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kaneftbc
Apr 29, 2011, 2:43 PM
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I am looking for suggestions about leading and following pendulums when aid climbing. What's the simplest way to do it?
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altelis
Apr 29, 2011, 2:47 PM
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kaneftbc wrote: I am looking for suggestions about leading and following pendulums when aid climbing. What's the simplest way to do it?
Probably makes more sense to have this in Big Wall/Aid forum...
SIMPLEST way? Unclip rope from piece. Done.
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USnavy
Apr 29, 2011, 9:17 PM
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rocknice2
May 3, 2011, 2:01 AM
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kaneftbc wrote: I am looking for suggestions about leading and following pendulums when aid climbing. What's the simplest way to do it?
Leave a bail biner at the fulcrum. You can do it without leaving a biner but you need to feed through a loop of rope and depending how big the swing is, it can be a real PITA.
If you have 2 ropes or a tag line the second can be pulled to the leader. No need to swing
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charlie.elverson
May 3, 2011, 3:24 AM
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That's pretty much what Tobin Sorenson did on Mt. Watkins.
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USnavy
May 3, 2011, 3:51 AM
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rocknice2 wrote: kaneftbc wrote: I am looking for suggestions about leading and following pendulums when aid climbing. What's the simplest way to do it? Leave a bail biner at the fulcrum. You can do it without leaving a biner but you need to feed through a loop of rope and depending how big the swing is, it can be a real PITA. If you have 2 ropes or a tag line the second can be pulled to the leader. No need to swing
Hua? You (the leader) just clip a quickdraw to the fixed piece, clip the rope to it and lower down and swing over. The second than feeds the rope through the piece and lowers out. There will pretty much always be a fixed sling on the piece (on the trade routes anyway) for the second to lower out off of, no leaver biner needed. If you dont have enough rope, you thread the rope through the piece and rappel yourself out, in either case it shouldent take more than 30 seconds to set up.
(This post was edited by USnavy on May 3, 2011, 3:59 AM)
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