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enigma
Feb 2, 2011, 7:43 AM
Post #51 of 86
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guangzhou wrote: Serenity to Sons of yesterday- Yosemite The Prow on Cathedral New Hampshire The Line at Lover's Leap Corn Flake Crack, Looking Glass Lurking Fear- Yosemite. One day, I will commit to trying a free ascent of this route Humanity Tonsai (Thailand) Tower I Spikul Indonesia Guide's Route Grand Tetons Loved them all
Nice Mix, Now when climbers choose multi-pitch routes they can have a reference even in Indonesia and Thailand.
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enigma
Feb 2, 2011, 7:46 AM
Post #52 of 86
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erisspirit wrote: Sadly I don't have a lot of diversity yet in what multi pitch climbs I have done. I hope to fix this in the future of the climbs I have done so far, I would say my favorites were either Open Book or Whodunit in tahquitz.
You will! Now you have lists to help you pick climbers favorites
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jmeizis
Feb 2, 2011, 3:33 PM
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I don't know if I can say The Black is my favorite place. I've only been able to get out there once. It's just a really intense place with a lot of history and it's kind of ominous.
Greg, it's one of those climbs where it doesn't have to be fun to be fun. Without other people there it would have just been some chossy nightmare but luckily we all could joke and whine about it together which made it a fun climb. Sort of like Epinephrine for you I think.
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kachoong
Feb 2, 2011, 4:05 PM
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Sometimes it's the absolute fear and nightmare-giving intensity that leaves such an impression that it becomes a favorite climb. For me, some multipitch ice adventures and a couple rock routes left me with an admiration of the overall atmosphere of the route. Some routes in perfect conditions are completely different to the exact same route in adverse conditions and can make both experiences favorites... given both scenarios it's the adverse conditions, for me, that almost always become more memorable.
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sungam
Feb 2, 2011, 4:18 PM
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Hey, if we're switching from "favourite" to "memorable" then I have some additions.
Drifting even further from the topic - one of my favourite days climbing was at a fairly shite. But the people I was with, and the shear amount of laughter made it a great time. I also think I took more falls that day then any other day climbing. Generally from someone shouting sage advice along the lines of "BE STRONG LIKE BEARRRR" or "The key to that section is to not have eaten so much last week".
No other time have I been laughing too hard to shout "fall!".
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kachoong
Feb 2, 2011, 4:27 PM
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sungam wrote: Hey, if we're switching from "favourite" to "memorable" then I have some additions.
To me, most of the time, they are the same thing. Given a little time, the most memorable bad scenarios become my favorites mainly because of the experience and lessons I learned. Without them I wouldn't be the climber I am today.
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Gmburns2000
Feb 2, 2011, 6:03 PM
Post #57 of 86
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jmeizis wrote: I don't know if I can say The Black is my favorite place. I've only been able to get out there once. It's just a really intense place with a lot of history and it's kind of ominous. Greg, it's one of those climbs where it doesn't have to be fun to be fun. Without other people there it would have just been some chossy nightmare but luckily we all could joke and whine about it together which made it a fun climb. Sort of like Epinephrine for you I think.
yeah, you're right about the fun of it: wyrick-merrill was definitely fun for the reasons noted. I still laugh at the "give me about five more feet of slack...I have to jump!" quote.
Epi...still shakes my boots.
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mattm
Feb 2, 2011, 7:07 PM
Post #58 of 86
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All of these have left me with that "shit eating grin" for HOURS after I was done.
Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall - Squamish
Borderline - Squamish
Local Boys Do Good - Squam
Dream Symphony - Squam
Royal Arches to Crest Jewel (CTC in 10hrs)- Yos
Infinite Bliss - WA
Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms - Index, WA
Stanley-Burgner Route - Prusik Peak, WA
Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner - The Leap
Iron Way (I think) - Mt Lemmon
Yellow Spur - Eldo
Epinephrine - Red Rocks
Yellow Brick Road - Red Rocks
Directississima - Gunks
Recompense with the Beast Var.- Cathedral
Book of Solemnity - Cathedral
Whitney-Gilman - Cannon
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 2, 2011, 7:44 PM
Post #59 of 86
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mattm wrote: All of these have left me with that "shit eating grin" for HOURS after I was done. Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall - Squamish We did Apron Strings to Grand Wall, but didn't finish the Grand for a couple different reasons. Cruel shoes looks awesome too. Borderline - Squamish Looks like I have something new on my ticklist for next time. Local Boys Do Good - Squam Agreed Dream Symphony - Squam #2 on my new ticklist Royal Arches to Crest Jewel (CTC in 10hrs)- Yos I need to get back to Yosemite. So much to do. Infinite Bliss - WA Never been to WA Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms - Index, WA Ditto Stanley-Burgner Route - Prusik Peak, WA Ditto Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner - The Leap Never been to the Leap Iron Way (I think) - Mt Lemmon Never been to Arizona Yellow Spur - Eldo I looked at this on my one and only trip there. Might have to put it on my list in my other thread. Epinephrine - Red Rocks Agreed. The route left me smiling. The descent left me cursing like a sailor. Yellow Brick Road - Red Rocks Haven't done. Directississima - Gunks One of my favorite pitches anywhere. Wish it were longer. Last time I was on it I tried to link it to the last pitch of Enduro man. Hung on it but thought it might go with some work. Recompense with the Beast Var.- Cathedral Agreed. One of the best 5.9's in the Northeast. Book of Solemnity - Cathedral Very cool route. Also too short. Whitney-Gilman - Cannon 5.7 Adventure climbing at it's best.
Nice list.
Josh
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kachoong
Feb 2, 2011, 7:47 PM
Post #60 of 86
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michaelj2 wrote: My favorite climbs all mean something different to me, depending on where it was during my climbing evolution, who I was with, or if I wasn't with anyone. Some personal highlights: Positive Vibes, The Hulk Astroman, The Valley Wall of the Worlds, Cal Dome Beckey-Chouinard, The Bugs Nutcracker, The Valley (<20 mins) Freeway, Squamish The Vampire, Tahquitz Slipstream, Icefields Parkway Upper Weeping Wall, Icefields Parkway Full Exum, The Tetons (<11 hrs c2c, onsight)
I have always always always wanted to climb Slipstream. That's one hell of a line!
I would also love to climb the Hulk... if I ever get to CA. It's an impressive chunk of rock.
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 2, 2011, 8:07 PM
Post #61 of 86
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blueeyedclimber wrote: mattm wrote: All of these have left me with that "shit eating grin" for HOURS after I was done. Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall - Squamish We did Apron Strings to Grand Wall, but didn't finish the Grand for a couple different reasons. Cruel shoes looks awesome too. Borderline - Squamish Looks like I have something new on my ticklist for next time. Local Boys Do Good - Squam Agreed Dream Symphony - Squam #2 on my new ticklist Royal Arches to Crest Jewel (CTC in 10hrs)- Yos I need to get back to Yosemite. So much to do. Infinite Bliss - WA Never been to WA Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms - Index, WA Ditto Stanley-Burgner Route - Prusik Peak, WA Ditto Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner - The Leap Never been to the Leap Iron Way (I think) - Mt Lemmon Never been to Arizona Yellow Spur - Eldo I looked at this on my one and only trip there. Might have to put it on my list in my other thread. Epinephrine - Red Rocks Agreed. The route left me smiling. The descent left me cursing like a sailor. Yellow Brick Road - Red Rocks Haven't done. Directississima - Gunks One of my favorite pitches anywhere. Wish it were longer. Last time I was on it I tried to link it to the last pitch of Enduro man. Hung on it but thought it might go with some work. Recompense with the Beast Var.- Cathedral Agreed. One of the best 5.9's in the Northeast. Book of Solemnity - Cathedral Very cool route. Also too short. Whitney-Gilman - Cannon 5.7 Adventure climbing at it's best.Nice list. Josh
Actually it was the Naked Edge that I look at in Eldo, but Yellow Spur looks awesome too.
A couple more additions to my list:
Rosy Crucifixion to Alice in Bucketland in Eldo
Bastille Crack in Eldo
Josh
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cracklover
Feb 2, 2011, 8:25 PM
Post #62 of 86
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blueeyedclimber wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: mattm wrote: All of these have left me with that "shit eating grin" for HOURS after I was done. Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall - Squamish We did Apron Strings to Grand Wall, but didn't finish the Grand for a couple different reasons. Cruel shoes looks awesome too. Borderline - Squamish Looks like I have something new on my ticklist for next time. Local Boys Do Good - Squam Agreed Dream Symphony - Squam #2 on my new ticklist Royal Arches to Crest Jewel (CTC in 10hrs)- Yos I need to get back to Yosemite. So much to do. Infinite Bliss - WA Never been to WA Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms - Index, WA Ditto Stanley-Burgner Route - Prusik Peak, WA Ditto Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner - The Leap Never been to the Leap Iron Way (I think) - Mt Lemmon Never been to Arizona Yellow Spur - Eldo I looked at this on my one and only trip there. Might have to put it on my list in my other thread. Epinephrine - Red Rocks Agreed. The route left me smiling. The descent left me cursing like a sailor. Yellow Brick Road - Red Rocks Haven't done. Directississima - Gunks One of my favorite pitches anywhere. Wish it were longer. Last time I was on it I tried to link it to the last pitch of Enduro man. Hung on it but thought it might go with some work. Recompense with the Beast Var.- Cathedral Agreed. One of the best 5.9's in the Northeast. Book of Solemnity - Cathedral Very cool route. Also too short. Whitney-Gilman - Cannon 5.7 Adventure climbing at it's best.Nice list. Josh Actually it was the Naked Edge that I look at in Eldo, but Yellow Spur looks awesome too. A couple more additions to my list: Rosy Crucifixion to Alice in Bucketland in Eldo Bastille Crack in Eldo Josh
Get strong and I'll do Naked Edge with you next time you come visit.
GO
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 2, 2011, 8:28 PM
Post #63 of 86
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cracklover wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: mattm wrote: All of these have left me with that "shit eating grin" for HOURS after I was done. Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall - Squamish We did Apron Strings to Grand Wall, but didn't finish the Grand for a couple different reasons. Cruel shoes looks awesome too. Borderline - Squamish Looks like I have something new on my ticklist for next time. Local Boys Do Good - Squam Agreed Dream Symphony - Squam #2 on my new ticklist Royal Arches to Crest Jewel (CTC in 10hrs)- Yos I need to get back to Yosemite. So much to do. Infinite Bliss - WA Never been to WA Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms - Index, WA Ditto Stanley-Burgner Route - Prusik Peak, WA Ditto Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner - The Leap Never been to the Leap Iron Way (I think) - Mt Lemmon Never been to Arizona Yellow Spur - Eldo I looked at this on my one and only trip there. Might have to put it on my list in my other thread. Epinephrine - Red Rocks Agreed. The route left me smiling. The descent left me cursing like a sailor. Yellow Brick Road - Red Rocks Haven't done. Directississima - Gunks One of my favorite pitches anywhere. Wish it were longer. Last time I was on it I tried to link it to the last pitch of Enduro man. Hung on it but thought it might go with some work. Recompense with the Beast Var.- Cathedral Agreed. One of the best 5.9's in the Northeast. Book of Solemnity - Cathedral Very cool route. Also too short. Whitney-Gilman - Cannon 5.7 Adventure climbing at it's best.Nice list. Josh Actually it was the Naked Edge that I look at in Eldo, but Yellow Spur looks awesome too. A couple more additions to my list: Rosy Crucifixion to Alice in Bucketland in Eldo Bastille Crack in Eldo Josh and I'll do Naked Edge with you next time you come visit. GO
What are you implying? 
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mattm
Feb 2, 2011, 9:11 PM
Post #64 of 86
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blueeyedclimber wrote: mattm wrote: All of these have left me with that "shit eating grin" for HOURS after I was done. Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall - Squamish We did Apron Strings to Grand Wall, but didn't finish the Grand for a couple different reasons. Cruel shoes looks awesome too. Borderline - Squamish Looks like I have something new on my ticklist for next time. Local Boys Do Good - Squam Agreed Dream Symphony - Squam #2 on my new ticklist Royal Arches to Crest Jewel (CTC in 10hrs)- Yos I need to get back to Yosemite. So much to do. Infinite Bliss - WA Never been to WA Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms - Index, WA Ditto Stanley-Burgner Route - Prusik Peak, WA Ditto Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner - The Leap Never been to the Leap Iron Way (I think) - Mt Lemmon Never been to Arizona Yellow Spur - Eldo I looked at this on my one and only trip there. Might have to put it on my list in my other thread. Epinephrine - Red Rocks Agreed. The route left me smiling. The descent left me cursing like a sailor. Yellow Brick Road - Red Rocks Haven't done. Directississima - Gunks One of my favorite pitches anywhere. Wish it were longer. Last time I was on it I tried to link it to the last pitch of Enduro man. Hung on it but thought it might go with some work. Recompense with the Beast Var.- Cathedral Agreed. One of the best 5.9's in the Northeast. Book of Solemnity - Cathedral Very cool route. Also too short. Whitney-Gilman - Cannon 5.7 Adventure climbing at it's best.Nice list. Josh
Yep, I grew up in the East and everything listed is classic but short. That's the "draw" of the West.
I could list more from Squamish but I didn't want to get too "one sided"
The weather window is tough sometimes but I truly think Squamish is THE BEST Trad area in NA followed by Red Rocks.
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 2, 2011, 9:57 PM
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mattm wrote: Yep, I grew up in the East and everything listed is classic but short. That's the "draw" of the West. I could list more from Squamish but I didn't want to get too "one sided" The weather window is tough sometimes but I truly think Squamish is THE BEST Trad area in NA followed by Red Rocks.
Once again, AGREED! 
Josh
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cracklover
Feb 2, 2011, 10:56 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: cracklover wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: mattm wrote: All of these have left me with that "shit eating grin" for HOURS after I was done. Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall - Squamish We did Apron Strings to Grand Wall, but didn't finish the Grand for a couple different reasons. Cruel shoes looks awesome too. Borderline - Squamish Looks like I have something new on my ticklist for next time. Local Boys Do Good - Squam Agreed Dream Symphony - Squam #2 on my new ticklist Royal Arches to Crest Jewel (CTC in 10hrs)- Yos I need to get back to Yosemite. So much to do. Infinite Bliss - WA Never been to WA Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms - Index, WA Ditto Stanley-Burgner Route - Prusik Peak, WA Ditto Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner - The Leap Never been to the Leap Iron Way (I think) - Mt Lemmon Never been to Arizona Yellow Spur - Eldo I looked at this on my one and only trip there. Might have to put it on my list in my other thread. Epinephrine - Red Rocks Agreed. The route left me smiling. The descent left me cursing like a sailor. Yellow Brick Road - Red Rocks Haven't done. Directississima - Gunks One of my favorite pitches anywhere. Wish it were longer. Last time I was on it I tried to link it to the last pitch of Enduro man. Hung on it but thought it might go with some work. Recompense with the Beast Var.- Cathedral Agreed. One of the best 5.9's in the Northeast. Book of Solemnity - Cathedral Very cool route. Also too short. Whitney-Gilman - Cannon 5.7 Adventure climbing at it's best.Nice list. Josh Actually it was the Naked Edge that I look at in Eldo, but Yellow Spur looks awesome too. A couple more additions to my list: Rosy Crucifixion to Alice in Bucketland in Eldo Bastille Crack in Eldo Josh and I'll do Naked Edge with you next time you come visit. GO What are you implying?
LOL. Maybe I'm just projecting. I'm sure as hell not strong enough to go do it right now. But if I knew you were coming, I'd get there.
Not to make too big a deal of it, but I've been on 5.12 routes that were easier.
GO
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enigma
Feb 3, 2011, 6:44 AM
Post #67 of 86
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mattm wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: mattm wrote: All of these have left me with that "shit eating grin" for HOURS after I was done. Cruel Shoes to Grand Wall - Squamish We did Apron Strings to Grand Wall, but didn't finish the Grand for a couple different reasons. Cruel shoes looks awesome too. Borderline - Squamish Looks like I have something new on my ticklist for next time. Local Boys Do Good - Squam Agreed Dream Symphony - Squam #2 on my new ticklist Royal Arches to Crest Jewel (CTC in 10hrs)- Yos I need to get back to Yosemite. So much to do. Infinite Bliss - WA Never been to WA Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms - Index, WA Ditto Stanley-Burgner Route - Prusik Peak, WA Ditto Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner - The Leap Never been to the Leap Iron Way (I think) - Mt Lemmon Never been to Arizona Yellow Spur - Eldo I looked at this on my one and only trip there. Might have to put it on my list in my other thread. Epinephrine - Red Rocks Agreed. The route left me smiling. The descent left me cursing like a sailor. Yellow Brick Road - Red Rocks Haven't done. Directississima - Gunks One of my favorite pitches anywhere. Wish it were longer. Last time I was on it I tried to link it to the last pitch of Enduro man. Hung on it but thought it might go with some work. Recompense with the Beast Var.- Cathedral Agreed. One of the best 5.9's in the Northeast. Book of Solemnity - Cathedral Very cool route. Also too short. Whitney-Gilman - Cannon 5.7 Adventure climbing at it's best.Nice list. Josh Yep, I grew up in the East and everything listed is classic but short. That's the "draw" of the West. I could list more from Squamish but I didn't want to get too "one sided" The weather window is tough sometimes but I truly think Squamish is THE BEST Trad area in NA followed by Red Rocks.
There's also alot of great multi-pitch climbs in Lovers Leap, 5.7-5.11. The rock is very unusual almost like there are patterns on it.
We also forgot Smith Rocks , Monkey Face anyone?
Mt Lemmon has so much as well, I only been there once but theres so much to climb. With different elevations.
Yes with Yosemite and Tuolumne in the West you can climb forever .
The Gunks will always be my first outside climbing and there is a nice feel to the area around New Paltz.
.
Thanks for sharing !!
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enigma
Feb 3, 2011, 9:45 AM
Post #68 of 86
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sungam wrote: Unpossible to decide. Especially since most of the routes I remember fondly are because of the goings-on on the route, not the actual route. Like Agag's Groove on Bouchaille Etive Mhor, for some reason I always have a blast on that route. It's not a world class route, but I am always smiling on it. I also like climbing towers. Something about climbing something free-standing just makes it rad. I had such a blast on Bear's Reach with Lazlo that I think of the route highly, though I've heard people talk about it a little critically. Funny how the ambiance of the day/mood of the party can make shitty awkward grovelling feel like cool and funky moves, or sketchy run out stuff exciting or boring easy section relaxing and chilled. Edit to add some more fun routes: Finger's Ridge, Corrie an T'Schneacda, Caingorms. Pidgeon Spire, Bugaboos Haha, and a special mention for Burnsy of River Tower. One of the more hilarious excuses for climbing I've been involved in. HaHa!
Wow Scotland -Just thinking is it the air there that allows a climber to fall 1000 ft and land on his feet!!JK
I am interested in this bugaboos,
let me tell you I climbed with this 15yr old teen boy that could lead amazingly he put his first piece 150ft from the ground,on rock on and was down to climb the entire grand wall and lead it himself through split and sword. Unbelievable climbed since 4,
Anyway he said the bugaboos was great routes long approaches, What type of rock? is it desolate?
Any photos?
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sungam
Feb 3, 2011, 11:49 AM
Post #69 of 86
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Scotland has some rad routes but the weather can be an issue and nothing is really roadside.
The bugs are rad, I don't have any photos cuz I lost my camera, though.
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sungam
Feb 3, 2011, 4:35 PM
Post #71 of 86
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macherry wrote: sungam wrote: Scotland has some rad routes but the weather can be an issue and nothing is really roadside. The bugs are rad, I don't have any photos cuz I lost my camera, though. lost it!!! you forgot it at the hut!!!!   Way to out me Marge.
Yeah, I left it at the hut. Busted.
You'd have thought someone would hand it in, though, no?
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donald949
Feb 3, 2011, 6:06 PM
Post #72 of 86
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sungam wrote: macherry wrote: sungam wrote: Scotland has some rad routes but the weather can be an issue and nothing is really roadside. The bugs are rad, I don't have any photos cuz I lost my camera, though. lost it!!! you forgot it at the hut!!!! Way to out me Marge. Yeah, I left it at the hut. Busted. You'd have thought someone would hand it in, though, no?
But fer me.
With out a doubt my favorite multi pitch.
Tree Route, 5.6, Dome Rock. First 3 pitches, easy breazy fingerish crack. P4 up a short slab, 1 bolt to a small roof. Try to wiggle a stopper in. Pull the easy 5.6, but don't slip and your home free.
Great day.
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macherry
Feb 4, 2011, 1:40 AM
Post #73 of 86
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sungam wrote: macherry wrote: sungam wrote: Scotland has some rad routes but the weather can be an issue and nothing is really roadside. The bugs are rad, I don't have any photos cuz I lost my camera, though. lost it!!! you forgot it at the hut!!!! Way to out me Marge. Yeah, I left it at the hut. Busted. You'd have thought someone would hand it in, though, no?
bad form not to turn it in!!
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kachoong
Feb 4, 2011, 1:41 AM
Post #74 of 86
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macherry wrote: sungam wrote: macherry wrote: sungam wrote: Scotland has some rad routes but the weather can be an issue and nothing is really roadside. The bugs are rad, I don't have any photos cuz I lost my camera, though. lost it!!! you forgot it at the hut!!!! Way to out me Marge. Yeah, I left it at the hut. Busted. You'd have thought someone would hand it in, though, no? bad form not to turn it in!!
How could you find an owner of a camera where all the pics are of sheep rear ends?
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sungam
Feb 4, 2011, 10:07 AM
Post #75 of 86
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kachoong wrote: macherry wrote: sungam wrote: macherry wrote: sungam wrote: Scotland has some rad routes but the weather can be an issue and nothing is really roadside. The bugs are rad, I don't have any photos cuz I lost my camera, though. lost it!!! you forgot it at the hut!!!! Way to out me Marge. Yeah, I left it at the hut. Busted. You'd have thought someone would hand it in, though, no? bad form not to turn it in!! How could you find an owner of a camera where all the pics are of sheep rear ends?
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