherent risk. I mean really, WTF. You need to go back and reread.

Cutting a persons ropes to far out for you, fine , there are 1000's of different scenarios. If his tractor got away from him and it went over the cliff and crushed you, this would be a circumstance that could make him liable even if he didn't charge you for using his land................................................................snip snip snip

Similarly if a United Airlines 747 dropped an engine onto him he could sue United Airlines, yet neither scenario has anything to do with the subject.

Jay

Still refuse to take things in their full context. Now lets show what the very next line of that quote is.

moose_droppings wrote:
Before you and Jay go off and say this has nothing to do with inherent risk of climbing and such, remember, it was your assertion that a landowner can't be held liable since he didn't charge the person for use of his land. I merely presented you a situation which contradicts your assertion without changing your statement. Many people, especially lawyers, wouldn't consider that an inherent risk of using his property and that it should of been anticipated and accepted as a reason for the landowner not be held liable. Inherent risks and assumption of risk have limitations.

Your so simple to predict.

I guess if you can't dazzle them with brilliance, you can always try to baffle them with bullshit.


I almost stooped to your level and was going to do some name calling.
God how petty that would of been.


gosharks


Jan 1, 2011, 10:31 AM
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notapplicable wrote:
I've never climbed at Smith but the pictures make it look like the cliff top access is not ideal so maybe reaching the anchors via other means is not really an option. If it is though, someone is just being lazy...
Lol.

"not ideal," especially at Picnic Lunch Wall, would be putting it lightly.


Partner camhead


Jan 1, 2011, 4:46 PM
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it's really funny to compare and contrast the development of this thread and its sister thread on mountainproject.


socalclimber


Jan 1, 2011, 5:20 PM
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tripperjm wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
adam14113 wrote:
I wouldn't have been as nice as those guys

I was amazed at how civil they were to him. And, at the thief's unconcern about theft.

taking a draw is not against law. in fact it is against the law to leave pieces on the wall and I do not understand why lazy sport climbers have to leave their unsafe draws on every wall.loose some of those fat pounds out of your love handles and carry six freaking draws on your harness and clip and clean it after you are done.And those draws are unsafe cause you do not know how many people have taken a fall on them and one of these days, one will break and kills a climber.

While the thief claimed they were "unsafe" and "badly worn" - they were not. The people who were working that route knew the draws and their history. The thief claimed that (apparently) all the draws on the route were unsafe, but the anchor biners were fine. There was a little discussion there where the owners pointed out that carabiners were normally shaped like the ones that were being stolen. Maybe he mistook bent gates for damage?

ok, well let's say I ended up in the area and somehow I climbed and took a fall where I broke one of those biners.Do local climbers who know the history will take the responsibility if got hurt ?

Well I don't noes about teh local climbers... but ewe can OG BET that there wood be a jiant party hear on teh knob, with people poynting and laughing with red and green arrows. But sadly, that will never happen, cuz ewe don't climb.




jt512


Jan 1, 2011, 5:49 PM
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moose_droppings wrote:
jt512 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
I didn't misrepresent your position that assumption of risk trumps all. I gave you an example that clearly fell within your parameters and is exempt from your position. You on the other hand have missed my position that other circumstances have other outcomes in law.

*plonk*
So what you think Jay's position implies is that if someone is climbing you have a right to shoot them without any liability because of the inherent risk? You don't think that is stretching his position at all?

How could you possible stretch something that far out of context? Your original position was that the landowner is not responsible if he is not paid, and I gave a counter scenario that opposes your original assertion. Now your interpreting that I said the landowner can shoot without liability because of inherent risk. I mean really, WTF. You need to go back and reread.

Cutting a persons ropes to far out for you, fine , there are 1000's of different scenarios. If his tractor got away from him and it went over the cliff and crushed you, this would be a circumstance that could make him liable even if he didn't charge you for using his land................................................................snip snip snip

Similarly if a United Airlines 747 dropped an engine onto him he could sue United Airlines, yet neither scenario has anything to do with the subject.

Jay

Still refuse to take things in their full context. Now lets show what the very next line of that quote is.

moose_droppings wrote:
Before you and Jay go off and say this has nothing to do with inherent risk of climbing and such, remember, it was your assertion that a landowner can't be held liable since he didn't charge the person for use of his land. I merely presented you a situation which contradicts your assertion without changing your statement. Many people, especially lawyers, wouldn't consider that an inherent risk of using his property and that it should of been anticipated and accepted as a reason for the landowner not be held liable. Inherent risks and assumption of risk have limitations.

Yeah, that changes everything. *roll*

http://jt512.dyndns.org/...s/kruger-dunning.pdf

Jay


redlude97


Jan 1, 2011, 6:34 PM
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moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
I didn't misrepresent your position that assumption of risk trumps all. I gave you an example that clearly fell within your parameters and is exempt from your position. You on the other hand have missed my position that other circumstances have other outcomes in law.

*plonk*
So what you think Jay's position implies is that if someone is climbing you have a right to shoot them without any liability because of the inherent risk? You don't think that is stretching his position at all?

How could you possible stretch something that far out of context? Your original position was that the landowner is not responsible if he is not paid, and I gave a counter scenario that opposes your original assertion. Now your interpreting that I said the landowner can shoot without liability because of inherent risk. I mean really, WTF. You need to go back and reread.

Cutting a persons ropes to far out for you, fine , there are 1000's of different scenarios. If his tractor got away from him and it went over the cliff and crushed you, this would be a circumstance that could make him liable even if he didn't charge you for using his land. Before you and Jay go off and say this has nothing to do with inherent risk of climbing and such, remember, it was your assertion that a landowner can't be held liable since he didn't charge the person for use of his land. I merely presented you a situation which contradicts your assertion without changing your statement. Many people, especially lawyers, wouldn't consider that an inherent risk of using his property and that it should of been anticipated and accepted as a reason for the landowner not be held liable. Inherent risks and assumption of risk have limitations.

Jay and you are both intentionally ignoring that I had originally stated that not all liability claims are the same and need to be put into context with the circumstances. Different circumstances to both of your prior scenarios can change the outcome without changing either of your stated assertions.
But now neither of you will except anything that doesn't fit your ever narrowing tolerances. It's a given if we restrain the circumstances that you and Jay want to impose then that someone probably won't be held liable. All I've said throughout is that each case is different and not all cases will withstand either of your initial asserted defenses of assuming risks or inherent risk.


Jay, I thought you had already sheltered yourself from my post. Please continue with that since I won't be responding to your belittling ad hominem attacks which are an ever increasingly hallmark to your debates. Your personal attacks don't warrant a response.



Edited because it's late and I'm tired.
The problem is you took my original comment in this thread, which yes was a general statement, but was stated in the context of this thread, as applying to all cases however far fetched. I thought it would have been pretty obvious we were talking about landowner liability in the direct context related to my quotes, ie normal climbing situations where someone gets hurt, related directly to normal climbing dangers ie bolts breaking, holds, loose rock, decking etc. Not intentionally cutting ropes, suicidal tractors or whatever intentionally obtuse examples you want to imagine up.


jt512


Jan 1, 2011, 6:39 PM
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redlude97 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
I didn't misrepresent your position that assumption of risk trumps all. I gave you an example that clearly fell within your parameters and is exempt from your position. You on the other hand have missed my position that other circumstances have other outcomes in law.

*plonk*
So what you think Jay's position implies is that if someone is climbing you have a right to shoot them without any liability because of the inherent risk? You don't think that is stretching his position at all?

How could you possible stretch something that far out of context? Your original position was that the landowner is not responsible if he is not paid, and I gave a counter scenario that opposes your original assertion. Now your interpreting that I said the landowner can shoot without liability because of inherent risk. I mean really, WTF. You need to go back and reread.

Cutting a persons ropes to far out for you, fine , there are 1000's of different scenarios. If his tractor got away from him and it went over the cliff and crushed you, this would be a circumstance that could make him liable even if he didn't charge you for using his land. Before you and Jay go off and say this has nothing to do with inherent risk of climbing and such, remember, it was your assertion that a landowner can't be held liable since he didn't charge the person for use of his land. I merely presented you a situation which contradicts your assertion without changing your statement. Many people, especially lawyers, wouldn't consider that an inherent risk of using his property and that it should of been anticipated and accepted as a reason for the landowner not be held liable. Inherent risks and assumption of risk have limitations.

Jay and you are both intentionally ignoring that I had originally stated that not all liability claims are the same and need to be put into context with the circumstances. Different circumstances to both of your prior scenarios can change the outcome without changing either of your stated assertions.
But now neither of you will except anything that doesn't fit your ever narrowing tolerances. It's a given if we restrain the circumstances that you and Jay want to impose then that someone probably won't be held liable. All I've said throughout is that each case is different and not all cases will withstand either of your initial asserted defenses of assuming risks or inherent risk.


Jay, I thought you had already sheltered yourself from my post. Please continue with that since I won't be responding to your belittling ad hominem attacks which are an ever increasingly hallmark to your debates. Your personal attacks don't warrant a response.



Edited because it's late and I'm tired.
The problem is you took my original comment in this thread, which yes was a general statement, but was stated in the context of this thread, as applying to all cases however far fetched. I thought it would have been pretty obvious we were talking about landowner liability in the direct context related to my quotes, ie normal climbing situations where someone gets hurt, related directly to normal climbing dangers ie bolts breaking, holds, loose rock, decking etc. Not intentionally cutting ropes, suicidal tractors or whatever intentionally obtuse examples you want to imagine up.

You're wasting your time. He's never going to understand.

Jay


majid_sabet


Jan 1, 2011, 8:03 PM
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bearbreeder wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
I am the black sheep in RC and there is team of wabbit haters who are looking forward to kick my as* so I am not a VIP round here but I am known to talk when I see a problem. You may call this an insult or disrespect or whatever but I am not shy to stand for what I think is right.

I am not always right

taking all the draws as they must all be obviously unsafe .....claiming they are yours ... bashing "pussies" for not being able to clean a 5.14 every time when you cant even do a 5.8

how righteous thoult art oh holy majid Tongue

this thread was all about thief till I mentioned unsafe and then the whole train derailed in to another dimension. Now, that is called Wabitt Power


chadnsc


Jan 1, 2011, 8:09 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
I am the black sheep in RC and there is team of wabbit haters who are looking forward to kick my as* so I am not a VIP round here but I am known to talk when I see a problem. You may call this an insult or disrespect or whatever but I am not shy to stand for what I think is right.

I am not always right

taking all the draws as they must all be obviously unsafe .....claiming they are yours ... bashing "pussies" for not being able to clean a 5.14 every time when you cant even do a 5.8

how righteous thoult art oh holy majid Tongue

this thread was all about thief till I mentioned unsafe and then the whole train derailed in to another dimension. Now, that is called Wabitt Power

Oh yeah midget, cuz Jay and Moose arguing about liability for the last four pages all had to do with you.

You're like a child midget . . .


areyoumydude


Jan 1, 2011, 10:19 PM
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camhead wrote:
it's really funny to compare and contrast the development of this thread and its sister thread on mountainproject.

There's a gud one on the taco too.


bearbreeder


Jan 1, 2011, 10:24 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
this thread was all about thief till I mentioned unsafe and then the whole train derailed in to another dimension. Now, that is called Wabitt Power

mmmmmm ... so you have special powers now?

or just supporting common thievery under the guise of "safety"

little majid bunny Tongue


moose_droppings


Jan 2, 2011, 12:21 AM
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redlude97 wrote:


The problem is you took my original comment in this thread, which yes was a general statement, but was stated in the context of this thread, as applying to all cases however far fetched. I thought it would have been pretty obvious we were talking about landowner liability in the direct context related to my quotes, ie normal climbing situations where someone gets hurt, related directly to normal climbing dangers ie bolts breaking, holds, loose rock, decking etc. Not intentionally cutting ropes, suicidal tractors or whatever intentionally obtuse examples you want to imagine up.

The conversation evolved and expanded and you were a major contributor to this. You brought in bolts and anchors, you brought in landowners.

By the time I stated that "it depends" the conversation was already covering anchors, bolts and draws, and soon to be landlords.

Any liability case is going to be judged by the circumstances. I haven't once excluded a cut and dried case from the assumption of risks clause, if that is what the circumstances are, then it will fall under that. I've maintained throughout that each liability case is different and needs to be examined to include all the circumstances. Then let the case fall were it may. I've only giving examples that fall outside the risk assumption clause to show you and Jay that not everything falls under a blanket statement.

Also, unlike Jay, I hold no ill feelings toward you from this discussion. Everyone has their own perspective and opinion.

Please read through this redlude97. I really think you need to see what and when it was said. It's corresponds to our post in chronological order. I've paraphrased to shorten it up.

The thread started with a guy taking draws.
Discussion then danced around whether or not the draws should be left there. Then on to who could be liable.

You then said there was a presedence for such liability regarding chains and bolts. You added it would probably be the same for quickdraws.

I asked for a legal reference.

You pointed me to another thread.

I pointed out that the other thread was opinion, but no presedence in regard of liability. I also acknowledged that there probably isn't by offering to read any someone could point me to one. I then made this statement.
"I also believe it's not as simple as an anchor or a quickdraw failure, I'm sure there would many other factors and circumstances to consider that would have to be taken into account and each incident would have it's own threshold to either side of the argument. "
This statement does not in any way say who is right or wrong, it's says it depends on circumstances.


You replied,
"Precedence wasn't the right word. When I said that what I meant was that there had been many bolt failures in the past. There are manly bolts at many crags throughout the us and no one has been sued yet. I think this mostly has to do with the fact that almost everyone associates climbing with inherent danger and that any fixed protection is use at ur own risk ",
I do agree with that.

Jay joins and says,
"Negligence is not a cause of action when the plaintiff has knowingly participated in a dangerous sport. Therefore, if the person who hung the draws was "negligent" with respect to their condition, he would not be legally responsible for injuries resulting from someone who relied on them."


I took his blanket of someone being negligent is excused under the iron clad "assumption of risk" clause and shot a hole in it.

Jay cried foul but later acknowledged that it was within his parameters.

I then reminded him that all my original statement implied was, it depends on the circumstances.

Jay didn't like "it depends".

I said blanket statements aren't good.

You then said my example is irrelevant since we were talking quickdraws, not anchors. Then you said,
"Its similar to landowners not being liable for climbers on their land as long as they don't charge a fee to use it. Once a fee is assessed liability is on the landowner ".

I then quoted you as being the one that brought anchors into this conversation a long ways back.

Then I pointed out your landowner blanket statement.

You then bring up limiting liability.

I point your assumption of everything being cut and dried.

You then ask for cases. Earlier neither you or me didn't think there were any, Jay tries this trap later too. You reassert that landowners aren't liable if they don't charge, the opposite of your 1st part of that post.

I try to get it across to you, and knowing Jay's reading, that all I'm pointing out through this entire drift that no case is perfectly clear. Yes sometimes a case may fall under the assumption of risk clause and sometimes not, it depends on circumstances.
I give another example, far fetched but within the liability between a landowner and a climber.


Jay accuses me of strawman.

I showed him how it wasn't.

You then ask for a case that prior to this we have both acknowledged probably isn't there.

Jay admits without saying so he hadn't thought of different circumstances that fit within the parameters.

You took a large leap to construe something that wasn't there.

Jay acknowledges my example as fair.

I say your falling behind in what you've said. I also give you an example you don't like that again falls within your parameters.
I try one last desperate time to explain that cases are different depending on the circumstances and that assumption of risk doesn't excuse all cases. I point out that it's a given if the right circumstances are meet, assumption laws will apply. It all depends, you two can't grasp that.
I also don't believe I'll address any more of Jay's lowball attacks.

Jay makes a rabid post.

Jay then makes a funny post to divert attention from real discussion with a strawman that relies on a third party.

I unfortunately get drawn back in to point out his silly tricks.

Over and out.













.


crazy_fingers84


Jan 2, 2011, 1:18 AM
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moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:


The problem is you took my original comment in this thread, which yes was a general statement, but was stated in the context of this thread, as applying to all cases however far fetched. I thought it would have been pretty obvious we were talking about landowner liability in the direct context related to my quotes, ie normal climbing situations where someone gets hurt, related directly to normal climbing dangers ie bolts breaking, holds, loose rock, decking etc. Not intentionally cutting ropes, suicidal tractors or whatever intentionally obtuse examples you want to imagine up.

The conversation evolved and expanded and you were a major contributor to this. You brought in bolts and anchors, you brought in landowners.

By the time I stated that "it depends" the conversation was already covering anchors, bolts and draws, and soon to be landlords.

Any liability case is going to be judged by the circumstances. I haven't once excluded a cut and dried case from the assumption of risks clause, if that is what the circumstances are, then it will fall under that. I've maintained throughout that each liability case is different and needs to be examined to include all the circumstances. Then let the case fall were it may. I've only giving examples that fall outside the risk assumption clause to show you and Jay that not everything falls under a blanket statement.

Also, unlike Jay, I hold no ill feelings toward you from this discussion. Everyone has their own perspective and opinion.

Please read through this redlude97. I really think you need to see what and when it was said. It's corresponds to our post in chronological order. I've paraphrased to shorten it up.

The thread started with a guy taking draws.
Discussion then danced around whether or not the draws should be left there. Then on to who could be liable.

You then said there was a presedence for such liability regarding chains and bolts. You added it would probably be the same for quickdraws.

I asked for a legal reference.

You pointed me to another thread.

I pointed out that the other thread was opinion, but no presedence in regard of liability. I also acknowledged that there probably isn't by offering to read any someone could point me to one. I then made this statement.
"I also believe it's not as simple as an anchor or a quickdraw failure, I'm sure there would many other factors and circumstances to consider that would have to be taken into account and each incident would have it's own threshold to either side of the argument. "
This statement does not in any way say who is right or wrong, it's says it depends on circumstances.


You replied,
"Precedence wasn't the right word. When I said that what I meant was that there had been many bolt failures in the past. There are manly bolts at many crags throughout the us and no one has been sued yet. I think this mostly has to do with the fact that almost everyone associates climbing with inherent danger and that any fixed protection is use at ur own risk ",
I do agree with that.

Jay joins and says,
"Negligence is not a cause of action when the plaintiff has knowingly participated in a dangerous sport. Therefore, if the person who hung the draws was "negligent" with respect to their condition, he would not be legally responsible for injuries resulting from someone who relied on them."


I took his blanket of someone being negligent is excused under the iron clad "assumption of risk" clause and shot a hole in it.

Jay cried foul but later acknowledged that it was within his parameters.

I then reminded him that all my original statement implied was, it depends on the circumstances.

Jay didn't like "it depends".

I said blanket statements aren't good.

You then said my example is irrelevant since we were talking quickdraws, not anchors. Then you said,
"Its similar to landowners not being liable for climbers on their land as long as they don't charge a fee to use it. Once a fee is assessed liability is on the landowner ".

I then quoted you as being the one that brought anchors into this conversation a long ways back.

Then I pointed out your landowner blanket statement.

You then bring up limiting liability.

I point your assumption of everything being cut and dried.

You then ask for cases. Earlier neither you or me didn't think there were any, Jay tries this trap later too. You reassert that landowners aren't liable if they don't charge, the opposite of your 1st part of that post.

I try to get it across to you, and knowing Jay's reading, that all I'm pointing out through this entire drift that no case is perfectly clear. Yes sometimes a case may fall under the assumption of risk clause and sometimes not, it depends on circumstances.
I give another example, far fetched but within the liability between a landowner and a climber.


Jay accuses me of strawman.

I showed him how it wasn't.

You then ask for a case that prior to this we have both acknowledged probably isn't there.

Jay admits without saying so he hadn't thought of different circumstances that fit within the parameters.

You took a large leap to construe something that wasn't there.

Jay acknowledges my example as fair.

I say your falling behind in what you've said. I also give you an example you don't like that again falls within your parameters.
I try one last desperate time to explain that cases are different depending on the circumstances and that assumption of risk doesn't excuse all cases. I point out that it's a given if the right circumstances are meet, assumption laws will apply. It all depends, you two can't grasp that.
I also don't believe I'll address any more of Jay's lowball attacks.

Jay makes a rabid post.

Jay then makes a funny post to divert attention from real discussion with a strawman that relies on a third party.

I unfortunately get drawn back in to point out his silly tricks.

Over and out.

.


p.s. I'm not reading that...


evosteve


Jan 2, 2011, 1:45 AM
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Well ive never climbed there before,but our local ethics and rules here are that no new fixed gear can be left without approval.However if i came across a few draws at the end of the day with no one else around(unless they were part of a belay)then i would take them down,then post up on my local forum to find the owner.In our area we could loose access if someone keeps leaving gear up with out permission.Also if i caught someone pulling my gear and i was just taking a piss or abreak....then it would get nasty. The guy in the vid was just trying to cover his ass though. A 5.14....thats awesome shit.


jt512


Jan 2, 2011, 2:37 AM
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Re: [moose_droppings] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:


The problem is you took my original comment in this thread, which yes was a general statement, but was stated in the context of this thread, as applying to all cases however far fetched. I thought it would have been pretty obvious we were talking about landowner liability in the direct context related to my quotes, ie normal climbing situations where someone gets hurt, related directly to normal climbing dangers ie bolts breaking, holds, loose rock, decking etc. Not intentionally cutting ropes, suicidal tractors or whatever intentionally obtuse examples you want to imagine up.

The conversation evolved and expanded and you were a major contributor to this. You brought in bolts and anchors, you brought in landowners.

By the time I stated that "it depends" the conversation was already covering anchors, bolts and draws, and soon to be landlords.

Any liability case is going to be judged by the circumstances. I haven't once excluded a cut and dried case from the assumption of risks clause, if that is what the circumstances are, then it will fall under that. I've maintained throughout that each liability case is different and needs to be examined to include all the circumstances. Then let the case fall were it may. I've only giving examples that fall outside the risk assumption clause to show you and Jay that not everything falls under a blanket statement.

Also, unlike Jay, I hold no ill feelings toward you from this discussion. Everyone has their own perspective and opinion.

Please read through this redlude97. I really think you need to see what and when it was said. It's corresponds to our post in chronological order. I've paraphrased to shorten it up.

The thread started with a guy taking draws.
Discussion then danced around whether or not the draws should be left there. Then on to who could be liable.

You then said there was a presedence for such liability regarding chains and bolts. You added it would probably be the same for quickdraws.

I asked for a legal reference.

You pointed me to another thread.

I pointed out that the other thread was opinion, but no presedence in regard of liability. I also acknowledged that there probably isn't by offering to read any someone could point me to one. I then made this statement.
"I also believe it's not as simple as an anchor or a quickdraw failure, I'm sure there would many other factors and circumstances to consider that would have to be taken into account and each incident would have it's own threshold to either side of the argument. "
This statement does not in any way say who is right or wrong, it's says it depends on circumstances.


You replied,
"Precedence wasn't the right word. When I said that what I meant was that there had been many bolt failures in the past. There are manly bolts at many crags throughout the us and no one has been sued yet. I think this mostly has to do with the fact that almost everyone associates climbing with inherent danger and that any fixed protection is use at ur own risk ",
I do agree with that.

Jay joins and says,
"Negligence is not a cause of action when the plaintiff has knowingly participated in a dangerous sport. Therefore, if the person who hung the draws was "negligent" with respect to their condition, he would not be legally responsible for injuries resulting from someone who relied on them."


I took his blanket of someone being negligent is excused under the iron clad "assumption of risk" clause and shot a hole in it.

Jay cried foul but later acknowledged that it was within his parameters.

I then reminded him that all my original statement implied was, it depends on the circumstances.

Jay didn't like "it depends".

I said blanket statements aren't good.

You then said my example is irrelevant since we were talking quickdraws, not anchors. Then you said,
"Its similar to landowners not being liable for climbers on their land as long as they don't charge a fee to use it. Once a fee is assessed liability is on the landowner ".

I then quoted you as being the one that brought anchors into this conversation a long ways back.

Then I pointed out your landowner blanket statement.

You then bring up limiting liability.

I point your assumption of everything being cut and dried.

You then ask for cases. Earlier neither you or me didn't think there were any, Jay tries this trap later too. You reassert that landowners aren't liable if they don't charge, the opposite of your 1st part of that post.

I try to get it across to you, and knowing Jay's reading, that all I'm pointing out through this entire drift that no case is perfectly clear. Yes sometimes a case may fall under the assumption of risk clause and sometimes not, it depends on circumstances.
I give another example, far fetched but within the liability between a landowner and a climber.


Jay accuses me of strawman.

I showed him how it wasn't.

You then ask for a case that prior to this we have both acknowledged probably isn't there.

Jay admits without saying so he hadn't thought of different circumstances that fit within the parameters.

You took a large leap to construe something that wasn't there.

Jay acknowledges my example as fair.

I say your falling behind in what you've said. I also give you an example you don't like that again falls within your parameters.
I try one last desperate time to explain that cases are different depending on the circumstances and that assumption of risk doesn't excuse all cases. I point out that it's a given if the right circumstances are meet, assumption laws will apply. It all depends, you two can't grasp that.
I also don't believe I'll address any more of Jay's lowball attacks.

Jay makes a rabid post.

Jay then makes a funny post to divert attention from real discussion with a strawman that relies on a third party.

I unfortunately get drawn back in to point out his silly tricks.

Over and out.

Un-fucking-believable.

Jay


lhwang


Jan 2, 2011, 9:36 AM
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Re: [moose_droppings] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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Ok, lawyers correct me, but my understanding is that you basically need to have 4 components in order to have a negligence claim:

1. There has to be a duty of care. If you are paying a professional guide, he definitely owes you a duty of care. Same if you're a doctor and you see a patient in your office. Someone who left their quickdraws on a project does not owe a duty of care to the next random dude who comes along and decides to use them. This is also where a landowner accepting fees becomes potentially difficult because you might argue that he owes you a duty of care.

2. There has to be a breach in the standard of care. So if a guide ties you in using an overhand knot when most climbers would agree that is not the acceptable standard tie-in, that's a breach.

3. There has to be damages or loss of some sort.

4. The damages have to be a direct result of the breach of care.

If you take Jay's "blanket statement" in context, he's right that most climbers would say that climbing is inherently risky, and the onus is on the climber to check the draws that he's clipping. ie that the assumption of risk can bar liability such that there's no longer a duty of care owed. The two conditions for that are that the client must have been made aware of the specific risk, and it doesn't excuse reckless conduct.


(This post was edited by lhwang on Jan 2, 2011, 9:55 AM)


jt512


Jan 2, 2011, 5:04 PM
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Re: [lhwang] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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Assumption of risk is an absolute defense to negligence because it implies that the defendant owed no duty of care. However, after having read the wikipedia article on assumption of risk, I'm a a lot less certain that a negligent belayer could use this defense.

Edit: But here's a case from Michigan where the climber sued his belayer for injuries resulting from his failing to catch him. The belayer asserted assumption of risk and won a summary judggment, which was upheld at the state supreme court. So it seems that the assumption of risk doctrine is quite strictly applied in rock climbing.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Jan 2, 2011, 5:21 PM)


Partner xtrmecat


Jan 2, 2011, 6:08 PM
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Re: [jt512] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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Umm, you guys. We wanted to hash out the little shit who stole draws and got caught. Not the other , and no one is reading the other bullshit. Kindly take you superior intellect and attitudes somewhere else. Kind of a community service to the rest of us.

Please.

We really don't care about the other.

Burly Bob


jt512


Jan 2, 2011, 6:11 PM
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Re: [xtrmecat] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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xtrmecat wrote:
Umm, you guys. We wanted to hash out the little shit who stole draws and got caught. Not the other , and no one is reading the other bullshit. Kindly take you superior intellect and attitudes somewhere else. Kind of a community service to the rest of us.

Please.

We really don't care about the other.

We really don't care what you think.

Jay


Partner xtrmecat


Jan 2, 2011, 6:38 PM
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Re: [jt512] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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That's more than obvious.

There is a place you gentleman can go, it's called the campground, and is a great place for off topic discussion.

Burly Bob


moose_droppings


Jan 2, 2011, 6:39 PM
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Re: [lhwang] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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So, basically, it depends on some of the parameters you laid out ? I'd agree.

If it's as simple as two adults and their just out for an ordinary day of climbing without any extenuating circumstances, then I'd agree that an assumption of risk could be implied.

My first statement took in the context of the conversation that had moved to cases in general involving draws, bolts and anchors.

What if the injured party was a 10 year old?



Bob, conversations evolve, you don't need to follow.


Partner xtrmecat


Jan 2, 2011, 6:48 PM
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Re: [xtrmecat] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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  Here is my response to the topic of discussion written on a forum whose participants have no problem with staying on topic.

I also am of the opinion that this thief knew exactly what he was doing. I also believe that the passiveness shown was of no value other than to allow a thief to walk away to repeat his actions, with some more beta on how to get away with it next time, like late in the day, or earlier, etc.

I am a passive guy for the most part, but have raised my children to be honest. They never got a public embatrassment to get them there, nor a beating. They have had to stand tall in front of the man though, and nothing made me prouder that to tell my son,"be honest and take your licks, you did it." as his advice as to handle a childhood mistake. They also were never reprimanded for not allowing others to take advantage of them.

Those guys just let the thief off, and their posting the video is the internet version of public humiliation. Something I don't particularly see as right, but not so wrong either. Our jails are stuffed with thieves and worse, that stand and take their education/lecture from the cops/judge/probation/parole, and rinse and repeat. And we get to foot the bill for it, weeeee.

Personally, I believe that I would have taken my possessions back, probably with force. Big brother could have gotten involved, if HE wanted to prosecute me. I also think that advice to the other fixed draws locations and accessibility information would have also been dispensed.

And if he would have wanted to go retrieve them to "recycle" them, I am sure it would have been after one of the eyes would have the swelling come down enough to see while sweating his way up, because the headache would feel more like a train wreck than a hangover while performing such a civic task as cleanup and recycling. Not having consequences for ones actions is part of the problem our society currently has, and being this passive just breeds more of it. A mild ass beating wouldn't be as harsh as cutting off the offending hand, but would be more effective than a lecture.

Burly Bob


Copied and pasted because I am still of the same thought, and mostly too lazy to retype it.


Partner camhead


Jan 2, 2011, 7:07 PM
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Re: [xtrmecat] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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xtrmecat wrote:
That's more than obvious.

There is a place you gentleman can go, it's called the campground, and is a great place for off topic discussion.

Burly Bob

Well, Jay doesn't climb any more since he injured himself at the WNSG. So, arguing hypotheticals that are only peripherally linked to climbing is really all he can do.


chadnsc


Jan 2, 2011, 7:33 PM
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Re: [jt512] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
xtrmecat wrote:
Umm, you guys. We wanted to hash out the little shit who stole draws and got caught. Not the other , and no one is reading the other bullshit. Kindly take you superior intellect and attitudes somewhere else. Kind of a community service to the rest of us.

Please.

We really don't care about the other.

We really don't care what you think.

Jay

No, you don’t care what he thinks; stop trying to speak for the entire community.

Why don't moose and you have some manors and continue to argue with each other via PM.


jt512


Jan 2, 2011, 7:53 PM
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Re: [xtrmecat] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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xtrmecat wrote:
That's more than obvious.

There is a place you gentleman can go, it's called the campground, and is a great place for off topic discussion.

Burly Bob

Climber's liability is not a topic for community. Posts complaining about it, however, are, so I suggest that you continue your whining there.

Jay


jt512


Jan 2, 2011, 7:54 PM
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Re: [chadnsc] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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chadnsc wrote:
jt512 wrote:
xtrmecat wrote:
Umm, you guys. We wanted to hash out the little shit who stole draws and got caught. Not the other , and no one is reading the other bullshit. Kindly take you superior intellect and attitudes somewhere else. Kind of a community service to the rest of us.

Please.

We really don't care about the other.

We really don't care what you think.

Jay

No, you don’t care what he thinks; stop trying to speak for the entire community.

Why don't moose and you have some manors and continue to argue with each other via PM.

Chad, we don't care what you think either.

Jay


jt512


Jan 2, 2011, 7:55 PM
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Re: [camhead] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
xtrmecat wrote:
That's more than obvious.

There is a place you gentleman can go, it's called the campground, and is a great place for off topic discussion.

Burly Bob

Well, Jay doesn't climb any more since he injured himself at the WNSG. So, arguing hypotheticals that are only peripherally linked to climbing is really all he can do.

Well, I've been doing something on rocks. How closely it resembles climbing is a matter of opinion.

Jay


notapplicable


Jan 2, 2011, 7:56 PM
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Re: [chadnsc] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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chadnsc wrote:
jt512 wrote:
xtrmecat wrote:
Umm, you guys. We wanted to hash out the little shit who stole draws and got caught. Not the other , and no one is reading the other bullshit. Kindly take you superior intellect and attitudes somewhere else. Kind of a community service to the rest of us.

Please.

We really don't care about the other.

We really don't care what you think.

Jay

No, you don’t care what he thinks; stop trying to speak for the entire community.

Why don't moose and you have some manors and continue to argue with each other via PM.

You are talking to both of them, right?


jt512


Jan 2, 2011, 7:57 PM
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Re: [xtrmecat] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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xtrmecat wrote:
Here is my response to the topic of discussion written on a forum whose participants have no problem with staying on topic.

I also am of the opinion that this thief knew exactly what he was doing.

That's fucking brilliant, Bob. This thread is so much more interesting with 100 posts all saying exactly the same obvious thing.

Jay


sungam


Jan 2, 2011, 8:00 PM
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Re: [jt512] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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HOLY FUCK! THAT DUDEBROHAMSKI HAS A FUKKIN BEARD!!!!! (a topic change was needed?)


jmeizis


Jan 2, 2011, 9:30 PM
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Re: [lhwang] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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I'm not a lawyer but I did stay at a Holiday Inn. Actually I dropped out of law school for what little that's worth.

You're basically right, those are the three parts of proving negligence (damages are assumed, you wouldn't go to court for having fun).

The burden of proof would be on the person suing a route equipper. I'll play that game. I think there is a duty of care by a route equipper. Assumption of some risks does not bar a route equipper from all liability for negligent actions.

According to that wikipedia article assumption of risk applies only to risks at issue that are inherent to that activity. According to ANAM most accidents occur from a fall. Few reported accidents were from equipment failure. Bolts and draws breaking is not an inseperable element of climbing. Just because it happens does not mean it is inherent. Just because we know bolts and draws can break doesn't mean we expect them to, otherwise we'd take further precautions against it. The risk at issue would be a draw breaking. I don't think courts would agree that risk is inherent in climbing, given that it's happened less than 20 times in sixty years according to ANAM.

Even if you did prove that climbers assume that risk you assume the risk of death in surgery. Even so doctors still get sued and still maintain malpractice insurance because of it. I disagree that assumption of risk is an absolute bar against liability.

I would also argue that a route equipper does have a duty of care. They can foreseeably and reasonably realize that their actions, or lack of action to replace worn equipment, may result in injuries. I think any reasonable route equipper would realize that people are going to whip on their gear, probably won't inspect it, and that if they don't replace it on a regular basis then someone could get injured or killed. By opening a route to the public they assume a duty of care. If they don't take reasonable precautions to prevent injuries due to failure of their equipment then they acccept liability if those injuries occur.

Furthermore the implied ownership by route equippers suggests that their is a duty of care. If you're going to say how many bolts go in, come out, or what the route is called, then you have to accept liability if there is an injury due to your action or inaction.

Now if duty of care is established and assumption of risk as a defense of negligence denied then the other parts of a negligence case would depend on the specific circumstances of the situation in determining who was liable and how much so.

Now all this arguing about what the law says is super pointless for three reasons:

1. Even if someone did get hurt by an equipment failure they'd have a hard time finding the route equipper. Not like people are going to tell them who it is if they let on they plan to sue. Even a lot of locals don't know who their route equippers are.

2. Even if someone found the route equipper they'd have a hard time finding a lawyer to pursue such a case. Lawyers go after the person with the deepest pockets that they can get a good case for. Chances are that's not the route equipper. The manufacturers don't hold enough liability to make a reasonable case, and since there is no insurance for route equipping the only person available to sue is the route equipper. There pockets are generally too shallow for a lawyer to waste their time on. As for landowners and public lands. Those would be both difficult sells I think. It's unreasonable to expect landowners and the government to inspect all the routes that climbers put up. They lack ability in many different ways. Now if the land owner was also the route equipper then that's different.

3. I don't know of any specific case law to support either side of this argument. Unless someone comes up with some there's no way in hell to determine what a group of jurors and a judge would find because theirs no way to determine what the composition of that jury would be and where the judgement would take place.


jmeizis


Jan 2, 2011, 9:31 PM
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Re: [jmeizis] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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By the way, I've lived in the Springs for a few years. I've never seen that guy. I take it nobody caught his name?


notapplicable


Jan 2, 2011, 9:52 PM
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Re: [jmeizis] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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jmeizis wrote:
I'm not a lawyer but I did stay at a Holiday Inn. Actually I dropped out of law school for what little that's worth.

You're basically right, those are the three parts of proving negligence (damages are assumed, you wouldn't go to court for having fun).

The burden of proof would be on the person suing a route equipper. I'll play that game. I think there is a duty of care by a route equipper. Assumption of some risks does not bar a route equipper from all liability for negligent actions.

According to that wikipedia article assumption of risk applies only to risks at issue that are inherent to that activity. According to ANAM most accidents occur from a fall. Few reported accidents were from equipment failure. Bolts and draws breaking is not an inseperable element of climbing. Just because it happens does not mean it is inherent. Just because we know bolts and draws can break doesn't mean we expect them to, otherwise we'd take further precautions against it. The risk at issue would be a draw breaking. I don't think courts would agree that risk is inherent in climbing, given that it's happened less than 20 times in sixty years according to ANAM.

Even if you did prove that climbers assume that risk you assume the risk of death in surgery. Even so doctors still get sued and still maintain malpractice insurance because of it. I disagree that assumption of risk is an absolute bar against liability.

I would also argue that a route equipper does have a duty of care. They can foreseeably and reasonably realize that their actions, or lack of action to replace worn equipment, may result in injuries. I think any reasonable route equipper would realize that people are going to whip on their gear, probably won't inspect it, and that if they don't replace it on a regular basis then someone could get injured or killed. By opening a route to the public they assume a duty of care. If they don't take reasonable precautions to prevent injuries due to failure of their equipment then they acccept liability if those injuries occur.

Furthermore the implied ownership by route equippers suggests that their is a duty of care. If you're going to say how many bolts go in, come out, or what the route is called, then you have to accept liability if there is an injury due to your action or inaction.

Now if duty of care is established and assumption of risk as a defense of negligence denied then the other parts of a negligence case would depend on the specific circumstances of the situation in determining who was liable and how much so.

Now all this arguing about what the law says is super pointless for three reasons:

1. Even if someone did get hurt by an equipment failure they'd have a hard time finding the route equipper. Not like people are going to tell them who it is if they let on they plan to sue. Even a lot of locals don't know who their route equippers are.

2. Even if someone found the route equipper they'd have a hard time finding a lawyer to pursue such a case. Lawyers go after the person with the deepest pockets that they can get a good case for. Chances are that's not the route equipper. The manufacturers don't hold enough liability to make a reasonable case, and since there is no insurance for route equipping the only person available to sue is the route equipper. There pockets are generally too shallow for a lawyer to waste their time on. As for landowners and public lands. Those would be both difficult sells I think. It's unreasonable to expect landowners and the government to inspect all the routes that climbers put up. They lack ability in many different ways. Now if the land owner was also the route equipper then that's different.

3. I don't know of any specific case law to support either side of this argument. Unless someone comes up with some there's no way in hell to determine what a group of jurors and a judge would find because theirs no way to determine what the composition of that jury would be and where the judgement would take place.

You can go to hell.

And I sincerely hope your ideal does not become legal precedent.


redlude97


Jan 2, 2011, 10:48 PM
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moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:


The problem is you took my original comment in this thread, which yes was a general statement, but was stated in the context of this thread, as applying to all cases however far fetched. I thought it would have been pretty obvious we were talking about landowner liability in the direct context related to my quotes, ie normal climbing situations where someone gets hurt, related directly to normal climbing dangers ie bolts breaking, holds, loose rock, decking etc. Not intentionally cutting ropes, suicidal tractors or whatever intentionally obtuse examples you want to imagine up.

The conversation evolved and expanded and you were a major contributor to this. You brought in bolts and anchors, you brought in landowners.

By the time I stated that "it depends" the conversation was already covering anchors, bolts and draws, and soon to be landlords.

Any liability case is going to be judged by the circumstances. I haven't once excluded a cut and dried case from the assumption of risks clause, if that is what the circumstances are, then it will fall under that. I've maintained throughout that each liability case is different and needs to be examined to include all the circumstances. Then let the case fall were it may. I've only giving examples that fall outside the risk assumption clause to show you and Jay that not everything falls under a blanket statement.

Also, unlike Jay, I hold no ill feelings toward you from this discussion. Everyone has their own perspective and opinion.

Please read through this redlude97. I really think you need to see what and when it was said. It's corresponds to our post in chronological order. I've paraphrased to shorten it up.

The thread started with a guy taking draws.
Discussion then danced around whether or not the draws should be left there. Then on to who could be liable.

You then said there was a presedence for such liability regarding chains and bolts. You added it would probably be the same for quickdraws.

I asked for a legal reference.

You pointed me to another thread.

I pointed out that the other thread was opinion, but no presedence in regard of liability. I also acknowledged that there probably isn't by offering to read any someone could point me to one. I then made this statement.
"I also believe it's not as simple as an anchor or a quickdraw failure, I'm sure there would many other factors and circumstances to consider that would have to be taken into account and each incident would have it's own threshold to either side of the argument. "
This statement does not in any way say who is right or wrong, it's says it depends on circumstances.


You replied,
"Precedence wasn't the right word. When I said that what I meant was that there had been many bolt failures in the past. There are manly bolts at many crags throughout the us and no one has been sued yet. I think this mostly has to do with the fact that almost everyone associates climbing with inherent danger and that any fixed protection is use at ur own risk ",
I do agree with that.

Jay joins and says,
"Negligence is not a cause of action when the plaintiff has knowingly participated in a dangerous sport. Therefore, if the person who hung the draws was "negligent" with respect to their condition, he would not be legally responsible for injuries resulting from someone who relied on them."


I took his blanket of someone being negligent is excused under the iron clad "assumption of risk" clause and shot a hole in it.

Jay cried foul but later acknowledged that it was within his parameters.

I then reminded him that all my original statement implied was, it depends on the circumstances.

Jay didn't like "it depends".

I said blanket statements aren't good.

You then said my example is irrelevant since we were talking quickdraws, not anchors. Then you said,
"Its similar to landowners not being liable for climbers on their land as long as they don't charge a fee to use it. Once a fee is assessed liability is on the landowner ".

I then quoted you as being the one that brought anchors into this conversation a long ways back.

Then I pointed out your landowner blanket statement.

You then bring up limiting liability.

I point your assumption of everything being cut and dried.

You then ask for cases. Earlier neither you or me didn't think there were any, Jay tries this trap later too. You reassert that landowners aren't liable if they don't charge, the opposite of your 1st part of that post.

I try to get it across to you, and knowing Jay's reading, that all I'm pointing out through this entire drift that no case is perfectly clear. Yes sometimes a case may fall under the assumption of risk clause and sometimes not, it depends on circumstances.
I give another example, far fetched but within the liability between a landowner and a climber.


Jay accuses me of strawman.

I showed him how it wasn't.

You then ask for a case that prior to this we have both acknowledged probably isn't there.

Jay admits without saying so he hadn't thought of different circumstances that fit within the parameters.

You took a large leap to construe something that wasn't there.

Jay acknowledges my example as fair.

I say your falling behind in what you've said. I also give you an example you don't like that again falls within your parameters.
I try one last desperate time to explain that cases are different depending on the circumstances and that assumption of risk doesn't excuse all cases. I point out that it's a given if the right circumstances are meet, assumption laws will apply. It all depends, you two can't grasp that.
I also don't believe I'll address any more of Jay's lowball attacks.

Jay makes a rabid post.

Jay then makes a funny post to divert attention from real discussion with a strawman that relies on a third party.

I unfortunately get drawn back in to point out his silly tricks.

Over and out.
Wait a minute, this whole argument was over your misunderstanding my statement there? I stated your example of irrelevant not because it was discussing anchors or quickdraws, but because you brought up an example where a paid guide was the one hanging the draws for a climber. So let me spell it out to you one time so you are perfectly clear about my statement and the context I was applying it to.

Liability associated with hanging draws is different if a non paid climber hangs them and someone else uses them versus a guide who hangs them and their client uses them. Charging a fee changes liability signficantly.

How this relates to my statement about landowner liability is so:

Liability associated with injuries in a normal climbing situation(ie not tractors, landowners cutting ropes) is different for landowners who allow climbing but do not charge a fee versus those who charge a fee to use their land for climbing. State statues are very clear in limiting liability for the landowners who do not charge a fee compared to those that do.


jmeizis


Jan 2, 2011, 11:29 PM
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It's not my personal view you dumbass but it was pretty easy to come up with and like I said I dropped out of law school. Imagine what an experienced lawyer could do in such a case. I'm hopeful for someone to come up with a stunning counterpoint to shut me down because it would make me feel like route equippers are less likely to be sued and therefore free to operate as they please. Guess we'll see if that happens.

But like I said. I doubt if a fixed draw broke that anything would ever come of it because of the reasons I listed. Hence the reason nobody in this discussion has listed any legal precedent. There isn't any.

Personally I do think that if you are going to bolt routes and fix draws then you need to take responsibility in replacing them when they need it. I do not feel people should be sued for it though.


Partner j_ung


Jan 3, 2011, 12:09 AM
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jmeizis wrote:
I would also argue that a route equipper does have a duty of care. They can foreseeably and reasonably realize that their actions, or lack of action to replace worn equipment, may result in injuries. I think any reasonable route equipper would realize that people are going to whip on their gear, probably won't inspect it, and that if they don't replace it on a regular basis then someone could get injured or killed. By opening a route to the public they assume a duty of care. If they don't take reasonable precautions to prevent injuries due to failure of their equipment then they acccept liability if those injuries occur.

Emphasis mine. I don't think it's possible for me to disagree with that more. Are you really picturing a route developer coming back year after year to inspect every climb he or she had a hand in? For how long do you envision that responsibility to last?

When I choose to climb, I accept the risks. All the risks. Not some of the risks. All the risks.

I (really!) don't mean this to sound insulting, but have you ever installed a bolt?


MS1


Jan 3, 2011, 12:39 AM
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jt512 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
There is already a precedence for gear on anchors, no one blames the bolter if an anchor chain or bolt fails, so why would a QD breaking be any different. Majid your logic is flawed on this in so many ways.

Legal reference please.
You'd have to prove negligence in the first place. I don't think this has ever been brought up in court. Here is one such discussion about the legal ramifications http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25; which you posted in. I dont think the concerns have changed but I don't think there have been any successfull lawsuits either

There is plenty of opinions and concerns in that other thread, but no precedence set as to where the liability will fall.

To my knowledge, there is no precedence on this matter. I would like to read of any if there is though.

I also believe it's not as simple as an anchor or a quickdraw failure, I'm sure there would many other factors and circumstances to consider that would have to be taken into account and each incident would have it's own threshold to either side of the argument.

You guys have no idea what you are talking about. Look up "assumption of risk." Negligence is not a cause of action when the plaintiff has knowingly participated in a dangerous sport. Therefore, if the person who hung the draws was "negligent" with respect to their condition, he would not be legally responsible for injuries resulting from someone who relied on them.

Jay

P.S., Do I have to do all the work around here? I'm not even a lawyer.

To the extent you are trying to describe the modern state of the law, this is misleading. See, e.g., the Restatement of Torts (3d) on Apportionment of Liability § 7 cmt. k:

Restatement wrote:

Comment k. Defenses other than plaintiff's negligence. Comparative responsibility does not mean that every defense operates as a percentage reduction of, not a bar to, the plaintiff's recovery. Under comparative responsibility, most courts merge several defenses into plaintiff's negligence, such as implied assumption of risk, avoidable consequences, and mitigation of damages. See § 3, Comments b, c; Duncan v. Cessna Aircraft Co., 665 S.W.2d 414 (Tex.1984). These defenses are based on the factfinder's evaluation of the reasonableness of the plaintiff's conduct. Other defenses--such as contractual assumption of risk, immunity, privilege, statute of limitation, and certain statutory defenses under the Uniform Commercial Code--are based on other policy considerations. No reported decision has applied them as a percentage reduction. They continue to constitute an absolute bar to recovery.

What this is describing is a modern trend away from formalistic approaches like the version of assumption of risk you were describing, which used to absolutely bar plaintiffs from suing where they had been negligent themselves or engaged in dangerous activities. Nowadays, most courts apply what is called "comparative fault," which means that a plaintiff can still sue even if he was negligent, but his damages will be reduced to account for his own role in bringing about his injury by a proportionate amount. As the comment describes, there are still ways you can get absolutely barred from suing---such as a signed waiver excusing liability for negligence or (in many jurisdictions) being more negligent than the defendant was---but just doing something risky won't necessarily bar the action.

Now, as a practical matter, I imagine that most juries and judges would not be terribly sympathetic about claims like the ones being discussed, and might bend the rules a bit to keep climber plaintiffs from recovering. But I can certainly imagine hypothetical cases where one climber's claim against another for negligence would be strong enough that a good lawyer would advise settlement, at least in jurisdictions applying the modern comparative fault rule.

-Mark


(This post was edited by MS1 on Jan 3, 2011, 1:21 AM)


rockvoyager


Jan 3, 2011, 1:54 AM
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I'm not a local but have climbed at Smith many times. Once while walking on the trail I heard a woman ask her companion "why do they leave those things on the walls??" It seems weird to me that she would ignore all the chalk and focus on the quickdraws but she did.

In my experience at Smith there will be fixed draws on 5 or 6 lines out of the hundreds of climbs available. Pretty insignificant when you consider all the chalk, ropes, bodies, backpacks, dogs, etc, on and around those walls.

Jt. You are probably right but Moose has a point. We all know that a lawyers job is to circumvent the intent of a law using the letter of the law. I wouldn't want to trust my ownership of a piece of property to the good will of a lawyer.

Majit, I wouldn't recommend you go to most places in the country and strip fixed draws from climbs.

Brad


notapplicable


Jan 3, 2011, 2:14 AM
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jmeizis wrote:
It's not my personal view

That is not how your post reads.

In reply to:
Personally I do think that if you are going to bolt routes and fix draws then you need to take responsibility in replacing them when they need it.

See my reply to your first post.


jt512


Jan 3, 2011, 2:40 AM
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MS1 wrote:
But I can certainly imagine hypothetical cases where one climber's claim against another for negligence would be strong enough that a good lawyer would advise settlement, at least in jurisdictions applying the modern comparative fault rule.

-Mark

Didn't seem to be the case in Michigan I posted up thread, where the belayer–defendant who dropped his partner won a motion for summary judgment on the basis of assumption of risk, which was upheld by the appellate court.

Jay


MS1


Jan 3, 2011, 3:19 AM
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jt512 wrote:
MS1 wrote:
But I can certainly imagine hypothetical cases where one climber's claim against another for negligence would be strong enough that a good lawyer would advise settlement, at least in jurisdictions applying the modern comparative fault rule.

-Mark

Didn't seem to be the case in Michigan I posted up thread, where the belayer–defendant who dropped his partner won a motion for summary judgment on the basis of assumption of risk, which was upheld by the appellate court.

Jay

Right. Notice that I did not say that every possible case would be viable, in every American jurisdiction. And from a law professor to a layman, be very careful making inferences about what the law is in general from reading a single case.


jt512


Jan 3, 2011, 4:09 AM
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MS1 wrote:
jt512 wrote:
MS1 wrote:
But I can certainly imagine hypothetical cases where one climber's claim against another for negligence would be strong enough that a good lawyer would advise settlement, at least in jurisdictions applying the modern comparative fault rule.

-Mark

Didn't seem to be the case in Michigan I posted up thread, where the belayer–defendant who dropped his partner won a motion for summary judgment on the basis of assumption of risk, which was upheld by the appellate court.

Jay

Right. Notice that I did not say that every possible case would be viable, in every American jurisdiction. And from a law professor to a layman, be very careful making inferences about what the law is in general from reading a single case.

From a statistician to a law professor, I wasn't; but if you ever need to know how many cases you actually would need, let me know.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Jan 3, 2011, 4:23 AM)


MS1


Jan 3, 2011, 4:57 AM
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jt512 wrote:
MS1 wrote:
jt512 wrote:
MS1 wrote:
But I can certainly imagine hypothetical cases where one climber's claim against another for negligence would be strong enough that a good lawyer would advise settlement, at least in jurisdictions applying the modern comparative fault rule.

-Mark

Didn't seem to be the case in Michigan I posted up thread, where the belayer–defendant who dropped his partner won a motion for summary judgment on the basis of assumption of risk, which was upheld by the appellate court.

Jay

Right. Notice that I did not say that every possible case would be viable, in every American jurisdiction. And from a law professor to a layman, be very careful making inferences about what the law is in general from reading a single case.

From a statistician to a law professor, I wasn't; but if you ever need help calculating how many cases you would need for such an inference to have a 95% chance of being correct, let me know.

Jay

I doubt we'd ever get enough rock climbing cases to do any kind of valid statistical inference, at least in terms of climber vs. climber lawsuits. The major limiting factor is that it is rarely worthwhile to sue unless the defendant has deep pockets. Climbers, to put it mildly, tend to make poor targets. That's why most climbing lawsuits that I've seen involve either gyms or gear companies as defendants.

And if the above response came across as rude, my apologies. I just get exasperated when non-lawyers respond to claims like, "In most jurisdictions, the law is x," by replying, "But I once read this case that said y." It takes a large base of knowledge and training to read a few cases and understand how they fit into the larger legal landscape.


moose_droppings


Jan 3, 2011, 5:08 AM
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redlude97 wrote:
Liability associated with hanging draws is different if a non paid climber hangs them and someone else uses them versus a guide who hangs them and their client uses them. Charging a fee changes liability signficantly.

I agree 100% and pointed it out by example. There is a difference in circumstances underlined above.

redlude97 wrote:
Liability associated with injuries in a normal climbing situation(ie not tractors, landowners cutting ropes) is different for landowners who allow climbing but do not charge a fee versus those who charge a fee to use their land for climbing. State statues are very clear in limiting liability for the landowners who do not charge a fee compared to those that do.

Again, I agree 100%. But when circumstances change, so does the contract between them. Pretty obvious right.

I think were saying the same thing. If all the conditions fall within what is required by law in the contract between the two, then the landowner cannot be held liable. But if circumstances change, then he might become liable. A blanket statement that a landowner can't be held liable from a climber getting injured on his property isn't true. Depends on how he got injured, like in my far fetched examples.

I took what you said as a blanket statement for a defense for the landowner. If I took that wrong then your right, my fault. Many nuances are lost communicating through type.

ClimbOn


jt512


Jan 3, 2011, 5:15 AM
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MS1 wrote:
jt512 wrote:
MS1 wrote:
jt512 wrote:
MS1 wrote:
But I can certainly imagine hypothetical cases where one climber's claim against another for negligence would be strong enough that a good lawyer would advise settlement, at least in jurisdictions applying the modern comparative fault rule.

-Mark

Didn't seem to be the case in Michigan I posted up thread, where the belayer–defendant who dropped his partner won a motion for summary judgment on the basis of assumption of risk, which was upheld by the appellate court.

Jay

Right. Notice that I did not say that every possible case would be viable, in every American jurisdiction. And from a law professor to a layman, be very careful making inferences about what the law is in general from reading a single case.

From a statistician to a law professor, I wasn't; but if you ever need help calculating how many cases you would need for such an inference to have a 95% chance of being correct, let me know.

Jay

I doubt we'd ever get enough rock climbing cases to do any kind of valid statistical inference, at least in terms of climber vs. climber lawsuits. The major limiting factor is that it is rarely worthwhile to sue unless the defendant has deep pockets. Climbers, to put it mildly, tend to make poor targets. That's why most climbing lawsuits that I've seen involve either gyms or gear companies as defendants.

And if the above response came across as rude, my apologies.

No, it didn't.

In reply to:
I just get exasperated when non-lawyers respond to claims like, "In most jurisdictions, the law is x," by replying, "But I once read this case that said y." It takes a large base of knowledge and training to read a few cases and understand how they fit into the larger legal landscape.

I completely understand. I did not mean to imply that a single case in a single jurisdiction can be generalized to much of anything anywhere. In theory, I should have made that more clear in my post, but my experience on the internet is that level of rigor is not just unappreciated, but actually derided.

Jay


MS1


Jan 3, 2011, 5:34 AM
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jt512 wrote:
MS1 wrote:
jt512 wrote:
MS1 wrote:
jt512 wrote:
MS1 wrote:
But I can certainly imagine hypothetical cases where one climber's claim against another for negligence would be strong enough that a good lawyer would advise settlement, at least in jurisdictions applying the modern comparative fault rule.

-Mark

Didn't seem to be the case in Michigan I posted up thread, where the belayer–defendant who dropped his partner won a motion for summary judgment on the basis of assumption of risk, which was upheld by the appellate court.

Jay

Right. Notice that I did not say that every possible case would be viable, in every American jurisdiction. And from a law professor to a layman, be very careful making inferences about what the law is in general from reading a single case.

From a statistician to a law professor, I wasn't; but if you ever need help calculating how many cases you would need for such an inference to have a 95% chance of being correct, let me know.

Jay

I doubt we'd ever get enough rock climbing cases to do any kind of valid statistical inference, at least in terms of climber vs. climber lawsuits. The major limiting factor is that it is rarely worthwhile to sue unless the defendant has deep pockets. Climbers, to put it mildly, tend to make poor targets. That's why most climbing lawsuits that I've seen involve either gyms or gear companies as defendants.

And if the above response came across as rude, my apologies.

No, it didn't.

In reply to:
I just get exasperated when non-lawyers respond to claims like, "In most jurisdictions, the law is x," by replying, "But I once read this case that said y." It takes a large base of knowledge and training to read a few cases and understand how they fit into the larger legal landscape.

I completely understand. I did not mean to imply that a single case in a single jurisdiction can be generalized to much of anything anywhere. In theory, I should have made that more clear in my post, but my experience on the internet is that level of rigor is not just unappreciated, but actually derided.

Jay

I've noticed that myself. It's why I rarely bother to intervene in the legal discussions on this site. It's much more fun just to participate in the noise.


jmeizis


Jan 3, 2011, 5:41 AM
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My personal belief is that if route equippers want to lay claim to the state of the route itself (whether bolts are added or removed, anchors moved, etc.) then yes I think they need to go back and maintain the fixed gear as long as they want sole say over the route.

If they want to bolt it, climb it, name it, and move on then no I think it then becomes community responsibility.

I don't believe you can argue some pseudo ownership of a route and then just deny any responsibility if your fixed gear fails. While I don't believe they should get sued for it that doesn't mean they couldn't be.

Now while what I said above does share a few of my personal beliefs it was more just pointing out the fact that assumption of risk is not full protection for route equippers even if climbers assume all risks. Keep in mind I'm probably not going to be on the jury should some route equipper get sued and most judges and jurors aren't going to necessarily understand or agree with a climber's perspective. It's like if I go install a swing in the park. If I donate it as a gift to the community then people probably aren't going to look for me if it breaks a few years down the road. If I say it's the "Jeremiah is Awesome" swing and people can only swing on it if they think I'm awesome and don't mess with the state of the swing and then some little kid breaks their neck when it collapses then I have no doubt that I'd be sued. Actually it's more likely that the manufacturer would get sued but you get the idea.

I only agree with you about the risk in part. I agree that if we climb we accept all the risks. It's necessary in our participation that we accept all those possibilities but I don't think equipment failure is something that we willingly accept. People know that it's possible that it can happen even if they do everything according to manufacturers recommendations but I don't think anyone would say that properly used equipment failing is something they're cool with. You'll never see a company succeed if people who use their equipment start dying.

My lack of placing bolts has no bearing on whether a court would decide a route equipper was responsible for equipment failure on a route they put up. While I was mostly playing devil's advocate I do myself believe some of the points I brought up.

If someone who has no business bolting routes starts putting up routes with bad bolts (overtorqued, placement in bad rock, whatever) then do you really think they shouldn't have a share in the responsibility if people get injured or killed on the routes they put up?


notapplicable


Jan 3, 2011, 7:08 AM
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jmeizis wrote:
My personal belief is that if route equippers want to lay claim to the state of the route itself (whether bolts are added or removed, anchors moved, etc.) then yes I think they need to go back and maintain the fixed gear as long as they want sole say over the route.

If they want to bolt it, climb it, name it, and move on then no I think it then becomes community responsibility.

I don't believe you can argue some pseudo ownership of a route and then just deny any responsibility if your fixed gear fails. While I don't believe they should get sued for it that doesn't mean they couldn't be.

Now while what I said above does share a few of my personal beliefs it was more just pointing out the fact that assumption of risk is not full protection for route equippers even if climbers assume all risks. Keep in mind I'm probably not going to be on the jury should some route equipper get sued and most judges and jurors aren't going to necessarily understand or agree with a climber's perspective. It's like if I go install a swing in the park. If I donate it as a gift to the community then people probably aren't going to look for me if it breaks a few years down the road. If I say it's the "Jeremiah is Awesome" swing and people can only swing on it if they think I'm awesome and don't mess with the state of the swing and then some little kid breaks their neck when it collapses then I have no doubt that I'd be sued. Actually it's more likely that the manufacturer would get sued but you get the idea.

I only agree with you about the risk in part. I agree that if we climb we accept all the risks. It's necessary in our participation that we accept all those possibilities but I don't think equipment failure is something that we willingly accept. People know that it's possible that it can happen even if they do everything according to manufacturers recommendations but I don't think anyone would say that properly used equipment failing is something they're cool with. You'll never see a company succeed if people who use their equipment start dying.

My lack of placing bolts has no bearing on whether a court would decide a route equipper was responsible for equipment failure on a route they put up. While I was mostly playing devil's advocate I do myself believe some of the points I brought up.

If someone who has no business bolting routes starts putting up routes with bad bolts (overtorqued, placement in bad rock, whatever) then do you really think they shouldn't have a share in the responsibility if people get injured or killed on the routes they put up?

I don't honor the first ascent based on any implicit or explicit claim of ownership of the route. The tradition also predated sport climbing by a wide margin.

You are way off base here dude.


Partner camhead


Jan 3, 2011, 12:56 PM
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jmeizis wrote:
My personal belief is that if route equippers want to lay claim to the state of the route itself (whether bolts are added or removed, anchors moved, etc.) then yes I think they need to go back and maintain the fixed gear as long as they want sole say over the route.

If they want to bolt it, climb it, name it, and move on then no I think it then becomes community responsibility.

I don't believe you can argue some pseudo ownership of a route and then just deny any responsibility if your fixed gear fails. While I don't believe they should get sued for it that doesn't mean they couldn't be.

Now while what I said above does share a few of my personal beliefs it was more just pointing out the fact that assumption of risk is not full protection for route equippers even if climbers assume all risks. Keep in mind I'm probably not going to be on the jury should some route equipper get sued and most judges and jurors aren't going to necessarily understand or agree with a climber's perspective. It's like if I go install a swing in the park. If I donate it as a gift to the community then people probably aren't going to look for me if it breaks a few years down the road. If I say it's the "Jeremiah is Awesome" swing and people can only swing on it if they think I'm awesome and don't mess with the state of the swing and then some little kid breaks their neck when it collapses then I have no doubt that I'd be sued. Actually it's more likely that the manufacturer would get sued but you get the idea.

I only agree with you about the risk in part. I agree that if we climb we accept all the risks. It's necessary in our participation that we accept all those possibilities but I don't think equipment failure is something that we willingly accept. People know that it's possible that it can happen even if they do everything according to manufacturers recommendations but I don't think anyone would say that properly used equipment failing is something they're cool with. You'll never see a company succeed if people who use their equipment start dying.

My lack of placing bolts has no bearing on whether a court would decide a route equipper was responsible for equipment failure on a route they put up. While I was mostly playing devil's advocate I do myself believe some of the points I brought up.

If someone who has no business bolting routes starts putting up routes with bad bolts (overtorqued, placement in bad rock, whatever) then do you really think they shouldn't have a share in the responsibility if people get injured or killed on the routes they put up?

the more you post on this site, the more you show you REALLY don't get it.


dynosore


Jan 3, 2011, 3:26 PM
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MS1 wrote:
jt512 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
There is already a precedence for gear on anchors, no one blames the bolter if an anchor chain or bolt fails, so why would a QD breaking be any different. Majid your logic is flawed on this in so many ways.

Legal reference please.
You'd have to prove negligence in the first place. I don't think this has ever been brought up in court. Here is one such discussion about the legal ramifications http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25; which you posted in. I dont think the concerns have changed but I don't think there have been any successfull lawsuits either

There is plenty of opinions and concerns in that other thread, but no precedence set as to where the liability will fall.

To my knowledge, there is no precedence on this matter. I would like to read of any if there is though.

I also believe it's not as simple as an anchor or a quickdraw failure, I'm sure there would many other factors and circumstances to consider that would have to be taken into account and each incident would have it's own threshold to either side of the argument.

You guys have no idea what you are talking about. Look up "assumption of risk." Negligence is not a cause of action when the plaintiff has knowingly participated in a dangerous sport. Therefore, if the person who hung the draws was "negligent" with respect to their condition, he would not be legally responsible for injuries resulting from someone who relied on them.

Jay

P.S., Do I have to do all the work around here? I'm not even a lawyer.

To the extent you are trying to describe the modern state of the law, this is misleading. See, e.g., the Restatement of Torts (3d) on Apportionment of Liability § 7 cmt. k:

Restatement wrote:

Comment k. Defenses other than plaintiff's negligence. Comparative responsibility does not mean that every defense operates as a percentage reduction of, not a bar to, the plaintiff's recovery. Under comparative responsibility, most courts merge several defenses into plaintiff's negligence, such as implied assumption of risk, avoidable consequences, and mitigation of damages. See § 3, Comments b, c; Duncan v. Cessna Aircraft Co., 665 S.W.2d 414 (Tex.1984). These defenses are based on the factfinder's evaluation of the reasonableness of the plaintiff's conduct. Other defenses--such as contractual assumption of risk, immunity, privilege, statute of limitation, and certain statutory defenses under the Uniform Commercial Code--are based on other policy considerations. No reported decision has applied them as a percentage reduction. They continue to constitute an absolute bar to recovery.

What this is describing is a modern trend away from formalistic approaches like the version of assumption of risk you were describing, which used to absolutely bar plaintiffs from suing where they had been negligent themselves or engaged in dangerous activities. Nowadays, most courts apply what is called "comparative fault," which means that a plaintiff can still sue even if he was negligent, but his damages will be reduced to account for his own role in bringing about his injury by a proportionate amount. As the comment describes, there are still ways you can get absolutely barred from suing---such as a signed waiver excusing liability for negligence or (in many jurisdictions) being more negligent than the defendant was---but just doing something risky won't necessarily bar the action.

Now, as a practical matter, I imagine that most juries and judges would not be terribly sympathetic about claims like the ones being discussed, and might bend the rules a bit to keep climber plaintiffs from recovering. But I can certainly imagine hypothetical cases where one climber's claim against another for negligence would be strong enough that a good lawyer would advise settlement, at least in jurisdictions applying the modern comparative fault rule.

-Mark

This is correct, and consistent with the only case I'm aware of (besides the one Jt brought up). A guy was left paralzyed after a gym accident, and his award was reduced by 75% because he was found 75% responsible, and the gym 25%. My n=1 is good enough for me Angelic


MS1


Jan 3, 2011, 3:55 PM
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dynosore wrote:
MS1 wrote:
jt512 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
There is already a precedence for gear on anchors, no one blames the bolter if an anchor chain or bolt fails, so why would a QD breaking be any different. Majid your logic is flawed on this in so many ways.

Legal reference please.
You'd have to prove negligence in the first place. I don't think this has ever been brought up in court. Here is one such discussion about the legal ramifications http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25; which you posted in. I dont think the concerns have changed but I don't think there have been any successfull lawsuits either

There is plenty of opinions and concerns in that other thread, but no precedence set as to where the liability will fall.

To my knowledge, there is no precedence on this matter. I would like to read of any if there is though.

I also believe it's not as simple as an anchor or a quickdraw failure, I'm sure there would many other factors and circumstances to consider that would have to be taken into account and each incident would have it's own threshold to either side of the argument.

You guys have no idea what you are talking about. Look up "assumption of risk." Negligence is not a cause of action when the plaintiff has knowingly participated in a dangerous sport. Therefore, if the person who hung the draws was "negligent" with respect to their condition, he would not be legally responsible for injuries resulting from someone who relied on them.

Jay

P.S., Do I have to do all the work around here? I'm not even a lawyer.

To the extent you are trying to describe the modern state of the law, this is misleading. See, e.g., the Restatement of Torts (3d) on Apportionment of Liability § 7 cmt. k:

Restatement wrote:

Comment k. Defenses other than plaintiff's negligence. Comparative responsibility does not mean that every defense operates as a percentage reduction of, not a bar to, the plaintiff's recovery. Under comparative responsibility, most courts merge several defenses into plaintiff's negligence, such as implied assumption of risk, avoidable consequences, and mitigation of damages. See § 3, Comments b, c; Duncan v. Cessna Aircraft Co., 665 S.W.2d 414 (Tex.1984). These defenses are based on the factfinder's evaluation of the reasonableness of the plaintiff's conduct. Other defenses--such as contractual assumption of risk, immunity, privilege, statute of limitation, and certain statutory defenses under the Uniform Commercial Code--are based on other policy considerations. No reported decision has applied them as a percentage reduction. They continue to constitute an absolute bar to recovery.

What this is describing is a modern trend away from formalistic approaches like the version of assumption of risk you were describing, which used to absolutely bar plaintiffs from suing where they had been negligent themselves or engaged in dangerous activities. Nowadays, most courts apply what is called "comparative fault," which means that a plaintiff can still sue even if he was negligent, but his damages will be reduced to account for his own role in bringing about his injury by a proportionate amount. As the comment describes, there are still ways you can get absolutely barred from suing---such as a signed waiver excusing liability for negligence or (in many jurisdictions) being more negligent than the defendant was---but just doing something risky won't necessarily bar the action.

Now, as a practical matter, I imagine that most juries and judges would not be terribly sympathetic about claims like the ones being discussed, and might bend the rules a bit to keep climber plaintiffs from recovering. But I can certainly imagine hypothetical cases where one climber's claim against another for negligence would be strong enough that a good lawyer would advise settlement, at least in jurisdictions applying the modern comparative fault rule.

-Mark

This is correct, and consistent with the only case I'm aware of (besides the one Jt brought up). A guy was left paralzyed after a gym accident, and his award was reduced by 75% because he was found 75% responsible, and the gym 25%. My n=1 is good enough for me Angelic

FYI, although that is helpful in that it at least applies a comparative fault rule, it is also a bit misleading. 33 states apply a version of the comparative fault rule where the plaintiff's share of the responsibility has to be less than 50%. So in most of the U.S., 75% responsible means no recovery.

Edited to ask: Out of curiosity, do you know the names of the parties in the case you mentioned, or where it took place?


(This post was edited by MS1 on Jan 3, 2011, 4:00 PM)


sungam


Jan 3, 2011, 4:06 PM
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You guys didn't see that beard? No? What about his hat?

Hey, let's take bet's on whether or not dudebro had a cragdog.


jmeizis


Jan 3, 2011, 4:11 PM
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While you might not honor the FA, many people do otherwise there wouldn't be such a bitch fest when someone adds or chops a bolt on a route that was put up by someone else.

I don't think where the notion of first ascencionist rights falls in the timeline of climbing is relevant either. It still exists and since enough people seem to honor the rights of the FA in the present I don't think it matters when the notion of those rights began.

Where am I off base? In asserting that people should take responsibility to things which they claim rights or pseudo ownership to or in asserting that a route equipper could lose a lawsuit if they don't regularly replace their fixed equipment? Enlighten me.


jmeizis


Jan 3, 2011, 4:12 PM
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Thanks for the heads up. Why don't you enlighten me?


jmeizis


Jan 3, 2011, 4:16 PM
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I bet dude brohanasaurus did not have el crag dog. I think it would have walked up to the people with the camera.


MS1


Jan 3, 2011, 4:17 PM
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sungam wrote:
You guys didn't see that beard? No? What about his hat?

Hey, let's take bet's on whether or not dudebro had a cragdog.

You can actually see a dog at the crag at some point. My only reason to doubt that it was his is that it was too well behaved. Although maybe it was just trained to play it cool while quietly filching gear from other people's packs.


notapplicable


Jan 3, 2011, 4:23 PM
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jmeizis wrote:
While you might not honor the FA, many people do otherwise there wouldn't be such a bitch fest when someone adds or chops a bolt on a route that was put up by someone else.

I don't think where the notion of first ascencionist rights falls in the timeline of climbing is relevant either. It still exists and since enough people seem to honor the rights of the FA in the present I don't think it matters when the notion of those rights began.

Where am I off base? In asserting that people should take responsibility to things which they claim rights or pseudo ownership to or in asserting that a route equipper could lose a lawsuit if they don't regularly replace their fixed equipment? Enlighten me.

Oh, I do honor the FA.

And while I hesitate to speak for anyone else, I'm confident no one here honors the FA based on any implicit or explicit claim of ownership of the route either. Thats not what it is about and those claims are rarely made.


jmeizis


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I can't tell if you're saying your honoring of a FA is simply honorific or if there having done the FA entitles them to certain rights in regards to a route they put up.


sungam


Jan 3, 2011, 4:45 PM
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MS1 wrote:
sungam wrote:
You guys didn't see that beard? No? What about his hat?

Hey, let's take bet's on whether or not dudebro had a cragdog.

You can actually see a dog at the crag at some point. My only reason to doubt that it was his is that it was too well behaved. Although maybe it was just trained to play it cool while quietly filching gear from other people's packs.
It's a tricky question. Some people are very different with the interactions with dogs then with people. Maybe he's a great dog owner and it's very well behaved and waits patienly as his owner steals petzl spirits from the kakodemon boulder.


jt512


Jan 3, 2011, 4:56 PM
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jmeizis wrote:
While you might not honor the FA, many people do otherwise there wouldn't be such a bitch fest when someone adds or chops a bolt on a route that was put up by someone else.

I don't think where the notion of first ascencionist rights falls in the timeline of climbing is relevant either. It still exists and since enough people seem to honor the rights of the FA in the present I don't think it matters when the notion of those rights began.

Where am I off base?

In asserting that there is a notion of first ascentionist rights in the first place. What there is is a tradition of respecting the first ascentionist's style, which includes not adding bolts to an established trad route. This tradition has spilled over into sport climbing in the form of respecting the effort and the vision of the first ascentionist, but a sport FAist who botches the job badly enough may have his decisions overridden by more competent local activists.

Jay


jt512


Jan 3, 2011, 4:58 PM
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jmeizis wrote:
I can't tell if you're saying your honoring of a FA is simply honorific or if there having done the FA entitles them to certain rights in regards to a route they put up.

I think that what he said is clear. He's saying the same I am, above.

Jay


Bats


Jan 3, 2011, 5:35 PM
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Sunny,

I am confused about this sport climbing issues. That is why I am asking you. What constitute legitimate booty from theft? I thought you cleaned after you climbed on sport or trad, and not leave any gear for days.
The way I look at it the owners and qd thief are equally guilty.


notapplicable


Jan 3, 2011, 5:40 PM
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jt512 wrote:
jmeizis wrote:
I can't tell if you're saying your honoring of a FA is simply honorific or if there having done the FA entitles them to certain rights in regards to a route they put up.

I think that what he said is clear. He's saying the same I am, above.

Jay

This is exactly right.

I'm beginning to hope that jmeizis is actually this sites most talented troll. Otherwise this is profoundly embarrassing.


notapplicable


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Bats wrote:
Sunny,

I am confused about this sport climbing issues. That is why I am asking you. What constitute legitimate booty from theft? I thought you cleaned after you climbed on sport or trad, and not leave any gear for days.
The way I look at it the owners and qd thief are equally guilty.

That seems more a than a bit harsh.


Gmburns2000


Jan 3, 2011, 6:12 PM
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sungam wrote:
MS1 wrote:
sungam wrote:
You guys didn't see that beard? No? What about his hat?

Hey, let's take bet's on whether or not dudebro had a cragdog.

You can actually see a dog at the crag at some point. My only reason to doubt that it was his is that it was too well behaved. Although maybe it was just trained to play it cool while quietly filching gear from other people's packs.
It's a tricky question. Some people are very different with the interactions with dogs then with people. Maybe he's a great dog owner and it's very well behaved and waits patienly as his owner steals petzl spirits from the kakodemon boulder.

maybe the owner steals petzls and the dog steals sandwhichs. the dog gives half of his sandwhich to the owner and the owner ensures the dog has the mega coolest collar and leash around. for each, it is a win.


majid_sabet


Jan 3, 2011, 6:16 PM
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edge wrote:
Majid, when you are in the Valley, do you routinely remove the fixed lines from El Cap? Say, for example, the ones at the base of the Nose or Salathe?

Not me but Climbing ranger and those in charge do it regularly and you get fine if you leave it out there. You need to remember that valley has small climbing community and everyone knows everything. They know who does what and what you are up to in real time.


Partner cracklover


Jan 3, 2011, 6:27 PM
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Two things:

1 - The thief was lying from beginning to end. I've little doubt that he will be more careful next time, but that there will be a next time.

2 - Outside of the narrow pissing match with Jay and Moose, I think the question of liability *is* an interesting one, and worth discussing.

Let's take the case that happened recently in Australia, in which a party equipped a route poorly, resulting in a bad accident. It was claimed that the party had been warned beforehand (by one of the most well-respected local developers) *not* to use the type of bolt they had in mind, and/or *not* to bolt the line they had in mind (because the rock was known to be poor).

The party was on a mission to do an FA each place they went, and they disregarded the advice that was given.

Let's say this happened in the US, and that both parties were US citizens. Wouldn't there be a good claim for negligence, even under Jay's more strict interpretation?

As a climber, I would strongly hope that we would police/look after our own. This means vilify the bolters so they could never develop another route, and raise the $$ to help out the fallen climber. It means keep it out of the court.

But in reality, I see no reason to think it *would* stay out of court. Further, I see no reason to think that the injured party wouldn't stand a good chance of winning. And if this happened, it could create a legal precedent that would be very damaging to further development.

GO


kennoyce


Jan 3, 2011, 6:27 PM
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jmeizis wrote:
My personal belief is that if route equippers want to lay claim to the state of the route itself (whether bolts are added or removed, anchors moved, etc.) then yes I think they need to go back and maintain the fixed gear as long as they want sole say over the route.

If they want to bolt it, climb it, name it, and move on then no I think it then becomes community responsibility.

I don't believe you can argue some pseudo ownership of a route and then just deny any responsibility if your fixed gear fails. While I don't believe they should get sued for it that doesn't mean they couldn't be.

Now while what I said above does share a few of my personal beliefs it was more just pointing out the fact that assumption of risk is not full protection for route equippers even if climbers assume all risks. Keep in mind I'm probably not going to be on the jury should some route equipper get sued and most judges and jurors aren't going to necessarily understand or agree with a climber's perspective. It's like if I go install a swing in the park. If I donate it as a gift to the community then people probably aren't going to look for me if it breaks a few years down the road. If I say it's the "Jeremiah is Awesome" swing and people can only swing on it if they think I'm awesome and don't mess with the state of the swing and then some little kid breaks their neck when it collapses then I have no doubt that I'd be sued. Actually it's more likely that the manufacturer would get sued but you get the idea.

I only agree with you about the risk in part. I agree that if we climb we accept all the risks. It's necessary in our participation that we accept all those possibilities but I don't think equipment failure is something that we willingly accept. People know that it's possible that it can happen even if they do everything according to manufacturers recommendations but I don't think anyone would say that properly used equipment failing is something they're cool with. You'll never see a company succeed if people who use their equipment start dying.

My lack of placing bolts has no bearing on whether a court would decide a route equipper was responsible for equipment failure on a route they put up. While I was mostly playing devil's advocate I do myself believe some of the points I brought up.

If someone who has no business bolting routes starts putting up routes with bad bolts (overtorqued, placement in bad rock, whatever) then do you really think they shouldn't have a share in the responsibility if people get injured or killed on the routes they put up?

I couldn't disagree with the bolded statement more. I have clipped many bolts in my life that I knew I shouldn't fall on (many that I wouldn't even want to hang on). In these cases, I am perfectly willing to accept equipment failure should I fall on these bolts, but I still clip them because there is the slight chance that the bolt might hold. I also generally try not to fall on the only bolt keeping me off the ground (not that I didn't do this on saturday, but it is a good general rule). I think any smart climber has to accept the possibility of equipment failure. If you are ignorant and are injured or killed because of it, that's your own fault.

I have bolted routes many hundreds of miles from where I live, most of which I have only climbed once. I certainly don't think that I have a responsibility to keep the hardware in good condition. I would prefer that the bolt placements remain where they are so that anyone who wants to climb the routes will have the same experience. I don't feel that I own the routes, nor do I think that most route developers feel that they are the owners. The tradition to keep routes in the style of the FA has nothing to do with ownership, but is about preserving climbing styles for all to enjoy.


Gmburns2000


Jan 3, 2011, 7:14 PM
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cracklover wrote:
Two things:

1 - The thief was lying from beginning to end. I've little doubt that he will be more careful next time, but that there will be a next time.

2 - Outside of the narrow pissing match with Jay and Moose, I think the question of liability *is* an interesting one, and worth discussing.

Let's take the case that happened recently in Australia, in which a party equipped a route poorly, resulting in a bad accident. It was claimed that the party had been warned beforehand (by one of the most well-respected local developers) *not* to use the type of bolt they had in mind, and/or *not* to bolt the line they had in mind (because the rock was known to be poor).

The party was on a mission to do an FA each place they went, and they disregarded the advice that was given.

Let's say this happened in the US, and that both parties were US citizens. Wouldn't there be a good claim for negligence, even under Jay's more strict interpretation?

As a climber, I would strongly hope that we would police/look after our own. This means vilify the bolters so they could never develop another route, and raise the $$ to help out the fallen climber. It means keep it out of the court.

But in reality, I see no reason to think it *would* stay out of court. Further, I see no reason to think that the injured party wouldn't stand a good chance of winning. And if this happened, it could create a legal precedent that would be very damaging to further development.

GO

Thank god someone brought this up! I was just trying to find that thread myself. I remember there being a bit of shit storm that the FA'ist didn't take responsibility for the poor bolting job, or at least that he didn't admit that he had done a bad job.

Even if it didn't end up court, I find it hard to believe that folks wouldn't want the FA'ist to take resposibility. For instance, how many folks who have done FA's have placed a bolt on the FA with the understanding that a better bolt would work better in that particular placement, and then have gone back later to indeed place a better bolt there? If that isn't some feeling of responsibility then I'm not sure what is.


jmeizis


Jan 3, 2011, 7:52 PM
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Jay worded it a little better than you. I get what you're driving at. So it sounds like in honoring or respecting the FA's style you're allowing certain rights, correct? The right to name it, the right to add or remove bolts, the right to fix draws on it, cut rings if people won't stop TRing through them, and so on?

It's not total control over the route but FA's maintain some minor control over that patch of rock that they climbed first. They can't sell it or anything but they have the right to make certain changes to it that others are excluded from making. These conventions of allowing certain rights, abilities, or honors, that aren't available to others is the basis of property rights. While climbing routes eventually fall under the umbrella of real property ownership be it public or private land those rights given to the FA's by the climbing community are a sort of possessory interest. So if you regard any FA as having rights to make changes (minor as they may be) then you're de facto allowing a possessory interest. Whether you like it or not I think that's giving them a claim of some sort of ownership.

Now if that follows then you either agree or disagree with what I said before about people who claim rights to a route needing to take responsibility for it and things that happen with it.

Ken, I said willingly accept. While I have certainly climbed above crappy bolts, pitons, gear, screws, etc. I didn't do it because I wanted to climb above crappy equipment, I wanted to climb the route and the risk I felt of falling was less than the risk I felt of the gear failing. If I had a rusty 1/4" bolt next to a bomber glue in I don't have to accept the crappy bolt. If there is only the crappy bolt my choices are to back off (which is not always easy or safer), just solo the route, or clip the bolt. I don't believe that a lack of desireable choices means we willingly accept the best option currently available. If someone robs you at gunpoint and they tell you to hand over your wallet or get shot in the face would you say either choice was willing?

As for the routes you've put up. While you desire that they stay the same you aren't checking up on them or bitching if someone changes them. I don't think all FA's do keep such interest in the routes they put up but I do know some FA's who do keep such interest, if not in all the routes they put up, at least some of them. I don't think a FA who puts up a route and leaves it to the masses is making any sort of possessory claim and therefore bears no responsibility for what happens after them. If on the other hand they do claim some sort of rights to the route then they can't shirk everything that I think goes along with that.

Maybe I am way off base. Maybe no route developers feel any interest in what happens to their routes. People don't bitch if someone adds or removes bolts from a route that isn't there's, and no FA tell people they have permission to add or remove bolts from a route.


bill413


Jan 3, 2011, 8:03 PM
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Bats wrote:
Sunny,

I am confused about this sport climbing issues. That is why I am asking you. What constitute legitimate booty from theft? I thought you cleaned after you climbed on sport or trad, and not leave any gear for days.
The way I look at it the owners and qd thief are equally guilty.

I think (and am willing to be shot down) that:
Single draw on route: booty
A few draws on route: probably booty
Fully equipped route: probably a project, or communal draws


redlude97


Jan 3, 2011, 8:10 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
Two things:

1 - The thief was lying from beginning to end. I've little doubt that he will be more careful next time, but that there will be a next time.

2 - Outside of the narrow pissing match with Jay and Moose, I think the question of liability *is* an interesting one, and worth discussing.

Let's take the case that happened recently in Australia, in which a party equipped a route poorly, resulting in a bad accident. It was claimed that the party had been warned beforehand (by one of the most well-respected local developers) *not* to use the type of bolt they had in mind, and/or *not* to bolt the line they had in mind (because the rock was known to be poor).

The party was on a mission to do an FA each place they went, and they disregarded the advice that was given.

Let's say this happened in the US, and that both parties were US citizens. Wouldn't there be a good claim for negligence, even under Jay's more strict interpretation?

As a climber, I would strongly hope that we would police/look after our own. This means vilify the bolters so they could never develop another route, and raise the $$ to help out the fallen climber. It means keep it out of the court.

But in reality, I see no reason to think it *would* stay out of court. Further, I see no reason to think that the injured party wouldn't stand a good chance of winning. And if this happened, it could create a legal precedent that would be very damaging to further development.

GO
I think what the law states, and what climbers as a community should do are very different, and like you said, we should look out for our own. In many places there are no laws restricting the addition of bolts, yet the climbing community is mostly in agreement that bolts should not be added to cracks that can be protected by trad gear. Bad bolts should be replaced if deemed necessary, but it isn't necessarily the FA's responsibility to do so. If they decide to replace a sketchy bolt it is a voluntary action.


Partner j_ung


Jan 3, 2011, 8:18 PM
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cracklover wrote:
Two things:

1 - The thief was lying from beginning to end. I've little doubt that he will be more careful next time, but that there will be a next time.

2 - Outside of the narrow pissing match with Jay and Moose, I think the question of liability *is* an interesting one, and worth discussing.

Let's take the case that happened recently in Australia, in which a party equipped a route poorly, resulting in a bad accident. It was claimed that the party had been warned beforehand (by one of the most well-respected local developers) *not* to use the type of bolt they had in mind, and/or *not* to bolt the line they had in mind (because the rock was known to be poor).

The party was on a mission to do an FA each place they went, and they disregarded the advice that was given.

Let's say this happened in the US, and that both parties were US citizens. Wouldn't there be a good claim for negligence, even under Jay's more strict interpretation?

As a climber, I would strongly hope that we would police/look after our own. This means vilify the bolters so they could never develop another route, and raise the $$ to help out the fallen climber. It means keep it out of the court.

But in reality, I see no reason to think it *would* stay out of court. Further, I see no reason to think that the injured party wouldn't stand a good chance of winning. And if this happened, it could create a legal precedent that would be very damaging to further development.

GO

Very well put. I'll take one of your points a step further to say that we as a community should chastise any blatantly irresponsible development AND any person who files a negligence lawsuit in such a situation.


kennoyce


Jan 3, 2011, 8:52 PM
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Re: [jmeizis] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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jmeizis wrote:
Jay worded it a little better than you. I get what you're driving at. So it sounds like in honoring or respecting the FA's style you're allowing certain rights, correct? The right to name it, the right to add or remove bolts, the right to fix draws on it, cut rings if people won't stop TRing through them, and so on?

It's not total control over the route but FA's maintain some minor control over that patch of rock that they climbed first. They can't sell it or anything but they have the right to make certain changes to it that others are excluded from making. These conventions of allowing certain rights, abilities, or honors, that aren't available to others is the basis of property rights. While climbing routes eventually fall under the umbrella of real property ownership be it public or private land those rights given to the FA's by the climbing community are a sort of possessory interest. So if you regard any FA as having rights to make changes (minor as they may be) then you're de facto allowing a possessory interest. Whether you like it or not I think that's giving them a claim of some sort of ownership.

Now if that follows then you either agree or disagree with what I said before about people who claim rights to a route needing to take responsibility for it and things that happen with it.

Ken, I said willingly accept. While I have certainly climbed above crappy bolts, pitons, gear, screws, etc. I didn't do it because I wanted to climb above crappy equipment, I wanted to climb the route and the risk I felt of falling was less than the risk I felt of the gear failing. If I had a rusty 1/4" bolt next to a bomber glue in I don't have to accept the crappy bolt. If there is only the crappy bolt my choices are to back off (which is not always easy or safer), just solo the route, or clip the bolt. I don't believe that a lack of desireable choices means we willingly accept the best option currently available. If someone robs you at gunpoint and they tell you to hand over your wallet or get shot in the face would you say either choice was willing?

As for the routes you've put up. While you desire that they stay the same you aren't checking up on them or bitching if someone changes them. I don't think all FA's do keep such interest in the routes they put up but I do know some FA's who do keep such interest, if not in all the routes they put up, at least some of them. I don't think a FA who puts up a route and leaves it to the masses is making any sort of possessory claim and therefore bears no responsibility for what happens after them. If on the other hand they do claim some sort of rights to the route then they can't shirk everything that I think goes along with that.

Maybe I am way off base. Maybe no route developers feel any interest in what happens to their routes. People don't bitch if someone adds or removes bolts from a route that isn't there's, and no FA tell people they have permission to add or remove bolts from a route.

I see what you are getting at, but I still think that many of us willingly accept that a bolt may fail. I'm thinking of a route I climbed about 2 weeks ago in j-tree. I could see from the ground that the bolt protecting the crux was a rusty 1/4"er on a rusty home made hanger. The bolt was probably 30 feet up the face and the last piece of pro prior to the bolt was 20 feet below it (you would certainly deck if you fell and broke the bolt). There was nobody forcing me to do the route at gunpoint and I had the option of climbing a different route with better protection 10 feet in either direction. I chose to climb the route knowing full well that if I fell at the crux I would most likely deck from 35 feet.

Maybe others don't think about the possibility of bolts failing, but I personally accept it as a risk inherent in climbing. Like I mentioned, if I don't have two bolts keeping me off the ground I try not to fall if at all possible and If I do fall I willingly accept that I may deck. I have never broken a bolt or even seen one broken in a fall, but it is in the back of my mind that it could happen and I plan accordingly.

Oh, one more thing, I have clipped an old rusty 1/4"er that was right next to a bomber modern 1/2" bolt (without clipping the 1/2"er) just for the fun of it.Wink


kennoyce


Jan 3, 2011, 9:08 PM
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Re: [jmeizis] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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jmeizis wrote:
Jay worded it a little better than you. I get what you're driving at. So it sounds like in honoring or respecting the FA's style you're allowing certain rights, correct? The right to name it, the right to add or remove bolts, the right to fix draws on it, cut rings if people won't stop TRing through them, and so on?

I just wanted to comment on this as well. Personally I don't think the FA has any rights on the climb that they put up after it has been climbed by others. I think that bolts should be added or removed only when it is agreed upon by both the FA and the community. Over on MP there has been a thread about Double Cross at J-tree where the FA was okay with adding a bolt to the slab section at the start. Even though he is okay with it I don't think he has any say any more since the climb has been done by thousands of others sans bolt.

I don't think the right to fix draws or cut rings is exclusively the right of the FA, but I believe that any member of the climbing community has this right as long as there is consensus within the community. Really the only right of the FA is to dictate where the bolts are initially placed, and to name the route. I don't think that that makes them any kind of owner.

I think a lot of people say that we need to respect the FA's choice of bolt locations when what we are really trying to say is that in order to maintain route diversity we shouldn't change routes that have already been established in one form or another. Like I said, once a route has been climbed by people other than the FA, it should remain in that state to preserve the experience for future climbers. This is of course just my opinion, but I think it should be the ethic. I know I don't want any classic climb to have bolts added, even if they're added by the FA, because that will change the mood of the route.


MS1


Jan 3, 2011, 9:32 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
Two things:

1 - The thief was lying from beginning to end. I've little doubt that he will be more careful next time, but that there will be a next time.

2 - Outside of the narrow pissing match with Jay and Moose, I think the question of liability *is* an interesting one, and worth discussing.

Let's take the case that happened recently in Australia, in which a party equipped a route poorly, resulting in a bad accident. It was claimed that the party had been warned beforehand (by one of the most well-respected local developers) *not* to use the type of bolt they had in mind, and/or *not* to bolt the line they had in mind (because the rock was known to be poor).

The party was on a mission to do an FA each place they went, and they disregarded the advice that was given.

Let's say this happened in the US, and that both parties were US citizens. Wouldn't there be a good claim for negligence, even under Jay's more strict interpretation?

As a climber, I would strongly hope that we would police/look after our own. This means vilify the bolters so they could never develop another route, and raise the $$ to help out the fallen climber. It means keep it out of the court.

But in reality, I see no reason to think it *would* stay out of court. Further, I see no reason to think that the injured party wouldn't stand a good chance of winning. And if this happened, it could create a legal precedent that would be very damaging to further development.

GO

The law varies from state to state, but in most states this sounds like a viable claim as a matter of formal law. Under the most common version of the comparative negligence rule, the question would be whether clipping those bolts as they appeared from a climber's perspective was more negligent than placing them in their bad condition, having been advised that the bolts and the rock were unsound. People generally view climbing as crazy, so that is an obstacle for your plaintiffs, but I don't think the claim would be worthless; the plaintiff could probably obtain a reasonable settlement.

As I said above, the real reason you don't see these claims has nothing to do with the legal rules, but instead it is because most route developers don't have enough money to be worth suing.

And I also agree that courts are not the best place to handle problems like this.


climb4free


Jan 3, 2011, 9:40 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
Why can't sport climber clean up after their climb ?

tell me, what is the logic behind leaving your sh*t hanging on the wall when you could easily clip and move on ?

Does two second time to clip in slows them down or uses a lot of their energy ?

bunch of pus*ies with skinny harness and skinny 6.9mm rope who can't even carry six QDs on their harnesses.

Where's the Facebook "Like" button?

And I climb primarily sport routes.


dynosore


Jan 3, 2011, 9:49 PM
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Re: [jmeizis] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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jmeizis wrote:
Jay worded it a little better than you. I get what you're driving at. So it sounds like in honoring or respecting the FA's style you're allowing certain rights, correct? The right to name it, the right to add or remove bolts, the right to fix draws on it, cut rings if people won't stop TRing through them, and so on?

It's not total control over the route but FA's maintain some minor control over that patch of rock that they climbed first. They can't sell it or anything but they have the right to make certain changes to it that others are excluded from making. These conventions of allowing certain rights, abilities, or honors, that aren't available to others is the basis of property rights. While climbing routes eventually fall under the umbrella of real property ownership be it public or private land those rights given to the FA's by the climbing community are a sort of possessory interest. So if you regard any FA as having rights to make changes (minor as they may be) then you're de facto allowing a possessory interest.

Wrong. The FA has no control over who climbs their route, they aren't going to "occupy" it, and they don't have a valid claim of ownership. The situation does not meet the definition of "possessory ownership" in any regards. Sometimes it's better to say nothing than pretend you know what you're talking about.


majid_sabet


Jan 3, 2011, 10:00 PM
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dynosore wrote:
jmeizis wrote:
Jay worded it a little better than you. I get what you're driving at. So it sounds like in honoring or respecting the FA's style you're allowing certain rights, correct? The right to name it, the right to add or remove bolts, the right to fix draws on it, cut rings if people won't stop TRing through them, and so on?

It's not total control over the route but FA's maintain some minor control over that patch of rock that they climbed first. They can't sell it or anything but they have the right to make certain changes to it that others are excluded from making. These conventions of allowing certain rights, abilities, or honors, that aren't available to others is the basis of property rights. While climbing routes eventually fall under the umbrella of real property ownership be it public or private land those rights given to the FA's by the climbing community are a sort of possessory interest. So if you regard any FA as having rights to make changes (minor as they may be) then you're de facto allowing a possessory interest.

Wrong. The FA has no control over who climbs their route, they aren't going to "occupy" it, and they don't have a valid claim of ownership. The situation does not meet the definition of "possessory ownership" in any regards. Sometimes it's better to say nothing than pretend you know what you're talking about.

Does FA has a responsibility over what they place on the wall ? ie, installing questionable rap anchors or low grades (one time use) bolt ?


Partner cracklover


Jan 3, 2011, 10:15 PM
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MS1 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Two things:

1 - The thief was lying from beginning to end. I've little doubt that he will be more careful next time, but that there will be a next time.

2 - Outside of the narrow pissing match with Jay and Moose, I think the question of liability *is* an interesting one, and worth discussing.

Let's take the case that happened recently in Australia, in which a party equipped a route poorly, resulting in a bad accident. It was claimed that the party had been warned beforehand (by one of the most well-respected local developers) *not* to use the type of bolt they had in mind, and/or *not* to bolt the line they had in mind (because the rock was known to be poor).

The party was on a mission to do an FA each place they went, and they disregarded the advice that was given.

Let's say this happened in the US, and that both parties were US citizens. Wouldn't there be a good claim for negligence, even under Jay's more strict interpretation?

As a climber, I would strongly hope that we would police/look after our own. This means vilify the bolters so they could never develop another route, and raise the $$ to help out the fallen climber. It means keep it out of the court.

But in reality, I see no reason to think it *would* stay out of court. Further, I see no reason to think that the injured party wouldn't stand a good chance of winning. And if this happened, it could create a legal precedent that would be very damaging to further development.

GO

The law varies from state to state, but in most states this sounds like a viable claim as a matter of formal law. Under the most common version of the comparative negligence rule, the question would be whether clipping those bolts as they appeared from a climber's perspective was more negligent than placing them in their bad condition, having been advised that the bolts and the rock were unsound. People generally view climbing as crazy, so that is an obstacle for your plaintiffs, but I don't think the claim would be worthless; the plaintiff could probably obtain a reasonable settlement.

As I said above, the real reason you don't see these claims has nothing to do with the legal rules, but instead it is because most route developers don't have enough money to be worth suing.

And I also agree that courts are not the best place to handle problems like this.

Well in the situation I'm referring to, I don't believe the climbers in question had any sure reason to know that the bolts were poor. They were good quality bolts and hangers, just not appropriate for the rock, and possibly poorly placed (may have been too wide a hole for the bolt). However, two things that *would* make the jury put some blame back on them are the facts that they were 1 - off route, and 2 - their ability was not up the the route they were on.

GO


notapplicable


Jan 3, 2011, 10:24 PM
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jmeizis wrote:
Jay worded it a little better than you. I get what you're driving at.

No, you don't. I am talking far more about the route and the style in which it was done than I am the person. Preserving the route as it was first climbed is a reverential nod to them and their contribution but it is not about them, it is not for their sake.


In reply to:
Now if that follows then you either agree or disagree with what I said before about people who claim rights to a route needing to take responsibility for it and things that happen with it.

No

In reply to:
Ken, I said willingly accept. While I have certainly climbed above crappy bolts, pitons, gear, screws, etc. I didn't do it because I wanted to climb above crappy equipment, I wanted to climb the route and the risk I felt of falling was less than the risk I felt of the gear failing. If I had a rusty 1/4" bolt next to a bomber glue in I don't have to accept the crappy bolt. If there is only the crappy bolt my choices are to back off (which is not always easy or safer), just solo the route, or clip the bolt. I don't believe that a lack of desireable choices means we willingly accept the best option currently available. If someone robs you at gunpoint and they tell you to hand over your wallet or get shot in the face would you say either choice was willing?

If you haven't WILLINGLY accepted that any fixed gear or anchor may be damaged or missing, and along with that all the associated risks, before you leave the ground, well...I'm pretty much at a loss for words. I honestly don't know what you think is happening out there on the rock.

In reply to:
Maybe I am way off base. Maybe no route developers feel any interest in what happens to their routes. People don't bitch if someone adds or removes bolts from a route that isn't there's, and no FA tell people they have permission to add or remove bolts from a route.

*Face palm*


kaizen


Jan 3, 2011, 10:47 PM
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jmeizis wrote:
Jay worded it a little better than you. I get what you're driving at. So it sounds like in honoring or respecting the FA's style you're allowing certain rights, correct? The right to name it, the right to add or remove bolts, the right to fix draws on it, cut rings if people won't stop TRing through them, and so on?

It's not total control over the route but FA's maintain some minor control over that patch of rock that they climbed first. They can't sell it or anything but they have the right to make certain changes to it that others are excluded from making. These conventions of allowing certain rights, abilities, or honors, that aren't available to others is the basis of property rights. While climbing routes eventually fall under the umbrella of real property ownership be it public or private land those rights given to the FA's by the climbing community are a sort of possessory interest. So if you regard any FA as having rights to make changes (minor as they may be) then you're de facto allowing a possessory interest. Whether you like it or not I think that's giving them a claim of some sort of ownership.

Now if that follows then you either agree or disagree with what I said before about people who claim rights to a route needing to take responsibility for it and things that happen with it.

Ken, I said willingly accept. While I have certainly climbed above crappy bolts, pitons, gear, screws, etc. I didn't do it because I wanted to climb above crappy equipment, I wanted to climb the route and the risk I felt of falling was less than the risk I felt of the gear failing. If I had a rusty 1/4" bolt next to a bomber glue in I don't have to accept the crappy bolt. If there is only the crappy bolt my choices are to back off (which is not always easy or safer), just solo the route, or clip the bolt. I don't believe that a lack of desireable choices means we willingly accept the best option currently available. If someone robs you at gunpoint and they tell you to hand over your wallet or get shot in the face would you say either choice was willing?

As for the routes you've put up. While you desire that they stay the same you aren't checking up on them or bitching if someone changes them. I don't think all FA's do keep such interest in the routes they put up but I do know some FA's who do keep such interest, if not in all the routes they put up, at least some of them. I don't think a FA who puts up a route and leaves it to the masses is making any sort of possessory claim and therefore bears no responsibility for what happens after them. If on the other hand they do claim some sort of rights to the route then they can't shirk everything that I think goes along with that.

Maybe I am way off base. Maybe no route developers feel any interest in what happens to their routes. People don't bitch if someone adds or removes bolts from a route that isn't there's, and no FA tell people they have permission to add or remove bolts from a route.

I don't post much, but I have seen you get shit on in a lot of other threads. I thought that it was pretty unfair to you in a lot of cases.

This is my lightbulb moment.


schu


Jan 3, 2011, 11:28 PM
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notapplicable wrote:
jt512 wrote:
jmeizis wrote:
I can't tell if you're saying your honoring of a FA is simply honorific or if there having done the FA entitles them to certain rights in regards to a route they put up.

I think that what he said is clear. He's saying the same I am, above.

Jay

This is exactly right.

I'm beginning to hope that jmeizis is actually this sites most talented troll.
In reply to:
Otherwise this is profoundly embarrassing
.

As a longtime C. Springs local, this is really embarrassing - first off you you have the pubic hair bearded draw thief that should of gotten his ass beat into the ground. As if that weren't enough to soil our local climbing community's image then you have Jmoron's rant about every FA needing to ensure the safety of every subsequent climber on any of their routes... forever.

Jerimiah, are you suggesting I travel around upgrading hardware, prying off loose holds, scraping lichen on every route I've put up in the last 25 years? I've got a job and a family dude- that ain't happnin'.

Jmeizis and draw thief are not representative of Colorado Springs climbers, but I'm sure you all already knew that... /end rant


jmeizis


Jan 4, 2011, 12:03 AM
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I suppose I used too broad of a brush. In some circumstances we willingly accept certain risks. If I can see the bolts are bad from the ground and I choose to climb it anyways then I'm willingly accepting that risk but once I'm up there and find the circumstances I think it's less willing. We take precautions and make risk averse decisions precisely because we don't willingly accept all risks.

As for gear failure inherent in climbing I guess I agree that it's something I realize is a possibility but I don't think that means it's inherent. I think if more people felt that gear failure was an intrinsic part of climbing they wouldn't do it. I wouldn't do it. It's because gear rarely fails that I feel comfortable climbing. Accepting that climbing is risky I don't think means that you accept gear failure when used properly as an inseperable part of climbing. Failure of inadequate gear or damaged gear sure. I think less than 20 reported gear failures in almost 60 years says a lot about that.

I too have climbed up to two bolts where one was an old 1/4"er and the other a nice SS 1/2"er. I clipped the 1/2"er. Smile

Now maybe it's different where you live but some people here get pissy about their FA's. I won't name anyone but someone put anchors on a classic route that wasn't their's. The FA went and chopped them. He's been chopping the rings on his routes because people are toproping through them. I'm not going to get into whether I agree with what they're doing but that particular FA's seems to feel more ownership of their routes than some others do. Perhaps that's skewing my perception a bit. Obviously there's no concensus on this otherwise people wouldn't have discussions about adding or removing bolts to routes and talking to FA's about it.

I think it's a little complicated. If you don't give some pseudo ownership of a route to the FA then I think you're de facto leaving decisions about it to the whims of the masses. Personally I don't like the idea of that. I don't like the idea of the FA being responsible for the gear on the route long after they've climbed it either if they're not claiming any sort of special rights in regards to the route.

Dynosore, there's a reason I kept saying "sort of", "pseudo", and "interest". Because you're right it's not real ownership like I own my house. But allowing someone to do something to something and excluding others from doing it is the basis of ownership. That ownership is only as valid as the people who recognize it. So if nobody recognizes any rights of a FA to do anything to a route then there are none. It sounds like people do recognize, during a certain time period perhaps, that the FA can add/remove bolts, change their locations, etc. and thus some level of interest that is stronger than that of people other than the FA's.

You certainly have not persuaded me that you know anymore about what you're talking about than I do.

Schu, you aren't doing the local community any better buddy. Obviously you didn't thouroughly read what I wrote because I'm not ranting, simply providing a different viewpoint. What you wrote is not my viewpoint. If you or someone else can provide a cohesive thought that opposes my actual viewpoint without explicitly or implicitly suggesting that I'm an idiot then go for it. Nowhere have I said that my viewpoint is the correct one. There isn't a correct one. If you and all the other people want to pretend that your view is the correct one then by all means let your circle jerk continue but I'm going to the gym.


MS1


Jan 4, 2011, 12:23 AM
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Re: [cracklover] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
MS1 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Two things:

1 - The thief was lying from beginning to end. I've little doubt that he will be more careful next time, but that there will be a next time.

2 - Outside of the narrow pissing match with Jay and Moose, I think the question of liability *is* an interesting one, and worth discussing.

Let's take the case that happened recently in Australia, in which a party equipped a route poorly, resulting in a bad accident. It was claimed that the party had been warned beforehand (by one of the most well-respected local developers) *not* to use the type of bolt they had in mind, and/or *not* to bolt the line they had in mind (because the rock was known to be poor).

The party was on a mission to do an FA each place they went, and they disregarded the advice that was given.

Let's say this happened in the US, and that both parties were US citizens. Wouldn't there be a good claim for negligence, even under Jay's more strict interpretation?

As a climber, I would strongly hope that we would police/look after our own. This means vilify the bolters so they could never develop another route, and raise the $$ to help out the fallen climber. It means keep it out of the court.

But in reality, I see no reason to think it *would* stay out of court. Further, I see no reason to think that the injured party wouldn't stand a good chance of winning. And if this happened, it could create a legal precedent that would be very damaging to further development.

GO

The law varies from state to state, but in most states this sounds like a viable claim as a matter of formal law. Under the most common version of the comparative negligence rule, the question would be whether clipping those bolts as they appeared from a climber's perspective was more negligent than placing them in their bad condition, having been advised that the bolts and the rock were unsound. People generally view climbing as crazy, so that is an obstacle for your plaintiffs, but I don't think the claim would be worthless; the plaintiff could probably obtain a reasonable settlement.

As I said above, the real reason you don't see these claims has nothing to do with the legal rules, but instead it is because most route developers don't have enough money to be worth suing.

And I also agree that courts are not the best place to handle problems like this.

Well in the situation I'm referring to, I don't believe the climbers in question had any sure reason to know that the bolts were poor. They were good quality bolts and hangers, just not appropriate for the rock, and possibly poorly placed (may have been too wide a hole for the bolt). However, two things that *would* make the jury put some blame back on them are the facts that they were 1 - off route, and 2 - their ability was not up the the route they were on.

GO

Well, as far as that goes, it's pretty much up for grabs in terms of what a judge or jury would think. I think to the average non-climber, just climbing on lead on bolts that an unknown person placed looks pretty reckless. A good plaintiff's lawyer would try to educate them regarding the relative safety of sport climbing, but you'd be fighting some pretty strongly ingrained ideas to the contrary.

In my own mind, I think the nature of the crag should factor into things significantly. Is this a popular, closely bolted sport crag where most other routes are bolted by knowledgable people? Then I think a reasonable climber should feel pretty comfortable trusting the bolts on a random route. (I certainly would.) Is this a pretty wild area with a few bolted-on-lead trad lines and a healthy amount of choss? Then I think the onus is much more on the climbers to investigate the quality of rock and bolts (including, potentially, asking around for some history about the FA) before getting on a route. This last point is especially applicable in your example, given that this climb was hard for the climbers and involved apparently challenging route-finding issues.


jt512


Jan 4, 2011, 12:41 AM
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Re: [jmeizis] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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jmeizis wrote:
But allowing someone to do something to something and excluding others from doing it is the basis of ownership. That ownership is only as valid as the people who recognize it. So if nobody recognizes any rights of a FA to do anything to a route then there are none. It sounds like people do recognize, during a certain time period perhaps, that the FA can add/remove bolts, change their locations, etc. and thus some level of interest that is stronger than that of people other than the FA's.

Jeremy, anybody has a right to add bolts to any route, and anybody has the right to chop the added bolts.

Jay


jakedatc


Jan 4, 2011, 12:41 AM
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bearbreeder wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
[
QDs are rated to 15 KN with soft material hanging all day and all night exposed to cold and hot conditions with people taking falls on them on regular bases. bolt and hanger are rated to 25+ KN in one set condition and last five time longer than any QDs.

Does 2+2 adds up 4.5 ?


Why can't sport climber clean up after their climb ?


tell me, what is the logic behind leaving your sh*t hanging on the wall when you could easily clip and move on ?

Does two second time to clip in slows them down or uses a lot of their energy ?

bunch of pus*ies with skinny harness and skinny 6.9mm rope who can't even carry six QDs on their harnesses.

says the flamer who can't lead 5.8 yet Wink

im sure youve got no problems clipping al yr draws on-sighting 5.4s mista majid ... unfortunately its not that easy on climbs that are a tad harder ...

Tongue

exactly, my guess is that anyone in here saying project draws are booty are just like the dick in the OP that can't climb hard enough to realize the real advantage to having fixed draws and probably never will.

Hey majid.. down clean these will ya?



schu


Jan 4, 2011, 12:53 AM
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Your actual viewpoint that FA's should be held responsible for going around and maintaining all of their routes indefinitely is complete bullshit in my opinion. If the route is popular, it will get maintained by the local community or the FA - no big deal.
My cohesive thought is that some climbers put up a shit ton of routes over the years - some good, some not so good. To suggest they go around maintaining and keeping track of every one of them is completely retarded, not to mention impossible.


sungam


Jan 4, 2011, 1:09 AM
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Bats wrote:
Sunny,

I am confused about this sport climbing issues. That is why I am asking you. What constitute legitimate booty from theft? I thought you cleaned after you climbed on sport or trad, and not leave any gear for days.
The way I look at it the owners and qd thief are equally guilty.
The difference between booty and in-situ gear is quite simply intent. If someone left draws up for a reasonable, er, reason - then leave 'em, they're there for a reason. Reasonable is , of course, like all things dependant on the person. If you think that leaving project draws up is unreasonable fair enough, don't do it and encourage others not to as well. But if you think that project draws being left up are unreasonable enough to take them then you're a douche.

Booty is when someone leaves something behind by messing up, getting in over their heads, or just being stupid. If you lower off and you forgot to thread the chains and grab your draws and you can't be assed to climb another lap and get them back, then there is a plesent surprise for the next person (or maybe for convinience's sake they'll hang around). Or if you simply can't do the moves and lower off and leave something behind - classic booty.
Or if you can't get a piece of pro out and I can - it's mine. You left it for dead anyways so cool beans.


Hope that helps, mr bats.


ubu


Jan 4, 2011, 1:59 AM
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I dunno, I can see where that guy is coming from. Once I got really pissed seeing a mess of draws that had been left on a couple routes for what seemed like months, so I cleaned the entire wall.

I'm banned from that gym now.


jmeizis


Jan 4, 2011, 3:48 AM
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If it's a free for all then my previous assertions were indeed way off base. Oops. My worry in it being a free for all is that in certain circumstances we all lose. But what can we do about it? Hell if I know.

schu wrote:
Your actual viewpoint that FA's should be held responsible for going around and maintaining all of their routes indefinitely is complete bullshit in my opinion. If the route is popular, it will get maintained by the local community or the FA - no big deal.
My cohesive thought is that some climbers put up a shit ton of routes over the years - some good, some not so good. To suggest they go around maintaining and keeping track of every one of them is completely retarded, not to mention impossible.

You're right, if I had said that it would be incredibly stupid for FA's to maintain all the routes they put up. I didn't say that though. I added a caveat in which that only applied if they made some sort of claim that the route belonged to them or only they could alter the nature of it. Apparently few first ascencionists make such claims so I don't think they have any responsibility for what happens after their first ascent of the route.

By the way, if routes are left to the community to maintain then the community in Colorado Springs is lagging. I only know of two people replacing bolts in the Garden. Tell you what. Buy me a drill and I'll make it my goal for the summer season to replace every piton or bad bolt in the entire park. That can be our way of giving back to the community.


jt512


Jan 4, 2011, 4:39 AM
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Re: [jmeizis] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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*sigh* Please quote the portion of the post you are responding to. I know it makes it harder to win by obfuscation, but it does at least make the argument possible to follow.

What I wrote:
Jeremy, anybody has a right to add bolts to any route, and anybody has the right to chop the added bolts.

jmeizis wrote:
If it's a free for all then my previous assertions were indeed way off base. Oops. My worry in it being a free for all is that in certain circumstances we all lose. But what can we do about it? Hell if I know.

If you want to actually come to an understand of this issue, then consider the following paradox: even though anybody has a right to add bolts to any route, and anybody has the right to chop the added bolts, "free for alls" (ie, bolt wars) are uncommon.

Once you can explain that paradox, you'll stop making stupid posts about FAists rights, route ownership (pseudo or otherwise), and liability.

Jay


jmeizis


Jan 4, 2011, 7:24 AM
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Sorry, I figured you were smart enough to figure it out. I don't think a free for all necessarily means a bolt war although that would be such an instance. Just off the top of my head these are the places I could think of that have had bolting controversies. Some recent some old.

El Cajon
Boulder Canyon
Compressor Route
Most of New England
Southern Arizona
South Platte

I can probably dredge up more bolting controversies than you can injuries resulting from the failure of properly used climbing equipment. Guess there isn't a paradox after all.

Why would I stop making my stupid posts? Then I'd miss out on all your witty repartee. Well this was fun.


majid_sabet


Jan 4, 2011, 7:56 AM
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jakedatc wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
[
QDs are rated to 15 KN with soft material hanging all day and all night exposed to cold and hot conditions with people taking falls on them on regular bases. bolt and hanger are rated to 25+ KN in one set condition and last five time longer than any QDs.

Does 2+2 adds up 4.5 ?


Why can't sport climber clean up after their climb ?


tell me, what is the logic behind leaving your sh*t hanging on the wall when you could easily clip and move on ?

Does two second time to clip in slows them down or uses a lot of their energy ?

bunch of pus*ies with skinny harness and skinny 6.9mm rope who can't even carry six QDs on their harnesses.

says the flamer who can't lead 5.8 yet Wink

im sure youve got no problems clipping al yr draws on-sighting 5.4s mista majid ... unfortunately its not that easy on climbs that are a tad harder ...

Tongue

exactly, my guess is that anyone in here saying project draws are booty are just like the dick in the OP that can't climb hard enough to realize the real advantage to having fixed draws and probably never will.

Hey majid.. down clean these will ya?
[image]http://mountainproject.com/images/83/78/106588378_large_1ce71b.jpg[/image]

that is like 50 QDs @ $500 cash on ebay so what is the GPS UTM location ?


jt512


Jan 4, 2011, 8:23 AM
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jmeizis wrote:
Sorry, I figured you were smart enough to figure it out. I don't think a free for all necessarily means a bolt war although that would be such an instance....

Clueless twit. Sorry, I figured you were smart. I won't make that mistake again.

Jay


Partner j_ung


Jan 4, 2011, 1:50 PM
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That's pretty fucking ugly.


Gmburns2000


Jan 4, 2011, 2:10 PM
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j_ung wrote:
[image]http://mountainproject.com/images/83/78/106588378_large_1ce71b.jpg[/image]

That's pretty fucking ugly.

that was my first reaction, too, but I understand why the draws are there, even if I think they shouldn't be.


Partner j_ung


Jan 4, 2011, 2:38 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
j_ung wrote:
[image]http://mountainproject.com/images/83/78/106588378_large_1ce71b.jpg[/image]

That's pretty fucking ugly.

that was my first reaction, too, but I understand why the draws are there, even if I think they shouldn't be.

Sure. I'm also not stating an opinion on local ethics one way or another, nor what I think the future of those draws should be. I'm just saying, "Ick."


jakedatc


Jan 4, 2011, 2:41 PM
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j_ung wrote:
[image]http://mountainproject.com/images/83/78/106588378_large_1ce71b.jpg[/image]

That's pretty fucking ugly.

ict.

You'd want to downclean stuff at the motherlode or bob marley jay?


jakedatc


Jan 4, 2011, 2:44 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
[
QDs are rated to 15 KN with soft material hanging all day and all night exposed to cold and hot conditions with people taking falls on them on regular bases. bolt and hanger are rated to 25+ KN in one set condition and last five time longer than any QDs.

Does 2+2 adds up 4.5 ?


Why can't sport climber clean up after their climb ?


tell me, what is the logic behind leaving your sh*t hanging on the wall when you could easily clip and move on ?

Does two second time to clip in slows them down or uses a lot of their energy ?

bunch of pus*ies with skinny harness and skinny 6.9mm rope who can't even carry six QDs on their harnesses.

says the flamer who can't lead 5.8 yet Wink

im sure youve got no problems clipping al yr draws on-sighting 5.4s mista majid ... unfortunately its not that easy on climbs that are a tad harder ...

Tongue

exactly, my guess is that anyone in here saying project draws are booty are just like the dick in the OP that can't climb hard enough to realize the real advantage to having fixed draws and probably never will.

Hey majid.. down clean these will ya?
[image]http://mountainproject.com/images/83/78/106588378_large_1ce71b.jpg[/image]

that is like 50 QDs @ $500 cash on ebay so what is the GPS UTM location ?

ha... it is in an area of the country where a severe beat down would result if you took them. you wouldn't make it to the parking lot.


Partner j_ung


Jan 4, 2011, 4:23 PM
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jakedatc wrote:
j_ung wrote:
[image]http://mountainproject.com/images/83/78/106588378_large_1ce71b.jpg[/image]

That's pretty fucking ugly.

ict.

You'd want to downclean stuff at the motherlode or bob marley jay?

j_ung wrote:
I'm also not stating an opinion on local ethics one way or another, nor what I think the future of those draws should be. I'm just saying, "Ick."


jakedatc


Jan 4, 2011, 4:32 PM
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j_ung wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
j_ung wrote:
[image]http://mountainproject.com/images/83/78/106588378_large_1ce71b.jpg[/image]

That's pretty fucking ugly.

ict.

You'd want to downclean stuff at the motherlode or bob marley jay?

j_ung wrote:
I'm also not stating an opinion on local ethics one way or another, nor what I think the future of those draws should be. I'm just saying, "Ick."

saw that :) I think they have a place so i'm not offended by them very much.


spikeddem


Jan 4, 2011, 5:33 PM
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Here's what I don't get: Why did the guy steal the draws? How is it worth the time? If he stole 8 draws, he could maybe fetch $40-$60.


majid_sabet


Jan 4, 2011, 5:36 PM
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spikeddem wrote:
Here's what I don't get: Why did the guy steal the draws? How is it worth the time? If he stole 8 draws, he could maybe fetch $40-$60.

its not the money but pleasure of taking it down.


redlude97


Jan 4, 2011, 6:26 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
Here's what I don't get: Why did the guy steal the draws? How is it worth the time? If he stole 8 draws, he could maybe fetch $40-$60.

its not the money but pleasure of taking it down.
Yes, because its been agreed upon that he was just doing his ethical duty


sungam


Jan 4, 2011, 7:48 PM
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Okay, I just gotta know - if you would have done the same in that situation, just 'fess up now. We all know you're a douchebag so just be straight up and say "douchebag" if you would have done the same.


(This post was edited by sungam on Jan 6, 2011, 2:16 PM)


bill413


Jan 4, 2011, 8:11 PM
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sungam wrote:
Okay, let's all vote. Is he a douchebag extrodanair or not?


Vote by saying either "douchebag" or "not a douchebag".

"douchebag"


kennoyce


Jan 4, 2011, 8:19 PM
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douchebag


snoopy138


Jan 4, 2011, 8:20 PM
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sungam wrote:
Okay, let's all vote. Am I a douchebag extrodanair or not?


Vote by saying either "douchebag" or "not a douchebag".

fixed, and definitely a douchebag.


sp115


Jan 4, 2011, 8:30 PM
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King of the red-headed, funny-hat-wearin', MF douchebags.


Partner cracklover


Jan 4, 2011, 8:56 PM
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spikeddem wrote:
Here's what I don't get: Why did the guy steal the draws? How is it worth the time? If he stole 8 draws, he could maybe fetch $40-$60.

Actually, he had just stolen (at least) *two* routes worth of draws.

Did you see all the stuff hanging off his harness?

GO


NJSlacker


Jan 5, 2011, 4:41 AM
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cracklover wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
Here's what I don't get: Why did the guy steal the draws? How is it worth the time? If he stole 8 draws, he could maybe fetch $40-$60.

Actually, he had just stolen (at least) *two* routes worth of draws.

Did you see all the stuff hanging off his harness?

GO

yep. Until I'm making 40-60 dollars per hour legally, that would have been worth my time too.

That is, if I were a douchebag like this guy.


spikeddem


Jan 5, 2011, 4:51 AM
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NJSlacker wrote:
cracklover wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
Here's what I don't get: Why did the guy steal the draws? How is it worth the time? If he stole 8 draws, he could maybe fetch $40-$60.

Actually, he had just stolen (at least) *two* routes worth of draws.

Did you see all the stuff hanging off his harness?

GO

yep. Until I'm making 40-60 dollars per hour legally, that would have been worth my time too.

That is, if I were a douchebag like this guy.

It's too short-sighted to put it at $40/$60 an hour. You gotta figure in gas to get around the country (can't continually target the same crags), time spent snagging draws, time spent finding draws, time spent posting ads/finding buyers. In the end if you're only stealing draws, you won't be making piss.


moose_droppings


Jan 5, 2011, 5:59 AM
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spikeddem wrote:
NJSlacker wrote:
cracklover wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
Here's what I don't get: Why did the guy steal the draws? How is it worth the time? If he stole 8 draws, he could maybe fetch $40-$60.

Actually, he had just stolen (at least) *two* routes worth of draws.

Did you see all the stuff hanging off his harness?

GO

yep. Until I'm making 40-60 dollars per hour legally, that would have been worth my time too.

That is, if I were a douchebag like this guy.

It's too short-sighted to put it at $40/$60 an hour. You gotta figure in gas to get around the country (can't continually target the same crags), time spent snagging draws, time spent finding draws, time spent posting ads/finding buyers. In the end if you're only stealing draws, you won't be making piss.

Don't forget the doctor bills too.


spikeddem


Jan 5, 2011, 4:18 PM
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Re: [moose_droppings] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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Personally, I have no qualms with leaving up project draws. I do have a couple issues with some things people say to defend them, however.

If you're working a route, and you do not have a friend that can use the route as a warm-up, then go ahead and leave them up. The problem that I see is that many people have justified leaving draws up because it is either 5.14 (in this case) or steep (red river gorge references). If the first sentence of this paragraph is the case, then I say go ahead and leave them up, whether the route is 5.8 or 5.14. Otherwise it is just elitist bologna. 5.14 is hard for a 5.13+ climber to hang draws on, and 5.8 is hard for a 5.7+ climber to hang draws on. Either both get to hang draws; neither get to hang draws; or you find a new argument as to why 5.14 is legit for project draws, but 5.8 isn't.

As for steep?

No project draws allowed here:





The first image is both steep and a 14, and people manage to survive without project draws. The same is true of all of the 12+'s and 13's at that cliff as well.

I'm all for project draws: they're a HUGE convenience, but to say that it's more legit for a 5.14'er at his/her limit to have them than a 5.10'er at his/her limit is elitist, IMO.


jakedatc


Jan 5, 2011, 4:59 PM
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My steep point was the removal and cleaning process involved with steep stuff. It can happen at any grade but generally very steep isn't going to be under .12

There is a route at rumney that cannot be TR'd without shredding your rope because of the way the line runs so it has fixed draws on it. you also end up 50' out from the start when you get down so you can imagine the tension and action on the rope if you tried to downclean it while lowering.

There are definitely routes with draws there that are pure convenience but they are confined to a few cliffs where people are working routes a lot.

I don't believe the BS about hanging a draw on an ascent vs clipping a prehung draw for one bit. Sure there are occasional clips that are difficult to do both actions but if you have a clue how to clip then it should not be a major factor.


adam14113


Jan 5, 2011, 5:41 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
Here's what I don't get: Why did the guy steal the draws? How is it worth the time? If he stole 8 draws, he could maybe fetch $40-$60.

its not the money but pleasure of taking it down.

well isn't somebodyyyyy's a sadistic pyscho


lena_chita
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Jan 5, 2011, 6:53 PM
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spikeddem wrote:
If you're working a route, and you do not have a friend that can use the route as a warm-up, then go ahead and leave them up. The problem that I see is that many people have justified leaving draws up because it is either 5.14 (in this case) or steep (red river gorge references). If the first sentence of this paragraph is the case, then I say go ahead and leave them up, whether the route is 5.8 or 5.14. Otherwise it is just elitist bologna. 5.14 is hard for a 5.13+ climber to hang draws on, and 5.8 is hard for a 5.7+ climber to hang draws on. Either both get to hang draws; neither get to hang draws; or you find a new argument as to why 5.14 is legit for project draws, but 5.8 isn't.

I see what you are getting at, but here is the thing:
those "project draws" are not things that just appear. They are usually draws that someone bought, brought with them, and hung. I think most strong/experienced climbers who decide to leave project draws are aware of the posibility that they might just never get those draws back, but they are O.K. with it, and statistically speaking, they have reasons to be. (see below)



On 5.14s, there are usually only a few people working a route at any given time. And they all know each other, pretty much, at least on a distant basis, because the pool gets smaller at higher grades. And they also know whose draws are hanging on the route. "These are Ians', those are Ryan's, etc.". A combination of small group/personal knowlegde/route difficulty makes the likelihood of draw stealing small, and people who have been climbing a while are also more likely to have enough gear to hang a route full of draws to project, and still have a full set of draws for climbing other random routes.

Now, contrast it with a 5.8 climb. In a busy area, there would be dozens of people climbing it in any given day. Unless they are a part of a big college-club-first-climbing-trip-woohoo gangbang, they don't know each other. And in most cases they are also acutely aware of how expensive that just-bought gear was for them. And in many cases they are also pumped full of conflicting, and not always accurate information about hazzards of climbing. I once had people refuse to let me climb on their draws (because it is unsafe Crazy ), even though they were stuck, couldn't finish the route, and I offered to take the draws down for them. Still scratching my head about it...

Is there a climber who is projecting 5.8, and who is willing to leave his OWN just-bought draws on that project, knowing full well that they might not get the draws back?
If so, they could try it.

Want to bet that those draws on 5.8 would be stolen by a fellow under-5.10 climber, maybe even a climber who happily clipped those draws on the way up, and finally redpointed the route thanks to pre-hung draws?

I myself would never remove draws from a fully hung boltline, regardless of the grade, and everyone I know wouldn't, either. Fully hung line = leave them alone.
One random draw or 'biner somewhere in the middle of the route, esp right under the crux = usually booty, unless they are obviously there for the ease of cleaning.

So, in my mind, it's not the case of "how come 5.14 climbers get away with pre-hung draws, but 5.10 mere mortals have to hang and clean their own every time?"-- But rather a case of "5.14 climbers are willing to leave their gear hanging on a project, and 5.10 climbers are not."


Partner camhead


Jan 5, 2011, 7:01 PM
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spikeddem wrote:
.. to say that it's more legit for a 5.14'er at his/her limit to have them than a 5.10'er at his/her limit is elitist, IMO.

Elist, and true.


spikeddem


Jan 5, 2011, 7:10 PM
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Re: [lena_chita] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
If you're working a route, and you do not have a friend that can use the route as a warm-up, then go ahead and leave them up. The problem that I see is that many people have justified leaving draws up because it is either 5.14 (in this case) or steep (red river gorge references). If the first sentence of this paragraph is the case, then I say go ahead and leave them up, whether the route is 5.8 or 5.14. Otherwise it is just elitist bologna. 5.14 is hard for a 5.13+ climber to hang draws on, and 5.8 is hard for a 5.7+ climber to hang draws on. Either both get to hang draws; neither get to hang draws; or you find a new argument as to why 5.14 is legit for project draws, but 5.8 isn't.

I see what you are getting at, but here is the thing:
those "project draws" are not things that just appear. They are usually draws that someone bought, brought with them, and hung. I think most strong/experienced climbers who decide to leave project draws are aware of the posibility that they might just never get those draws back, but they are O.K. with it, and statistically speaking, they have reasons to be. (see below)



On 5.14s, there are usually only a few people working a route at any given time. And they all know each other, pretty much, at least on a distant basis, because the pool gets smaller at higher grades. And they also know whose draws are hanging on the route. "These are Ians', those are Ryan's, etc.". A combination of small group/personal knowlegde/route difficulty makes the likelihood of draw stealing small, and people who have been climbing a while are also more likely to have enough gear to hang a route full of draws to project, and still have a full set of draws for climbing other random routes.

Now, contrast it with a 5.8 climb. In a busy area, there would be dozens of people climbing it in any given day. Unless they are a part of a big college-club-first-climbing-trip-woohoo gangbang, they don't know each other. And in most cases they are also acutely aware of how expensive that just-bought gear was for them. And in many cases they are also pumped full of conflicting, and not always accurate information about hazzards of climbing. I once had people refuse to let me climb on their draws (because it is unsafe Crazy ), even though they were stuck, couldn't finish the route, and I offered to take the draws down for them. Still scratching my head about it...

Is there a climber who is projecting 5.8, and who is willing to leave his OWN just-bought draws on that project, knowing full well that they might not get the draws back?
If so, they could try it.

Want to bet that those draws on 5.8 would be stolen by a fellow under-5.10 climber, maybe even a climber who happily clipped those draws on the way up, and finally redpointed the route thanks to pre-hung draws?

I myself would never remove draws from a fully hung boltline, regardless of the grade, and everyone I know wouldn't, either. Fully hung line = leave them alone.
One random draw or 'biner somewhere in the middle of the route, esp right under the crux = usually booty, unless they are obviously there for the ease of cleaning.


So, in my mind, it's not the case of "how come 5.14 climbers get away with pre-hung draws, but 5.10 mere mortals have to hang and clean their own every time?"-- But rather a case of "5.14 climbers are willing to leave their gear hanging on a project, and 5.10 climbers are not."

That was a well thought out response. I agree with the bolded paragraph completely.


spikeddem


Jan 5, 2011, 7:16 PM
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camhead wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
.. to say that it's more legit for a 5.14'er at his/her limit to have them than a 5.10'er at his/her limit is elitist, IMO.

Elist, and true.

Well, it seems to me that by definition it cannot be both elitist and true. Elitist implies that a group has special privileges based purely upon some kind of superiority, even if the privileges do not logically follow from their superiority (being "allowed" to leave draws because they climb a harder grade). Thus, at least to me, it seems that it does not make sense to say that it is both "legitimate" and "elitist."


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Jan 5, 2011, 7:49 PM
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spikeddem wrote:
camhead wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
.. to say that it's more legit for a 5.14'er at his/her limit to have them than a 5.10'er at his/her limit is elitist, IMO.

Elist, and true.

Well, it seems to me that by definition it cannot be both elitist and true. Elitist implies that a group has special privileges based purely upon some kind of superiority, even if the privileges do not logically follow from their superiority (being "allowed" to leave draws because they climb a harder grade). Thus, at least to me, it seems that it does not make sense to say that it is both "legitimate" and "elitist."

Elitism can often be based in reality.

And your statement about "privileges not logically following..." is wrong. Draws hung on harder grades will affect fewer people, and the people whom they do affect are more likely to have a consensus about hung draws than the user base of climbs 5.12 and under. It is completely logical.

I caught a lot of flack for this sort of thing a few years ago when I left draw hanging on a moderately difficult Gunks route. By doing so, I was depriving or hindering people of the experience of placing gear on lead on a 5.12. Had I left gear on, say, High Exposure, I would have deprived or hindered people of the experience of placing gear on lead on a 5.6; which is the larger group of people affected?


Gmburns2000


Jan 5, 2011, 8:06 PM
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camhead wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
camhead wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
.. to say that it's more legit for a 5.14'er at his/her limit to have them than a 5.10'er at his/her limit is elitist, IMO.

Elist, and true.

Well, it seems to me that by definition it cannot be both elitist and true. Elitist implies that a group has special privileges based purely upon some kind of superiority, even if the privileges do not logically follow from their superiority (being "allowed" to leave draws because they climb a harder grade). Thus, at least to me, it seems that it does not make sense to say that it is both "legitimate" and "elitist."

Elitism can often be based in reality.

And your statement about "privileges not logically following..." is wrong. Draws hung on harder grades will affect fewer people, and the people whom they do affect are more likely to have a consensus about hung draws than the user base of climbs 5.12 and under. It is completely logical.

I caught a lot of flack for this sort of thing a few years ago when I left draw hanging on a moderately difficult Gunks route. By doing so, I was depriving or hindering people of the experience of placing gear on lead on a 5.12. Had I left gear on, say, High Exposure, I would have deprived or hindered people of the experience of placing gear on lead on a 5.6; which is the larger group of people affected?

definitely on Kansas City because, by default, at the end of the day, the chances of said gear still being left of High E are close to nil.


spikeddem


Jan 5, 2011, 8:12 PM
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camhead wrote:
Draws hung on harder grades will affect fewer people, and the people whom they do affect are more likely to have a consensus about hung draws than the user base of climbs 5.12 and under. It is completely logical.

So then where is the line?

I'm all for hung draws, but hell, let everyone hang 'em. It's sport climbing after all.


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Jan 5, 2011, 8:22 PM
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spikeddem wrote:
camhead wrote:
Draws hung on harder grades will affect fewer people, and the people whom they do affect are more likely to have a consensus about hung draws than the user base of climbs 5.12 and under. It is completely logical.

So then where is the line?

I'm all for hung draws, but hell, let everyone hang 'em. It's sport climbing after all.

It's not a line. It's a gray area determined by community consensus and the likelihood that your gear will get stolen.


marc801


Jan 5, 2011, 8:44 PM
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camhead wrote:
It's not a line. It's a gray area determined by community consensus and the likelihood that your gear will get stolen.
Some areas have handled this by using chains as fixed draws.


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Ok, Chris Kalous over on mountainproject posted what should be the definitive statement on this whole thing. Quoted in full:

In reply to:
First of all, why haven't all the aid climbers disappeared into the tar pits by now like dinosaurs. This is what happens when you let them just roam free.

Second: this sounds like a bunch of kids trying to hammer out the rules to kick the can or something. Only children want ethics to be black and white, no negotiation, what works here and now will work everywhere and always. The only rule is don't be an asshole. For example:

This guy stealing draws: asshole.

Aiding up any free route that is too hard for you just to take gear: asshole, no, I take that back, just sad and lonely

Taking a skanky draw that is a few bolts up and obviously a bail-off: not an asshole.

Pulling bolts, hangers, or chains off a route: asshole

Pulling bolts and hangers off a piece of shite that the community has decided is a waste of space and an eye-sore: not an asshole

Leaving draws up on yer proj regardless of the grade at a sport area: not and asshole

Leaving unsightly pre-placed gear or ropes up at a known trad area: asshole

Leaving pre-placed gear up on a your new route that is in the middle of no-where while you work it: not an asshole

Fixed mini-traxion ropes left on classic or popular routes: asshole

Mini-traxion ropes left out of clear site on the Amazing Obscuro Dome: well, actually, you are still probably an asshole and need to find some friends.

Leaving up fixed ropes for your personal photograper/videographer: professional asshole

Leaving behind fixed ropes in an emergency or accident: not an asshole (but you oughta try and go get them)

Pulling obviously (because you live there and have talked with anyone who would know and have been looking at them for 5 years) abandoned and rotten and dangerous draws off a route: not an asshole

Threading a fixed anchor that has biners so you can take them or pulling all but one piece out of a fixed anchor: asshole (and idiot)

Finding half somebody's rack strung out on a pitch after a rain storm and NOT making an effort to post a note or talk to the local shop, etc.: asshole

Keeping said rack after a reasonable and satisfying attempt by you to find the defendant: not an asshole

Lying to the face of said party about having gear or refusing to return it: greedy asshole in need of a beating

Pulling an unknown bail anchor: not an asshole

Pulling an unknown piece that somebody stuck: not an asshole

Pulling a piece that a party above you left and NOT offering it back at the next common belay or back in camp: asshole

Pulling a piece that belongs to somebody you know (even barely, even if you don't like him/her) and not offering it back at your convenience: asshole (this one will get a "yeah, but...", but, sorry, you are an asshole)

Doing anything that in yer gut makes you feel like a dick: well?

If in your next breathe you have to start some convoluted defense of your actions: hmmm?

But, sometimes doing what you want may require you to be an asshole. New routing tactics, for example, often infringe on others in many ways. Accept it, minimize it, and if somebody confronts you don't launch into a tirade about how rad you are and what a gumby he is. Instead, apologize, explain why its necessary, and how you will do this or that to make it right. A decent person sprouts from the ashes of an asshole.

Just do the right thing. You don't need an ethics manual rolled up in your back pocket to check. We have all crossed the asshole line, and gleefully pulled so and so's stuck gear while mumbling "gumby" under our breathe, but was that junky cam worth our fleeting ego trip? What makes you feel better is "hey, slim, I managed to get yer cam out of Vigorous Vaj up on the Gargantua, want it back?" He or she might say no anyway.

And if fixed draws bum you out, so should bolts, and so don't go sport climbing (you are also gonna need a time machine). Eldo awaits- just try to ignore all the tat hanging off the fixed pins and slung horns and trees...

Finally, the golden circle- be cool to those you meet out there, they just might be pulling traction on yer broken femur a few minutes later while you wail like, well, an asshole.


justroberto


Jan 5, 2011, 11:02 PM
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spikeddem wrote:
As for steep?

No project draws allowed here:




Whoa. where is that? I'm totally going to stick-clip my way up that line to yoink the two manky leaver biners on the adjacent route.


rinkratt25


Jan 6, 2011, 12:44 AM
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i will not use disregarded gear. but ill take them down and throw them out….. I don’t like bolts but I understand the necessity… so if an area tolerates bolts why do u need to leave even more crap on the rock..


majid_sabet


Jan 6, 2011, 5:30 AM
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http://www.redriverclimbing.com/...php?f=21&t=13270


jakedatc


Jan 6, 2011, 5:50 AM
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point? check the gear you clip and replace it if it is needed.

gumby fucking noob


majid_sabet


Jan 6, 2011, 7:22 AM
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jakedatc wrote:

point? check the gear you clip and replace it if it is needed.

gumby fucking noob

whos call who a n00b ?

listen you weak hot dog , when you were little sucking milkee off your mama , I was climbing

you are still sucking some other type of milk and I am still climbing


here add some sugar and do not bite


he may not like it


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jan 6, 2011, 5:46 PM)


jakedatc


Jan 6, 2011, 2:02 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
jakedatc wrote:

point? check the gear you clip and replace it if it is needed.

gumby fucking noob

whos call who a n00b ?

listen you weak hot dog , when you were little sucking mike off your mama , I was climbing

you are still sucking some other type of milk and I am still climbing


here add some sugar and do not bite


he may not like it

you're the one who doesn't understand how to deal with fixed gear.

i was on 2 routes this summer where i didn't like the wear on a biner and swapped it out with another one. wow.. that was hard. same should have been done on the route at the Red.


sungam


Jan 6, 2011, 2:10 PM
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jakedatc wrote:
i was on 2 routes this summer where i didn't like the wear on a biner and swapped it out with another one. wow.. that was hard. same should have been done on the route at the Red.
Ask chossmonkey if he has a photo of the 'biners they yoinked off the warmup at bob marley. Etch-o-sketch!


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Jan 6, 2011, 2:13 PM
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Well, there you have it. One easily preventable freak incident obviously invalidates the presence of thousands of fixed draws across the world.


jakedatc


Jan 6, 2011, 2:15 PM
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you mean like this one that i took off the 3rd bolt of Orangahang?



justroberto


Jan 6, 2011, 2:18 PM
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But seriously - where were those pics from?


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Jan 6, 2011, 2:23 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
whos call who a n00b ?

listen you weak hot dog , when you were little sucking mike off your mama , I was climbing

Who's Mike?

Oh, and the incident at the Red was a case of someone falling at the first bolt. For this type of accident to happen again, you would have to 1) not check the biner 2) have the biner be worn, and 3) fall at the first bolt.

n other words, there are easy things to do in order to insure against a very unlikely occurrence, and the whole thing is SO freak and unlikely that we really can't draw any large conclusions from it. Apart from the conclusion that Majid is an idiot.


sungam


Jan 6, 2011, 2:29 PM
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worst switcharoo in my life but I still chuckeled.


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Jan 6, 2011, 2:29 PM
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justroberto wrote:
But seriously - where were those pics from?

I think it's a crag in Minnesota. Can't remember what it's called, but it's supposed to be really good. Unfortunately, it is a state and/or local park that does not allow climbing on weekends, so pretty much only twin cities locals can go there.


chadnsc


Jan 6, 2011, 3:47 PM
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camhead wrote:
justroberto wrote:
But seriously - where were those pics from?

I think it's a crag in Minnesota. Can't remember what it's called, but it's supposed to be really good. Unfortunately, it is a state and/or local park that does not allow climbing on weekends, so pretty much only twin cities locals can go there.

I assume you're talking about Willow River? If so your information about not allowing climbing on the weekends is incorrect. Were by chance did you hear this rumor?


spikeddem


Jan 6, 2011, 3:51 PM
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justroberto wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
As for steep?

No project draws allowed here:

[image]http://mountainproject.com/images/15/85/106261585_large_ebdba3.jpg[/image]

[image]http://mountainproject.com/images/9/39/106240939_large_fe2567.jpg[/image]
Whoa. where is that? I'm totally going to stick-clip my way up that line to yoink the two manky leaver biners on the adjacent route.
Northern Midwest.


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Jan 6, 2011, 3:53 PM
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chadnsc wrote:
camhead wrote:
justroberto wrote:
But seriously - where were those pics from?

I think it's a crag in Minnesota. Can't remember what it's called, but it's supposed to be really good. Unfortunately, it is a state and/or local park that does not allow climbing on weekends, so pretty much only twin cities locals can go there.

I assume you're talking about Willow River? If so your information about not allowing climbing on the weekends is incorrect. Were by chance did you hear this rumor?

Yeah, I did not know the name, but mountainproject's section on Willow River is definitely the one.

It says "Climbing is allowed on weekdays when the park is open. Climbing is prohibited on Friday and Sunday after 12 noon, and climbing is not allowed at all on Saturday."

http://mountainproject.com/...state_park/105795588

Is that still in effect?


chadnsc


Jan 6, 2011, 3:58 PM
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Hmmm, that is odd and new news to me!

I don't remember those restritions being in place this past summer but if MP is showing that the park doesn't want climbing on the weekends then it must be true.

I learn somthing new every day!


spikeddem


Jan 6, 2011, 3:59 PM
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chadnsc wrote:
camhead wrote:
justroberto wrote:
But seriously - where were those pics from?

I think it's a crag in Minnesota. Can't remember what it's called, but it's supposed to be really good. Unfortunately, it is a state and/or local park that does not allow climbing on weekends, so pretty much only twin cities locals can go there.

I assume you're talking about Willow River? If so your information about not allowing climbing on the weekends is incorrect. Were by chance did you hear this rumor?

It's essentially the correct. No climbing on Saturdays, and no climbing after noon on Sundays. I'd say it's safe to say that camheads larger conclusion (MN/WI locals only) is correct.

MP.com link There's only about 30 routes there (many are link-ups, see this photo), one-third of which are 5.13 or harder. There are only five routes less than 5.12, so you gotta be strong. I get spanked when I go there, but it's a very unique place for the midwest, and the climbing is challenging so I enjoy it.


spikeddem


Jan 6, 2011, 4:00 PM
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Wow, I got GU'd really hardcore.


spikeddem


Jan 6, 2011, 4:04 PM
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camhead wrote:
It says "Climbing is allowed on weekdays when the park is open. Climbing is prohibited on Friday and Sunday after 12 noon, and climbing is not allowed at all on Saturday."

http://mountainproject.com/...state_park/105795588

Is that still in effect?

Yes, it's been the case since the MN/WI guidebook came out (2000) at least. Doesn't seem to show any signs of changing. The park is very much a hiker/tourist/cross-country skier place first, and climbing crag fifth/sixth, as far as rangers are concerned. There is an overlook across the falls, which places the cliff directly behind the river/falls. I guess the rangers do not want people's view of the river/cliff to have climbers in it. This is also the purpose (as far as I can tell) for not allowing project draws.


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Jan 6, 2011, 5:32 PM
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Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to remove such a draw from any route in the world, even if I didn't have the gear necessary to replace it. However, the draw in the link you posted WAS NOT A PROJECT DRAW. Yet again you have made a point that is not in dispute, and have done so as though you were Indiana Jones shooting the sword guy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkLXdLgOybE


majid_sabet


Jan 6, 2011, 5:41 PM
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In reply to:

you're the one who doesn't understand how to deal with fixed gear.

i was on 2 routes this summer where i didn't like the wear on a biner and swapped it out with another one. wow.. that was hard. same should have been done on the route at the Red.

Are you expecting me to climb and do the weekly maintenance on your route?


majid_sabet


Jan 6, 2011, 5:45 PM
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j_ung wrote:

Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to remove such a draw from any route in the world, even if I didn't have the gear necessary to replace it. However, the draw in the link you posted WAS NOT A PROJECT DRAW. Yet again you have made a point that is not in dispute, and have done so as though you were Indiana Jones shooting the sword guy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkLXdLgOybE

As a sworn climber ,its our duty to clean dangerous or worn fixed equipment and there are no argument there but are we going to be lucky in detecting every one of these ?


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Jan 6, 2011, 5:54 PM
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You're right, excellent post. But did you notice...

camhead wrote:
Ok, Chris Kalous over on mountainproject posted what should be the definitive statement on this whole thing. Quoted in full:

In reply to:
<snip>
Leaving unsightly pre-placed gear or ropes up at a known trad area: asshole
<snip>

GLaugh


jakedatc


Jan 6, 2011, 5:58 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
In reply to:

you're the one who doesn't understand how to deal with fixed gear.

i was on 2 routes this summer where i didn't like the wear on a biner and swapped it out with another one. wow.. that was hard. same should have been done on the route at the Red.

Are you expecting me to climb and do the weekly maintenance on your route?

I don't know anyone who gets on a route with fixed draws that doesn't bring at least one of their own draws with them in case: a biner looks like crap, a draw is missing for some reason, an extra bolt has been placed, for clipping into while working the route.

maybe if you knew about climbing instead of just dead people you would understand. but clearly you don't so please quit now.


sp115


Jan 6, 2011, 6:03 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
j_ung wrote:

Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to remove such a draw from any route in the world, even if I didn't have the gear necessary to replace it. However, the draw in the link you posted WAS NOT A PROJECT DRAW. Yet again you have made a point that is not in dispute, and have done so as though you were Indiana Jones shooting the sword guy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkLXdLgOybE

As a sworn climber ,its our duty to clean dangerous or worn fixed equipment and there are no argument there but are we going to be lucky in detecting every one of these ?

Then replace it with something of your own. Same thing I would do while trad climbing if I came across a piece of fixed gear, a rusty piton, or a shitty bolt. In fact it happens all the time.

You make it sound like someone has littered the cliff with booby-traps and forced you at gun-point to climb.


(This post was edited by sp115 on Jan 6, 2011, 6:04 PM)


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Jan 6, 2011, 6:05 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
j_ung wrote:

Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to remove such a draw from any route in the world, even if I didn't have the gear necessary to replace it. However, the draw in the link you posted WAS NOT A PROJECT DRAW. Yet again you have made a point that is not in dispute, and have done so as though you were Indiana Jones shooting the sword guy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkLXdLgOybE

As a sworn climber ,its our duty to clean dangerous or worn fixed equipment and there are no argument there but are we going to be lucky in detecting every one of these ?

Project draws are by definition temporary. Nobody is arguing that worn fixed gear (which is by definition not temporary) shouldn't be removed.


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Jan 6, 2011, 6:10 PM
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cracklover wrote:
You're right, excellent post. But did you notice...

camhead wrote:
Ok, Chris Kalous over on mountainproject posted what should be the definitive statement on this whole thing. Quoted in full:

In reply to:
<snip>
Leaving unsightly pre-placed gear or ropes up at a known trad area: asshole
<snip>

GLaugh

I definitely noticed that. I'm the asshole!


altelis


Jan 6, 2011, 6:12 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
j_ung wrote:

Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to remove such a draw from any route in the world, even if I didn't have the gear necessary to replace it. However, the draw in the link you posted WAS NOT A PROJECT DRAW. Yet again you have made a point that is not in dispute, and have done so as though you were Indiana Jones shooting the sword guy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkLXdLgOybE


I sure didn't take any oath before I started. Who do I talk to in order to correct this oversight?
As a sworn climber ,its our duty to clean dangerous or worn fixed equipment and there are no argument there but are we going to be lucky in detecting every one of these ?


jakedatc


Jan 6, 2011, 6:13 PM
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j_ung wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
j_ung wrote:

Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to remove such a draw from any route in the world, even if I didn't have the gear necessary to replace it. However, the draw in the link you posted WAS NOT A PROJECT DRAW. Yet again you have made a point that is not in dispute, and have done so as though you were Indiana Jones shooting the sword guy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkLXdLgOybE

As a sworn climber ,its our duty to clean dangerous or worn fixed equipment and there are no argument there but are we going to be lucky in detecting every one of these ?

Project draws are by definition temporary. Nobody is arguing that worn fixed gear (which is by definition not temporary) shouldn't be removed.

removed and hopefully replaced.. that is what bail biners are for.

majid is too slow in the head to grasp that people pay attention to the gear and routes they are climbing on. It was a rare and dumb mistake for the RRG person to not see that the first bolt was worn through like that. considering it happened once and there are hundreds of draws up at the Red like others have said it a weak piece of evidence.

I would hazard a guess that majid has never climbed on a route with fixed or project draws on it so his experience is pretty limited.


suprasoup


Jan 6, 2011, 6:16 PM
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altelis wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
j_ung wrote:

Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to remove such a draw from any route in the world, even if I didn't have the gear necessary to replace it. However, the draw in the link you posted WAS NOT A PROJECT DRAW. Yet again you have made a point that is not in dispute, and have done so as though you were Indiana Jones shooting the sword guy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkLXdLgOybE


I sure didn't take any oath before I started. Who do I talk to in order to correct this oversight?
As a sworn climber ,its our duty to clean dangerous or worn fixed equipment and there are no argument there but are we going to be lucky in detecting every one of these ?

You talk to this man:Laugh




lena_chita
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Jan 6, 2011, 7:59 PM
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jakedatc wrote:
j_ung wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
j_ung wrote:

Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to remove such a draw from any route in the world, even if I didn't have the gear necessary to replace it. However, the draw in the link you posted WAS NOT A PROJECT DRAW. Yet again you have made a point that is not in dispute, and have done so as though you were Indiana Jones shooting the sword guy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkLXdLgOybE

As a sworn climber ,its our duty to clean dangerous or worn fixed equipment and there are no argument there but are we going to be lucky in detecting every one of these ?

Project draws are by definition temporary. Nobody is arguing that worn fixed gear (which is by definition not temporary) shouldn't be removed.

removed and hopefully replaced.. that is what bail biners are for.

majid is too slow in the head to grasp that people pay attention to the gear and routes they are climbing on. It was a rare and dumb mistake for the RRG person to not see that the first bolt was worn through like that. considering it happened once and there are hundreds of draws up at the Red like others have said it a weak piece of evidence.

I would hazard a guess that majid has never climbed on a route with fixed or project draws on it so his experience is pretty limited.

I am guessing that he considers project and fixed draws to be the same.

Sometimes there is evolution where project draws eventualy become fixed draws.

For example, my understanding is that the Undertow Wall at the Lode didn't used to have draws hanging on climbs like Chainsaw or Ale8. Then there were random motley draws that were hanging there most of the time. Then the draw before the crux got a chain. And then, eventually, this fall all the draws became true "fixed" draws.

I can see this happening over time...

Community consensus changes over time, and things are not black and white, or decided on any sort of "scientific" or consistent basis.

But some people just can't grasp that. They want it to be simple cleare=-cut black-and-white one-size-fits-all. More specifically, they want THEIR 'size' to fit all.


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Jan 6, 2011, 11:06 PM
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lena_chita wrote:
But some people just can't grasp that. They want it to be simple cleare=-cut black-and-white one-size-fits-all. More specifically, they want THEIR 'size' to fit all.

I can see where they're coming from. It can be frustrating. My "size" does not fit all. I discovered this some years ago. You simply have to learn to accommodate accordingly.

Wait, what are we talking about?

GO


bearbreeder


Jan 7, 2011, 8:22 AM
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majid_sabet wrote:
jakedatc wrote:

point? check the gear you clip and replace it if it is needed.

gumby fucking noob

whos call who a n00b ?

listen you weak hot dog , when you were little sucking milkee off your mama , I was climbing

you are still sucking some other type of milk and I am still climbing


here add some sugar and do not bite


he may not like it

mista majid ... when u project yr 5.7 routes ... im sure you can take off all yr draws Tongue

majid looks ... ooooo ... theres draws hanging ... ooo they must all be unsafe .... i must save all those idiot 5.14 climbers from certain death ... take all the draws!!! .... cause majid is ALWAYS right


Wink


lena_chita
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Jan 7, 2011, 4:10 PM
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cracklover wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
But some people just can't grasp that. They want it to be simple cleare=-cut black-and-white one-size-fits-all. More specifically, they want THEIR 'size' to fit all.

I can see where they're coming from. It can be frustrating. My "size" does not fit all. I discovered this some years ago. You simply have to learn to accommodate accordingly.

Wait, what are we talking about?

GO

Not THAT. Tongue


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Jan 7, 2011, 4:25 PM
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lena_chita wrote:
cracklover wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
But some people just can't grasp that. They want it to be simple cleare=-cut black-and-white one-size-fits-all. More specifically, they want THEIR 'size' to fit all.

I can see where they're coming from. It can be frustrating. My "size" does not fit all. I discovered this some years ago. You simply have to learn to accommodate accordingly.

Wait, what are we talking about?

GO

Not THAT. Tongue

I was talking about... um... crack climbing - yeah that's it. What did you think I meant?

GWink


spikeddem


Jan 7, 2011, 4:36 PM
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cracklover wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
cracklover wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
But some people just can't grasp that. They want it to be simple cleare=-cut black-and-white one-size-fits-all. More specifically, they want THEIR 'size' to fit all.

I can see where they're coming from. It can be frustrating. My "size" does not fit all. I discovered this some years ago. You simply have to learn to accommodate accordingly.

Wait, what are we talking about?

GO

Not THAT. Tongue

I was talking about... um... crack climbing - yeah that's it. What did you think I meant?

GWink
I thought you were talking about sex.


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Jan 7, 2011, 4:49 PM
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spikeddem wrote:
cracklover wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
cracklover wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
But some people just can't grasp that. They want it to be simple cleare=-cut black-and-white one-size-fits-all. More specifically, they want THEIR 'size' to fit all.

I can see where they're coming from. It can be frustrating. My "size" does not fit all. I discovered this some years ago. You simply have to learn to accommodate accordingly.

Wait, what are we talking about?

GO

Not THAT. Tongue

I was talking about... um... crack climbing - yeah that's it. What did you think I meant?

GWink
I thought you were talking about sex.

Aspergers much?

GO


spikeddem


Jan 7, 2011, 4:53 PM
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cracklover wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
cracklover wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
cracklover wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
But some people just can't grasp that. They want it to be simple cleare=-cut black-and-white one-size-fits-all. More specifically, they want THEIR 'size' to fit all.

I can see where they're coming from. It can be frustrating. My "size" does not fit all. I discovered this some years ago. You simply have to learn to accommodate accordingly.

Wait, what are we talking about?

GO

Not THAT. Tongue

I was talking about... um... crack climbing - yeah that's it. What did you think I meant?

GWink
I thought you were talking about sex.

Aspergers much?

GO
I prefer ribs.


lena_chita
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Jan 7, 2011, 6:18 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
cracklover wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
But some people just can't grasp that. They want it to be simple cleare=-cut black-and-white one-size-fits-all. More specifically, they want THEIR 'size' to fit all.

I can see where they're coming from. It can be frustrating. My "size" does not fit all. I discovered this some years ago. You simply have to learn to accommodate accordingly.

Wait, what are we talking about?

GO

Not THAT. Tongue

I was talking about... um... crack climbing - yeah that's it. What did you think I meant?

GWink

One Size Fits All route at Rumney? Angelic That's the only thing that came to mind...


majid_sabet


Jan 7, 2011, 6:31 PM
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Re: [sp115] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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sp115 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
j_ung wrote:

Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to remove such a draw from any route in the world, even if I didn't have the gear necessary to replace it. However, the draw in the link you posted WAS NOT A PROJECT DRAW. Yet again you have made a point that is not in dispute, and have done so as though you were Indiana Jones shooting the sword guy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkLXdLgOybE

As a sworn climber ,its our duty to clean dangerous or worn fixed equipment and there are no argument there but are we going to be lucky in detecting every one of these ?

Then replace it with something of your own. Same thing I would do while trad climbing if I came across a piece of fixed gear, a rusty piton, or a shitty bolt. In fact it happens all the time.

You make it sound like someone has littered the cliff with booby-traps and forced you at gun-point to climb.

replacing bad bolt, bad hanger is not the same as replacing QDs . these guys leave QDs cause they are lazy and they don't want to waste time while climbing. They just want the zipper down fast, bang bang and go and that aint happening in my backyard.

put 10 QDs on your harness, climb like a climber, reach the hanger, clip and then go on. you can climb all day long with QDs hanging in there but take them down when you go home.


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jan 7, 2011, 6:33 PM)


majid_sabet


Jan 7, 2011, 6:35 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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jakedatc wrote:
j_ung wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
j_ung wrote:

Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to remove such a draw from any route in the world, even if I didn't have the gear necessary to replace it. However, the draw in the link you posted WAS NOT A PROJECT DRAW. Yet again you have made a point that is not in dispute, and have done so as though you were Indiana Jones shooting the sword guy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkLXdLgOybE

As a sworn climber ,its our duty to clean dangerous or worn fixed equipment and there are no argument there but are we going to be lucky in detecting every one of these ?

Project draws are by definition temporary. Nobody is arguing that worn fixed gear (which is by definition not temporary) shouldn't be removed.

removed and hopefully replaced.. that is what bail biners are for.

majid is too slow in the head to grasp that people pay attention to the gear and routes they are climbing on. It was a rare and dumb mistake for the RRG person to not see that the first bolt was worn through like that. considering it happened once and there are hundreds of draws up at the Red like others have said it a weak piece of evidence.

I would hazard a guess that majid has never climbed on a route with fixed or project draws on it so his experience is pretty limited.

yaa, may be but i am writing a book on climbing accident and i got plenty of reports with blood on them


sp115


Jan 7, 2011, 7:07 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
sp115 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
j_ung wrote:

Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to remove such a draw from any route in the world, even if I didn't have the gear necessary to replace it. However, the draw in the link you posted WAS NOT A PROJECT DRAW. Yet again you have made a point that is not in dispute, and have done so as though you were Indiana Jones shooting the sword guy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkLXdLgOybE

As a sworn climber ,its our duty to clean dangerous or worn fixed equipment and there are no argument there but are we going to be lucky in detecting every one of these ?

Then replace it with something of your own. Same thing I would do while trad climbing if I came across a piece of fixed gear, a rusty piton, or a shitty bolt. In fact it happens all the time.

You make it sound like someone has littered the cliff with booby-traps and forced you at gun-point to climb.

replacing bad bolt, bad hanger is not the same as replacing QDs . these guys leave QDs cause they are lazy and they don't want to waste time while climbing. They just want the zipper down fast, bang bang and go and that aint happening in my backyard.

put 10 QDs on your harness, climb like a climber, reach the hanger, clip and then go on. you can climb all day long with QDs hanging in there but take them down when you go home.

Lazy? That's a bit disingenuous, it's also not important. What is important in the context of this discussion is that local ethics should apply. This wasn't in your backyard, it was in somebody elses, and they get to write the rules.


patmay81


Jan 7, 2011, 7:36 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
bill413 wrote:
adam14113 wrote:
I wouldn't have been as nice as those guys

I was amazed at how civil they were to him. And, at the thief's unconcern about theft.

taking a draw is not against law. in fact it is against the law to leave pieces on the wall and I do not understand why lazy sport climbers have to leave their unsafe draws on every wall.loose some of those fat pounds out of your love handles and carry six freaking draws on your harness and clip and clean it after you are done.And those draws are unsafe cause you do not know how many people have taken a fall on them and one of these days, one will break and kills a climber.
Have you ever met Ian?!!
one fit climber... don't steal draws!


marc801


Jan 7, 2011, 7:49 PM
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sp115 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
replacing bad bolt, bad hanger is not the same as replacing QDs . these guys leave QDs cause they are lazy and they don't want to waste time while climbing. They just want the zipper down fast, bang bang and go and that aint happening in my backyard.

put 10 QDs on your harness, climb like a climber, reach the hanger, clip and then go on. you can climb all day long with QDs hanging in there but take them down when you go home.

Lazy? That's a bit disingenuous, it's also not important. What is important in the context of this discussion is that local ethics should apply. This wasn't in your backyard, it was in somebody elses, and they get to write the rules.
Alas, once again, MS is being aggressively ignorant on a subject and inexplicably still fails to understand the simple difference between project draws and perma-draws.


jakedatc


Jan 7, 2011, 9:08 PM
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Re: [marc801] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
sp115 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
replacing bad bolt, bad hanger is not the same as replacing QDs . these guys leave QDs cause they are lazy and they don't want to waste time while climbing. They just want the zipper down fast, bang bang and go and that aint happening in my backyard.

put 10 QDs on your harness, climb like a climber, reach the hanger, clip and then go on. you can climb all day long with QDs hanging in there but take them down when you go home.

Lazy? That's a bit disingenuous, it's also not important. What is important in the context of this discussion is that local ethics should apply. This wasn't in your backyard, it was in somebody elses, and they get to write the rules.
Alas, once again, MS is being aggressively ignorant on a subject and inexplicably still fails to understand the simple difference between project draws and perma-draws.

Majid doesn't understand a lot of simple things, sport climbing, trad climbing, wall climbing, English, the overwhelming majority wanting him to disappear.


majid_sabet


Jan 7, 2011, 9:14 PM
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Re: [sp115] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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sp115 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
sp115 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
j_ung wrote:

Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to remove such a draw from any route in the world, even if I didn't have the gear necessary to replace it. However, the draw in the link you posted WAS NOT A PROJECT DRAW. Yet again you have made a point that is not in dispute, and have done so as though you were Indiana Jones shooting the sword guy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkLXdLgOybE

As a sworn climber ,its our duty to clean dangerous or worn fixed equipment and there are no argument there but are we going to be lucky in detecting every one of these ?

Then replace it with something of your own. Same thing I would do while trad climbing if I came across a piece of fixed gear, a rusty piton, or a shitty bolt. In fact it happens all the time.

You make it sound like someone has littered the cliff with booby-traps and forced you at gun-point to climb.

replacing bad bolt, bad hanger is not the same as replacing QDs . these guys leave QDs cause they are lazy and they don't want to waste time while climbing. They just want the zipper down fast, bang bang and go and that aint happening in my backyard.

put 10 QDs on your harness, climb like a climber, reach the hanger, clip and then go on. you can climb all day long with QDs hanging in there but take them down when you go home.

Lazy? That's a bit disingenuous, it's also not important. What is important in the context of this discussion is that local ethics should apply. This wasn't in your backyard, it was in somebody elses, and they get to write the rules.

sorry dude

climbing rules is universal and there are no borders when it comes to ethics. you do not sh*t on any trail and same thing applies to climbing walls.

I see QDs in France, Himalayas, Patagonia and Jim Bob rock in Dixy Alabama, I will take it down.


jakedatc


Jan 7, 2011, 9:19 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
sp115 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
sp115 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
j_ung wrote:

Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to remove such a draw from any route in the world, even if I didn't have the gear necessary to replace it. However, the draw in the link you posted WAS NOT A PROJECT DRAW. Yet again you have made a point that is not in dispute, and have done so as though you were Indiana Jones shooting the sword guy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkLXdLgOybE

As a sworn climber ,its our duty to clean dangerous or worn fixed equipment and there are no argument there but are we going to be lucky in detecting every one of these ?

Then replace it with something of your own. Same thing I would do while trad climbing if I came across a piece of fixed gear, a rusty piton, or a shitty bolt. In fact it happens all the time.

You make it sound like someone has littered the cliff with booby-traps and forced you at gun-point to climb.

replacing bad bolt, bad hanger is not the same as replacing QDs . these guys leave QDs cause they are lazy and they don't want to waste time while climbing. They just want the zipper down fast, bang bang and go and that aint happening in my backyard.

put 10 QDs on your harness, climb like a climber, reach the hanger, clip and then go on. you can climb all day long with QDs hanging in there but take them down when you go home.

Lazy? That's a bit disingenuous, it's also not important. What is important in the context of this discussion is that local ethics should apply. This wasn't in your backyard, it was in somebody elses, and they get to write the rules.

sorry dude

climbing rules is universal and there are no borders when it comes to ethics. you do not sh*t on any trail and same thing applies to climbing walls.

I see QDs in France, Himalayas, Patagonia and Jim Bob rock in Dixy Alabama, I will take it down.

please refer to diagram posted in the General thread by Cracklover. You should probably avoid admitting to such things, especially in the south.


bill413


Jan 7, 2011, 9:24 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
sorry dude

climbing rules is universal and there are no borders when it comes to ethics. you do not sh*t on any trail and same thing applies to climbing walls.

I see QDs in France, Himalayas, Patagonia and Jim Bob rock in Dixy Alabama, I will take it down.

No.

Metal pro in Frankenjura (do I have that right?) vs. almost everywhere else
New metal at the Gunks vs. new metal at Rumney
Rappel bolted routes during the bolt wars.

No. Not universal. Not timeless. Not borderless.
No matter how much, nor how little, we want it to be.


jakedatc


Jan 7, 2011, 9:30 PM
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bill413 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
sorry dude

climbing rules is universal and there are no borders when it comes to ethics. you do not sh*t on any trail and same thing applies to climbing walls.

I see QDs in France, Himalayas, Patagonia and Jim Bob rock in Dixy Alabama, I will take it down.

No.

Metal pro in Frankenjura (do I have that right?) vs. almost everywhere else
New metal at the Gunks vs. new metal at Rumney
Rappel bolted routes during the bolt wars.

No. Not universal. Not timeless. Not borderless.
No matter how much, nor how little, we want it to be.

no.. Frankenjura is bolted.. the rope place is somewhere in germany?


Partner camhead


Jan 7, 2011, 9:35 PM
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jakedatc wrote:
bill413 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
sorry dude

climbing rules is universal and there are no borders when it comes to ethics. you do not sh*t on any trail and same thing applies to climbing walls.

I see QDs in France, Himalayas, Patagonia and Jim Bob rock in Dixy Alabama, I will take it down.

No.

Metal pro in Frankenjura (do I have that right?) vs. almost everywhere else
New metal at the Gunks vs. new metal at Rumney
Rappel bolted routes during the bolt wars.

No. Not universal. Not timeless. Not borderless.
No matter how much, nor how little, we want it to be.

no.. Frankenjura is bolted.. the rope place is somewhere in germany?

Elbsandstein.


majid_sabet


Jan 7, 2011, 9:54 PM
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jakedatc wrote:
marc801 wrote:
sp115 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
replacing bad bolt, bad hanger is not the same as replacing QDs . these guys leave QDs cause they are lazy and they don't want to waste time while climbing. They just want the zipper down fast, bang bang and go and that aint happening in my backyard.

put 10 QDs on your harness, climb like a climber, reach the hanger, clip and then go on. you can climb all day long with QDs hanging in there but take them down when you go home.

Lazy? That's a bit disingenuous, it's also not important. What is important in the context of this discussion is that local ethics should apply. This wasn't in your backyard, it was in somebody elses, and they get to write the rules.
Alas, once again, MS is being aggressively ignorant on a subject and inexplicably still fails to understand the simple difference between project draws and perma-draws.

Majid doesn't understand a lot of simple things, sport climbing, trad climbing, wall climbing, English, the overwhelming majority wanting him to disappear.

who are these majority who want me out ?

put a poll and let's see

you pus*y do not have the balls to push me around kiddo and i have brought your punk ass nose down 100s of times in RC.

leaving fixed QDs is wrong and i am willing to challenge anyone who think is right to leave their sh*t hanging on the wall year around.

end of argument


snoopy138


Jan 7, 2011, 9:58 PM
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jakedatc wrote:
marc801 wrote:
sp115 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
replacing bad bolt, bad hanger is not the same as replacing QDs . these guys leave QDs cause they are lazy and they don't want to waste time while climbing. They just want the zipper down fast, bang bang and go and that aint happening in my backyard.

put 10 QDs on your harness, climb like a climber, reach the hanger, clip and then go on. you can climb all day long with QDs hanging in there but take them down when you go home.

Lazy? That's a bit disingenuous, it's also not important. What is important in the context of this discussion is that local ethics should apply. This wasn't in your backyard, it was in somebody elses, and they get to write the rules.
Alas, once again, MS is being aggressively ignorant on a subject and inexplicably still fails to understand the simple difference between project draws and perma-draws.

Majid doesn't understand a lot of simple things, sport climbing, trad climbing, wall climbing, English, the overwhelming majority wanting him to disappear.

umm ... mostly you and your anti-majid jihad. I want him to stay and continue entertaining all of us.


kachoong


Jan 7, 2011, 10:03 PM
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bearbreeder wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:

you been going after me for some times now and I am not sure if you what happens to those who point their keyboard on me.

Have you seen Angry lately ?

oooo mista majid ... are ya threatening little ole me?

going after you? .... im simply pointing out that you stated

"Does two second time to clip in slows them down or uses a lot of their energy ?

bunch of pus*ies with skinny harness and skinny 6.9mm rope who can't even carry six QDs on their harnesses."


when you admit that you havent even led 5.8 ... who are you to call people pussies .... if you cant sport climb that ... lol


perhaps you have a special deal with the rockclimbing.com gods where ya can just insult everyone freely and get people banned ... wake me up when i get angry Tongue

Wait, what? ....let's go back 10 pages.... there are rockclimbing.com gods?

I'm not believing in that!


sp115


Jan 7, 2011, 10:03 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
sp115 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
sp115 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
j_ung wrote:

Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to remove such a draw from any route in the world, even if I didn't have the gear necessary to replace it. However, the draw in the link you posted WAS NOT A PROJECT DRAW. Yet again you have made a point that is not in dispute, and have done so as though you were Indiana Jones shooting the sword guy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkLXdLgOybE

As a sworn climber ,its our duty to clean dangerous or worn fixed equipment and there are no argument there but are we going to be lucky in detecting every one of these ?

Then replace it with something of your own. Same thing I would do while trad climbing if I came across a piece of fixed gear, a rusty piton, or a shitty bolt. In fact it happens all the time.

You make it sound like someone has littered the cliff with booby-traps and forced you at gun-point to climb.

replacing bad bolt, bad hanger is not the same as replacing QDs . these guys leave QDs cause they are lazy and they don't want to waste time while climbing. They just want the zipper down fast, bang bang and go and that aint happening in my backyard.

put 10 QDs on your harness, climb like a climber, reach the hanger, clip and then go on. you can climb all day long with QDs hanging in there but take them down when you go home.

Lazy? That's a bit disingenuous, it's also not important. What is important in the context of this discussion is that local ethics should apply. This wasn't in your backyard, it was in somebody elses, and they get to write the rules.

sorry dude

climbing rules is universal and there are no borders when it comes to ethics. you do not sh*t on any trail and same thing applies to climbing walls.

I see QDs in France, Himalayas, Patagonia and Jim Bob rock in Dixy Alabama, I will take it down.

Ah, I see, it appears you're the Ken Nichols of pre-hung draws. My apologies for wasting your time by assuming we could have a rational conversation.


jakedatc


Jan 7, 2011, 10:26 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
marc801 wrote:
sp115 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
replacing bad bolt, bad hanger is not the same as replacing QDs . these guys leave QDs cause they are lazy and they don't want to waste time while climbing. They just want the zipper down fast, bang bang and go and that aint happening in my backyard.

put 10 QDs on your harness, climb like a climber, reach the hanger, clip and then go on. you can climb all day long with QDs hanging in there but take them down when you go home.

Lazy? That's a bit disingenuous, it's also not important. What is important in the context of this discussion is that local ethics should apply. This wasn't in your backyard, it was in somebody elses, and they get to write the rules.
Alas, once again, MS is being aggressively ignorant on a subject and inexplicably still fails to understand the simple difference between project draws and perma-draws.

Majid doesn't understand a lot of simple things, sport climbing, trad climbing, wall climbing, English, the overwhelming majority wanting him to disappear.

who are these majority who want me out ?

put a poll and let's see

you pus*y do not have the balls to push me around kiddo and i have brought your punk ass nose down 100s of times in RC.

leaving fixed QDs is wrong and i am willing to challenge anyone who think is right to leave their sh*t hanging on the wall year around.

end of argument

Go to the Motherlode on a weekend in april aid up any .13 you choose and try to walk out with the draws.

If you are right then you will make it, if not, you'll be a bloody mess.

keep living in your own world of delusions.


Partner cracklover


Jan 7, 2011, 10:27 PM
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sp115 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
sp115 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
sp115 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
j_ung wrote:

Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to remove such a draw from any route in the world, even if I didn't have the gear necessary to replace it. However, the draw in the link you posted WAS NOT A PROJECT DRAW. Yet again you have made a point that is not in dispute, and have done so as though you were Indiana Jones shooting the sword guy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkLXdLgOybE

As a sworn climber ,its our duty to clean dangerous or worn fixed equipment and there are no argument there but are we going to be lucky in detecting every one of these ?

Then replace it with something of your own. Same thing I would do while trad climbing if I came across a piece of fixed gear, a rusty piton, or a shitty bolt. In fact it happens all the time.

You make it sound like someone has littered the cliff with booby-traps and forced you at gun-point to climb.

replacing bad bolt, bad hanger is not the same as replacing QDs . these guys leave QDs cause they are lazy and they don't want to waste time while climbing. They just want the zipper down fast, bang bang and go and that aint happening in my backyard.

put 10 QDs on your harness, climb like a climber, reach the hanger, clip and then go on. you can climb all day long with QDs hanging in there but take them down when you go home.

Lazy? That's a bit disingenuous, it's also not important. What is important in the context of this discussion is that local ethics should apply. This wasn't in your backyard, it was in somebody elses, and they get to write the rules.

sorry dude

climbing rules is universal and there are no borders when it comes to ethics. you do not sh*t on any trail and same thing applies to climbing walls.

I see QDs in France, Himalayas, Patagonia and Jim Bob rock in Dixy Alabama, I will take it down.

Ah, I see, it appears you're the Ken Nichols of pre-hung draws. My apologies for wasting your time by assuming we could have a rational conversation.

A rational conversation with Majid? Jeez, dude, how long you been on this site and you only just figure out that's not gonna happen?

I thought it was in the FAQ when you sign up "Majid is here for entertainment purposes only. Please do not be frightened of him, but neither should you try to engage him in rational discourse."

GO


Partner j_ung


Jan 7, 2011, 11:27 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
I see QDs in France, Himalayas, Patagonia and Jim Bob rock in Dixy Alabama, I will take it down.

Liar.


(This post was edited by j_ung on Jan 7, 2011, 11:27 PM)


majid_sabet


Jan 7, 2011, 11:29 PM
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Re: [j_ung] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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j_ung wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
I see QDs in France, Himalayas, Patagonia and Jim Bob rock in Dixy Alabama, I will take it down.

Liar.

Americans are the only ones that leave QDs on the wall .

Even when they go some island in Asia, they still leave their sh*t behind


bearbreeder


Jan 8, 2011, 2:09 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:

who are these majority who want me out ?

put a poll and let's see

you pus*y do not have the balls to push me around kiddo and i have brought your punk ass nose down 100s of times in RC.

leaving fixed QDs is wrong and i am willing to challenge anyone who think is right to leave their sh*t hanging on the wall year around.

end of argument

awww poor little majid gets angry ... maybe you should go steal some draws Tongue

sowwy we arent stroking yr internet ego ... must be hard knowing that yr always right .... and that everyone else are idiots Wink


mr.tastycakes


Jan 8, 2011, 5:43 AM
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Re: [lena_chita] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
cracklover wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
cracklover wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
But some people just can't grasp that. They want it to be simple cleare=-cut black-and-white one-size-fits-all. More specifically, they want THEIR 'size' to fit all.

I can see where they're coming from. It can be frustrating. My "size" does not fit all. I discovered this some years ago. You simply have to learn to accommodate accordingly.

Wait, what are we talking about?

GO

Not THAT. Tongue

I was talking about... um... crack climbing - yeah that's it. What did you think I meant?

GWink

One Size Fits All route at Rumney? Angelic That's the only thing that came to mind...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/One_Size_Fits_All


philap


Apr 11, 2011, 2:06 AM
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lol, the descriptions are hilarious.


climber49er


Apr 12, 2011, 5:40 PM
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Re: [philap] Draw Thief Caught [In reply to]
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A little out of date, but a big thanks to the climbers that handled that SO well! You are an asset to the climbing community and the world.


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