|
michael1245
Feb 18, 2011, 7:03 PM
Post #1 of 16
(8857 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 23, 2010
Posts: 247
|
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uqf2Y5oeiKg
What is this device he's using to "self-belay"?
Is it safe? For ice, and rock?
Never seen this before.
|
|
|
|
|
moose_droppings
Feb 18, 2011, 8:16 PM
Post #2 of 16
(8796 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371
|
I couldn't see it well enough to tell for sure. My guess would be from the way he continues to pull the slack through that it might be a Petzl Basic. As far as I know, no device is totally safe and in conjunction with icy ropes I'd use some form of backup.
Edit;
After enlarging the video I changed it to a Basic.
(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Feb 18, 2011, 8:39 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
rocknice2
Feb 18, 2011, 8:16 PM
Post #3 of 16
(8796 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2006
Posts: 1221
|
An ascender
|
|
|
|
|
michael1245
Feb 18, 2011, 8:32 PM
Post #4 of 16
(8775 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 23, 2010
Posts: 247
|
rocknice2 wrote: An ascender
Yep! That's it.
Came across a Black Diamond nForce Ascender, says it "offers maximum grip on icy or muddy ropes".
Interesting. Never seen one in use other than this video.
|
|
|
|
|
jnrose5
Feb 19, 2011, 12:02 AM
Post #5 of 16
(8717 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2004
Posts: 11
|
We saw a fellow out at Stairway last week doing the exact same thing. Except he didn't have the totally sweet electric guitar of Evanescence playing in the background.
|
|
|
|
|
dan2see
Feb 23, 2011, 3:29 PM
Post #7 of 16
(8561 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2006
Posts: 1497
|
I think he uses a Munter to rappel, and then switches to his belay gadget to go up. This solves the problem of trying to use a single device for both purposes.
Some of you think he should have added a back-up. But I know some guys who would do this type of route with nothing at all -- just points and picks.
Anyway I think it was a great idea to simply plant his video somewhere, and just do it.
Here's the song on Youtube: Evanescence - Wake me up inside . Like that dual dichotomy.
(This post was edited by dan2see on Feb 23, 2011, 3:44 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
michael1245
Feb 23, 2011, 3:35 PM
Post #8 of 16
(8550 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 23, 2010
Posts: 247
|
looks pretty safe and effective. I was a bit suprised...I've always wondered "can" I climb alone? "will" I ever climb alone is a different story all together...
|
|
|
|
|
dan2see
Feb 23, 2011, 3:46 PM
Post #9 of 16
(8539 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2006
Posts: 1497
|
Yeah well there's old climbers, and bold climbers, but there's no old bold climbers. 
Though I seem to get bolder every year ... 
|
|
|
|
|
xtrmecat
Feb 23, 2011, 3:57 PM
Post #10 of 16
(8521 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 548
|
Michael1245, I climb alone a lot. This is a very bad example of how it's done. No biner in the ascender end, no backup, and crappy choice of device. He rapped on an atc.
Not safe, only guaranteed to work if you don't fall.
Burly Bob
|
|
|
|
|
michael1245
Feb 23, 2011, 4:12 PM
Post #11 of 16
(8506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 23, 2010
Posts: 247
|
xtrmecat wrote: Michael1245, I climb alone a lot. This is a very bad example of how it's done. No biner in the ascender end, no backup, and crappy choice of device. He rapped on an atc. Not safe, only guaranteed to work if you don't fall. Burly Bob
what's your take on how to do it properly? Say you're on the same route (as in the video).
|
|
|
|
|
xtrmecat
Feb 23, 2011, 4:31 PM
Post #12 of 16
(8491 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 548
|
If soloing, using a device intended to solo would be a good start. As far as technique goes, a backup is prudent, no, make that mandatory.
Burly Bob
|
|
|
|
|
vegastradguy
Feb 23, 2011, 4:36 PM
Post #13 of 16
(8487 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
michael1245 wrote: xtrmecat wrote: Michael1245, I climb alone a lot. This is a very bad example of how it's done. No biner in the ascender end, no backup, and crappy choice of device. He rapped on an atc. Not safe, only guaranteed to work if you don't fall. Burly Bob what's your take on how to do it properly? Say you're on the same route (as in the video).
there's loads of better ways to do it than using a toothed, handled ascender- thats literally about the worst possible way to do it.
at the simplest, if you can stop to pull slack through, a grigri works. or a clove hitch.
or a pair of mini-traxions as they will slide up the rope on their own. (rope must be weighted).
or a pair of ushbas (rope also must be weighted)- although i dont know how they handle on icy ropes.
the cinch is also a nice device- it wants to run on the rope. i use this with a croll as my choice.
a backup is usually pretty key- especially since you're alone. there are different ways to accomplish this- fixing the line @ the midpoint so you can back up with a second rope (which might be a good idea with ice axes!) and device or knots.
|
|
|
|
|
anykineclimb
Feb 25, 2011, 5:59 PM
Post #14 of 16
(8398 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
|
vegastradguy wrote: there's loads of better ways to do it than using a toothed, handled ascender- thats literally about the worst possible way to do it.
Yup. BAD things can happen with those teeth
Gibbs-type ascenders also work well
|
|
|
|
|
puravida9539
Jul 3, 2011, 1:53 PM
Post #15 of 16
(7754 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 6, 2011
Posts: 52
|
vegastradguy wrote: michael1245 wrote: xtrmecat wrote: Michael1245, I climb alone a lot. This is a very bad example of how it's done. No biner in the ascender end, no backup, and crappy choice of device. He rapped on an atc. Not safe, only guaranteed to work if you don't fall. Burly Bob what's your take on how to do it properly? Say you're on the same route (as in the video). there's loads of better ways to do it than using a toothed, handled ascender- thats literally about the worst possible way to do it. at the simplest, if you can stop to pull slack through, a grigri works. or a clove hitch. or a pair of mini-traxions as they will slide up the rope on their own. (rope must be weighted). or a pair of ushbas (rope also must be weighted)- although i dont know how they handle on icy ropes. the cinch is also a nice device- it wants to run on the rope. i use this with a croll as my choice. a backup is usually pretty key- especially since you're alone. there are different ways to accomplish this- fixing the line @ the midpoint so you can back up with a second rope (which might be a good idea with ice axes!) and device or knots.
Healyje has an article that is all about solo rope climbing and the devices that can be used for it. Mal Daly tells people not to use the Cinch, and most seem to take that advice pretty seriously.
I have used a grigri and for top roping it is nice. For leading it is less convenient, as the rope does not self feed very well. The Edelrid Eddy is better than the grigri for self belaying, and probably just better than the grigri in general. However, it is also significantly more expensive. Don't use anything with teeth, and always use a backup, even if it is just tying some figure 8's in the rope below you on the way up.
|
|
|
|
|
Taylorp.
Jul 3, 2011, 2:58 PM
Post #16 of 16
(7738 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2010
Posts: 8
|
I use the petzl basic for tr soloing frequently. On Petzl's website it says the basic can be used for self belay, while it does not say that for the mini traxion
|
|
|
|
|
|
