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enigma
Jan 30, 2011, 11:37 PM
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I enjoy multi-pitch climbs and my favorite and longest was rock-on and then the ultimate everything.
It was 17-18 pitches, from 5. 10a to 5.9. It was a day climb in Squamish. What was your favorite multi-pitch climb?
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caughtinside
Jan 30, 2011, 11:52 PM
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Lotta good ones, but I think I'd have to go with Lucky Streaks in tuolumne. 5 or 6 pitches, .10c.
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blueeyedclimber
Jan 31, 2011, 12:19 AM
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Too many to list, but a few stick out for different reasons:
Epinepherine, Red Rocks, 5.9
Grand Wall, Squamish, 5.11a
Rock On, Squamish, 5.10a
Children's Crusade, North Conway, NH, 5.11a
Moby Grape, Cannon cliff, NH, 5.8
Fat City Direct, Gunks, 5.10d
and on and on......
Josh
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enigma
Jan 31, 2011, 12:29 AM
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caughtinside wrote: Lotta good ones, but I think I'd have to go with Lucky Streaks in tuolumne. 5 or 6 pitches, .10c.
Tuolumne is a mellow area, I've climbed a few times there and always had a good time.
Is it 10c throughout all the pitches or is it just one 5.10c move on Lucky Streaks?
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enigma
Jan 31, 2011, 12:38 AM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: Too many to list, but a few stick out for different reasons: Epinepherine, Red Rocks, 5.9 Grand Wall, Squamish, 5.11a Rock On, Squamish, 5.10a Children's Crusade, North Conway, NH, 5.11a Moby Grape, Cannon cliff, NH, 5.8 Fat City Direct, Gunks, 5.10d and on and on...... Josh
Epinepherine , Quite Fun. There are alot of multi-pitch climbs in Red Rocks that are great.
I haven't been back to the Gunks for a while. Though there are alot of ledges which makes it nice for a break or belay anchor.
Never climbed in New Hampshire, but heard N.Conway is a popular area.
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optic
Jan 31, 2011, 12:56 AM
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enigma wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: Too many to list, but a few stick out for different reasons: Epinepherine, Red Rocks, 5.9 Grand Wall, Squamish, 5.11a Rock On, Squamish, 5.10a Children's Crusade, North Conway, NH, 5.11a Moby Grape, Cannon cliff, NH, 5.8 Fat City Direct, Gunks, 5.10d and on and on...... Josh Epinepherine , Quite Fun. There are alot of multi-pitch climbs in Red Rocks that are great. I haven't been back to the Gunks for a while. Though there are alot of ledges which makes it nice for a break or belay anchor. Never climbed in New Hampshire, but heard N.Conway is a popular area.
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Gmburns2000
Jan 31, 2011, 1:03 AM
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Chrimson Chrysalis
Birdland (RR)
Birdland (Gunks)
Arrow (Gunks)
Ramblin' Rose (S. Platte)
I'm sure there are more, but those are pretty much at the top of the list.
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blueeyedclimber
Jan 31, 2011, 1:14 AM
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optic wrote: enigma wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: Too many to list, but a few stick out for different reasons: Epinepherine, Red Rocks, 5.9 Grand Wall, Squamish, 5.11a Rock On, Squamish, 5.10a Children's Crusade, North Conway, NH, 5.11a Moby Grape, Cannon cliff, NH, 5.8 Fat City Direct, Gunks, 5.10d and on and on...... Josh Epinepherine , Quite Fun. There are alot of multi-pitch climbs in Red Rocks that are great. I haven't been back to the Gunks for a while. Though there are alot of ledges which makes it nice for a break or belay anchor. Never climbed in New Hampshire, but heard N.Conway is a popular area. New Hampshire is a shit place to climb. Everything is swarming with gumbies and all the rock is crap, short, and crumbly. The winters are harsh, cold, and barely navigable while the summers are short and full of ticks, black flies, mosquitoes, and people who don't belong out of the cities further south. I'm serious, it's a shitty place.
Translation: I am either a NH native trying to keep enigma from visiting or got my ass whooped when I tried to climb there.
Johs
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vegastradguy
Jan 31, 2011, 1:33 AM
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Matthes Crest, Tuolomne
Grand Wall, Squamish
Adventure Punks, Red Rock
Serenity/Sons, Yosemite
Fiddler on the Roof, Red Rock
All of these left a huge smile on my face- back up against the wall, i'd probably pick Fiddler above the rest, but it'd be a shame not to mention the others.
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guangzhou
Jan 31, 2011, 1:45 AM
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enigma wrote: I enjoy multi-pitch climbs and my favorite and longest was rock-on and then the ultimate everything. It was 17-18 pitches, from 5. 10a to 5.9. It was a day climb in Squamish. What was your favorite multi-pitch climb?
Here we go again.
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optic
Jan 31, 2011, 1:45 AM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: optic wrote: enigma wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: Too many to list, but a few stick out for different reasons: Epinepherine, Red Rocks, 5.9 Grand Wall, Squamish, 5.11a Rock On, Squamish, 5.10a Children's Crusade, North Conway, NH, 5.11a Moby Grape, Cannon cliff, NH, 5.8 Fat City Direct, Gunks, 5.10d and on and on...... Josh Epinepherine , Quite Fun. There are alot of multi-pitch climbs in Red Rocks that are great. I haven't been back to the Gunks for a while. Though there are alot of ledges which makes it nice for a break or belay anchor. Never climbed in New Hampshire, but heard N.Conway is a popular area. New Hampshire is a shit place to climb. Everything is swarming with gumbies and all the rock is crap, short, and crumbly. The winters are harsh, cold, and barely navigable while the summers are short and full of ticks, black flies, mosquitoes, and people who don't belong out of the cities further south. I'm serious, it's a shitty place. Translation: I am either a NH native trying to keep enigma from visiting or got my ass whooped when I tried to climb there. Johs
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gblauer
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Jan 31, 2011, 1:47 AM
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All 23 pitches of TIme Wave Zero, El Potrero Chico
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blueeyedclimber
Jan 31, 2011, 1:51 AM
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optic wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: optic wrote: enigma wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: Too many to list, but a few stick out for different reasons: Epinepherine, Red Rocks, 5.9 Grand Wall, Squamish, 5.11a Rock On, Squamish, 5.10a Children's Crusade, North Conway, NH, 5.11a Moby Grape, Cannon cliff, NH, 5.8 Fat City Direct, Gunks, 5.10d and on and on...... Josh Epinepherine , Quite Fun. There are alot of multi-pitch climbs in Red Rocks that are great. I haven't been back to the Gunks for a while. Though there are alot of ledges which makes it nice for a break or belay anchor. Never climbed in New Hampshire, but heard N.Conway is a popular area. New Hampshire is a shit place to climb. Everything is swarming with gumbies and all the rock is crap, short, and crumbly. The winters are harsh, cold, and barely navigable while the summers are short and full of ticks, black flies, mosquitoes, and people who don't belong out of the cities further south. I'm serious, it's a shitty place. Translation: I am either a NH native trying to keep enigma from visiting or got my ass whooped when I tried to climb there. Johs Translation: I'm one of those pricks from away who doesn't belong there.
Hehe. From away? Away where? I grew up in NH but moved out. Now I only go back to climb. 
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enigma
Jan 31, 2011, 6:22 AM
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vegastradguy wrote: Matthes Crest, Tuolomne Grand Wall, Squamish Adventure Punks, Red Rock Serenity/Sons, Yosemite Fiddler on the Roof, Red Rock All of these left a huge smile on my face- back up against the wall, i'd probably pick Fiddler above the rest, but it'd be a shame not to mention the others.
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enigma
Jan 31, 2011, 6:30 AM
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gblauer wrote: All 23 pitches of TIme Wave Zero, El Potrero Chico
So how was that? I've never been to El Potrero Chico, How long did it take you? How's the rock? Very Impressive. Is that rated 5.11 or mixed moves? Excellent Accomplishment.
Pictures?
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guangzhou
Jan 31, 2011, 6:32 AM
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enigma wrote: gblauer wrote: All 23 pitches of TIme Wave Zero, El Potrero Chico So how was that? I've never been to El Potrero Chico, How long did it take you? How's the rock? Very Impressive. Is that rated 5.11 or mixed moves? Excellent Accomplishment. Pictures?
Enigma, you still make no sense to me.
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enigma
Jan 31, 2011, 6:44 AM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: Chrimson Chrysalis Birdland (RR) Birdland (Gunks) Arrow (Gunks) Ramblin' Rose (S. Platte) I'm sure there are more, but those are pretty much at the top of the list.
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camhead
Jan 31, 2011, 1:09 PM
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I don't do much mutlipitch, so pretty much every route I've done is among the best.
-Sendero Luminoso, Potrero (did not send the entire route, unfortunately)
-Original Route of Rainbow Wall, Red Rocks
Shorter Multipiches:
-Nutcracker (yes, Nutcracker), best moderate multipitch I've ever done.
-Fine Jade, Castle Valley
-Cornflake Crack, Looking Glass Rock
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blueeyedclimber
Jan 31, 2011, 1:19 PM
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camhead wrote: I don't do much mutlipitch, so pretty much every route I've done is among the best. -Sendero Luminoso, Potrero (did not send the entire route, unfortunately) -Original Route of Rainbow Wall, Red Rocks Shorter Multipiches: - Nutcracker (yes, Nutcracker), best moderate multipitch I've ever done. -Fine Jade, Castle Valley -Cornflake Crack, Looking Glass Rock
Ooh, I forgot that one. I agree. The one in Yosemite I assume you are talking about.
I also forgot:
On the Lamb, Tuolumne, 5.9
Erect Direction, Gunks, 5.10c
Sour Mash, Red Rocks, 5.10a
Sea Gypsy, Acadia, ME, 5.9+
Total Recall, North Conway, NH, 5.11b
Book of Solemnity, North Conway, NH, 5.10a
It's like asking me to pick a favorite child. Can't do it.
Josh
BTW, Enigma, Ghangzhou is right. Sometimes you make no sense and seem a little crazy. But you are positive and are starting to grow on me.
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camhead
Jan 31, 2011, 1:26 PM
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guangzhou wrote: enigma wrote: gblauer wrote: All 23 pitches of TIme Wave Zero, El Potrero Chico So how was that? I've never been to El Potrero Chico, How long did it take you? How's the rock? Very Impressive. Is that rated 5.11 or mixed moves? Excellent Accomplishment. Pictures? Enigma, you still make no sense to me.
Yeah, I'm not sure what she's asking about TWZ, either. I've done the route, it is really fun, and LONG, but the rock quality is not really up there for mega-classic status. The roite is all about quantity over quality.
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kachoong
Jan 31, 2011, 2:27 PM
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Very tough to pick a favorite! In no particular order... although I guess it's the order my brain remembers them.
Grand Wall, The Chief
Cornerstone Rib, Warrumbungles
Polar Circus, Icefields Parkway
Surface to Air, Arapiles
Peacemaker, Cochise Stronghold
Angel's Crest, Squamish
Ames Ice Hose, Telluride
Extreme Youth, Booroomba
Aphelion, Glasshouse Mountains
Eurydice, Arapiles
Ozymandias, Mt Buffalo
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gblauer
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Jan 31, 2011, 2:35 PM
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enigma wrote: So how was that? I've never been to El Potrero Chico, How long did it take you? How's the rock? Very Impressive. Is that rated 5.11 or mixed moves? Excellent Accomplishment. Pictures?
It took us about 12 hours door-to-door. It's about an hour approach to get to the base of the climb. We climbed relentlessly for hours, then you have to rappel the same 23 pitches. It's a really long day. The day we climbed it was 95 degrees with full sun.
It's mostly 10's, but the 21st pitch is a 12a, a "stinger" at the end of a long climb.
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potreroed
Jan 31, 2011, 4:19 PM
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Another vote for Fiddler On the Roof and Levitation 29 at Red Rocks.
Rosy Crucifixion and Over the Hill in Eldorado Canyon.
Multi-pitch is why I live in the Potrero Chico. Some favorites:
Timewave Zero 23 pitches
Voodoo Trance 10 pitches
Treasure of the Sierra Madre 7 pitches
Pancho Villa Rides Again 5 pitches
Will the Wolf Survive 4 pitches
Strokin' the Bishop 3 pitches
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sungam
Jan 31, 2011, 4:52 PM
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Unpossible to decide. Especially since most of the routes I remember fondly are because of the goings-on on the route, not the actual route.
Like Agag's Groove on Bouchaille Etive Mhor, for some reason I always have a blast on that route. It's not a world class route, but I am always smiling on it.
I also like climbing towers. Something about climbing something free-standing just makes it rad.
I had such a blast on Bear's Reach with Lazlo that I think of the route highly, though I've heard people talk about it a little critically.
Funny how the ambiance of the day/mood of the party can make shitty awkward grovelling feel like cool and funky moves, or sketchy run out stuff exciting or boring easy section relaxing and chilled.
Edit to add some more fun routes:
Finger's Ridge, Corrie an T'Schneacda, Caingorms.
Pidgeon Spire, Bugaboos
Haha, and a special mention for Burnsy of River Tower. One of the more hilarious excuses for climbing I've been involved in. HaHa!
(This post was edited by sungam on Jan 31, 2011, 5:00 PM)
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pyrosis
Jan 31, 2011, 4:59 PM
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I vote for Regular NW Face of Half Dome.
I hope one day to be skilled enough to get the whole thing free.
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