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AdventureAng
Jan 16, 2011, 10:24 PM
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This summer, I'm hoping to plan a trip to the Adirondaks for a little climbing trip and I was hoping that you guys could help me pick the best site. Here are my requirements:
-easy climbs (5.8 and under) that have harder climbs (up to 5.11) close, available for toprope set-up
-nice views
-preferebly near a lake (large or small) that have water activities available
-lodging is prefered to be a rented cabin on the lake, or camping will do too.
I'd love to climb every day, but my body can't take that, so hopefully somebody will know of a good lcimbing area that has some other octivies too.
ANy info would help: thanks in advance.
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cush
Jan 16, 2011, 11:47 PM
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are you looking for just top roping or leads as well? multi-pitch? if you're up for trying a super-classic 5.8 multipitch then gamesmanship on pokomoonshine is a must-do.
the beer walls are a classic day cragging area with lots of great crack climbs (rockaholic being among the best) as well as one really awesome 5.11 sport climb.
barkeater cliffs are also a great day trip
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Adk
Jan 17, 2011, 12:46 AM
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Off the top of my head I'd say The Old Forge area.
There is a great campground,http://www.oldforgecamping.com/ waterpark and climbing is not too far away. Bald Mt is the closest and there are many others that are < an hour drive and hundreds that are a tad over a 2 hour drive
(This post was edited by Adk on Jan 17, 2011, 1:49 AM)
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campustrampus
Jan 17, 2011, 1:33 AM
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Just from your description I would say that you should stick to the Keene Valley/Lake Placid area. You can find lots of little cliffs like the Beer walls, the Creature wall, Pitchoff Chimney, Bark Eater. etc. At the same time there are also taller multipitch crags like chapel pond slab and hurricane crag that you could visit. For water sports you could check out Lake Placid itself or Lake Flower (which is in the town of Saranac Lake)
There is a good deal of camping, especially around Lake Placid. As for your days off, you could spend some time in Lake Placid or Saranac Lake or take the opportunity to hike some of the high peaks (the gothics, armstrong, and upper wolfjaw loop is highly recommended!)
Good luck and have fun! The Adirondacks is one of my favorite places to climb.
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LostinMaine
Jan 17, 2011, 2:19 AM
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AdventureAng wrote: This summer, I'm hoping to plan a trip to the Adirondaks for a little climbing trip and I was hoping that you guys could help me pick the best site. Here are my requirements: -easy climbs (5.8 and under) that have harder climbs (up to 5.11) close, available for toprope set-up -nice views -preferebly near a lake (large or small) that have water activities available -lodging is prefered to be a rented cabin on the lake, or camping will do too. I'd love to climb every day, but my body can't take that, so hopefully somebody will know of a good lcimbing area that has some other octivies too. ANy info would help: thanks in advance.
My suggestion is to stay at the Chapel Pond campground. You have everything right there - Beer Walls, Chapel Pond Slab, Creature Wall, Jewels and Jems Wall, Spider Web, Tillman's, etc.
Off days you can drive to Placid and do the tourist bit.
In case you haven't grabbed it yet, "Adirondack Rock" is a must-have guide book.
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Adk
Jan 17, 2011, 2:34 AM
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Can't beat LostinMaine's idea!!!
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rocknice2
Jan 17, 2011, 2:35 AM
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+2 Chapel Pond area
edit: someone beat me to it
(This post was edited by rocknice2 on Jan 17, 2011, 2:36 AM)
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rtwilli4
Jan 17, 2011, 5:22 AM
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Another vote for Chapel Pond.
Beer walls has a good variety of grades but it didn't seam like the easiest place to set up TR's. I guess it's possible on a few though.
Make sure you go to that diner in town and get some pie!
Edited to Add that Spider's Web is one of the best crags I've ever been to. If you're climbing 10's and 11's you MUST go up there.
(This post was edited by rtwilli4 on Jan 17, 2011, 5:47 AM)
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rhythm164
Jan 17, 2011, 5:34 AM
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I'll throw in for Chapel Pond as well. Good place to base out of of with lots of crags close by.
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AdventureAng
Jan 17, 2011, 2:56 PM
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Thanks for all of the suggestions everybody. Just to clarify, my trad skills are only up to like a 5.8, so I was hoping for some easy trad climbs that allow you to put up top ropes of up to 10s and 11's right in the same area. I'm not familiar with the Adirondacks at all, so are there walk-arounds too?
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sbaclimber
Jan 17, 2011, 3:04 PM
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AdventureAng wrote: I'm not familiar with the Adirondacks at all, so are there walk-arounds too?
I will have to agree with everyone else on Keene / Chapel Pond / Lake Placid. A crag like the Creature Wall at Chapel Pond would be a good option for leading up to 5.8 but being able set topropes on harder lines, if I remember correctly. And then there is the slab for easy multi-pitch just down the road.
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boymeetsrock
Jan 17, 2011, 3:26 PM
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Another vote for Chapel Pond.
Beer Walls allow for leading up to 5.8 and then hanging TR's on harder climbs. You can walk to the top of each of the Beer Walls to set TR's.
Creature wall is also good. Same as Beer walls.
Plenty of big 5.6 - 5.8 classics around Chapel Pond too.
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LostinMaine
Jan 17, 2011, 8:47 PM
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AdventureAng wrote: Thanks for all of the suggestions everybody. Just to clarify, my trad skills are only up to like a 5.8, so I was hoping for some easy trad climbs that allow you to put up top ropes of up to 10s and 11's right in the same area. I'm not familiar with the Adirondacks at all, so are there walk-arounds too?
If I were you...
Get to Chapel Pond and set up camp. Start with Jewels and Gems wall, which is easily within walking distance - low angled cracks like North Country Club Crack (5.6), Diamond and Coal (5.6) and In the Rough (maybe 5.7ish?) would be a good introduction. Drop a TR on Pearl Necklace, Coal Miner, and shaky Spider. I would end a day climbing Shipton's Voyage (54 to 5.5) and Tilman's Arete (5.7) overlooking Chapel Pond at dusk.
Spend a day at the Beer Walls (many climbs here), but the best introduction to 5.9 in the Park is by leading up Labatt-Ami (5.7) and then TRing Frosted Mug (5.9 with sketchy lower section). If you can't handle the pump on this route, be wary of anything at Spider's Web.
If the Beer Walls go well for you, get to Spider's Web for Slim Pickins , Esthesia, and Mr. Roger's Neighborhood. If you are up for a more cruiser day, get on Chapel Pond slabs for easy climbing to get some air under your feet.
For your grade, the Creature wall is made for you. Pefrect rock, excellent gear, lots of options for trad and TRing. You'll love it.
If you're up for a bit of a drive, rent a canoe and climb Little Finger on Roger's Rock. It's unforgettable for a 5.5 finger crack.
(This post was edited by LostinMaine on Jan 17, 2011, 8:48 PM)
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boymeetsrock
Jan 17, 2011, 11:13 PM
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LostinMaine wrote: AdventureAng wrote: Thanks for all of the suggestions everybody. Just to clarify, my trad skills are only up to like a 5.8, so I was hoping for some easy trad climbs that allow you to put up top ropes of up to 10s and 11's right in the same area. I'm not familiar with the Adirondacks at all, so are there walk-arounds too? If I were you... Get to Chapel Pond and set up camp. Start with Jewels and Gems wall, which is easily within walking distance - low angled cracks like North Country Club Crack (5.6), Diamond and Coal (5.6) and In the Rough (maybe 5.7ish?) would be a good introduction. Drop a TR on Pearl Necklace, Coal Miner, and shaky Spider. I would end a day climbing Shipton's Voyage (54 to 5.5) and Tilman's Arete (5.7) overlooking Chapel Pond at dusk. Spend a day at the Beer Walls (many climbs here), but the best introduction to 5.9 in the Park is by leading up Labatt-Ami (5.7) and then TRing Frosted Mug (5.9 with sketchy lower section). If you can't handle the pump on this route, be wary of anything at Spider's Web. If the Beer Walls go well for you, get to Spider's Web for Slim Pickins , Esthesia, and Mr. Roger's Neighborhood. If you are up for a more cruiser day, get on Chapel Pond slabs for easy climbing to get some air under your feet. For your grade, the Creature wall is made for you. Pefrect rock, excellent gear, lots of options for trad and TRing. You'll love it. If you're up for a bit of a drive, rent a canoe and climb Little Finger on Roger's Rock. It's unforgettable for a 5.5 finger crack.
Awesome post!
I like to climb bigger stuff personally, so I would include the a day at the Washbowl in with the above recommendation. The Weisner Route (5.6), Hesitation (5.8) and Partition (5.8).
Also just noticed your request for other than climbing activities. I haven't really seen people swimming in Chapel Pond. While I don't think it is restricted, it is not that big. You might shoot over to Lake Placid though for a day of window shopping. There you can swim, kayak, etc., and there is a climbing gym (read jerking off in a whore house) and many fine eateries.
Otherwise, you are in the Adirondacks! Beautiful hiking abounds. Giant Mountain is a nice (steep) short hike. Great way to spend a day. Round Mountain (also steep) is close by as well and not quite as long (?). Cascade Mountain is a nice easy hike (not very steep) and is short too. And of course you can drive up the back side of Whiteface.
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mr.tastycakes
Jan 18, 2011, 4:41 AM
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LostinMaine wrote: AdventureAng wrote: Thanks for all of the suggestions everybody. Just to clarify, my trad skills are only up to like a 5.8, so I was hoping for some easy trad climbs that allow you to put up top ropes of up to 10s and 11's right in the same area. I'm not familiar with the Adirondacks at all, so are there walk-arounds too? If I were you... Get to Chapel Pond and set up camp. Start with Jewels and Gems wall, which is easily within walking distance - low angled cracks like North Country Club Crack (5.6), Diamond and Coal (5.6) and In the Rough (maybe 5.7ish?) would be a good introduction. Drop a TR on Pearl Necklace, Coal Miner, and shaky Spider. I would end a day climbing Shipton's Voyage (54 to 5.5) and Tilman's Arete (5.7) overlooking Chapel Pond at dusk. Spend a day at the Beer Walls (many climbs here), but the best introduction to 5.9 in the Park is by leading up Labatt-Ami (5.7) and then TRing Frosted Mug (5.9 with sketchy lower section). If you can't handle the pump on this route, be wary of anything at Spider's Web. If the Beer Walls go well for you, get to Spider's Web for Slim Pickins , Esthesia, and Mr. Roger's Neighborhood. If you are up for a more cruiser day, get on Chapel Pond slabs for easy climbing to get some air under your feet. For your grade, the Creature wall is made for you. Pefrect rock, excellent gear, lots of options for trad and TRing. You'll love it. If you're up for a bit of a drive, rent a canoe and climb Little Finger on Roger's Rock. It's unforgettable for a 5.5 finger crack.
Good post. One excellent route that hasn't been mentioned is Quadophenia at Hurricane Crag (5.7+). It gives you 3 excellent pitches of continuous 5.7 climbing, or 2 if you link pitches 2 and 3 (recommended). If you get through that OK, give Gamesmanship a try.
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cintune
Jan 18, 2011, 6:05 PM
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I'll give another bump to the Old Forge area with the pluses being nice lakes and the fact that hardly anyone climbs the face of Bald Mountain. If you're into the whole solitude thing.
Routes are all in the 5.8-5.11 range, there's a nice topo in Adirondack Rock
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LostinMaine
Jan 19, 2011, 1:45 AM
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I haven't been to Bald mtn in a while, but the second from last picture looks like zig zag, which was a really fun off-width. That is, if any off-width can be considered fun. That overhanging 5.10 finger crack in the corner immediately to the left of zig zag was a very nice pump as well.
(This post was edited by LostinMaine on Jan 19, 2011, 1:46 AM)
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