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michael1245


Feb 18, 2011, 11:03 AM
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What is this?
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uqf2Y5oeiKg

What is this device he's using to "self-belay"?

Is it safe? For ice, and rock?

Never seen this before.


moose_droppings


Feb 18, 2011, 12:16 PM
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michael1245 wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uqf2Y5oeiKg

What is this device he's using to "self-belay"?

Is it safe? For ice, and rock?

Never seen this before.

I couldn't see it well enough to tell for sure. My guess would be from the way he continues to pull the slack through that it might be a Petzl Basic. As far as I know, no device is totally safe and in conjunction with icy ropes I'd use some form of backup.


Edit;
After enlarging the video I changed it to a Basic.



(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Feb 18, 2011, 12:39 PM)


rocknice2


Feb 18, 2011, 12:16 PM
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michael1245 wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uqf2Y5oeiKg
What is this device he's using to "self-belay"?

Is it safe? For ice, and rock?

Never seen this before.

An ascender


michael1245


Feb 18, 2011, 12:32 PM
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rocknice2 wrote:
An ascender

Yep! That's it.

Came across a Black Diamond nForce Ascender, says it "offers maximum grip on icy or muddy ropes".

Interesting. Never seen one in use other than this video.


jnrose5


Feb 18, 2011, 4:02 PM
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We saw a fellow out at Stairway last week doing the exact same thing. Except he didn't have the totally sweet electric guitar of Evanescence playing in the background.


the_climber


Feb 23, 2011, 7:14 AM
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moose_droppings wrote:
michael1245 wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uqf2Y5oeiKg

What is this device he's using to "self-belay"?

Is it safe? For ice, and rock?

Never seen this before.


Edit;
After enlarging the video I changed it to a Basic.

It looks to be a Petzl Expedition Ascender, definitely a handled ascender.
OK view of it at about 3:30-3:35


dan2see


Feb 23, 2011, 7:29 AM
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I think he uses a Munter to rappel, and then switches to his belay gadget to go up. This solves the problem of trying to use a single device for both purposes.

Some of you think he should have added a back-up. But I know some guys who would do this type of route with nothing at all -- just points and picks.

Anyway I think it was a great idea to simply plant his video somewhere, and just do it.

Here's the song on Youtube: Evanescence - Wake me up inside . Like that dual dichotomy.


(This post was edited by dan2see on Feb 23, 2011, 7:44 AM)


michael1245


Feb 23, 2011, 7:35 AM
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looks pretty safe and effective. I was a bit suprised...I've always wondered "can" I climb alone? "will" I ever climb alone is a different story all together...


dan2see


Feb 23, 2011, 7:46 AM
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Yeah well there's old climbers, and bold climbers, but there's no old bold climbers. Wink

Though I seem to get bolder every year ... Unsure


Partner xtrmecat


Feb 23, 2011, 7:57 AM
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Michael1245, I climb alone a lot. This is a very bad example of how it's done. No biner in the ascender end, no backup, and crappy choice of device. He rapped on an atc.

Not safe, only guaranteed to work if you don't fall.

Burly Bob


michael1245


Feb 23, 2011, 8:12 AM
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xtrmecat wrote:
Michael1245, I climb alone a lot. This is a very bad example of how it's done. No biner in the ascender end, no backup, and crappy choice of device. He rapped on an atc.

Not safe, only guaranteed to work if you don't fall.

Burly Bob

what's your take on how to do it properly? Say you're on the same route (as in the video).


Partner xtrmecat


Feb 23, 2011, 8:31 AM
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If soloing, using a device intended to solo would be a good start. As far as technique goes, a backup is prudent, no, make that mandatory.

Burly Bob


vegastradguy


Feb 23, 2011, 8:36 AM
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michael1245 wrote:
xtrmecat wrote:
Michael1245, I climb alone a lot. This is a very bad example of how it's done. No biner in the ascender end, no backup, and crappy choice of device. He rapped on an atc.

Not safe, only guaranteed to work if you don't fall.

Burly Bob

what's your take on how to do it properly? Say you're on the same route (as in the video).

there's loads of better ways to do it than using a toothed, handled ascender- thats literally about the worst possible way to do it.

at the simplest, if you can stop to pull slack through, a grigri works. or a clove hitch.

or a pair of mini-traxions as they will slide up the rope on their own. (rope must be weighted).

or a pair of ushbas (rope also must be weighted)- although i dont know how they handle on icy ropes.

the cinch is also a nice device- it wants to run on the rope. i use this with a croll as my choice.

a backup is usually pretty key- especially since you're alone. there are different ways to accomplish this- fixing the line @ the midpoint so you can back up with a second rope (which might be a good idea with ice axes!) and device or knots.


anykineclimb


Feb 25, 2011, 9:59 AM
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vegastradguy wrote:
there's loads of better ways to do it than using a toothed, handled ascender- thats literally about the worst possible way to do it.

Yup. BAD things can happen with those teeth

Gibbs-type ascenders also work well


puravida9539


Jul 3, 2011, 6:53 AM
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vegastradguy wrote:
michael1245 wrote:
xtrmecat wrote:
Michael1245, I climb alone a lot. This is a very bad example of how it's done. No biner in the ascender end, no backup, and crappy choice of device. He rapped on an atc.

Not safe, only guaranteed to work if you don't fall.

Burly Bob


what's your take on how to do it properly? Say you're on the same route (as in the video).

there's loads of better ways to do it than using a toothed, handled ascender- thats literally about the worst possible way to do it.

at the simplest, if you can stop to pull slack through, a grigri works. or a clove hitch.

or a pair of mini-traxions as they will slide up the rope on their own. (rope must be weighted).

or a pair of ushbas (rope also must be weighted)- although i dont know how they handle on icy ropes.

the cinch is also a nice device- it wants to run on the rope. i use this with a croll as my choice.

a backup is usually pretty key- especially since you're alone. there are different ways to accomplish this- fixing the line @ the midpoint so you can back up with a second rope (which might be a good idea with ice axes!) and device or knots.

Healyje has an article that is all about solo rope climbing and the devices that can be used for it. Mal Daly tells people not to use the Cinch, and most seem to take that advice pretty seriously.

I have used a grigri and for top roping it is nice. For leading it is less convenient, as the rope does not self feed very well. The Edelrid Eddy is better than the grigri for self belaying, and probably just better than the grigri in general. However, it is also significantly more expensive. Don't use anything with teeth, and always use a backup, even if it is just tying some figure 8's in the rope below you on the way up.


Taylorp.


Jul 3, 2011, 7:58 AM
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I use the petzl basic for tr soloing frequently. On Petzl's website it says the basic can be used for self belay, while it does not say that for the mini traxion


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